There is a superb surf documentary called “Momentum Generation.” In it, a bunch of surfers that become the greatest surfers on the planet tell their tale of how one of the older guys that hung around with them used to make them drop in on closeout waves when conditions sucked. There is a lot to learn in surfing shitty conditions. There is a lot to learn in navigating the shitty conditions of life.
Of course, I do my best to follow multiple surf reports and use everything I have learned about surfing over the past four years to guess what break will produce the highest level of reward each day. But sometimes, despite my best efforts, conditions suck…sometimes after driving over an hour just to “score.” Nine times out of ten, even if the scene looks disappointing…I still paddle out wherever I choose to go. I usually tell myself, “Well, I’m here…I may as well make the best of it. It will still beat sleeping.” And sometimes…quite often actually…after I am out in the “shitty” conditions…things shift…conditions change. A sudden rainstorm might clean up the waves. Or the wind shifts and turns closeouts into peelers.
When these things happen, I am often the only one out enjoying the bliss. But by then, I’d already had it all to myself for at least an hour. The dipshits will tell you that knowledge is power. The impotent will tell you that understanding is the key to success. Wisdom comes from lessons resulting from HOW you ACT. Knowledge and understanding can lead you to fertile ground…yet there is no value without the ACT. Integrity Love Will Heresy
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