The Crux True Survival Stories podcast

Trapped at 23,900 Feet: Doug Scott’s Descent With Two Broken Legs | E 266

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Doug Scott broke both his legs 23,900 feet above sea level on one of the world's most technically demanding mountains. No rescue team was waiting. No helicopter stood by. For eight days, Scott and his climbing partner Chris Bonington faced a descent that should have killed them—navigating crevasses, rappelling with broken legs, surviving a five-day storm with no food and wet sleeping bags in the death zone. But the real question isn't how they survived the mountain. It's what each person on that team did at every moment when survival seemed impossible. This is the story of how humans respond when everything goes catastrophically wrong.

00:00 Welcome to The Crux
01:50 Meet the Climbers
03:24 Why the Ogre Matters
04:47 Expedition Setup and Early Injury
07:35 Final Summit Push
11:44 The Fall and Broken Legs
15:56 Night on the Ledge
19:49 Crawling Descent and Regroup
23:08 Stormbound Survival
28:26 Base Camp Abandoned
30:37 Mo Runs for Rescue
33:33 Porter Carry and Helicopter Twist
37:35 Aftermath and Lessons
40:56 Closing Thoughts

REFERENCES:
Chris Bonington, "The Ogre," American Alpine Journal, 1978

Doug Scott, "A Crawl Down The Ogre," Himalayan Journal, 1979

Doug Scott, The Ogre: Biography of a Mountain and the Dramatic Story of the First Ascent, Vertebrate Publishing, 2017

Gripped Magazine, "The Climber Who Broke Both Legs and Crawled Off a Himalayan Mountain"

Mo Anthoine, expedition audio recordings

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