Runout #154: Soul and Sandstone: Andrew Kornylak on climbing in the South

Nate Liles is a photographer, filmmaker, and development director at the American Safe Climbing Association. Today's conversation with Nate centers on the state of bolts and bolting in America today, and the tenuous landscape of route developers, local climbing organizations, land managers, and community-organized bolting events that keep the state of hardware at our crags in the best shape possible. We talk about best practices regarding how to maintain hardware, where we've inadvertently created issues, and the importance of supporting your local climbing organization—not to mention the ASCA itself—with your dollars.  But first, we talk about bad kids at the crags and reaching the threshold for when there are just too many of these rotten, no-good brats ruining our wilderness experiences. Last but never least, today's final bit comes from the talented photographer and musician Taylor Shaffer Show Notes Follow Nate Liles on Instagram Follow the ASCA on Instagram Donate to the ASCA SafeClimbing.org Orographic Creative Follow Taylor Shaffer and Taylor Shaffer Music on Instagram Taylor Shaffer on Spotify Taylor Shaffer interview

Andrew Kornylak is a photographer, filmmaker, writer, and longtime climber. His new book is Spare These Stones. We speak about the rich culture of climbing in the. south, and how this place and its people have helped inform his work and inspire his latest book. But first, we talk about a climbing influencer who is using rage-bait free solo videos to gain attention on Instagram. Today's final bit comes from Denver-based climber Logan Underwood and his punk band Moonshake. The song is Slipperscree. Show Notes Spare These Stone -- Available at The Mountaineers. Pre-order a signed copy! Andrew Kornylak homepage Follow Andrew Kornylak  Lincoln Knowles Follow Moonshake  Moonshake on Spotify Moonshake on Apple Music

Emily Weinstein is a New Yorker, radical activist, rabid Met's fan, and climber who lives on a house boat in the San Francisco Bay. Her new book is called Turn to Stone: A Memoir.  But first we catch up what's happening in our climbing worlds, from stancing out out projects to taking a stance on fear.  Our final bit is an excerpt from a standup comedy act from Ethan Newman. Show Notes  Follow Emily Weinstein Turn to Stone: A Memoir from Simon & Schuster Follow Ethan Newman The One and Only Bar in St George Become a RunOut Rope Gun! Support our podcast and increase your RunOut runtime. Bonus episodes, AMA, and more will be available to our Rope Guns. Thank you for your support! http://patreon.com/runoutpodcast

Will Moss is a trad climber originally from New York. He recently flashed Free Rider on El Capitan, becoming the first to do it in a day and only the second person ever to flash an El Cap free climb. Will's preparation to flash this route was insanely detailed, involving pouring over every video clip he could find, and person he could talk to. He even trained on simulators for the crux. Will shares the whole story of his groundbreaking ascent here. But first, what's better than having a project? Sharing a project with your partner. We talk about all the ways that working on a route together can bring you closer with your friend—until it doesn't. Today's Final Bit is courtesy of Rob Seaver and his band FOND, based out of Alexandria, Virgina. This climbing-inspired song is called Hooking Up. Show Notes Follow Will Moss on Instagram Will Moss's first appearance on The RunOut, episode 122. Will Moss Becomes First Person to Flash El Cap in a Day Babsi Zangerl flashes Free Rider Can Beetroot Powder Improve Athletic Performance? Effect of tadalafil (Cialis) on anaerobic performance indices in healthy athletes Follow FOND on Instagram Listen to FOND on Apple Music / Spotify -- Links on Bandcamp  Become a RunOut Rope Gun! Support our podcast and increase your RunOut runtime. Bonus episodes, AMA, and more will be available to our Rope Guns. Thank you for your support! http://patreon.com/runoutpodcast Contact us Send ideas, voicemail, feedback and more. [email protected] // [email protected]

Tanner Wanish and Michael Vaill are two of the best speed climbers in Yosemite today. They currently hold the record for the historic Yosemite Triple Crown with a time of 17 hours and 55 minutes, and they're also the only climbers to also add in a fourth big wall on top of that feat—a linkup they dubbed the Quad.  We spoke to Tanner and Michael about their partnership, the allure of linkups, the dangers of speed climbing and competition, and the real joy beyond what you see on social media of clocking big walls for breakfast. But first, bolts be pulling out, yo. What's the best way to address aging crags? Your fixed podcast anchors weigh in. Last, the infamous Tall Jonathan, of the podcast formerly known as TAPS call-in fame, AKA Jonathan Sides, delivers Something More. Show Notes Forget the Yosemite Triple… These Guys Just Did the Quad How Two Lesser-Known Rock Climbers Smashed a Fabled Yosemite Record Follow Tanner Wanish Follow Michael Vaill Listen to "Something More" by Jonathan Sides on Spotify Follow Jonathan Sides on Instagram Enormocast 302: Last Rites  Increase your RunOut runtime. Become a RunOut Rope Gun!  Bonus episodes, AMA, and more are available on Patreon. This is the best way to support the show! Thank you for your support! http://patreon.com/runoutpodcast

Jon Glassberg is a photographer and filmmaker, and Emily Harrington is one of America's most prolific professional climbers, whose all-around feats span summits of 8,000 meter peaks, 5.14, National Comp podiums, and free ascents of El Capitan. Their new film is Girl Climber, which is profile of Emily and her quest to free climb Golden Gate on El Capitan in a day.  But first, crack open a case of Send Lite and help us ponder whether we need way more terms for doing what we do with our rock-climbing ascents. Our final bit is "Big Wall," an alt-rock ear worm from Nathan Murdoch, from the forthcoming EP "If You're Not There." Show Notes Follow Emily Harrington Follow Jon Glassberg Pre-order Girl Climber from Jolt Film Girl Climber film review from Climbing Mag Follow Nathan Murdoch Listen to Big Wall on Spotify  Become a RunOut Rope Gun! Support our podcast and increase your RunOut runtime. Bonus episodes, AMA, and more will be available to our Rope Guns. Thank you for your support! http://patreon.com/runoutpodcast Contact us Send ideas, voicemail, feedback and more. [email protected] // [email protected]

Jordan Cannon is a professional climber, known for his free and speed-climbing feats on El Capitan. Mark Hudon is one of the fathers of big-wall free climbing, best known for making a very early and audacious free attempt of the Salathé Wall in 1979 with Max Jones, nearly a decade before El Cap was officially first free climbed by Todd Skinner and Paul Piana. Jordan and Mark's partnership is legendary, best encapsulated in the film "Free As Can Be," which documents Jordan's ascent of Freerider in a day and Mark's attempt to finally complete a free ascent of El Capitan by the same route, more than four decades later.  On today's episode, we make podcasting history by recording our episode live from halfway up the side of El Capitan, as Jordan attempts to free the Salathé Wall via the rarely repeated, and arguably official crux pitch—the infamous pitch 19—with Mark supporting him on belay.  This is a two-part episode. To hear the second half of our conversation, you'll need to join us at Patreon.com But first, your over-stoker podcast hosts run into the latest climbing headlines and cover the biggest downgrades to the most impressive ascents, while wondering whether it's all just one big Tommy Caldwell sandbag. Today's final bit features the return of the Seattle post punk power trio rock band Dragontail Peak, with the song Three Rules--as in three rules of big-wall climbing. Show Notes Mandatory listening: "Bonus: The Free Salathé Wall’s Strange Revisionist History"  "Bonus: Pitch 19, Part Deux" Enormocast: Episode 152: Mark Hudon and Max Jones – As Free as Can Be. Follow Jordan Cannon on Instagram Follow Mark Hudon on Instagram Mark Hudon website Bill Ramsey, 64, does Wrongdoer (8b+) Tommy Caldwell, 46, does Empath 9a (+) calling it 8c From V16 to Big Walls: Pietro Vidi Makes the Second Ascent of ‘Lurking Fear’ UNCUT: "No one Mourns The Wicked" - V17/9A - Hamish McArthur Follow DragonTail Peak on Instagram DragonTail Peak on Bandcamp Become a RunOut Rope Gun! Support our podcast and increase your RunOut runtime. Bonus episodes, AMA, and more will be available to our Rope Guns. Thank you for your support! http://patreon.com/runoutpodcast Contact us Send ideas, voicemail, feedback and more. [email protected] // [email protected]

Sonnie Trotter is a professional climber from Canada, whose notable ascents include the first ascent of Cobra Crack in Squamish, The Shining on Mount Louis, and the Pineapple Express on El Capitan. His new book is called UPLIFTED: The Evolution of a Climbing Life. But first, is it aid? One of climbing's most perennial questions comes up in a way that leaves your hosts breathless.  Our final bit is "Yamashiro" by Recorduroy, a fusion band based in Colorado, with climber Dave Cohen on drums.  Show Notes "UPLIFTED: The Evolution of a Climbing Life" from Patagonia Books Read "Manboy" an excerpt from Sonnie's new book on Evening Sends Follow Sonnie Trotter on Instagram Listen to Yamashiro on Spotify and Apple Music Recorduroy on Spotify and Apple Music Follow Recorduroy on Instagram Why an Inhaler Sparked a Personal Style Debate on ‘Life of Villains’ Become a RunOut Rope Gun! Support our podcast and increase your RunOut runtime. Bonus episodes, AMA, and more will be available to our Rope Guns. Thank you for your support! http://patreon.com/runoutpodcast Contact us Send ideas, voicemail, feedback and more. [email protected] // [email protected]

Briana Mazzolini-Blanchard is the executive director of Urban Native Collective, the host of the Life on the Margins: An Urban Native Experience podcast, the co-founder of the Indigenous Field Guide, and a collaborator with the American Climbing Project. She recently stepped down from the Red River Gorge Climbing Coalition Board of Directors over their decision to discontinue their community programming: Climb L8, an initiative integral to their efforts to remove systemic and financial barriers to entry into rock climbing. But first, your very influential podcast hosts discuss the latest list of top climbing influencers, talk about what we want to see on social media, and give our draft picks for our top follows. Our final bit is Boulder-based climber Kyle Ward's band Dry Mouth, back with more. Show Notes Follow Briana Mazzolini-Blanchard on Instagram Urban Native Collective Urban Native Collective on Instagram Life on the Margins Podcast Life on the Margins Podcast on Instagram American Climbing Project on Instagram American Climbing Project on Patreon Climb L8 - web archive Follow Kyle Ward on Instagram Follow Dry Mouth on Instagram Dry Mouth - Soundcloud Become a RunOut Rope Gun! Support our podcast and increase your RunOut runtime. Bonus episodes, AMA, and more will be available to our Rope Guns. Thank you for your support! http://patreon.com/runoutpodcast

Mark Synnott is a professional big-wall climber, expedition sailor, and writer whose books have included The Third Pole and The Impossible Climb. His latest book is Into The Ice, an epic read about his recent voyage across the infamous Northwest Passage and the historical mysteries that lie within. The 6,736-mile journey takes 112 days, allowing Mark to give us his most personal memoir yet while weaving in the historical details of British explorer Sir John Franklin and the 128 men he led on an ill-fated expedition in the mid-19th century. But first, we gush over some cool climbing news: Brooke Raboutou becomes the first woman to reach 5.15c, and Connor Herson makes a quick tick of one of the hardest crack climbs in the desert: Mason Earle's Stranger Than Fiction Our final bit is a throwback to a moment in time when the Black Nugget in Carbondale was the place to be, and Sector 7G found a groove that sent the cowboys and hippies spiraling. Show Notes Follow Mark Synnott on Instagram and check out his homepage "Into the Ice" from Penguin Random House All books by Mark Synnott Northwest Passage - Wikipedia Northwest Passage - AP The RunOut #60 - Mark Synnott and Everest News: Brooke Raboutou Climbs 5.15c Follow Brooke | Her send post News: Connor Herson Climbs Stranger Than Fiction (5.14b) Follow Connor | His send post Mason Earle's tapped foot