Follow-Up: Matt Heyliger — Pulley Injury Rehab (Part 1)

Justin Salas is a legally blind climber who is a 6x National Champion and the 2018 World Champion. He’s also climbed up to V11 outside. We talked about what his visual experience is like, the psychology of an invisible disability, assistive technology, how he climbs, sight guides, projecting tactics, building out a van, the Olympics and paraclimbing competitions, visualization, being a changemaker, and much more.Holiday Gift Ideas:patreon.com/thenuggetclimbing/giftGift a Patreon subscription 👆frictitiousclimbing.com/products/the-nugThe NUG 👆thenuggetclimbing.com/shopHello Friends merch 👆Mad Rock:madrock.comUse code “NUGGET10” at checkout for 10% off your next order.Rhino Skin Solutions:rhinoskinsolutions.comUse code “NUGGET” at checkout for 20% off your next order!BetterHelp:betterhelp.com/NUGGETUse this link for 10% off your first month. We are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:Michael Roy, Mark and Julie Calhoun, and Yinan LiuShow Notes:  thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/justin-salasNuggets:(00:00:00) – Intro(00:01:23) – Pulley injuries(00:05:26) – Vanlife(00:11:01) – Justin’s visual experience(00:15:35) – An invisible disability(00:23:37) – “Yes I’m blind, no I’m not.”(00:27:55) – Faces(00:30:45) – Losing his vision(00:35:59) – Denial, gratitude, & bad days(00:40:58) – BMX & getting into climbing(00:44:49) – Coping mechanisms(00:48:36) – Assistive technology(00:54:34) – How he climbs(01:02:26) – His first day of climbing(01:10:59) – Sight guides(01:22:34) – Footholds(01:25:29) – Stamina training(01:28:21) – Fred’s Cave & projecting tactics(01:33:14) – Getting inspired(01:36:34) – Texas Hold Em(01:37:32) – Assessing landings(01:41:31) – Downclimbing & approaching(01:45:04) – Toothpaste(01:47:58) – Specialized bikes(01:51:42) – Asking for help(01:57:54) – April(02:05:47) – Building out a van(02:10:09) – Vegas(02:12:56) – Nature is healing(02:15:37) – Overcoming fear(02:24:55) – Mitigating risk(02:27:29) – What drives Justin in climbing(02:30:48) – The Olympics & paraclimbing competitions(02:39:39) – Blind visualization(02:46:48) – Building a mental map(02:50:11) – Changemaker(02:54:40) – Faith(03:01:04) – Curiosity & learning(03:04:31) – A beautiful question from Andy(03:11:28) – “A house divided will fall.”

Eric Jerome is a V15 climber and prolific bouldering developer. We talked about getting hit by a drunk driver, how his injury led to a paradigm shift, why he is actively caring less about climbing, seeking the minimal effective dose, developing new boulders in the Flaming Gorge and The New, buying a house, his career with KAYA, the gamification of climbing, and much more.Holiday Gift Ideas:patreon.com/thenuggetclimbing/giftGift a Patreon subscription 👆frictitiousclimbing.com/products/the-nugThe NUG 👆thenuggetclimbing.com/shopHello Friends merch 👆Mad Rock:madrock.comUse code “NUGGET10” at checkout for 10% off your next order.PhysiVantage:physivantage.com (link includes 15% off coupon)Use code "NUGGET15" at checkout for 15% off your next order.Green Chef:greenchef.com/NUGGET50Use code "NUGGET50" for 50% off your first box plus 20% off your next two months.Become a Patron:patreon.com/thenuggetclimbingWe are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:Michael Roy, Mark and Julie Calhoun, and Yinan LiuShow Notes:  thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/eric-jeromeNuggets:(00:00:00) – Intro(00:02:12) – Hit & run(00:04:42) – The recovery process(00:07:57) – A paradigm shift(00:10:55) – The Top 100 project(00:13:23) – A really fun game(00:17:08) – A healthier relationship with climbing(00:21:02) – Body type & relationship with food(00:25:12) – Finger strength & volume as a heavier climber(00:33:33) – Minimal effective dose(00:40:59) – Cycling projects & developing(00:49:02) – A new bouldering area in Utah(01:00:57) – Documenting new boulders(01:08:00) – Bouldering in The New(01:11:47) – Buying a house in West Virginia(01:32:37) – House swaps & gratitude(01:37:45) – More about The New(01:46:09) – Life going forward(01:50:02) – Summer vibes in The New(01:53:15) – Best lines in the UK(01:55:09) – Eric’s career with KAYA(02:03:19) – Building a database(02:07:25) – Gamification & misconceptions about KAYA(02:17:38) – Upcoming KAYA features(02:21:02) – Wrap up & EXTRA teaser

Beth Rodden is one of the best female rock climbers of all time. We talked about her kidnapping in Kyrgyzstan, facing backlash after her divorce, reflections on her climbing career, her history with Magic Line, disconnecting self-worth from achievement, the unwinnable game of climbing, personal evolution, why she loves human stories, and much more. Her new book, A Light Through the Cracks: A Climber’s Story is available now.Become a Patron:patreon.com/thenuggetclimbing BetterHelp:betterhelp.com/NUGGETUse this link for 10% off your first month.Revival Climbing Coalition:revivalclimbing.comEP 225: Tony Bell & David Bress (my episode with the founders of Revival)Mad Rock:madrock.comUse code “NUGGET10” at checkout for 10% off your next order.Rhino Skin Solutions:rhinoskinsolutions.comUse code “NUGGET” at checkout for 20% off your next order! We are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:Michael Roy, Mark and Julie Calhoun, and Yinan LiuShow Notes:  thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/beth-roddenNuggets:(00:00:00) – Intro(00:00:54) – Injuries(00:03:28) – Writing her book(00:08:14) – Excavating memories(00:11:05) – Coming around to therapy(00:13:59) – Living in fear(00:16:13) – Kyrgyzstan(00:21:45) – More excavation & therapy(00:27:06) – Putting the book together(00:28:29) – A shared experience(00:37:45) – Being honest(00:44:03) – Not reading Tommy’s book(00:47:39) – Facing backlash(00:56:11) – Reductionism(01:00:55) – Family trips with the Caldwells(01:05:24) – Reflecting on her climbing career(01:10:48) – Magic Line(01:18:53) – Self-worth, achievement, & change(01:29:49) – An unwinnable game(01:36:30) – Evolution & human stories(01:40:18) – Favorite memoirs(01:44:28) – The next level down(01:46:42) – Feedback & criticism(01:51:27) – Her feelings about her book(01:54:10) – Where to buy Beth’s book(01:55:14) – Wrap up & EXTRA teaser

Chris Sharma is one of the greatest climbers of all time. We talked about his rapid ascension as a teenager, the knee injury that almost ended his career, why La Dura Dura was a turning point, reinventing ourselves as climbers, the importance of finishing what you start, what he does in the off-season, mini objectives, embracing competition, finding contentment, having kids, and much more. Become a Patron:patreon.com/thenuggetclimbing Crimpd:crimpd.comOr download the Crimpd app for free!PhysiVantage:physivantage.com (link includes 15% off coupon)Use code "NUGGET15" at checkout for 15% off your next order.Revival Climbing Coalition:revivalclimbing.comEP 225: Tony Bell & David Bress (my episode with the founders of Revival)Mad Rock:madrock.comUse code “NUGGET10” at checkout for 10% off your next order. We are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:Michael Roy, Mark and Julie Calhoun, and Yinan LiuShow Notes:  thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/chris-sharmaNuggets:(00:00:00) – Intro(00:01:48) – Community & climbing alone(00:07:15) – A rapid ascension & crashing down(00:10:32) – Knee injury(00:13:29) – Reinventing our relationship(00:17:27) – La Dura Dura(00:20:07) – New challenges(00:27:32) – Chapters(00:29:59) – Finding the sweet spot(00:36:46) – Biographie & traveling in Asia(00:41:58) – Persistence & evolution(00:48:22) – Finishing what you start(00:52:32) – Should or should not(00:59:18) – Sleeping Lion & speed climbing(01:03:55) – First Round First Minute(01:11:17) – Paris Olympics(01:13:21) – Le Blonde & Perfecto Mundo(01:15:48) – Playfulness & mini objectives(01:19:43) – DWS during the off-season(01:27:21) – Santa Linya(01:32:30) – US Lead Nationals & competing again(01:40:17) – Paris 2028(01:46:32) – Embracing competition(01:50:00) – The next generation(01:54:12) – The media churn(01:57:22) – JB Tribout’s advice(02:00:22) – “It’s cool to do hard shit. ”(02:05:18) – Finding contentment & having kids(02:12:32) – Ferrari(02:16:16) – Magic(02:19:12) – More psyched than ever(02:21:24) – Climbing for other people(02:25:10) – Wrap up & EXTRA teaser

Thomas Huber is a German rock climbing and mountaineering legend. We talked about his most recent expedition to Pakistan, how to have fun at basecamp, exploring the impossible, his first trip to Buoux as a teenager, beer diets, his relationship with his brother Alex, challenges, silver linings, partying with the Stone Monkeys in Yosemite, his new book Freiheit, and much more.Become a Patron:patreon.com/thenuggetclimbing Revival Climbing Coalition:revivalclimbing.comEP 225: Tony Bell & David Bress (my episode with the founders of Revival)Chalk Cartel:chalkcartel.comUse code "NUGGET" at checkout for 20% off your next order.Rhino Skin Solutions:rhinoskinsolutions.comUse code “NUGGET” at checkout for 20% off your next order!BetterHelp:betterhelp.com/NUGGETUse this link for 10% off your first month. We are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:Michael Roy, Craig Lee, Mark and Julie Calhoun, Yinan Liu, and Matt WalterShow Notes:  thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/thomas-huberNuggets:(00:00:00) – Intro(00:01:25) – Many valleys(00:04:53) – Hunting(00:14:39) – Staying young(00:16:29) – Thomas’ recent trip to Choktoi(00:27:12) – Lessons from expeditions(00:31:05) – Party in basecamp(00:35:48) – The Pakistanis’ relationship with climbing(00:45:48) – Exploring the impossible(00:51:12) – Understanding why accidents happen(00:55:50) – Sport climbing at age 57(00:57:45) – Mountaineering holiday(01:01:17) – Beer break(01:02:37) – Early training(01:09:36) – Part of the evolution(01:11:42) – His first trip to Buoux(01:13:53) – Inspiration & training setup(01:19:11) – Finger strength in his 50s(01:20:55) – 9a & beer(01:27:36) – Reaching the world stage(01:30:38) – His relationship with his brother Alex(01:37:29) – Proudest accomplishments with Alex(01:39:31) – Challenges & silver linings(01:46:17) – Yosemite & the Stone Monkeys(01:54:00) – Patagonia(01:56:09) – El Nino on El Cap(01:58:39) – The man-powered rappel(02:00:45) – Keeping their stories alive(02:06:24) – Freiheit

Moe’s Valley access is under threat! Todd Perkins returns to the show to talk about what is happening with Moe’s Valley, what actions are being taken to protect it, and what we can do to help. You can sign the petition here!Sign the Petition:Petition to Permanently Protect the Greater Moe’s Valley Area(https://docs.google.com/forms/d/e/1FAIpQLSf3winkzQEwb-NI9TPPIW0yaEo1iLcifw43N0sCS5X9sW3nhQ/viewform)More Links:stgeorgeclimberscoalition.orgShow Notes:  thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/todd-perkins-returnsNuggets:(00:00:00) – A few thoughts about my political episode with Kaizen(00:02:16) – Intro(00:03:34) – A splash of cold water(00:04:33) – What’s going on with Moe’s Valley(00:10:24) – Todd’s early days in Moe’s(00:13:30) – Moe’s has it’s place(00:14:04) – The petition & upcoming hearings(00:17:46) – Fundraising(00:21:18) – Stories from Todd(00:27:56) – Striking a balance(00:30:58) – Todd’s health & climbing(00:33:00) – Top secret information(00:34:02) – Wrap up

Fundamentals Season 2 (Part 6 of 6) — If you climb long enough, you’ll inevitably hit a plateau. In part 6, Jesse and I share our top tips and pitfalls for how to break through plateaus and continue progressing in your climbing. We cover the importance of focusing on skills rather than grades, doubling down on the basics, how to continually progress as a climber, and much more.Listen to more Fundamentals episodes:thenuggetclimbing.com/fundamentalsThe NUG:frictitiousclimbing.com/products/the-nugCheck out my new portable hangboard.Rhino Skin Solutions:rhinoskinsolutions.comUse code “NUGGET” at checkout for 20% off your next order!Revival Climbing Coalition:revivalclimbing.comEP 225: Tony Bell & David Bress (my episode with the founders of Revival)Check out the Tension Board 2:tensionboard.com/nuggetOr use the Tension app to find a TB2 near you.BetterHelp:betterhelp.com/NUGGETUse this link for 10% off your first month. We are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:Michael Roy, Craig Lee, Mark and Julie Calhoun, Yinan Liu, and Matt Walter Become a Patron:patreon.com/thenuggetclimbingShow Notes:  thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/fundamentals-s2-part-6Nuggets:(00:00:00) – Intro(00:01:21) – Our longest plateaus(00:03:50) – Jesse’s Tip #1: Think long-term(00:08:10) – Steven’s Tip #1: Get focused and make sure everything you are doing has a reason behind it(00:10:51) – Jesse’s Tip #2: Focus on objectives instead of grades(00:14:17) – Steven’s Tip #2: Consider rebuilding from the ground up(00:17:29) – Jesse’s Tip #3: Focus on your climbing skills and not the grades(00:28:34) – Steven’s Tip #3: Do more of what you haven’t been doing(00:33:24) – Jesse’s Tip #4: Double down on the basics (sleep, nutrition, stress, etc.)(00:37:19) – Long rests & rewarming up(00:38:12) – Steven’s Tip #4: Consider changing your circumstances(00:42:40) – Pressure testing your assumptions(00:44:12) – Creative home walls(00:45:06) – Steven’s Pitfall #1: Doing more of what you’ve been doing(00:45:49) – Jesse’s Pitfall #1: Overtraining(00:50:32) – Steven’s Pitfall #2: Getting captured by other people’s agendas(01:00:46) – Jesse’s Pitfall #2: Too much limit checking(01:04:27) – What to do when you run out of routes or boulders to progress through(01:09:21) – Steven’s Pitfall #3: Switching styles too often(01:12:43) – Jesse’s Pitfall #3: You’re not actually plateaued, you’ve just built a tower(01:15:01) – Area-specific pyramids(01:19:48) – That’s a wrap on season 2!

Kaizen Asiedu is a Harvard graduate in philosophy, an Emmy winner, and a life coach. We talked about our political backgrounds and values, what happened to RFK Jr, the health crisis in the US, foreign wars, how the coming election could affect the future of democracy, mainstream media, censorship and free speech, abortion, the steel man case for Kamala and Trump, and much more.Join Kaizen’s Courage Collective:skool.com/courageShow Notes:  thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/kaizen-asieduNuggets:(00:00:00) – Kaizen's Emmy(00:04:22) – My political background, the health crisis, & RKF Jr(00:11:01) – My algorithm breaking & discovering Kaizen(00:12:46) – What Kaizen does(00:14:32) – Kaizen’s political journey(00:21:13) – Kaizen’s awakening(00:28:35) – Becoming a life coach(00:31:51) – The media, our legal system, & Trump(00:39:15) – How the media portrays RFK Jr, & the “white supremacists are very fine people” narrative(00:43:16) – Kaizen’s experience talking about Trump(00:46:25) – Nuance & the power of being truthful(00:51:13) – Media bias, the influence of advertising, & polarized perceptions(00:56:12) – Incentives drive everything(00:57:14) – Tulsi Gabbard, Joe Biden’s cognitive decline, & and the DNC appointing Kamala Harris(01:02:09) – Kaizen’s political journey continued(01:10:12) – Priorities(01:12:00) – What is America?(01:14:15) – What does a “great” America actually look like?(01:20:57) – Government corruption, Hunter Biden’s laptop, censorship, & free speech(01:29:48) – Why this election is bigger than Trump vs. Harris(01:32:35) – Why I feel frustrated with US politics(01:35:34) – My health journey & why I care about the health crisis(01:40:52) – The sick care system & our food system(01:42:13) – Monsanto, GMO crops, Roundup, glyphosate, Bayer, & cancer lawsuits(01:47:47) – How much we spend managing chronic disease(01:50:40) – Sense vs. dollars(01:53:32) – The health crisis is fundamental(01:59:34) – Ripple effects(02:01:47) – Pharma & conflicts of interest(02:02:30) – Voting with our dollars(02:07:57) – Taking responsibility(02:09:15) – Synergistic effects(02:10:24) – Abortion, racism, & what happens if Trump wins(02:23:59) – Inviting curiosity & losing perspective(02:27:24) – Steel man argument for Kamala Harris(02:32:25) – Mass deportation(02:37:48) – Steel man argument for Trump(02:41:34) – January 6th(02:44:17) – Mail-in ballots & voter ID(02:48:26) – My final thoughts(02:50:41) – Kaizen’s final thoughts & The Courage Collective

Felipe Camargo is a professional climber from Brazil and the first South American to climb 9b (5.15b). We talked about his humble beginnings in climbing and selling soda to fund his first competition, training for 5.15 on a 3-meter spray wall, how signing with Red Bull changed his life, why we climb, what he learned from Patxi Usobiaga, his new film Tropical Lines, climbing hotspots in South America, his current projects, and much more.Become a Patron:patreon.com/thenuggetclimbing Chalk Cartel:chalkcartel.comUse code "NUGGET" at checkout for 20% off your next order.PhysiVantage:physivantage.com (link includes 15% off coupon)Use code "NUGGET15" at checkout for 15% off your next order.Mad Rock:madrock.comUse code “NUGGET” at checkout for 10% off your next order.Crimpd:crimpd.comOr download the Crimpd app for free! We are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:Michael Roy, Craig Lee, Mark and Julie Calhoun, Yinan Liu, and Matt WalterShow Notes:  thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/felipe-camargoNuggets:(00:00:00) – Intro(00:01:17) – Felipe’s intro to climbing(00:03:43) – Training on a small spray wall(00:05:54) – Ultimate Beastmaster(00:08:53) – Becoming the first South American to climb 9b(00:12:35) – Selling soda to fund his first competition(00:14:42) – World Championships in Spain(00:16:17) – Early sponsorships & traveling(00:19:57) – Signing with Red Bull & TNF(00:25:45) – Representing South America(00:26:56) – Papichulo 9a+ (5.15a)(00:28:33) – Goal oriented(00:34:20) – “Why do we do this?”(00:40:30) – Gancho Perfecto 9a+ (5.15a)(00:41:46) – Full Journey & Perfecto Mundo(00:44:20) – Training on a spray wall(00:47:44) – Learning from Patxi Usobiaga(00:50:56) – Being smarter with training(00:54:29) – When to specialize(00:57:22) – Felipe’s training as a kid(00:59:48) – Tropical Lines(01:08:28) – Climbing conditions in Brazil(01:10:26) – Crags in Brazil(01:14:32) – Hotspots in South America(01:17:36) – More about Tropical Lines(01:19:20) – Auto Retrato 9a+(01:21:05) – The Grand Illusion V16(01:25:29) – Full Journey 9b (5.15b)(01:27:40) – El Bon Combat 9b (5.15b)(01:28:23) – Endurance on the Moonboard(01:33:35) – Wrap up & EXTRA teaser

Matt Heyliger guides me through rehab for a minor A2 pulley injury. We talk about how the injury happened, what I should have done to nip it in the bud, the remodeling phase, when to do density hangs, when it's ok to push it, thoughts on taping, pain threshold testing, acupressure rings, how to climb around a pulley injury, and more. Stay tuned for part 2 next week. Become a Patron to get access to the full episode! And support the podcast! *The full version is 1:17:15.*Watch the uncut video interview here!patreon.com/thenuggetclimbingMartin's Original Episode:EP 143: Matt HeyligerWork With Matt:www.sendagain.coNuggets:(00:00:00) – Banter with Matt(00:03:47) – Overview of my finger injury(00:06:42) – What I should have done(00:17:44) – Remodeling & density hangs(00:23:12) – The injury timeline(00:25:00) – When to push it & thoughts on taping(00:27:40) – Recap of our first PT session (not recorded)(00:29:49) – Maintaining strength & avoiding barbells(00:33:56) – 4x loading per day (6 reps of 10 seconds on, 20 seconds off)(00:37:37) – BFR(00:40:02) – Finger pain threshold testing(00:46:27) – How I felt after finger testing(00:47:40) – Planning out my climbing(00:53:00) – Palpation & massage(00:57:04) – Acupressure rings(00:58:30) – The next phase of loading(01:05:52) – Too many moves in a session(01:07:34) – How to climb around a minor pulley injury(01:09:41) – Tetris(01:11:00) – Testing with tape(01:12:11) – Plans for the coming week