Antasyafi Robby Al Hilmi - Indonesian Speed Climbing DOMINANCE

Lučka is a lead climber from Slovenia who recently won bronze at the European championships and came back to the world climbing scene after undergoing cancer-removing surgery in 2025. In this episode, we’ll hear about how her cancer diagnosis affected her climbing, training, and mental health, we’ll learn about the Slovenian team, and we’ll put together a tier list for the worst things that can happen in a lead comp.Guest links:Lucka's InstagramReference links:Thank you Mad Rock for sponsoring this episode! Use code 'notrealclimber' for 10% off your ENTIRE order, even if you're a returning customer! https://madrock.com/Learn more about the podcast at www.thatsnotrealclimbingpodcast.comFollow on Instagram at https://www.instagram.com/thatsnotrealclimbingpodcastJoin the FREE community in Discord! https://discord.gg/QTa668g8zpJoin Patreon for a welcome gift, deleted scenes, and question priority: www.patreon.com/thatsnotrealclimbingpodcastTimestamps of discussion topics0:00 - Intro1:29 - Mad Rock Shoutout!!2:24 - Finger injury before European champs5:54 - Getting into climbing and competing11:11 - Reading and memorizing the lead route15:38 - Ranking the worst things to happen during a lead route20:02 - Training plan22:11 - Thyroid cancer diagnosis + emetaphobia31:20 - How long it took to return to climbing35:50 - The mental effect of returning to competition38:56 - Does the Slovenian team train with Janja?42:53 - Dating within the team45:50 - 2028 Olympic hopes?47:58 - Post-climbing plans?53:12 - Future dog plans56:53 - AUDIENCE Q: Are you afraid of falling?1:00:15 - AUDIENCE Q: Previous Slovenian legends?1:01:36 - AUDIENCE Q: How many routes and what difficulty in 1 session?1:05:53 - Where to find Lucka

Ella is a lead climber on team USA who made her first world series finals earlier this year in Prague! In this episode, we’ll learn about how she climbs the same lead routes all year round to train in Arizona, why she doesn’t want to move to Salt Lake City despite that, how a simple vitamin deficiency wrecked her body for a whole year, and how she went from placing 40th in world cups to making semis and finals in 1 year.Guest links:Ella's InstagramReference links:Check out https://comp.rocks for climbing competitions near you! (Currently USA only)Thank you Mad Rock for sponsoring this episode! Use code 'notrealclimber' for 10% off your ENTIRE order, even if you're a returning customer! https://madrock.com/Learn more about the podcast at www.thatsnotrealclimbingpodcast.comFollow on Instagram at https://www.instagram.com/thatsnotrealclimbingpodcastJoin the FREE community in Discord! https://discord.gg/QTa668g8zpJoin Patreon for a welcome gift, deleted scenes, and question priority: www.patreon.com/thatsnotrealclimbingpodcastTimestamps of discussion topics0:00 - Intro1:42 - Mad Rock Shoutout!!2:33 - Preparing for Koper10:36 - Starting climbing at 314:03 - Getting coached by her dad20:09 - Fitness is all that matters for lead?24:42 - Why she doesn't want to move to SLC30:14 - Beta video before lead quails!!!34:36 - Seeing a dyno in a lead route35:58 - First WS finals experience41:33 - 40th place to making finals in 1 year44:38 - Training routine49:52 - Ella LOVES autobelays!57:13 - Youth climbers don't need to hang board59:41 - A year of health issues1:10:08 - Upcoming goals1:13:25 - Balancing training with coaching and college1:19:40 - AUDIENCE Q: How do you deal with pressure?1:21:46 - AUDIENCE Q: Do you do fantasy climbing league?1:22:58 - AUDIENCE Q: Would you ever go back to Schwandorf?1:29:33 - Where to find Ella

Robby is a speed climber from Indonesia who has already gotten 2 silver medals in the world series season this year! In this episode, we’ll learn about the climbing scene in Indonesia, speed climbing rituals and whether they’re actually helpful, we’ll hear this thoughts on the 4 lane and speed relay formats, and we’ll get insight into how he got so good at speed climbing after only training it consistently for 3 years.Guest links:Robby's InstagramReference links:Robby's favorite speed moment - Sam's WRThank you Mad Rock for sponsoring this episode! Use code 'notrealclimber' for 10% off your ENTIRE order, even if you're a returning customer! https://madrock.com/Learn more about the podcast at www.thatsnotrealclimbingpodcast.comFollow on Instagram at https://www.instagram.com/thatsnotrealclimbingpodcastJoin the FREE community in Discord! https://discord.gg/QTa668g8zpJoin Patreon for a welcome gift, deleted scenes, and question priority: www.patreon.com/thatsnotrealclimbingpodcastTimestamps of discussion topics0:00 - Intro1:37 - Mad Rock Shoutout!!2:28 - Getting medals in Europe3:51 - Only been seriously speed training for 3 years?!10:33 - Breaking plateaus15:26 - Ritual before each speed run21:15 - What's more important: Speed or consistency?22:58 - What speed training looks like28:57 - Opinion on relay format31:40 - How team selection works37:23 - The surprises that come with 4 lanes39:27 - Indonesia climbing scene45:44 - 2027 goals and lessons from Sam Watson + Zhao Yicheng51:17 - Olympic dreams52:15 - Hobbies and studying53:39 - AUDIENCE Q: How do you handle burnout?56:57 - AUDIENCE Q: How did you improve so fast?59:11 - AUDIENCE Q: Do you breathe during a speed run?1:00:21 - AUDIENCE Q: Do you train other sports?1:01:30 - AUDIENCE Q: Describe your previous coach?1:03:48 - Where to find Robby

Meagan Knecht and C Lad are both level 5 belayers in the USA who are also helping out with belay training videos for World Climbing. In this episode, we’ll debunk the myth that women can’t belay men or heavier climbers, we’ll learn about the problems with Assisted Braking Device (ABD)requirements in gyms, and of course, we'll talk about how to get into high level belaying and how they became SPONSORED belayers thanks to Trango.Guest links:USA Belay InstagramC Lad's InstagramMeagan's InstagramUSA Belay YouTubeReference links:Wujiang 2025 Belayer Aiding ClimberThank you Mad Rock for sponsoring this episode! Use code 'notrealclimber' for 10% off your ENTIRE order, even if you're a returning customer! https://madrock.com/Learn more about the podcast at www.thatsnotrealclimbingpodcast.comFollow on Instagram at https://www.instagram.com/thatsnotrealclimbingpodcastJoin the FREE community in Discord! https://discord.gg/QTa668g8zpJoin Patreon for a welcome gift, deleted scenes, and question priority: www.patreon.com/thatsnotrealclimbingpodcastTimestamps of discussion topics0:00 - Intro1:29 - Mad Rock Shoutout!!2:19 - Excitement for Pan-American series4:21 - Getting into climbing and belaying14:02 - AUDIENCE Q: Difference between an avg vs elite belayer?20:26 - Work that allows the flexibility for travel22:48 - How to get into belaying at a high level27:43 - Setting the standard for World Climbing34:36 - ATC vs ABDs in gyms39:06 - The belayer's unique pivotal role43:41 - Snugroping?45:28 - Athlete interactions48:00 - Dual-belay system52:44 - Is it too late to become an Olympics belayer? 56:42 - Being sponsored as belayers1:01:54 - Why is belaying para the best?1:08:46 - Routesetting that makes belaying harder1:14:25 - AUDIENCE Q: What's it like to walk up to an Olympian and belay them?1:16:59 - AUDIENCE Q: Favorite venue to belay at?1:18:33 - Where to find the beladies and words of wisdom

Max is a World Climbing routesetter from Great Britain who most recently set for the bouldering world series in Bern 2026 and will be setting for Salt Lake in October as well. In this episode, we’ll learn about hold shaping, what happened when the Bern finals boulders got leaked early online, whether world cup routesetters can actually climb the boulders they set, and we’ll hear about his extremely hot take on “alternative” climbing moves...I had no idea that he was the infamous cartwheel boulder setter.Guest links:Max's InstagramReference links:Bern Women's M3CWIF Cartwheel BoulderThank you Mad Rock for sponsoring this episode! Use code 'notrealclimber' for 10% off your ENTIRE order, even if you're a returning customer! https://madrock.com/Learn more about the podcast at www.thatsnotrealclimbingpodcast.comFollow on Instagram at https://www.instagram.com/thatsnotrealclimbingpodcastJoin the FREE community in Discord! https://discord.gg/QTa668g8zpJoin Patreon for a welcome gift, deleted scenes, and question priority: www.patreon.com/thatsnotrealclimbingpodcastTimestamps of discussion topics0:00 - Intro1:21 - Mad Rock Shoutout!!2:28 - Climbing, competing, setting background7:00 - World climbing setting levels 10:44 - Bern Finals boulders got leaked15:24 - AUDIENCE Q: Is it easier setting in a climate-controlled venue?18:24 - What is the perfect round?22:02 - AUDIENCE Q: What guidance does world climbing give for setters?24:19 - Forerunning process29:26 - Setting "unconventional" moves34:46 - OMG!! This is the OG cartwheel guy!!38:00 - The divergence of indoor/comp climbing from outdoors 42:34 - Zones vs tops point change44:53 - Starting Contact Holds with Alex Waterhouse52:55 - AUDIENCE Q: What's Alex Waterhouse up to?!54:26 - AUDIENCE Q: Is there any consideration for the belayer when setting?59:21 - AUDIENCE Q: Planning vs improvising problems?1:00:45 - AUDIENCE Q: Will the Christmas Yule log comp be on this year?1:02:29 - AUDIENCE Q: Favorite member of house 51?1:03:21 - Words of wisdom and where to find Max

Sam is an 18 year old French boulderer who just recently won bronze at the 2026 Madrid world climbing series. You may also know him as the youngest person to ever do v17. In this episode, we’ll get insight into the world of new school climbing, how regimented routines and being locked in could push climbing further than ever before, and how he may want to just give up climbing one day.Guest links:Sam’s YoutubeSam’s InstagramReference links:Thank you Mad Rock for sponsoring this episode! Use code 'notrealclimber' for 10% off your ENTIRE order, even if you're a returning customer! https://madrock.com/Learn more about the podcast at www.thatsnotrealclimbingpodcast.comFollow on Instagram at https://www.instagram.com/thatsnotrealclimbingpodcastJoin the FREE community in Discord! https://discord.gg/QTa668g8zpJoin Patreon for a welcome gift, deleted scenes, and question priority: www.patreon.com/thatsnotrealclimbingpodcastTimestamps of discussion topics0:00 - Intro1:26 - Mad Rock Shoutout!!2:17 - Reflecting on Madrid World Series6:40 - Can you see results in ISO?9:31 - Starting climbing at age 212:46 - Climbing strengths and weaknesses16:17 - Fearlessness for new school climbing22:05 - French team training and powering out24:30 - French Team Selection29:36 - Qualis is the most physical round31:37 - "Sam Richard" as a persona35:19 - Getting energy from the audience38:41 - Climbing journal43:49 - Hot take: outdoor climbing is better than indoor?51:35 - Youngest person to climb v17?53:08 - Climbing optimization57:13 - Quitting climbing for running...1:01:39 - AUDIENCE Q: How's the transition from youth to senior?1:05:13 - AUDIENCE Q: How to hype yourself up?1:07:05 - AUDIENCE Q: How's the bromance between you, Mejdi, and Manu?1:10:05 - Words of widsom and where to find Sam

Andy is a climbing PT and this is his second time on the podcast. This time, he’s here with new research to talk about why youth climbers are maybe overdoing it with the climbing training, what early arthritis looks like, and the surprising dangers of outdoor climbing when it comes to competition climbers.Guest links:WebsiteInstagramReference links:Thank you Mad Rock for sponsoring this episode! Use code 'notrealclimber' for 10% off your ENTIRE order, even if you're a returning customer! https://madrock.com/Learn more about the podcast at www.thatsnotrealclimbingpodcast.comFollow on Instagram at https://www.instagram.com/thatsnotrealclimbingpodcastJoin the FREE community in Discord! https://discord.gg/QTa668g8zpJoin Patreon for a welcome gift, deleted scenes, and question priority: www.patreon.com/thatsnotrealclimbingpodcastTimestamps of discussion topics0:00 - Intro1:05 - Mad Rock Shoutout!!1:45 - Spain trip and watching PCL4:44 - Getting into climbing and PT8:00 - Youth getting into competing more?9:10 - Are youth climber overtraining?11:28 - Outcome of growth plate fractures16:43 - Youth Climbers very rarely get injured21:28 - Youth climbers should not specialize in climbing32:03 - What does arthritis look like?37:00 - Is synovitis a sign of future arthritis?38:55 - Injuries are actually coming from outdoor climbing....46:32 - Max Milne's Foot Injury49:53 - Are injury rates increasing within comp climbers?52:53 - AUDIENCE Q: Common adult injuries breaking into the comp scene?59:48 - AUDIENCE Q: Can you even climb with hyper mobility?1:06:54 - Words of wisdom and where to find Andy

You likely know Emil from being one of the OG climbing Youtubers who has also competed in a few world cups for Sweden. With his brother, Felix, they have started a new Fantasy Climbing League platform! In this episode, we’ll learn about how the Fantasy Climbing League works, how they feel about sports gambling in climbing, who their top picks are for their teams, and their predictions for all things competition.Guest links:Fantasy Climbing League SiteEmil’s YoutubeFelix’s InstagramEmil’s InstagramReference links:Boardclimbs AppThank you Mad Rock for sponsoring this episode! Use code 'notrealclimber' for 10% off your ENTIRE order, even if you're a returning customer! https://madrock.com/Learn more about the podcast at www.thatsnotrealclimbingpodcast.comFollow on Instagram at https://www.instagram.com/thatsnotrealclimbingpodcastJoin the FREE community in Discord! https://discord.gg/QTa668g8zpJoin Patreon for a welcome gift, deleted scenes, and question priority: www.patreon.com/thatsnotrealclimbingpodcastTimestamps of discussion topics0:00 - Intro1:21 - Mad Rock Shoutout!!2:01 - Living in Arco5:22 - Starting climbing and competing14:26 - Existential AI talk17:14 - Fantasy Climbing League overview21:10 - They've never played fantasy sports before!!22:47 - Drafting strategy25:37 - Are fantasy leagues gambling-adjacent??33:36 - Top picks of the season42:07 - Are injury comebacks good picks?45:13 - Janja vs Ai debate52:26 - Will Tomoa have a downfall?!1:00:03 - Tomoa v Meichi?1:02:37 - AUDIENCE Q: What style of comp climbing would change the results the most?1:10:21 - AUDIENCE Q: What will the future of comp climbing look like?1:13:38 - AUDIENCE Q: What expectations should a comp beginner have?1:18:04 - AUDIENCE Q: What's your favorite WoW dungeon?1:19:05 - Join Fantasy Climbing League ASAP!!!

Sam is a French boulder and lead climber who has medals from several world cups and competed alongside his sister, Zelia at the Paris Olympics! In this episode, we’ll learn more about what it’s like growing up in a climbing family, tips for climbing as a short king, why he struggled in the 2025 season, and how he self-coaches.Guest links:Sam’s InstagramGuitar InstagramReference links:Thank you Mad Rock for sponsoring this episode! Use code 'notrealclimber' for 10% off your ENTIRE order, even if you're a returning customer! https://madrock.com/Learn more about the podcast at www.thatsnotrealclimbingpodcast.comFollow on Instagram at https://www.instagram.com/thatsnotrealclimbingpodcastJoin the FREE community in Discord! https://discord.gg/QTa668g8zpJoin Patreon for a welcome gift, deleted scenes, and question priority: www.patreon.com/thatsnotrealclimbingpodcastTimestamps of discussion topics0:00 - Intro1:24 - Mad Rock Shoutout!!2:34 - His mother still competing at 42 years old7:45 - Getting into climbing and competing9:31 - AUDIENCE Q: Did growing up in a climbing family add pressure?12:52 - Struggling between youth and senior circuits16:51 - Rough 2025 season22:53 - 2028 Olympics strategy26:37 - Being a short king31:34 - AUDIENCE Q: Tips for short kings?35:41 - Training with the French team37:51 - AUDIENCE Q: how do you self coach?41:21 - Training only with climbing45:21 - Gyms worth visiting in Paris47:05 - Secrets to French slab51:37 - AUDIENCE Q: What are you thinking about when climbing?56:06 - Mental game58:41 - 2026 goals1:01:22 - AUDIENCE Q: Playing guitar?1:04:58 - AUDIENCE Q: Can you make a living climbing?1:08:40 - AUDIENCE Q: How to gain finger strength?1:12:23 - AUDIENCE Q: Recovery routine?1:15:56 - Where to find Sam

Jackie was the routesetting director at the Pro Climbing League (PCL) comp and is also the co-founder of Kilter! In this episode, we’ll learn more about the unique challenges that came with setting for PCL, why she thinks it’s important to have more women setting for women’s comps, and how YOU could maybe try climbing the same exact boulders set at PCL.Guest links:Kiter’s WebsiteJackie’s InstagramPro Climbing League WebsiteKilter YoutubeReference links:Underrated holdThank you Mad Rock for sponsoring this episode! Use code 'notrealclimber' for 10% off your ENTIRE order, even if you're a returning customer! https://madrock.com/Learn more about the podcast at www.thatsnotrealclimbingpodcast.comFollow on Instagram at https://www.instagram.com/thatsnotrealclimbingpodcastJoin the FREE community in Discord! https://discord.gg/QTa668g8zpJoin Patreon for a welcome gift, deleted scenes, and question priority: www.patreon.com/thatsnotrealclimbingpodcastTimestamps of discussion topics0:00 - Intro1:20 - Mad Rock Shoutout!!2:00 - Still cleaning up from PCL5:42 - Interesting Kilter free-standing option7:34 - Getting into climbing, setting, and Kilter 13:38 - The political path to becoming an IFSC setter15:34 - Starting the Woman Up Comps20:00 - What grade do you need to climb to be a route setter?22:31 - AUDIENCE Q: How did you build the PCL routesetting team?28:46 - What made setting different for PCL32:09 - How to get separation36:30 - AUDIENCE Q: Was this speed bouldering, was women's setting too easy?41:57 - Is sanding down holds fair?!43:47 - Why it's hard to calibrate for female competitors51:16 - How boulder changeover worked 55:37 - The slab that didn't get shown58:24 - Different competition strategies1:03:27 - AUDIENCE Q: Harder to gauge setting than World Cup?1:04:18 - AUDIENCE Q: Did the setting matter more than a World Cup?1:07:04 - AUDIENCE Q: Mixed gender events in the future?1:09:13 - AUDIENCE Q: idea - 2 betas per boulder?1:11:12 - AUDIENCE Q: Are setters more impressed or annoyed by beta breaks?1:17:23 - AUDIENCE Q: What makes Kilter stand out? 1:22:30 - Underrated hold?1:25:02 - Shoutouts and long work hours1:26:51 - YOU can reset the PCL climbs and experience them!