#200 Gio Placci — How To Never Stop Improving, The Problem With Onsights, and Training With The World’s Strongest Climbers

Tom Randall isn’t just one of the world’s best coaches; he’s also one of the world’s best crack climbers.In today’s episode, he sits down with Josh to discuss some of the lessons he’s learned from an incredibly storied coaching career, and what he sees as the unexpected future of trad climbing.*Patreon Bonus Content (join https://www.patreon.com/testpiece for extended cut):*- Why LatticePlan doesn’t use AI- The strength metrics of the futureJoin Patreon: HEREFollow us on Instagram: HEREVisit our podcast page: HERE

This is a recurring podcast focused on the latest things happening in climbing and what it means for our sport from industry veterans: Will Anglin, Allison Vest, and Joshua Horsley. Look at the Chapters for today's topics.*Patreon Bonus Content (join https://www.patreon.com/testpiece for extended cut):*- When should you brush away tick marks after a session and when should you leave them?Join Patreon: HEREFollow us on Instagram: HEREVisit our podcast page: HERE

Ethan Pringle needs no introduction. He’s been a pro climber for decades, sent some of the world’s most iconic highballs and routes, and — most importantly — appeared on episode 19 of The Testpiece Podcast.Today, in his long awaited return to the pod, he and Josh discuss the importance of trying hard, the things that prevent climbers from reaching their potential, and how insane the strength of professional climbers has become.*Patreon Bonus Content (join https://www.patreon.com/testpiece for extended cut):*- Ethan’s favorite boulders and routes- Ethan’s favorite climbing discipline- Moving to South Africa and what he misses about CaliforniaSHOW NOTES:Get coached by Ethan: https://ethanpringlecoaching.com/Join Patreon: HEREFollow us on Instagram: HEREVisit our podcast page: HERE

Boards have become a unique discipline and culture within climbing, so we created a recurring podcast focused on the latest things happening in board climbing and what it means for our sport from industry veterans and board lovers: Matt Mendes, and Joshua Horsley the host of Testpiece.*Patreon Bonus Content (join https://www.patreon.com/testpiece for extended cut):*- Matt’s craziest feats of strength- The best MoonBoard set- The best standardized boardsJoin Patreon: HEREFollow us on Instagram: HEREVisit our podcast page: HERE

Giovanni Placci keeps getting better. Despite a relatively late start to his climbing career, he’s managed to flash 9a, compete in world cups, and become a regular training partner of Adam Ondra and Jakob Schubert.Today, he and Josh sit down to discuss his unique career, his absurd training volume, and his current project, La Rage D’Adam 9b+/5.15c.*Patreon Bonus Content (join https://www.patreon.com/testpiece for extended cut):*- The secret to Adam Ondra and Jakob Schubert’s training- Will Jakob send DNA?SHOW NOTES:Gio's YouTube Channel: https://www.youtube.com/@gio.placciJoin Patreon: HEREFollow us on Instagram: HEREVisit our podcast page: HERE

This week’s episode ran a bit shorter than usual. To make it up to you, we’re including the Patreon bonus section for free!This is a recurring podcast focused on the latest things happening in climbing and what it means for our sport from industry veterans: Will Anglin, Allison Vest, Carlo Traversi, Austin Hoyt, and Joshua Horsley. Look at the Chapters for today's topics.Join Patreon: HEREFollow us on Instagram: HEREVisit our podcast page: HERE

Last November, after four years of projecting, Elias Iagnemma sent Exodia, and proposed the world’s first ever V18/9A+. The boulder has remained somewhat mysterious since then, with limited footage of it and little information on who has been trying it.Today, in Elias’s first English podcast appearance, he answers all the questions about Exodia that the climbing world has been asking for the past year.*Patreon Bonus Content (join https://www.patreon.com/testpiece for extended cut):*- Sending every MoonBoard benchmark- Elias’s approach to learning new movements and refining beta- The importance of the name, “Exodia”Join Patreon: HEREFollow us on Instagram: HEREVisit our podcast page: HERE

Boards have become a unique discipline and culture within climbing, so we created a recurring podcast focused on the latest things happening in board climbing and what it means for our sport from industry veterans and board lovers: Matt Fultz, and Joshua Horsley the host of Testpiece.SHOW NOTESGet Training Plans From Matt - https://otgstrength.com/*Patreon Bonus Content (join https://www.patreon.com/testpiece for extended cut):*- How to be comfortable on small box climbs as a bigger climber- Does climbing skill transfer to Beyblade?Join Patreon: HEREFollow us on Instagram: HEREVisit our podcast page: HERE

Austin Hoyt joins us every month for Good Temps, but after yet another season of levelling up, we had to bring him on the show to spotlight him as a guest.In this episode, Austin breaks down some of his recent sends, including Creature From The Black Lagoon V16, and tells us about his daunting V18 project.*Patreon Bonus Content (join https://www.patreon.com/testpiece for extended cut):*- How Austin's approach to climbing has evolved with his progress- How to set easy and complex bouldersJoin Patreon: HEREFollow us on Instagram: HEREVisit our podcast page: HERE

This is a recurring podcast focused on the latest things happening in climbing and what it means for our sport from industry veterans: Allison Vest, Carlo Traversi, Austin Hoyt, and Joshua Horsley. Look at the Chapters for today's topics.*Patreon Bonus Content (join https://www.patreon.com/testpiece for extended cut):*- The world’s best easy and moderate bouldersJoin Patreon: HEREFollow us on Instagram: HEREVisit our podcast page: HERE