EPISODE 8: FRED HEMMINGS: THE CHAMP, FATHER OF PRO SURFING

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In a far-ranging discussion, Shaun talks to Paul about developing his revolutionary tube riding technique at the Bay of Plenty, his beloved “pink banana” board and how the loss of his son redirected his life to spread a message of empowerment. And how he is invisible surfing on a softie.

The three legends discuss major changes to wave riding they lived through during their long and still going surfing lives. The rise of localism as lineups got more crowded and aggressive. The first concave nose. The key evolutions that led to the rise of the short board and modern tube-riding. And of course why the spirit of Aloha is the soul of surfing.

Fred joins Paul to remember their times with Duke Kahanamoku, discuss his role shaping the early pro surfing circuit and explain why surfers are the best athletes in the world.

Mike chats with Paul about who is gonna get the wave; who influenced his surfing and shaping; his experience starring in the Endless Summer and how it inspired his smuggling career. Paul and Mike discuss Phil Edwards’s impact on them.

This episode was recorded in The Chapel, Skip’s shaping room, where he chats with Paul about the art of the glide and his passion for surfing longer boards. Skip also discusses his reverence for the Polynesian roots of wave riding , Aloha spirit and environmentalism. He and Paul remember that party gone wrong where they saw someone get shot through the foot with a spear gun. Oh, and Hawaiian lunch plates are the best.

Kiernan talks with legendary style master Paul Strauch about his relationship with Duke Kahanamoku and other mentors, the Duke Surf Team, developing the Cheater Five and innovating bottom turns in big North Shore surf.

Perhaps the most dominant competitive surfer of the 1960s, Joey joins Paul to share memories of growing up surfing in Waikiki, their time together on the Duke Kahanamoku Surf Team and that time he swam the Na Pali Coast.

Paul catches up with the always-entertaining Greg Noll. They share funny stories about their pal Buffalo Keaulana, discuss surf boards, what the ocean and surfing means to them and how Greg feels about The Wave where he dropped into history

Paul talks to Randy Rarick about being enthralled by his first wave in Waikiki, making money as a kid by being the master of ding repair, and how traveling the world for waves in the 1970s inspired his vision to help create a global professional surfing association. Not to mention a thoughtful meditation on Aloha.