207. DAISY BOW ~ 'Gourmands,' 'Authenticity,' & Other Western Constructs.

Daisy Bow thinks the *G-Word* is, well, complicated. A Part-Time Assistant Professor at The New School, FIT, and Marymount Manhattan whose work centers on French food and identity, perfume, and (French) language instruction, as well as an instructor at the Fragrance Alliance, Daisy interrogates fragrance from a critical, cultural, and academic lens. Today we discuss the colonial roots behind gourmands, the case for the 'basic bitch' perfume, why reformulations are your friends, defining 'sexy' scents, and the notion of cultural appropriation in the age of globalization and transculturation.FRAGS MENTIONED:Celine: Dans Paris, Saint Germain des Pres;  Matiere Premiere Parisian Musc, ELOREA Bae Frais, Caron, Gap Dream, CK be, Dior Dune, Chanel No. 5, Debbie Gibson Electric Youth, Mugler: Angel, Alien; EM Molecule 01, Marc Jacobs EDP, Michael Kors, Frederic Malle Outrageous, d’Annam Pho Breakfast, ELOREA, J Scent, Arquiste, Ella K, BBW Warm Vanilla Sugar, Demeter: Jelly Donut, Baby Powder; Pure Instinct, Frederic Malle Saint des SaintsFOLLOW DAISY: @je_suis_daisybTAKE HER COURSE: fragrancealliancenetwork.com/products/perfume-history-y2kBOOK A SCENT STYLING SESSION WITH ME: stele.nyc/emma

All perfumes go to heaven. Heaven = the Fragrance Vault in Lake Tahoe. Jana Menard is the owner of Fragrance Vault, a one-of-a-kind perfume store in Lake Tahoe that carries niche, commercial, and incredibly hard-to-find, rare vintage perfumes (so like... everything). Today we chat about her store, how she sources and authenticates vintage, the most precious and rare gems in her collection, and her disciplined and benevolent philosophy around collecting. SHOP: fragrancevault.net | FOLLOW: @fragrance.vaultDISCOUNT!! perfumeroom10 for 10% off Fragrance Vault until April 30, 2026.SOTD: Sana Jardin Vanilla Nomad FRAGS MENTIONED:Balenciaga B. Skin, L’Interdit, Caron Infini, YSL Y, Catherine Deneuve Deneuve, Jorum Studio Elegy, Darren Alan Songe à Fleurs, ERIS Belle du Jour, BR540, Dior Sauvage EDT, Darren Alan Sea Fever, D&G Light Blue, Indult Manakara, Avon: Sweet Honesty, Lily of the Valley; Revlon Ciara, DVF Tatiana, Estée Lauder Youth Dew, Guerlain Shalimar, Chanel No 5, Ralph Lauren Lauren, YSL Paris, Maxim's de Paris, Payot Pavlova, Salvador Dali Laguna, YSL Kouros, Frederic Malle Portrait of a Lady, Initio Atomic Rose, Davidoff Cool Water, Ralph Lauren Polo, Robert Piguet Bandit, Guerlain Shalimar, Annick Goutal, Perfumer’s Workshop, Etat Libre d’Orange, L’Artisan, Shiseido Nombre Noir Pure Parfum, Beaufort Acrasia, Chanel No. 46, Femme Rochas, Prince Matchabelli: Wind Song, Queen of Georgia; Guerlain: Mitsouko, L'Heure Bleue, Shalimar; Mary Kay, Amway, Miss Dior, Nina Ricci L’Air du Temps, Victoria's Secret Rapture, Mugler Angel, Viktor & Rolf FlowerBomb, Rogue Perfumery, Les Indemodables Musc des SablesJANA IN ALLURE!BOOK AN IN-PERSON SCENT CONSULT WITH ME! stele.shop/emma

Perfumes sold in Ace Hardware AND LuckyScent?? Get you a perfumer who can do both.That's George Tedder: an IFF perfumer who specializes in home care. If you've ever wondered who's really scenting your toilet bowl cleaner (and how!), this one's for you.MY SOTD: ERIS Parfums Mother's Milk (code: PERFUMEROOM for 10% off)FRAGS MENTIONED:Hermès Terre d’Hermès, Downy Calm, Downy Unstoppables Unlimited Collection, Buff City Soap Scent Boosters, BBW Fragrance Boosters, Downy Blends Toasted Vanilla, Baccarat Rouge 540, Carolina Hererra Good Girl, Paco Rabanne Invictus, BBW Sun-drenched Linen, Clean House Vibes, IFF Sinfonide, Viktor & Rolf Spicebomb, A&F Fierce, Atelier Cologne Orange Sanguine, Dior Eau Sauvage, Diptyque: Oud Palao, Feu de Bois, Choisya, Narguilé; Dior Homme, Hermès Terre d’Hermès

Comedian, writer, and Accidental PerfumeTok King™ Brian Park is in the Perfume Room today! You likely know him from his viral TikTok series where he satirizes 'taste bros' who use consumerism in lieu of developing a personality. Vids of his like 'POV: you're on a date with a guy who has Aesop soap in his bathroom' have garnered millions of views and have platformed him to an entirely unexpected corner of the Internet - PerfumeTok. Today we chat about the persona, who inspired it, what he's actually wearing off screen, and the woes and joys that come with the territory of being deeply entrenched in an Internet niche.FOLLOW BRIAN: @itsbrianpark @middlebrowpodSOTD: Commes des Garcons Sticky CakeSMELL CLUB: ylan.eventbrite.comBOOK A PRIVATE STYLING SESSION WITH ME @ STELE: stele.nyc/emma (MARCH 22 OR 27!)*********Thank you to our sponsor: Commodity!SHOP THE ARCHIVES!https://commodityfragrances.com/products/archive-collection-discovery-kit15% OFF: code PERFUMEROOM15 now-March 17(valid for all orders $35+)*********FRAGS MENTIONED: CdG Sticky Cake, Diesel Plus Plus Feminine, Astrophil Paris Cheri, Universal Flowering: Poems One Through Twelve, Saffron Flour; Arquiste Almond Suede, Marissa Zappas Pink Bedroom, Perfumer H Ink, CdG Blackpepper, Bleu de Chanel, YSL Babycat, Le Labo: Another 13, The Matcha 26; Toskovat Inexcusable Evil, Le Labo Gaiac 10, Escentric Molecules: M01, M01 + Iris, M01 + Champaca; Le Père par Blaise Mautin, Creed Aventus Absolu, Penhaligon's Halfeti, Nasomatto Black Afgano

[PERFUME ROOM - RE-SPRITZ - original air date 5/14/24] Today’s episode is a masterclass! Fragrance legend, author, historian, taxonomist and Perfume Room fan-favorite Michael Edwards is back (!!), this time to chat about his newest book, “American Legends: The Evolution of American Fragrances.”What makes a perfume *American* in style and who are the quintessential American perfumes? What makes them legendary? What did they inspire? What does the future of perfumery look like? All that & more in this week's ep!SOTD: Quartana Beaut'AirFRAGS MENTIONED:Dior: Diorella, Eau Sauvage; Halston, Jovan Musk, CK One, Antonia’s Flowers, Elizabeth Taylor Passion, Revlon: Charlie, That Man; Estee Lauder Estee, Beautiful; Hermes Caleche, Rochas Madame Rochas, Dior Dioressence, Rochas Femme, Dior Diorella, Ralph Lauren Lauren, Guy Laroche Fidji, Norell, CK Obsession, Estee Lauder Youth Dew, Dior Poison, YSL Opium, Tuvache Jungle Gardenia, Coty Vanilla Fields, Jovan Musk, Youth Dew, Norell, Estee, Annick Goutal, L’Artisan Parfumeur, Beautiful, Diorella, Evyan White Shoulders, Robert Piguet Fracas, 4711, Roger & Gallet Jean Marie Farina Eau de Cologne, Guerlain Eau de Cologne Imperiale, Dior Eau Sauvage, Jo Malone Lime Basil & Mandarin, Elizabeth Arden Blue Grass, Old Spice, White Shoulders, Youth Dew, Carven (mistifier), Brut, Rochas Moustache, Caron Pour un Homme,  Aramis, Estee, Norell, Jovan Musk, Charlie, Halston, Giorgio, Beautiful, Passion, Ck One, Chanel No. 5, Le Labo Santal 33, Baccarat Rouge 540, CK EternityLISTEN TO MICHAEL’S FIRST EPISODE (ep. 76)ORDER AMERICAN LEGENDS: https://www.fragrancesoftheworld.com/AmericanLegends*****Thank you to our sponsor: Commodity!SHOP THE ARCHIVES!https://commodityfragrances.com/products/archive-collection-discovery-kit15% OFF: code PERFUMEROOM15 now-March 17(valid for all orders $35+)

Audrey Robinovitz is a fragrance writer, critic, Diptyque shop girl, and honestly, a perfume obsessive who matches my freak.Today we chat about everything from the difference between Olivier Pescheux's Diptyque and Olivia Giacobetti's, to the role scent plays in various religions, to our collective breaking point with fantasy accords (and so much more)! ENJOY.FOLLOW AUDREY: @foldyrhandsSUBSTACK: eatyourlipstick.substack.comFRAGS MENTIONED:Maison Margiela Lipstick On, Guerlain Insolence, L’Artisan Passage D’Enfer, Rundholz Feb 14 1912, Parfum Prissana Ma Nishtana, Dior Poison, Le Labo Santal 33, Glossier You, Diptyque Fleur de Peau, Essential Faith, Nemat Amber, Guerlain L’Heure Bleue, Mugler Angel, Diptyque: Orpheon EDP, Benjoin Boheme, Fleur de Peau, Vetyverio, Tempo, Philosykos; Frederic Malle En Passant, L’Artisan: Tea for Two, Premier Figuier; Dior Diorissimo, PHLUR Father Figure, Clue Perfumery Dandelion Butter, D.S. & Durga Debaser, Diptyque: Orpheon EDT, Kyoto, Philosykos EDT, Volutes, Chergui, L’Eau Trois; Clue Perfumery With a Candlestick, Comme des Garcons 2011, Penhaligon’s Endymion, Le Labo Santal 33, Jorum Studio: Firewater, Pony Boy, Gorseland; IUNX Talc******Thank you to our sponsor: Commodity!SHOP THE ARCHIVES!https://commodityfragrances.com/products/archive-collection-discovery-kit15% OFF: code PERFUMEROOM15 now-March 17(valid for all orders $35+)

Launched in 2024, BRUME ORPIN is a niche fragrance brand putting sustainability at the forefront of EVERYTHING they create. Every aspect of the perfume, from the outermost packaging down the juice has been painstakingly designed to be biodegradable—to the point that the BRUME ORPIN has restricted its palette to just 50 materials. Yes, only 50.It's a perfect example of of creativity born from boundary. Today, Founder Tiphaine Cogez-Cousseau shares that story.FRAGS MENTIONED:BRUME ORPIN: Odenui Extrait, Odenui, Oratoa, Dara, Theor, Leau; Balmain Ambre Gris, Guerlain Jardins de Bagatelle; BRUME ORPIN Odosman, Villa Odosman, Oratoa ******Thank you to our sponsor: Commodity!SHOP THE ARCHIVES!https://commodityfragrances.com/products/archive-collection-discovery-kit15% OFF: code PERFUMEROOM15 now-March 17 (valid for all orders $35+)

HAPPY 200 TO US! Almost one whole year later, enjoy this truncated live recording of the magic that is: SMELLS LIKE LOVE ~ the only dating show where the nose does the picking!With special presentation by dsm-firmenich's Justin Welch. APPLY TO BE A DATER &/OR GET SMELLS LIKE LOVE TIX HERE: linktr.ee/emmavern& use code 'perfume' for $20 tickets!!! V-DAY 9:30P @ CAVEAT - SEE U THERE!

MY TOP 20 FAVE LAUNCHES/DISCOVERIES OF 2025!!! with highly requested/repeat award show co-host: my mom, Karen! (Most of these shouldn't surprise you because I have been talking about them all year.)FOR TIX TO SMELLS LIKE LOVE/TO APPLY TO BE A DATER: linktr.ee/emmavernFRAGS MENTIONED:Courreges Hyper Musc, EM Molecule 01 + Iris, Nobile 1942 Il Colore del Vento, Roja Isola Blu, Ex Nihilo Spiky Muse, Lancôme La Vie Est Belle L’Elixir, La Vie Est Belle; Giardini di Toscano Celeste, Hilde Soliani Fraaagola Saalaaata, Meo Fusciuni Viole Nere, Ibrahim Fuhaid Orrisilla, Cartier La Panthere (Les Gouttes de Parfum), Param Sara The Mandala, Anti: Rosa Antiqua, Duke’s Carpet;Thom Browne Vetyver & Brut, Vyrao Georgette, Voyager Flashbulb, Villa Erbatium Mossy Glen, Harlem Candle Co. Eartha, Le Pere, Fzotic Deixis, Spoturno 1921(NOTE - there were many other frags I loved that for interest of time and/or sourcing issues, didn't make this episode! As in years prior, if could do a top 50, I absolutely would!)

In 2018, Sy Truong began studying (and teaching himself) perfumery. Six years later, he's the recipient of an Art & Olfaction Award, the founder and perfumer behind the internationally-celebrated brand Sylhouette Parfums, the perfumer of record for TOOUCH perfumes, and is shaping the emerging landscape of Vietnamese niche perfumery.Today, we chat about the perfume book that changed his entire life, his quest to embody his art, his self-image and how it shapes his style and aesthetic, and Sy shares the driving force behind all he does (in my words, not his) that we could all do a bit more of in 2026: ~LET UR HATERS BE UR MOTIVATORS!~linktr.ee/emmavernGET SMELLS LIKE LOVE TIX!SINGLE NEW YORKERS CLICK HERE!JAN SMELL CLUB TIX: coming v soon!!FRAGS MENTIONED:Amouage Jubilation 40 (SOTD), Stora Skuggan Azalai, Sylhouette: Poème Noire, Molotov Cocktail; Mugler Alien, Coco Chanel, Toouch: Smoky Graze, Heritage Nuzzle; Serge Lutens Santal Majuscule, ONE DAY