182. RODRIGO FLORES-ROUX ~ What Does 2025 Smell Like? (According to a World-Renowned Perfumer.)

Givaudan VP Perfumer Rodrigo Flores-Roux generously returns to the Perfume Room to offer a definitive roadmap to the past, present, and future of perfume. Bookmark this ep. You'll come back to it. Rodrigo is a fragrance genealogist of sorts, tracing your favorite perfumes’ parents, grandparents, and great-grandparents. He offers a rare perfumer's POV on the current landscape: What’s trending? Why? What even qualifies as a trend? Should we care? And what's happening in the world today that will shape how fragrance smells tomorrow?WATCH THE FLORSTALGIA PANEL (coming this Fri)LISTEN TO EP. 136 (linked below)THANK YOU TO THIS MONTH'S SPONSOR THE RACONTEUR! 10% off full bottles of The Raconteur @ Stéle: code 'emma10'FRAGS MENTIONED:Sol de Janeiro, Phlur, Burberry Goddess, 27 87 Hakuna Matata, Mary Kay Velocity, Marc Jacobs Daisy Wild, Vacation Inc, Arquiste Tropical, Cire Trudon Merida, ARQUISTE Esencia de El Palacio Guayabos, Chanel No. 5, Guerlain Shalimar, Lanvin Arpège, Schiaparelli Shocking, Robert Piguet Bandit, Balmain Vent Vert, Carven Ma Griffe, Givenchy L’Interdit, Nina Ricci L’Air du Temps, Madame Rochas, Rabanne Calandre, Eau de Lancome, Eau de Patou, Eau de Guerlain, Estée Lauder Estée Super, Revlon Charlie, YSL Opium, Estée Lauder Youth Dew, Balenciaga Prelude, Estée Lauder Cinnabar, Fendi, Giorgio, Dior Poison, Ralph Lauren Polo, Guy Laroche Drakkar Noir, Davidoff Cool Water, New West, Calvin Klein Escape, Issey Miyake L’Eau D’Issey, Mugler Angel, Tom Ford Oud Wood, Donna Karan Black Cashmere, Clinique Happy, Isabell Calla, Ungaro Diva, Florstalgia: Violet, Carnation; YSL Paris, Eauso Vert Fruto Oscuro, Le Galion Bourrasque, Thom Browne: Vetyver & Brut, Vetyver & Rose; Xinu: OroNardo, Copala; ARQUISTE: A Grove By The Sea, Tropical; Roberto Greco Porter Sa Peau

Cécile Zarokian is one of the greatest independent perfumers of all time, but she wasn’t always independent, and she hadn’t always planned on becoming a perfumer, either. Today, she’s in the Perfume Room sharing how she’s redefined the rules of the game, turned her greatest challenges into strengths, and found the CZP edge—her proverbial captive if you will—that helps her compete with (and win against) the industry’s biggest players.FRAGS MENTIONED:Yves Rocher, Lancome Magie Noir, Acqua di Parma, Chloe, Amouage Epic Woman, Granado Bossa, Electimuss Vanilla Edesia, Amouage Attar collection, Nishani AniSOTD: St. Rose Juliet in WhiteThank you to this month's sponsor ⁠The Raconteur⁠! emma10 for 10% off Raconteur bottles @ ⁠Stele⁠ (now - 7/31)SUBSCRIBE: perfumeroom.substack.com for Smell Club updates!FOLLOW CÉCILE:IG: @cecilezarokianparfumeurTikTok: @cecilezarokian

IMAGINE THIS: You're a partner at one of the world's top law firms. It's what you've worked towards your entire career. Would you walk away from it all for the chance to chase your true creative calling? Craig Andrade, founder of Aussie niche fragrance brand, The Raconteur, did. This is his story.10% LISTENER DISCOUNT! ⁠stele.nyc⁠ | code: emma10(valid (on The Raconteur full bottles only) through end of July)FRAGS MENTIONED:The Raconteur: Raconteur 2X, No Tell Motel; TLY 5755, Raconteur: KILLR VANILLR, Pavlova Kasanova, Miss Macadamia, Lord Lamington, Daintree Rain TeaTHANK YOU TO THIS MONTH'S SPONSOR, THE RACONTEUR!!!Spotify listeners: vote in poll for which scent most intrigues you (I will do a full review on the top-voted scent)!DISCLAIMER: This episode’s guest is also this month’s sponsor. The sponsorship was arranged after the guest was booked. Sponsorships have no bearing on editorial content. While this episode includes paid promotional content for the sponsor’s products, all opinions expressed are entirely my own.

The Alloy Studio is an experimental, Black, queer-owned fragrance brand blending glamour with grit. Created by romantic and business partners Bryson Ammons (the perfumer) and Eddie Hodges (the creative director), their fragrances dare and delight with notes like pineapple popsicle, sativa, and 'trashy perfume.' This week, we get the inside scoop on the brand's silver/gold aesthetic, Bryson’s independent but community-rooted path to perfumery, and some ACTUAL piping-hot takes. WATCH THE FULL VID EP LATER THIS WEEK ONLY ON SUBSTACK!FOLLOW: @thealloystudio @brysonammons @by.exhSHOP: stele.shopSOTD: Phlur Vanilla NectarFRAGS MENTIONED:Phlur Vanilla Nectar*, Comptoir Sud Pacifique: Vanille Banane*, Vanille Abricot; Profumum Roma Dulcis in Fundo, The Alloy Studio: Idyllic, Silver Haze, Kinesis; Perry Ellis Bold Red, Glossier You, Aesop Rozu, Maison Crivelli Ambre Chromatique, Frederic Malle Acne Studios, Versace Blue, The Alloy Studio Hypnotic Nectar, Boy Smells, Davidoff Cool Water, Baccarat, Santal 33, Bod Man, Perry Ellis 360 Black, Versace The Dreamer, The Alloy Studio: Hypnotic Nectar, Kinesis; Aesop Gloam, Rozu (* = gifted in PR)Article mentioned: The Sweet Smell of Diversity

A lot can happen in a year. Since opening its Williamsburg doors last summer, Stéle has added a second location, dropped 100(!) fragrances in a single day, and moonlights as Nolita's hottest millennial nightclub (stay tuned for pt. 2: the Pacha-to-Stéle Fri night pipeline).Despite the (well-deserved) buzz, founders Jake Levy and Matt Belanger remain steadfast in their commitment to artisanal, small-batch, offbeat scents.So how did they do it? What makes a Stéle scent? What were the roses and thorns on the way to the top? And most importantly, what's next? All ahead in this week's ep!PLUS: A CAN’T-MISS, JUICY ANNOUNCEMENT THAT HAS BEEN A REALLY HARD SECRET TO KEEP!!! (more details coming later this week!!!)FOLLOW: stelenewyorkSHOP: stele.shopFULL VIDEO EPISODE: live on Substack this FridaySMELL CLUB TIX: aromaticherbssmellclub.eventbrite.comFRAGS MENTIONED: Atelier Materi Cedre Figalia*, Carl Kling Fig Nuit, Naomi Goodsir Iris Cendre, Clue Perfumery Dandelion Butter, January Scent Project, Clue Perfumery, Oddity, Perfumer H Dandelion, Maison d'Etto, Raconteur, Ormaie, Stora Skuggan, Le PERE par Blaise Mautin, Le Labo Santal 33, Britney Spears, The Raconteur: No Tell Motel, Daintree Rain Tea, Cloud 9 Juice, Killr Vanillr; Arquiste Grove by the Sea, Circle of Lim Lost Generation, Toskovat Inexcusable Evil, Sylhouette Molotov Cocktail, Arquiste Tropical, Tada Paradiso, Pigmentarium: Murmur, Erotikon, Paradiso;  Wolf Brothers Wolf, Andrea Maack Muse, Clue Perfumery Dandelion Butter* = gifted in PR

My perfume hot takes, a catch-up with Principal Perfumer Sabine de Tscharner about her newest creation for Laundry Sauce, Mojave Peach, and your hotline Qs answered, ALL IN ONE EP!Thank you to our sponsor Laundry Sauce!Use code perfumeroom15 to get 15% off any Laundry Sauce order! (valid through Aug 9, 2025)FRAGS MENTIONED:Amouage Existence*, L’Artisan Passage D’Enfer, CdG Incense Zagorsk, Kyoto; Frederic Malle Portrait of a Lady, Mojave Peach, Guerlain Mitsouko, Florstalgia Iris*, Guerlain Vol de Nuit, Chanel No. 19, DS&D IDK What, Aesop: Hwyl, Tacit; MAISON d'ETTO Macanudo, Escentric Molecules Molecule 01, Perfumer H: Leather, Moss, Musk; Arquiste Tropical, Voyages Imaginaires Le Grand Jeu, Ourside Nostalgia, Sana Jardin Berber Blonde, Fulton & Roark Thousand Palms, Carolina Herrera, Good Girl, Mizensir Tres There, Ambre Magique, Carthusia Terra Mia, Thameen Peregrina, Marissa Zappas Annabel’s Birthday Cake

A film about one man's obsessive quest to track down an orris perfume—starring Tim Heidecker, Marta Pozzan, Julia Fox, Kevin Kline, Fisher Stevens, and Gina Gershon (!!)—premieres next week at Tribeca.This week, I sit down with the visionary behind it all: filmmaker Charlotte "Charlie" Ercoli.Charlie is no newcomer to the world of perfume. She comes from a family of perfumers, and her earliest directing gigs were all perfume ads! This episode is a full-sensory treat and ends with us literally smelling a brick of orris. Enjoy.FIOR DI LATTE TIX: https://tribecafilm.com/films/fior-di-latte-2025FOLLOW: @fiordilattefilm @charlotte.ercoliFRAGS MENTIONED: Arquiste Tropical (SOTD), Tom Ford Champaca Absolute, Superfume, Regime des Fleurs, DS&D Bistro Waters, Chloe EDP, biche, D&G Fefe, Memoire Liquide, Spezierie Palazza Vecchio

Two perfumeheads walk into a bar and... Liz Renstrom—Perfume Room regular, photographer of our generation, and the genius behind @basenote_bitch (the ultimate fragrance nostalgia account)—dropped by my apartment last week with some shiny new gems in her collection and then naturally, raided my (newly organized!) perfume wardrobe. Be a fly on the wall for our chaotic good nez-à-nez.FOLLOW: @basenote_bitch @elizabethrenstromFRAGS MENTIONED:Oriza L. Legrand: Relique D’Amour, Reve D’Ossian; Serge Lutens Santal Majascule, Xinu Copala, Diptyque Benjoin Boheme, Aedes Copal Azur, Xinu: FlordeMusgo (hand cream), Monstera; Costa Brazil Kaya Jungle Firming Oil, SOMA Ayurvedic Jasmine Oil, Olo Dark Wave, Atelier des Ors Lune Feline, Commodity Orris, Thom Browne Vetyver & Brut, Society de la Rossi (wine), L'Entropiste Jodhpur 6AM, Officine Universelle Buly Patate Douce des Caraïbes et Carotte d’Afghanistan, Granado Violeta, The Perfumer's Story Sequoia Wood, Le Pere, Lancome LVEB L’Elixir, St. Rose Juliet in White, Le Pere, Jovoy Psychedelique, Profumum Patchouly, Oriza L. Legrand Horizon, Mad et Len: Graphite, Humus; Perfumer H: Ink, Moss; Tsu Lange Yor Sala, L'Entropiste Jodhpur 6AM, Jovoy Remember Me, Guerlain Angelique Noire, Officine Universelle Buly Patate Douce des Caraïbes et Carotte d’Afghanistan, Granado Violeta, Firmamento Sileno Cheloni, Diptyque: Orpheon, L’Ombre Dans L'Eau, Baies; Ex Nihilo Spiky Muse, Astier des Villages Mantes La Jolie, Cire Trudon Abd El Kader, Fischersund 101, Glossier You, Glossier Doux, L’Artisan: Musc Amarante, Vetiver Ecarlate, L’Abysssae, Tea for TwoSHOP THIS MONTH'S SPONSOR GOLDFIELD & BANKS!10% off LuckyScent: perfumeroom10 (valid for orders $40+)

In December 2022, Christina Basias-Androulakis (a PhD in digital education) filmed and posted a Tiktok of her wife Alexis Androulakis (a beauty product developer) in Sephora, evaluating the new Make Up By Mario Skin Foundation.That video went viral, and @thelipsticklesbians were off.1.7M followers later, today the duo continues to challenge and shape the way consumers, influencers, marketers, and chemists alike think, talk, and know about beauty.That's the @thelipsticklesbians origin tale...Did you know that Christina and Alexis's begins with fragrance??!Today's ep is full of personal stories, beauty insights and advice, the full scoop on their new beauty evaluation course, LLAB, and some important life lessons along the way!FOLLOW: @thelipsticklesbiansCHECK OUT LLAB: letslearnaboutbeauty.comFRAGS MENTIONED:St. Rose Juliet in White (SOTD), Burberry London, JHAG Not A Perfume, Byredo Blanche, Sol De Janeiro, Kayali, Daise, BBW, Aesop, Loewe, Method, Frenshe, Fine'ry, Solo Loewe Ella, Britney Spears Curious, Giorgio, Bvlgari Tygar, Amouage Guidance 46, Le Labo Another 13, Glossier You, Aesop Eleos, MFK A La Rose, Diptyque Do Son, Marc Jacobs EDP, Le Labo: Rose 31, The Noir 29; Aesop: Ouranon, [meant Aurner], Marrakech; Hermes Eau des Merveilles, Amouage Guidance 46, Shalimar, Dior Poison, Estee Lauder Youth Dew, Chanel No. 5, Balmain Rouge, Kayali Yum Pistachio Gelato, Laura Mercier Eaux Gourmandes, Eau de Space The Smell of Space, Le Labo Santal 33, Relevant 13 StemsProducts Mentioned:Makeup Forever Superboost Lightweight Moisturizing Skin Tint, Estee Lauder Double Wear, Mac Ruby Woo, Mac Studio Fix, Danessa Myricks eyeshadow, Prada Pradalines eyeliner, Victoria Beckham Satin Kajal eyelinerJASMINE SMELL CLUB: jasminesmellclub.eventbrite.comThanks to this month's sponsor Goldfield & Banks! Try Pacific Rock Flower on luckyscent.com (get 10% off w/ code perfumeroom10)

A 150-year-old beauty brand with over 1,000 SKUs, Granado might be new to US market, but in Brazil, it's a household name. This week, I chat with CMO Sissi Freeman about the brand’s uniquely Brazilian identity, its recent global fragrance boom, what it’s like running this legacy brand in lock step with her father (CEO Christopher Freeman), and the smells most special to Brazilians.SOTD: The Body Shop Full IrisFRAGS MENTIONED:Granado: Iris, Esplendor, Nostalgia, Oasis, Oud, Carioca, Epoque Tropical, Bossa, Citrus Brasilis; CKOne, Carolina Herrera 212, Issey Miyake, LeLi Scents, Granado: Gardenia, Magnolia, Suzette, Folha Imperial, Folha de Laranjeira, Limão Taiti & Neroli; Robert Piguet Fracas, Dior PoisonJASMINE SMELL CLUB: jasminesmellclub.eventbrite.comRSVP HERE FOR STELE FLORSTALGIAThanks to this month's sponsor Goldfield & Banks! Try Pacific Rock Flower on luckyscent.com (get 10% off w/ code perfumeroom10)