Historically Thinking podcast

Picky: Helen Zoe Veit on How American Children Became the Fussiest Eaters in History

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Apology: Helen Veit’s audio has a lot of “ducking”, in which a word or multiple words were clipped. This happened during the recording, and cannot be fixed in the audio edit. We'll work hard to make sure this never happens again.

In nineteenth-century America, cookbook authors, concerned doctors, and food reformers believed that children had a problem with food. Children, reformers worried, would “eat anything and everything.” If they were to grow into healthy adults, they needed a special diet—“children’s food”—which meant that for the first time in human history children would have to eat differently from everyone else.

That moment was one step along a path that my guest Helen Zoe Veit traces in her new book Picky: How American Children Became the Fussiest Eaters in History. Beginning in a mid-nineteenth century world in which children routinely ate oysters, organ meats, sauerkraut, and richly spiced dishes alongside adults, she carries the story forward to our own moment—an era of childhood obesity, nutritional anxiety, supermarket abundance, and the widespread assumption that children are “food rejectors by nature.” But as Veit argues, mass childhood pickiness is not deeply biological. It is overwhelmingly cultural. And culture, unlike biology, can change.

Helen Zoe Veit is Associate Professor of History at Michigan State University. She specializes in American food history of the nineteenth and twentieth centuries and is the author and editor of numerous works on food, morality, and culture. Picky is her latest book.

Chapters

0:00 - Introduction

3:02 - 19th Century Children Ate Everything

5:30 - Mark Twain and Edith Wharton's Childhoods

14:02 - Why Doctors Were Concerned

24:20 - The First Signs of Pickiness in the 1930s

33:18 - Benjamin Spock and Clara Davis

45:51 - The Supermarket Revolution

52:16 - Parental Guilt and Contradictory Advice

1:00:15 - Solutions and Hope for Change

1:07:59 - Why Food History Matters

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