Breaking Beta | The Science of Climbing podcast

Does Strength Training Help Prevent Shoulder Injuries in Climbers?

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In this episode, Kris and Paul take a look at three papers dealing with the shoulder health of climbers:

Application of closed kinematic chain exercises with eccentric and strength exercises for the shoulder injuries prevention in student rock climbers: a randomized controlled trial

Authored by Serhii Kozin, Marian Cretu, Zhanneta Kozina, Andrii Chernozub, Olena Ryepko, Tetiana Shepelenko, Iryna Sobko, and Mariia Oleksiuk; published in the Acta of Bioengineering and Biomechanics in January, 2021.

&

Shoulder pathology on magnetic resonance imaging in asymptomatic elite-level rock climbers

Authored by Joseph D. Cooper, Max N. Seiter, Joseph J. Ruzbarsky, Ricky Poulton, Grant J. Dornan, Eric K. Fitzcharles, Charles P. Ho, and Thomas R. Hackett; published in The Orthopaedic Journal of Sports Medicine in February, 2022.

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Shoulder girdle strength and finger flexor strength in prediction of performance in female rock climbers

Authored by Jan Kodejška and Jiří Baláš; published in Studia sportiva in 2016.

 

They’ll attempt to determine whether or not strength training really is a viable method for preventing shoulder injuries, and if shoulder health can be a reliable indicator of climbing performance in women.

 

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