Coach Joy Black: Groundbreaking Study on Climbing While Pregnant, Busy Climber Tips, and My Pelvic Floor

Break through plateaus, stay consistent, and make every session count with a free 14-day trial of Intentional Climber. https://www.thestruggleclimbingshow.com/intentional   Join the email list to get a FREE private finger training clinic with Dr. Tyler Nelson (normally $15) www.thestruggleclimbingshow.com/strong   Support the Show on Patreon Get access to all Pro Clinics, bonus episodes, and more. https://www.patreon.com/thestruggleclimbingshow   Climbing Coach Joy Black joins to discuss: How to make a 30-min session count Removing friction to start workouts faster Being strong doesn’t mean being good Her groundbreaking study on climbing while pregnant How dangerous is falling while pregnant? Helpful signs to know when to end a session Postpartum training and climbing I HAVE A PELVIC FLOOR (and so do you) Listener Q&A   Follow joy on IG, @climbingwithjoy, and email her for a copy of the study: [email protected] - BIG THANKS TO THE AMAZING SPONSORS OF THE STRUGGLE WHO LOVE ROCK CLIMBING AS MUCH AS YOU DO: PhysiVantage: the official climbing-nutrition sponsor of The Struggle. Train harder, recover faster, and feel better than ever. I love all their stuff! Use code STRUGGLE15 at checkout for 15% off your full-priced nutrition order. Arc’teryx: Inspired by and tested in the Coast Mountains of BC, Arc’teryx makes gear to go the distance! If you’re out adventuring in the elements, Arc’teryx has got you covered. Shop their full collection at Arcteryx.com  Intentional Climber: Stop spinning your wheels. Start making real progress. Plan smarter, train harder, and stay consistent with world-class coaching plans, mindset tools, and powerful analytics built specifically for climbers. Download on Google Play or the App Store and use code STRUGGLE to unlock Kris Hampton’s 6-week Stronger Fingers program. And check out ALL the show’s awesome sponsors and exclusive deals at thestruggleclimbingshow.com/deals - Here are some AI generated show notes (hopefully the robots got it right) 00:00 Why This Paper Matters 00:48 Meet Joy Black 05:01 Small Talk and Cold Plunges 08:07 Parenting and Training Consistency 13:08 Beating Perfectionism 16:56 Joy’s Current Struggle 21:12 Coaching Pregnant Climbers 24:52 Sponsor Break 27:45 Replacing Opinion With Data 33:14 Study Methods and Fall Risk 36:24 Risk Rates In Context 37:29 Talking With Providers 40:01 Bouldering Falls Breakdown 41:38 How Climbers Self Modify 44:03 Misconceptions About Falling 45:50 Miscarriage And Birth Outcomes 46:48 Natural Taper And Guardrails 50:45 Pregnancy Not Performance Season 54:12 Intentional Climber Ad Break 56:04 Mental Health Benefits 58:18 Relaxin And Finger Training 01:03:21 Defining Postpartum Timeline 01:06:13 Breastfeeding Vs Recovery 01:08:11 Pelvic Floor Explained 01:12:55 Postpartum Pelvic Floor Rehab 01:16:04 Pelvic Floor Progression 01:17:04 Coaching Lessons for All 01:19:41 Consistency and Intentional Training 01:20:55 Finger Training Focus 01:22:31 Overcoming Iso Repeaters Setup 01:25:52 Overhead vs Ground Repeaters 01:28:32 Stacking Sessions and Block Pulls 01:30:22 Rapid Fire Listener Q&A 01:30:36 Kids at the Gym Tips 01:32:53 Caffeine During Pregnancy 01:34:05 Two Years Postpartum Rebuild 01:37:41 Where to Find Joy 01:39:06 Wrap Up and Next Pro Clinic 01:41:11 Host Updates and Upcoming Events 01:47:48 Final Thanks and Sign Off - Shoutout to Kent Olmstead, Michael Martin, and Sam Hancock for supporting at the Hero level on Patreon. So mega!  - Follow along on Instagram and YouTube: @thestruggleclimbingshow  - This show is produced and hosted by Ryan Devlin, and edited by Glen Walker. The Struggle is carbon-neutral in partnership with The Honnold Foundation and is a proud member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective, a diverse group of the best, most impactful podcasts in the outdoor industry. And now here are some buzzwords to help the almighty algorithm get this show in front of people who love to climb: rock climbing, rock climber, climbing, climber, bouldering, sport climbing, gym climbing, how to rock climb, donuts are amazing. Okay, whew, that’s done. But hey, if you’re a human that’s actually reading this, and if you love this show (and love to climb) would you think about sharing this episode with a climber friend of yours? And shout it out on your socials? I’ll send you a sticker for doing it. Just shoot me a message on IG – thanks so much!

Break through plateaus, stay consistent, and make every session count with a free 14-day trial of Intentional Climber. https://www.thestruggleclimbingshow.com/intentional   Support the Show on Patreon Get access to all Pro Clinics, bonus episodes, and more. https://www.patreon.com/thestruggleclimbingshow   - Weekend Warrior and badass adventurer Eddie Taylor explores: How to plan a first expedition as a weekend warrior What to do when the plan goes sideways Dealing with killer mosquitoes Trundling while climbing Training hard on a busy schedule Participating in the SCARPA Athlete Mentorship Initiative How he raised funds for his Everest expedition Why onsighting is the way   Learn more about the SAMI program here: https://us.scarpa.com/pages/scarpa-athlete-mentorship-initiative-sami   - BIG THANKS TO THE AMAZING SPONSORS OF THE STRUGGLE WHO LOVE ROCK CLIMBING AS MUCH AS YOU DO: PhysiVantage: the official climbing-nutrition sponsor of The Struggle. Train harder, recover faster, and feel better than ever. I love all their stuff! Use code STRUGGLE15 at checkout for 15% off your full-priced nutrition order. SCARPA: The best climbing shoes, trail runners, and hikers in the game! Score yourself a free SCARPA x STRUGGLE hat when you use code STRUGGLE at checkout at SCARPA.com. SCARPA, No Place Too Far. Arc’teryx: Inspired by and tested in the Coast Mountains of BC, Arc’teryx makes gear to go the distance! If you’re out adventuring in the elements, Arc’teryx has got you covered. Shop their full collection at Arcteryx.com  And check out ALL the show’s awesome sponsors and exclusive deals at thestruggleclimbingshow.com/deals   - Shoutout to Kent Olmstead, Michael Martin, and Sam Hancock for supporting at the Hero level on Patreon. So mega!  - Here are some AI generated show notes (hopefully the robots got it right) 00:00 Midnight Pre Climb Panic 00:23 Sendtember Welcome 01:10 Meet Eddie Taylor 02:38 Weekend Warrior Resume 04:55 Catching Up Dad Life 06:03 Family Climbing Trip Beta 07:17 Why The Cirque 08:30 Getting There Logistics 09:43 What Makes It Unique 11:59 Endless Daylight Window 12:58 Training And Prep Reality 14:22 The Expedition Team 15:32 Goals And Route Wish List 17:22 Parenting Time Tradeoffs 18:54 Sponsor Break Scarpa 20:19 Sponsor Break Physiovantage 22:30 Trip Length Breakdown 23:24 Planning And Packing Lessons 27:29 The Brutal Mosquito Hike 29:16 Fairy Meadows Vibe 30:39 Right Into The Storm Warmup 31:43 Lotus Flower Tower Push 35:17 Summit Glow And Rappel 36:10 Rest Days and Forecast 37:46 Goals Shift After Storms 38:26 Power of Silence Attempt 40:29 Bailing and Regrets 41:43 Arc'teryx Gear Break 43:08 Hawaiian Shirts and Meaning 45:30 Parenting and Next Trips 47:46 Training Split and Simul Mileage 49:12 Freerider Boulder and Board Power 53:22 Scarpa SAMI Mentorship 58:13 Funding Everest Lessons 01:03:57 Fall Goals and Yosemite Plans 01:07:13 Ground Up Adventure Ethic 01:09:01 Wrap Up and Listener Takeaways 01:10:44 SAMI Links and Bonus Episode 01:13:05 Host Training and Horseshoe Hell 01:17:33 Final Thanks and Sign Off - Follow along on Instagram @thestruggleclimbingshow and YouTube /@thestruggleclimbingshow - The Struggle is carbon-neutral in partnership with The Honnold Foundation, whose mission is to promote solar energy for a more equitable world. - This show is produced and hosted by Ryan Devlin, and edited by Glen Walker. The Struggle is a proud member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective, a diverse group of the best, most impactful podcasts in the outdoor industry. - The struggle makes us stronger! I hope your training and climbing are going great.  - And now here are some buzzwords to help the almighty algorithm get this show in front of people who love to climb: rock climbing, rock climber, climbing, climber, bouldering, sport climbing, gym climbing, how to rock climb, donuts are amazing. Okay, whew, that’s done. But hey, if you’re a human that’s actually reading this, and if you love this show (and love to climb) would you think about sharing this episode with a climber friend of yours? And shout it out on your socials? I’ll send you a sticker for doing it. Just shoot me a message on IG – thanks so much! 

Break through plateaus, stay consistent, and make every session count with a free 14-day trial of Intentional Climber. https://www.thestruggleclimbingshow.com/intentional   Support the Show on Patreon Get access to all Pro Clinics, bonus episodes, and more. https://www.patreon.com/thestruggleclimbingshow   - Michaela Kiersch: Her Latest 5.15a (9a+) Ascent, Grade Debates, Power Endurance Training, and Reel Rock   The story behind her FA of Mad Lib (9a / 5.14d) Sending Dolby Surround (9a+ / 5.15a) after a hold broke Trading beta with Will Bosi Taking her strength and power endurance to a new level Handling send pressure on a limit project The challenge of grading the hardest climbs A case for doing easier volume The most efficient way to build endurance Being featured in Reel Rock - BIG THANKS TO THE AMAZING SPONSORS OF THE STRUGGLE WHO LOVE ROCK CLIMBING AS MUCH AS YOU DO: PhysiVantage: the official climbing-nutrition sponsor of The Struggle. Train harder, recover faster, and feel better than ever. I love all their stuff! Use code STRUGGLE15 at checkout for 15% off your full-priced nutrition order. Arc’teryx: Inspired by and tested in the Coast Mountains of BC, Arc’teryx makes gear to go the distance! If you’re out adventuring in the elements, Arc’teryx has got you covered. Shop their full collection at Arcteryx.com Intentional Climber: Stop spinning your wheels. Start making real progress. Plan smarter, train harder, and stay consistent with world-class coaching plans, mindset tools, and powerful analytics built specifically for climbers. Download on Google Play or the App Store and use code STRUGGLE to unlock Kris Hampton’s 6-week Stronger Fingers program. And check out ALL the show’s awesome sponsors and exclusive deals at thestruggleclimbingshow.com/deals   - Shoutout to Aiden Schlatter, Michael Martin, and Kent Olmstead for supporting at the Hero level on Patreon. So mega!  - Here are some AI generated show notes (hopefully the robots got it right) 00:00 Pressure at the Limit 00:24 Mikaela Returns 01:27 Big Sends Preview 04:03 Lyme Disease Detour 07:10 Catching Up and Moving 08:50 Vermont Bouldering Tear 09:53 Madlib First Ascent 15:22 Jaws and Size Beta 16:25 Dolby Surround Backstory 19:04 Two Months on Dolby 21:44 Sponsor Break 24:41 Training for Dolby 27:08 Send Day Mindset 32:50 Grading and Consensus 35:50 Grades Versus Inspiration 39:20 Breakthrough Grades Memories 42:21 Colorado Plans And Technique 44:58 Tactics And Smart Volume 45:55 Intentional Climber App 47:47 Anti Style And Beta Sharing 50:34 Training For Route Season 51:48 Endurance Sessions Explained 55:22 Madness Cave Prep Tips 58:32 Mindset Journaling Progress 01:02:13 Real Rock Feature Reveal 01:06:46 Bonus Episode And Patreon 01:11:00 Host Red Session Update 01:16:18 Thanks Sponsors And Wrap - Follow along on Instagram @thestruggleclimbingshow and YouTube /@thestruggleclimbingshow - The Struggle is carbon-neutral in partnership with The Honnold Foundation, whose mission is to promote solar energy for a more equitable world. - This show is produced and hosted by Ryan Devlin, and edited by Glen Walker. The Struggle is a proud member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective, a diverse group of the best, most impactful podcasts in the outdoor industry. - The struggle makes us stronger! I hope your training and climbing are going great.  - And now here are some buzzwords to help the almighty algorithm get this show in front of people who love to climb: rock climbing, rock climber, climbing, climber, bouldering, sport climbing, gym climbing, how to rock climb, donuts are amazing. Okay, whew, that’s done. But hey, if you’re a human that’s actually reading this, and if you love this show (and love to climb) would you think about sharing this episode with a climber friend of yours? And shout it out on your socials? I’ll send you a sticker for doing it. Just shoot me a message on IG – thanks so much! 

Casually reflecting on my training, performance, and experimentation for the month, including: Recap of August goals (hits and misses) Struggling like crazy with the new training load How I achieved 18% more completed workouts Squamish recap Getting on the fall 12c projie for the first time Technology I'm using to hack my training Can a vegetarian use collagen? September goals   Shoutout to Aiden Schlatter, Michael Martin, and Kent Olmstead for supporting at the Hero level on Patreon. So mega!   Intentional Climber: Stop spinning your wheels. Start making real progress. Plan smarter, train harder, and stay consistent with world-class coaching plans, mindset tools, and powerful analytics built specifically for climbers. Download on Google Play or the App Store and use code STRUGGLE to unlock Kris Hampton’s 6-week Stronger Fingers program.   I hope your training and climbing are going great! 

Break through plateaus, stay consistent, and make every session count with a free 14-day trial of Intentional Climber. https://www.thestruggleclimbingshow.com/intentional   Support the Show on Patreon Get access to all Pro Clinics, bonus episodes, and more. https://www.patreon.com/thestruggleclimbingshow   - Jonathan Siegrist, Alannah Yip, Mike Foley, and Tyler Thompson sit down at the Arc'teryx Academy to explore: Memorable climbing experiences (and epics) in Squamish The process of athlete-designer collaboration for gear design The future of hard sport climbing When will we see a 5.15d (9c) repeat or 5.16a (9c+) FA Why America is falling behind on hard sport climbing What went into Arc'teryx's brand new sport harness, the Lithos SL Gates in or out - BIG THANKS TO THE AMAZING SPONSORS OF THE STRUGGLE WHO LOVE ROCK CLIMBING AS MUCH AS YOU DO: Arc’teryx: Check out the new Lithos SL harness; the lightest and most comfortable harness I've ever tied into. Inspired by and tested in the Coast Mountains of BC, Arc’teryx makes gear to go the distance! Shop their full collection at Arcteryx.com  Intentional Climber: Plan smarter, train harder, and stay consistent with world-class coaching plans, mindset tools, and powerful analytics built specifically for busy climbers. Download on Google Play or the App Store and use code STRUGGLE to unlock Kris Hampton’s 6-week Stronger Fingers program. And check out ALL the show’s awesome sponsors and exclusive deals at thestruggleclimbingshow.com/deals   - Shoutout to Aiden Schlatter, Michael Martin, and Kent Olmstead for supporting at the Hero level on Patreon. So mega!  - Here are some AI generated show notes (hopefully the robots got it right): 00:00 Intro 00:24 Ryan Returns From Squamish 01:10 Meet The Panel 02:18 Puppy Distraction 04:47 Live Show Kickoff 04:59 Enormocast Origins 06:23 Old School Harnesses 10:03 Suffering And Progress 11:41 Alannah First Gear Story 13:53 Mike Foley Squamish Intro 15:34 Designing Lithos SL 19:31 Mike Path To Arc'teryx 21:34 Harness Giveaway Moment 22:41 Future Of Sport Climbing 25:13 Non Gendered Fit System 29:31 Bring Out Tyler And J Star 31:00 Clinic And First Leads 32:11 Squamish Memories Grand Wall 35:41 Squamish Epic Stories 37:49 Harness Design Testing 41:57 Minimalist Sport Rack 46:06 Future of Hard Climbing 52:15 Route Development Debate 54:07 Audience Q and Harnesses 59:22 Squamish Trip Recap 01:00:46 Bouldering and Slab Lessons 01:05:10 Multi Pitch Humble Pie 01:09:23 Sport Day and Film Night 01:12:04 Fun Over Grades 01:13:46 Thanks and Wrap Up   - Follow along on Instagram @thestruggleclimbingshow and YouTube /@thestruggleclimbingshow - The Struggle is carbon-neutral in partnership with The Honnold Foundation, whose mission is to promote solar energy for a more equitable world. - This show is produced and hosted by Ryan Devlin, and edited by Glen Walker. The Struggle is a proud member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective, a diverse group of the best, most impactful podcasts in the outdoor industry. - The struggle makes us stronger! I hope your training and climbing are going great.  - And now here are some buzzwords to help the almighty algorithm get this show in front of people who love to climb: rock climbing, rock climber, climbing, climber, bouldering, sport climbing, gym climbing, how to rock climb, donuts are amazing. Okay, whew, that’s done. But hey, if you’re a human that’s actually reading this, and if you love this show (and love to climb) would you think about sharing this episode with a climber friend of yours? And shout it out on your socials? I’ll send you a sticker for doing it. Just shoot me a message on IG – thanks so much!   

Break through plateaus, stay consistent, and make every session count with a free 14-day trial of Intentional Climber. https://www.thestruggleclimbingshow.com/intentional   Join the email list to get a FREE private finger training clinic with Dr. Tyler Nelson (normally $15) www.thestruggleclimbingshow.com/strong   Support the Show on Patreon Get access to all Pro Clinics, bonus episodes, and more. https://www.patreon.com/thestruggleclimbingshow   - Pro climber, mindset coach, and badass mom, Hazel Findlay, is back to discuss: Her recent 5.14R trad ascent How to care about a goal without losing oneself in the process Pushing to the edge of what was healthy Is projecting “fun”?  Her emotional low point and what turned it around How her friends helped her to send The highs, lows, and "what's nexts" after the send    Sign up for the Strong Mind newsletter and check out their other free resources at https://www.strongmindclimbing.com/ Check out the Strong Mind YT channel: https://www.youtube.com/@StrongMindClimbing     - BIG THANKS TO THE AMAZING SPONSORS OF THE STRUGGLE WHO LOVE ROCK CLIMBING AS MUCH AS YOU DO: PhysiVantage: the official climbing-nutrition sponsor of The Struggle. Train harder, recover faster, and feel better than ever. I love all their stuff! Use code STRUGGLE15 at checkout for 15% off your full-priced nutrition order. Arc’teryx: Inspired by and tested in the Coast Mountains of BC, Arc’teryx makes gear to go the distance! If you’re out adventuring in the elements, Arc’teryx has got you covered. Shop their full collection at Arcteryx.com  Intentional Climber: Stop spinning your wheels. Start making real progress. Plan smarter, train harder, and stay consistent with world-class coaching plans, mindset tools, and powerful analytics built specifically for climbers. Download on Google Play or the App Store and use code STRUGGLE to unlock Kris Hampton’s 6-week Stronger Fingers program. And check out ALL the show’s awesome sponsors and exclusive deals at thestruggleclimbingshow.com/deals   - Shoutout to Aiden Schlatter, Michael Martin, and Kent Olmstead for supporting at the Hero level on Patreon. So mega!  - Here are some AI generated show notes (hopefully the robots got it right) 00:00 Hazel Returns and Big Send 03:51 Tea Talk Warmup 06:38 Route Name and Welsh Roots 11:38 E Grades and Risk Explained 14:23 Postpartum Performance Context 18:23 Motivation and Finding Your Why 24:18 Sponsors and App Updates 28:08 Goals Without Obsession 32:48 Costs Boundaries and Motherhood 36:56 Project Life Balance 39:18 Progress And Pressure 41:48 Training App Break 43:40 Projecting Fun Debate 47:09 Weather And Low Points 49:47 Route Beta Breakdown 54:04 Send Day Story 58:39 Mindset And Trying Hard 01:02:37 After The Send 01:09:45 Strong Mind Resources 01:11:20 Bonus Episode Pitch 01:14:02 Host Training Update 01:17:30 Final Thanks And Wrap - Follow along on Instagram @thestruggleclimbingshow and YouTube /@thestruggleclimbingshow - The Struggle is carbon-neutral in partnership with The Honnold Foundation, whose mission is to promote solar energy for a more equitable world. - This show is produced and hosted by Ryan Devlin, and edited by Glen Walker. The Struggle is a proud member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective, a diverse group of the best, most impactful podcasts in the outdoor industry. - The struggle makes us stronger! I hope your training and climbing are going great.  - And now here are some buzzwords to help the almighty algorithm get this show in front of people who love to climb: rock climbing, rock climber, climbing, climber, bouldering, sport climbing, gym climbing, how to rock climb, donuts are amazing. Okay, whew, that’s done. But hey, if you’re a human that’s actually reading this, and if you love this show (and love to climb) would you think about sharing this episode with a climber friend of yours? And shout it out on your socials? I’ll send you a sticker for doing it. Just shoot me a message on IG – thanks so much! 

Break through plateaus, stay consistent, and make every session count with a free 14-day trial of Intentional Climber. https://www.thestruggleclimbingshow.com/intentional   Support the Show on Patreon Get access to all Pro Clinics, bonus episodes, and more. https://www.patreon.com/thestruggleclimbingshow   Ari Grode and Rob Liberatore from The Ground Up podcast (along with special guest Chris Kalous) share pro insights from Horseshoe Hell: What is Horseshoe Hell 12, 24, and 36 hours of Hell Why aren't there more injries How to qualify in different areas Biggest mistakes noobs make at Hell What Chris and I need to do to survive  Pro tactics to save skin, energy, and sanity What to expect before, during, and after the event The most important thing: choosing the right costume   Check out The Ground Up Podcast wherever you get your pods, and follow their adventures on IG https://www.instagram.com/listentogroundup/ - BIG THANKS TO THE AMAZING SPONSORS OF THE STRUGGLE WHO LOVE ROCK CLIMBING AS MUCH AS YOU DO: PhysiVantage: the official climbing-nutrition sponsor of The Struggle. Use code STRUGGLE15 at checkout for 15% off your full-priced nutrition order. Arc’teryx: Inspired by and tested in the Coast Mountains of BC, Arc’teryx makes gear to go the distance! If you’re out adventuring in the elements, Arc’teryx has got you covered. Shop their full collection at Arcteryx.com  Rhino Skin Solutions: Take care of your skin, send harder! Amazing skin care products crafted specifically for climbers, whether you’re pulling hard indoors or out. Use code STRUGGLE to score a whopping 20% off your purchase! Intentional Climber: Stop spinning your wheels. Start making real progress. Plan smarter, train harder, and stay consistent with world-class coaching plans, mindset tools, and powerful analytics built specifically for climbers. Download on Google Play or the App Store and use code STRUGGLE to unlock Kris Hampton’s 6-week Stronger Fingers program.    And check out ALL the show’s awesome sponsors and exclusive deals at thestruggleclimbingshow.com/deals - Here are some AI generated show notes (hopefully the robots got it right) 00:00 Why Hell Feels Grim 00:51 Meet The Guests 08:52 Event Basics Explained 10:17 Vibe Costumes And Culture 14:16 Rules Points And Qualifying 18:33 The Ranch Layout And Rock 28:10 Prep Mindset And Goals 33:44 Training Systems And Stashes 38:39 Old Man Strength Training 40:19 Tactics Over Training 41:08 Shoes for 24 Hours 43:58 Prewalk and Partner Sync 46:54 Fast Transitions No Retie 49:43 Safety and Code Words 54:02 Sponsor Break Skin App 57:11 Route Difficulty Strategy 01:02:47 Rack and Permadraw Beta 01:05:49 Lead Swap and Efficiency 01:08:47 Pacing Bonks and Howls 01:10:58 Food Water Caffeine Plan 01:13:51 Food Stash Strategy 01:15:19 Dialed Systems and Ropes 01:16:40 Stashing Timing and Labels 01:18:59 Darkest Hours and Bonks 01:22:31 Night Gear and Headlamps 01:24:59 Logging Routes and Weather 01:26:56 Crowds Etiquette and Waiting 01:29:22 Taping Fingers and Gloves 01:31:21 Support Crew Rules 01:32:52 Final Hour Sprint 01:35:39 Post Finish Recovery Party 01:39:46 Wrap Up Sponsors and Training - Shoutout to Aiden Schlatter, Michael Martin, and Kent Olmstead for supporting at the Hero level on Patreon. So mega!  - Follow along on Instagram and YouTube: @thestruggleclimbingshow  - This show is produced and hosted by Ryan Devlin, and edited by Glen Walker. The Struggle is carbon-neutral in partnership with The Honnold Foundation and is a proud member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective, a diverse group of the best, most impactful podcasts in the outdoor industry. And now here are some buzzwords to help the almighty algorithm get this show in front of people who love to climb: rock climbing, rock climber, climbing, climber, bouldering, sport climbing, gym climbing, how to rock climb, donuts are amazing. Okay, whew, that’s done. But hey, if you’re a human that’s actually reading this, and if you love this show (and love to climb) would you think about sharing this episode with a climber friend of yours? And shout it out on your socials? I’ll send you a sticker for doing it. Just shoot me a message on IG – thanks so much!

Break through plateaus, stay consistent, and make every session count with a free 14-day trial of Intentional Climber. https://www.thestruggleclimbingshow.com/intentional   Join the email list to get a FREE private finger training clinic with Dr. Tyler Nelson (normally $15) www.thestruggleclimbingshow.com/strong   Support the Show on Patreon Get access to all Pro Clinics, bonus episodes, and more. https://www.patreon.com/thestruggleclimbingshow   - Professional filmmaker and climber Jon Glassberg explores: Documenting the cutting edge of climbing performance Being with Janja for every attempt on Bibliographie (9b+ / 5.15c) Dirt bagging days The evolution of climbing media What it takes to make it as a climbing photographer / filmmaker The send footage of Tommy on Meltdown that can’t be shared (yet) Exploring his incredible films Girl Climber and Strength to Weight Is Janja capable of 9c/5.15d?   Check out Jon's projects and everything Louder than 11 is up to at https://lt11.com/ and https://www.instagram.com/louderthan11/ - BIG THANKS TO THE AMAZING SPONSORS OF THE STRUGGLE WHO LOVE ROCK CLIMBING AS MUCH AS YOU DO: SCARPA: The best climbing shoes, trail runners, and hikers in the game! Score yourself a free SCARPA x STRUGGLE hat when you use code STRUGGLE at checkout at SCARPA.com. SCARPA, No Place Too Far. Arc’teryx: Inspired by and tested in the Coast Mountains of BC, Arc’teryx makes gear to go the distance! If you’re out adventuring in the elements, Arc’teryx has got you covered. Shop their full collection at Arcteryx.com  Intentional Climber: Stop spinning your wheels. Start making real progress. Plan smarter, train harder, and stay consistent with world-class coaching plans, mindset tools, and powerful analytics built specifically for climbers. Download on Google Play or the App Store and use code STRUGGLE to unlock Kris Hampton’s 6-week Stronger Fingers program. Spire Clip: Built to last, built to work every time. Easily hang and remove draws, clip your rope through a pre-hung draw, and snag your rope for the next climb. Purchase just the head or full rig with the carbon fiber pole and use code STRUGGLE for $10 off. And check out ALL the show’s awesome sponsors and exclusive deals at thestruggleclimbingshow.com/deals   - Shoutout to Aiden Schlatter, Michael Martin, and Kent Olmstead for supporting at the Hero level on Patreon. So mega!  - Here are some AI generated show notes (hopefully the robots got it right) 00:00 Why Film Struggle 00:26 Meet John Glasberg 03:53 Parenthood And Travel 07:37 Janja And Bibliographie 09:56 Early Climbing Roots 13:28 Dirtbag Year On Road 14:26 Bouldering Breakthrough 18:13 Digital Media Revolution 20:01 Building Louder Than 11 26:18 Creative Hustle Today 27:27 Betting On Stories 33:50 Strength To Weight Origins 35:16 Ethan And Fatherhood 42:06 Sponsor Break And Next Film 46:01 Girl Climber Reflections 47:20 Portaledge Turning Point 51:38 Storytelling Under Pressure 52:57 Chasing Janja Interview 54:28 Why Bibliographie Matters 58:15 Near Misses And Conditions 01:00:47 The Send Day Breakdown 01:03:19 Is This Her Limit 01:07:06 What Makes Janja Great 01:12:51 Future Goals And 9C 01:19:13 Bonus Episode Teaser 01:22:10 Support The Show 01:24:34 Bee Sting Climbing Update 01:27:56 Final Sign Off - Follow along on Instagram @thestruggleclimbingshow and YouTube /@thestruggleclimbingshow - The Struggle is carbon-neutral in partnership with The Honnold Foundation, whose mission is to promote solar energy for a more equitable world. - This show is produced and hosted by Ryan Devlin, and edited by Glen Walker. The Struggle is a proud member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective, a diverse group of the best, most impactful podcasts in the outdoor industry. - The struggle makes us stronger! I hope your training and climbing are going great.  - And now here are some buzzwords to help the almighty algorithm get this show in front of people who love to climb: rock climbing, rock climber, climbing, climber, bouldering, sport climbing, gym climbing, how to rock climb, donuts are amazing. Okay, whew, that’s done. But hey, if you’re a human that’s actually reading this, and if you love this show (and love to climb) would you think about sharing this episode with a climber friend of yours? And shout it out on your socials? I’ll send you a sticker for doing it. Just shoot me a message on IG – thanks so much!   

Reflecting on my training, performance, and experimentation for the month, including: Recap of June/July goals (hits and misses) Another back injury Australia struggles and climbing Nate Drolet's new training plan for me Exploring the maximum tolerable dose of training A technique "a-ha moment" on the Treadwall August goals Shoutout to Aiden Schlatter, Michael Martin, and Kent Olmstead for supporting at the Hero level on Patreon. So mega! Download Intentional Climber on Google Play or the App Store and use code STRUGGLE to unlock $100 of free coaching plans, plus a secret discount. Have an awesome month!

Break through plateaus, stay consistent, and make every session count with a free 14-day trial of Intentional Climber. https://www.thestruggleclimbingshow.com/intentional   Join the email list to get a FREE private finger training clinic with Dr. Tyler Nelson (normally $15) www.thestruggleclimbingshow.com/strong   Support the Show on Patreon Get access to all Pro Clinics, bonus episodes, and more. https://www.patreon.com/thestruggleclimbingshow   Father, husband, computer programmer, and weekend warrior Jeff Ash explores: Climbing in the 80s with Matt Samet Quitting climbing for 32 years  Ninja training crossover  Being more intentional with training  Focusing on technique The power of reflection and journaling  How to avoid gym distractions  Training indoors for just a few outdoor days Intuitive eating and forming a healthier relationship with food Drill work to improve movement The benefit of “coaching” our friends  - BIG THANKS TO THE AMAZING SPONSORS OF THE STRUGGLE WHO LOVE ROCK CLIMBING AS MUCH AS YOU DO: SCARPA: The best climbing shoes, trail runners, and hikers in the game! Score yourself a free SCARPA x STRUGGLE hat when you use code STRUGGLE at checkout at SCARPA.com. SCARPA, No Place Too Far. Arc’teryx: Inspired by and tested in the Coast Mountains of BC, Arc’teryx makes gear to go the distance! If you’re out adventuring in the elements, Arc’teryx has got you covered. Shop their full collection at Arcteryx.com    And check out ALL the show’s awesome sponsors and exclusive deals at thestruggleclimbingshow.com/deals - Here are some AI generated show notes (hopefully the robots got it right) 00:00 Low Hanging Gains 00:56 Meet Jeff Ashe 09:53 Jeffs Climbing Roots 15:18 Life Break From Climbing 18:01 Return After 32 Years 22:59 Old School Ethics 23:50 Rebuilding At 50 Plus 26:02 Arcteryx Academy Plug 27:15 Shoe Gear Talk 27:43 Scarpa Shoe Picks 29:10 Software Engineer Origins 30:12 Tech Then and Now 32:03 Houston Gym Routine 34:04 Intentional Technique Gains 39:16 Planning Sessions and Drills 43:30 Outdoor Goals and Route Style 50:08 Intuitive Eating Coaching 54:57 Root Causes and Habit Fixes 58:40 Journaling Patterns in Training 01:00:33 Exaggerate Hip Technique 01:02:45 Drills and Coaching Tools 01:04:29 Film Your Sessions 01:07:38 What to Look For 01:12:12 Board Video Comparisons 01:13:24 Train Hard Then Have Fun 01:14:44 Summer Endurance Goals 01:17:10 Community Feedback and App 01:22:02 Jet Lag and Australia Trip 01:25:19 Back Injury and Reset 01:27:01 Training Plan Ahead 01:28:45 Closing Motivation   - Shoutout to Aiden Schlatter, Michael Martin, and Kent Olmstead for supporting at the Hero level on Patreon. So mega!  - Follow along on Instagram and YouTube: @thestruggleclimbingshow  - This show is produced and hosted by Ryan Devlin, and edited by Glen Walker. The Struggle is carbon-neutral in partnership with The Honnold Foundation and is a proud member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective, a diverse group of the best, most impactful podcasts in the outdoor industry. And now here are some buzzwords to help the almighty algorithm get this show in front of people who love to climb: rock climbing, rock climber, climbing, climber, bouldering, sport climbing, gym climbing, how to rock climb, donuts are amazing. Okay, whew, that’s done. But hey, if you’re a human that’s actually reading this, and if you love this show (and love to climb) would you think about sharing this episode with a climber friend of yours? And shout it out on your socials? I’ll send you a sticker for doing it. Just shoot me a message on IG – thanks so much!