Ep. 18 Eavesdropping on Elephants (night sounds of Kibale Forest)

We’re back in the bird hide talking about monkeys with Pam Cunneyworth, Director of Colobus Conservation in Diani on the Kenyan coast. It was at the young age of 7 that a teacher planted the lifelong love of Africa in her. At university, a lecture by Birutė Galdikas, a *trimate (one of Dr. Louis Leakey's famous primatologists) inspired Pam to take “the road less travelled,” a journey that led her to leave Canada for a life in East Africa. In our conversation, Pam offers us a glimpse into a fascinating world of primates: The impact of "Colobridges," aerial structures that help monkeys cross roads safely. Why you shouldn't ignore the 'eyebrow flash' of a baboon (hint: it's an important signal!)   How studying a small population of monkeys on the Kenyan coast ties in with global projects to protect ecosystems. Practical steps hotels can take to minimise monkey and baboon encounters. Lastly, we list some of the many tourist attractions in Diani on Kenya’s stunning Indian Ocean coast.  Join me Charlotte Beauvoisin, author of Diary of a Muzungu | East Africa Travel Blog, in the birdhide at Sunbird Hill for a conversation about monkeys, tourism, future plans for the podcast - and some thank yous! *Known as  "the “trimates,” Louis Leakey was the first to commission the three female primatologists: Dame Jane Goodall (who specialises in chimpanzees) and Dian Fossey (mountain gorillas) and Birutė Galdikas (orangutans). Together, their research has rewritten our understanding of great apes. Welcome to my world!  Tune in every week to The East Africa Travel Podcast for the dawn chorus, travel advice, chats with award-winning conservationists, safari guides, birders, lodge owners (and wacky guidebook writers). Sign up to my weekly newsletter. Follow Charlotte Beauvoisin, Diary of a Muzungu on Instagram, Facebook, LinkedIn and X.  

Whether you're a fan of the Olympics, a runner - or just someone like me who loves Africa - episode 19 is for you. First off, a massive congratulations to everyone who participated in Paris 2024 - what an event it’s been! Today, we celebrate the remarkable achievements of East African athletes and give a special shout-out to the 12 African countries that brought home medals, with Kenya leading the way in athletics, and Uganda making its mark with two well-deserved medals.  What are the unique factors that make Kenya, Ethiopia and Uganda "the home of champions"? Behind the medals: I discuss the challenges faced by East African athletes. The lack of financial support makes their achievements even more inspiring. I’ve run all over Africa. And if - like me - the Olympics have inspired you, listen closely: I have some fantastic marathon and high altitude running ideas in East Africa that you won’t want to miss. Join me, Charlotte Beauvoisin, author of Diary of a Muzungu, as I lace up my running shoes for a short loop around East Africa. Welcome to my world!  Tune in every week to The East Africa Travel Podcast for the dawn chorus, travel advice, chats with award-winning conservationists, safari guides, birders, lodge owners (and wacky guidebook writers). Sign up to my weekly newsletter. Follow Charlotte Beauvoisin, Diary of a Muzungu on Instagram, Facebook, LinkedIn and X. [Graphic of Uganda's gold medallist Joshua Cheptegai courtesy of Nile Breweries].  

An elephant rumble or an earth tremor – can the Muzungu tell the difference? In episode 18, we're back in my wooden house on the edge of Kibale National Park in western Uganda, alert to the night sounds from the forest. Join me as I listen to the sounds of elephants – one of the many incredible experiences that inspired this podcast. Can you hear them breathing?  In this episode, you’ll discover: How to tell when an elephant is nearby – by the splintering of wood or the shape of fresh dung. What happens when elephants cross the park boundary onto community land. Come with me – Charlotte Beauvoisin, author of *Diary of a Muzungu* – as I wrap up in a Maasai blanket to sit in the dark, listening for night sounds at Sunbird Hill, Nature Monitoring and Rewilding Site, Kibale Forest, Uganda. It's a short episode, packed with atmosphere. Welcome to my world!  Tune in every week to The East Africa Travel Podcast for the dawn chorus, travel advice, chats with award-winning conservationists, safari guides, birders, lodge owners (and wacky guidebook writers). Sign up my weekly newsletter. Follow Charlotte Beauvoisin, Diary of a Muzungu on Instagram, Facebook, LinkedIn and X.

This week, we are slowing down to reconnect with nature on the edge of the tropical rainforest. Come with me as we navigate waterlogged "elephant potholes," the lockdown playground I shared with my 10-year-old nephew, Dillon. It's a delightfully squelchy episode! Put on your gumboots and find out: What will I see from the bird hide? Who might need rescuing from the elephant trench? Why is life so difficult for farmers living on the edge of Kibale National Park? The joys of a muddy walk! Join me, Charlotte Beauvoisin, author of Diary of a Muzungu, as we splosh about on the edge of the forest. This episode is dedicated to Mzee, the late Silver Kyamukama, an expert tracker, reformed poacher, and long-term friend of Sunbird Hill, Nature Monitoring and Rewilding Site, Kibale Forest, Uganda on the edge of Kibale Forest, western Uganda. Welcome to my world!  Tune in every week to The East Africa Travel Podcast for the dawn chorus, travel advice, chats with award-winning conservationists, safari guides, birders, lodge owners (and wacky guidebook writers). Sign up my weekly newsletter. Follow Charlotte Beauvoisin, Diary of a Muzungu on Instagram, Facebook, LinkedIn and X.

In this episode, I resume my conversation with Ian Redmond, OBE, “a self-confessed gorillaholic who's been hooked for 40 years!” Ian is also known as Mandevu “the bearded one,” one of his African names. In episode 15, we talked about the interconnectedness of life: how the elephant, chimpanzee and gorilla ‘gardeners of the forests’ of the Congo Basin are connected with a loaf of bread in England and - importantly - how local people can benefit financially from the ecosystem services of animals that are often regarded as a nuisance when wildlife tramples or eats their crops, or endangers human life. We also talked about Ian's role in the mountain gorilla story, working with his mentor Dr. Dian Fossey in Rwanda. In part two, we discuss: The birth of a gorilla in captivity. What does its future look like? Western lowland gorillas and bonobos. What's the difference? Frustrating travel advisories! How safe is it to travel to Kahuzi Biega National Park in the DR Congo? Is there any conservation model as successful as gorilla tracking? “Primatologist's neck” - which phenomenon is Ian referring to here? And finally, will he reveal which great ape is his favourite?  Welcome to my world!  Tune in every week to The East Africa Travel Podcast for the dawn chorus, travel advice, chats with award-winning conservationists, safari guides, birders, lodge owners, and wacky guidebook writers. Sign up my weekly newsletter. Follow Charlotte Beauvoisin, Diary of a Muzungu on Instagram, Facebook, LinkedIn and X. Some of the organisations Ian represents, include: Chair of Trustees, The Gorilla Organization Co-Founder, Rebalance Earth, which is developing a global ecosystems platform for valuing and funding a living nature to combat climate change, protect biodiversity and lift communities out of poverty Head of Conservation, Ecoflix the first not for profit global streaming platform dedicated to saving animals and the planet Senior Wildlife Consultant and Policy Adviser, Born Free Foundation Ambassador for the UN’s  Convention on Migratory Species 2010-2024 Co-founder and former Envoy, UN-GRASP.org Founder and Chairman, Ape Alliance (linking 95 organisations) Fellow, Linnean Society, Royal Geographical Society and previously Zoological Society of London Ambassador and consultant, www.vEcotourism.org Connecting and empowering conservation projects by integrating state-of-the-art immersive digital technologies with traditional storytelling You can follow Ian Redmond OBE on YouTube, Facebook, Ian Redmond on X For inspiration from the natural world, follow #BrightenYourDay (on all social media)

In the first of two conversations, renowned conservationist (and personal conservation hero) Ian Redmond OBE discusses the interconnectedness of life – from the elephant, gorilla, and chimpanzee gardeners in the rainforests of the Congo Basin to a loaf of bread in England! Ian has been in love with East Africa since 1976 when he first travelled to Africa to study and protect the mountain gorillas of Rwanda and the DRC (Democratic Republic of the Congo, formerly known as Zaire). In 1978, he was part of the team that filmed Sir David Attenborough’s famous encounter with the mountain gorillas for the BBC’s “Life on Earth” series. Such was the impact of that recording that in 1999, British television viewers placed Attenborough’s gorilla sequence at number 12 out of 100 in the “Greatest TV Moments,” ranking it ahead of Queen Elizabeth II's coronation and the wedding of Charles and Diana. More importantly for the mountain gorillas, this intimate moment with a great ape was one of the catalysts for a turnaround in their (then) critically endangered status. During the past four decades, Ian has advised in the making of more than 100 documentaries for the BBC, Nat Geo, and the Discovery Channel. He even coached actress Sigourney Weaver on how to grunt like a gorilla for the 1988 film “Gorillas in the Mist.”  Listen to the first part of our conversation to learn about: Ian’s role in the mountain gorilla story His unusual approach to securing a job with Dian Fossey in the Virunga Mountains of Rwanda Turning points in his life, such as the murder of his friend Digit, the young silverback gorilla How Fossey might view gorilla conservation now Rebalance Earth and the ecosystem services value of an elephant far beyond its tourism value In part two (episode 16) Ian talks about western lowland gorillas, bonobos and Kahuzi Biega National Park in the DRC, along with more entertaining insights from his amazing career Ian Redmond OBE is a man of many hats! These include: Chair of Trustees, The Gorilla Organization Co-Founder, Rebalance Earth, which is developing a global ecosystems platform for valuing and funding a living nature to combat climate change, protect biodiversity and lift communities out of poverty Head of Conservation, Ecoflix the first not for profit global streaming platform dedicated to saving animals and the planet Senior Wildlife Consultant and Policy Adviser, Born Free Foundation Ambassador for the UN’s  Convention on Migratory Species 2010-2024 Co-founder and former Envoy, UN-GRASP.org Founder and Chairman, Ape Alliance (linking 95 organisations) Fellow, Linnean Society, Royal Geographical Society and previously Zoological Society of London Ambassador and consultant, www.vEcotourism.org Connecting and empowering conservation projects by integrating state-of-the-art immersive digital technologies with traditional storytelling Follow Ian Redmond on X Welcome to my world!  Tune in every week to The East Africa Travel Podcast for the dawn chorus, travel advice, chats with award-winning conservationists, safari guides, birders, lodge owners, and wacky guidebook writers. Sign up my weekly newsletter. Follow Charlotte Beauvoisin, Diary of a Muzungu on Instagram, Facebook, LinkedIn and X.

In this week's episode, we take a short walk through the village bordering Kibale National Park. It's a lazy Sunday and everyone's in a good mood: drivers wave hellos and boys herd goats.  Do all white 'muzungu' women look the same? I giggle with my neighbour as he mistakes me (for a friend I do not resemble in the least).  Tune in to hear: Friendly greetings on a gentle walk through the village. Birdsong and the joy of being back in the forest at Sunbird Hill. "Novel ways a podcast is promoting Ugandan tourism." The Sunday Monitor newspaper publishes a feature all about the East Africa Travel Podcast. A preview of guests from upcoming episodes: Mzee Silver Kyamukama, a reformed poacher and local legend, and Ian Redmond OBE, renowned for his work with Dian Fossey and Sir David Attenborough. Lastly, what time is elephant o'clock and what does it signal? Welcome to my world!  Tune in every week to The East Africa Travel Podcast for the dawn chorus, travel advice, chats with award-winning conservationists, safari guides, birders, lodge owners, and wacky guidebook writers. Sign up my weekly newsletter. Follow Charlotte Beauvoisin, Diary of a Muzungu on Instagram, Facebook, LinkedIn and Twitter.

In episode 13, we go niche! When I moved to Uganda, one of my biggest fears was how I would cope with insects! Here at Sunbird Hill, Nature Monitoring and Rewilding Site, Kibale Forest, Uganda, on the edge of Kibale Forest, we see shiny green beetles with purple wings and swallowtail butterflies that are as big as your hand. Look at my social media now, and you'll see me holding a giant goliath beetle. It's clear I've put any phobia behind me for the bigger the creature, the more fascinated I am. In this week's podcast I talk insects and moths with visiting entomologist Dr Michael Ochse of Pollichia, a German environmental organisation. Listen to our conversation as I ask: What makes Kibale Forest such a biodiversity hotspot? How big is Papilio Antimachus - (pictured in my podcast artwork) - Africa's largest butterfly?How easy is it to identify a butterfly? What makes Uganda such a good destination to travel around? And lastly, what am I doing with hundreds of insects buzzing around me in the middle of the night? Welcome to my world!  Tune in every week to The East Africa Travel Podcast for the dawn chorus, travel advice, chats with award-winning conservationists, safari guides, birders, lodge owners, and wacky guidebook writers. Sign up my weekly newsletter. Follow Charlotte Beauvoisin, Diary of a Muzungu on Instagram, Facebook, LinkedIn and Twitter.  

In episode 12, we're in Kibale Forest, agog at the sight of chimpanzees. (You'll never guess where they are!) Listen in as 'Papa' Les Lloyd and I compare notes about our unexpected primate visitors. Then, I discuss my recent trip to Kenya and preview some of the upcoming episodes: How many modes of public transport do I take on the long journey between Kampala, Uganda, and Mombasa, Kenya?  What are my personal highlights from our first episodes? Who's up next? A sneak peek into conversations with experts on great apes (Ian Redmond OBE), parrots (World Parrot Trust), turtles (Diani Turtle Watch), monkeys (Colobus Conservation in Diani), and butterflies and moths (Mikhail Ochse, Pollichia). And lastly, what's my most unusual location yet for recording the podcast? You gotta laugh! Join me - Charlotte Beauvoisin, author of Diary of a Muzungu – as we hang out with cool people doing awesome stuff to protect our world. Welcome to my world!  Tune in every week to The East Africa Travel Podcast for the dawn chorus, travel advice, chats with award-winning conservationists, safari guides, birders, lodge owners, and wacky guidebook writers. Sign up my weekly newsletter. Follow Charlotte Beauvoisin, Diary of a Muzungu on Instagram, Facebook, LinkedIn and Twitter.

In episode 11, I’m joined by a visitor from Peru: ecologist and field researcher Chris Ketola. With 25 years’ experience working with wild animals, I’m intrigued to know how time in Equatorial Africa compares with his life in the Amazon. During a ten-week tour of Uganda, Ketola and Fauna Forever co-founder Chris Kirkby led a team of 14 volunteers. Together they covered 3000 km, capturing (and releasing) 2000 birds and bats at eight sites across the country. Listen to my conversation with Chris Ketola, accompanied by a backdrop of birdsong, as he reveals: Join me - Charlotte Beauvoisin, author of Diary of a Muzungu – on the shores of Lake Victoria as I compare notes with Chris Ketola. What are his tips for organising a trip to Uganda? What did the baboons do to his mosquito net? Which are his favourite Ugandan foods? How does he reassure people not to be afraid of snakes? And, why does he find bats so adorable?  Welcome to my world!  Tune in every week to The East Africa Travel Podcast for the dawn chorus, travel advice, chats with award-winning conservationists, safari guides, birders, lodge owners, and wacky guidebook writers. Sign up my weekly newsletter. Follow Charlotte Beauvoisin, Diary of a Muzungu on Instagram, Facebook, LinkedIn and Twitter.