Episode 42 - Tim interviews Dan Royter, a New York-based independent watchmaker and creator of Royter watches

Tim talks with world renowned Patek Philippe scholar, collector, and dealer John Reardon about Patek Philippe calendar watches. From the era of pocket watches to the present day, this talk covers the evolution of Patek Philippe calendar, annual calendar, and perpetual calendar watches. Highly collectible vintage Patek series including the 1526, the 3448, and 3940 receive in-depth treatments drawn from the combined experience of our two hosts. Modern Patek Philippe calendar watches including the 5050, 5035, 5396, and 5236 are discussed for their landmark innovations and relevance to future collectors. This is the ultimate in-depth dive into Patek Philippe calendar watches.

Noted watch collector and style leader William Massena reflects on four decades of collecting watches as well as his recent career as a design coordinator. From early encounters with Seiko and Rolex to F.P. Journe and De Bethune, William leads Tim on a journey that starts with childhood and ends with deliveries to clients. As the founder of Massena LAB, William works with the world’s top artisans and artists to create watches with irreverent humor and classical beauty. Anyone who’s ever fantasized about creating a watch brand will enjoy listening to this masterclass from an entrepreneur who is living the dream.

From Patek Philippe to Blancpain and beyond, even grail watches are imperfect. In today’s episode, Tim offers constructive criticism of his favorite watches from major luxury brands. Make no mistake; these are Tim’s major goal watches, and their flaws do not diminish their desirability. But honesty is the best policy, and a critical perspective can be key to weeding out sound and unsound choices. Watch collectors seeking to pare down their purchase targets can ride along with Tim and apply his critical eye for evaluating which goal watches are keepers and discards.

Since its resurrection in 2015, independent watch brand Czapek & Cie. has gained a reputation for quality, irreverence, and transparency. Brand CEO Xavier de Roquemaurel’s personality, values, and business approach account for much of Czapek’s approachable public image. Tim Mosso shares an hour with Mr. Roquemaurel to discuss the company’s origins, new factory, future ambitions, and the unqualified success of the Antarctique sports watch collection. Many 2022 novelties and 2023 product plans feature prominently, and Czapek’s open disclosure of its etablissage approach to watchmaking highlight Mr. Roquemaurel’s pragmatic product development process. This episode provides insight into the creation and operation of a watch brand that produces hundreds – not thousands – of watches per year.

Tim opens the second season of his podcast with an in-depth interview of author and economics professor Brendan Cunningham, PhD. Dr. Cunningham is a professor of economics at Eastern Connecticut State University, a former instructor at the U.S. Naval Academy, and a former advisor to the U.S. Federal Trade Commission. Tim and Dr. Cunningham discuss his first book about horology, “Selling the Crown: The Secret History of Marketing Rolex.” This episode contains an overview of the book, analysis of Rolex marketing strategies in the 1940s, 50s, and 60s, and insights into the colorful characters who manned Rolex’s ad agency during this period. Dr. Cunningham also writes the “Horolonomics” blog with an economist’s perspective on today’s luxury watch marketplace.

Tim interviews Dan Royter, a New York-based independent watchmaker and creator of Royter watches. Dan is living proof that a dedicated watch enthusiast can become a sophisticated watchmaker and component finisher without any formal watch school or apprenticeship. Entirely self-taught, Dan is a remarkable success story and an inspiration for rank-and-file watch enthusiasts.

Tim interviews Aren Bazerkanian, creator of Havid Nagan luxury watches. Aren entered the watch industry working for F.P. Journe while refining his tastes as a collector. For 2022, Aren has launched Havid Nagan, an independent American luxury watch brand with products designed in the U.S.A and constructed in Switzerland by Schwarz-Etienne. Any collector who has dreamed of creating his own brand will enjoy Aren’s account of taking a watch from initial dreams to reality on the wrist.

“After four years of wearing only his Sinn, Tim is in the market for his next watch. From the humble Ball Engineer II to the heights of De Bethune and Patek Philippe, almost every style and price point of watch is in the running to make the cut. Join Tim as he window shops for his next luxury watch and shares his thoughts on the candidates.”

Join Tim for a myth-busting discussion of luxury watch misconceptions and why they’re as accurate as a broken watch. From legends about depreciation to rarity and the supposed dearth of young watch enthusiasts, Tim takes collectors on a journey through the biggest misconceptions in the watch hobby.

Tim explores the most expensive Omega watches. From the Speedmaster to the Seamaster and beyond, Omega makes a number of unexpected artisanal, complicated, precious metal, and limited edition watches. Tourbillon watches, lapis lazuli dials, and indestructible Richard Mille-rivaling sports watches offer quality and exclusivity that belie Omega’s mass-market image.