#46 - Tyler Nelson

Natasha Barnes is a chiropractic physician (DC), a former National Bouldering Champion, and a rehab and strength coach for climbers. Natasha uses evidence-based strength training to help climbers recover from injury, get past plateaus and build resilience, without having to stop climbing to heal. On this episode, we talk about transitioning between sports, the nuances of diet and nutrition, coaching, and expanding her business.  

Thanks patrons for the questions this month!  Become a patron: https://www.patreon.com/innerfireclimbing 0:02:44 - Jake - Tips for approaching a project with a single-move crux?  0:08:49 - Anthony - How do you program density hangs? Do they go before a session, after a session, or on a non-climbing day? Is there anything you wouldn’t program with them, such as wall crawls or max hangs? Do you prefer adding weight or changing edge size? What edge makes the most sense? 0:15:19 - Nico - Tips for managing skin when having successive sessions on different rock types between midweek and weekend sessions? 0:19:52 - Kelly - Gym climbing doesn’t provide many problems with sit starts, which are ubiquitous outdoors. Besides doing more of what you’re bad at, do you have general principles, tips, or exercises to help? 0:25:09 - Sam - Are problems meant to be solved or understood, or something else entirely? 0:29:31 - Jantina - What characteristics of a climber tend to facilitate a more productive and satisfying working relationship with you as a coach? 0:38:32 - Jared - Media always talks about feet-on / training tension. How do I learn jump-and-cut technique? 0:42:39 - Steven - Why do people judge Rice Krispies at the crag?  0:43:08 - IG - How do I find out what is holding my flexibility back: weakness or tightness? 0:43:33 - IG - If you could have two home walls and mostly sport climb, what angles do you choose? 0:43:49 - IG - As a person with ADHD, how do I navigate choosing and sticking to my projects?

Kerrin Gale is a counsellor (Dip. Couns.), sports psychology practitioner (Cert. Sports Psych.), and the founder of Beta Mind Lab. Kerrin coaches climbers by building a stable mental foundation of values, identity and self-worth that doesn’t depend on outcomes. In this episode we talk about, counseling climbers, the mental struggle of hard projecting, and finding satisfaction in climbing.

Thanks patrons for the questions this month!  Become a patron: https://www.patreon.com/innerfireclimbing 0:01:45 - BA - When training endurance for sport climbing, how much should I focus on the half crimp or generic crimping in my endurance circuits? 0:08:05 - Andrew - How to avoid getting tennis elbow from compression climbing on trips 0:12:50 - Kelly - What should I take with me when bouldering outside? What pads or pad features do you recommend? Anything to look for in shoes or brushes that make them better for outdoor climbing? 0:18:32 - Anthony - How monotonous do you think board sessions should be? Would you recommend having set warm-ups on the commercial boards? How difficult would these warm-ups go up to? And who or when would you prescribe a set circuit of problems to do every session? 0:23:33 - Cameron - One of the limiting factors I've found for climbing hard on long days in lower angle or vertical terrain is toe and foot fatigue from standing on edges and being in climbing shoes for a bunch of pitches. Do you have any thoughts on how to prepare my feet in advance? 0:28:13 - Jack - If you could choose to have a large impact on fewer people or a smaller impact on many more people, which would you rather do?  0:31:42 - Aaron from IG - What is some effective sloper training that isn't just climbing more slopers? 0:36:54 - Kyle - Do you think it's possible to identify as a performance-oriented climber and not have the occasional spiral of angst, or is this just part of the game? 0:43:23 - Anonymous - Why can I not have interest in trying a hard boulder when other people are already in project mode on it, even when they're close friends? 0:45:45 - Luca -  I noticed while climbing I struggle to take good rests and I get pumped when I boulder sections. I'm a sport climber, mostly long overhanging roots. Do you think my feelings on the rock are related to critical force weakness? What is the best way to improve it? 0:52:03 - Jacob - What is the difference between a climber who is stuck and a climber who is in the middle of a breakthrough? 0:55:52 - Jantina - What counts as a session or an attempt? 1:00:02 - Alex - What would your advice be to a front-wheel drive climber to make the transition to becoming a rear wheel drive climber? 

Tyler Nelson is a chiropractic physician (DC), sports scientist (MS), Certified Strength and Conditioning Specialist (CSCS), and the founder of C4HP. He is an expert at diagnosing climbing injuries and guiding climbers through rehabilitation grounded in sports science. On this episode, we do a no-stupid-questions AMA, talk everything finger training, and discuss some of the most common finger injuries climbers suffer.

Thanks patrons for the questions this month!  Become a patron: https://www.patreon.com/innerfireclimbing 0:01:42 - Greg - If I was to add 20 minutes or so of focused time to make myself better each time, what would you suggest? 0:07:21 - Kelly - How should I adjust my hangboard training on days when I am objectively weaker/extra fatigued? 0:11:00 - Jake - What exactly does define a solid triangle? What makes one triangle particularly better than another? If I had a perfectly solid triangle position, how would shifting one foot or hand to the right, up, down, etc. affect the position and how I feel holding the position? 0:16:30 - Anthony - How do you balance projecting versus doing things you can do in a session? 0:22:07 - Jantina - Is avoiding the full crimp a sustainable approach for a climber who wants to continue to progress? How significant is the risk associated with full crimping? And how should climbers approach full crimping in training and performance climbing? 0:32:10 - Ethan - If you woke up tomorrow morning and decided that next season you were going to go all in on trying to red point the hardest sport climb for yourself up to this point, such as the next grade from your current personal best, what would your training, preparation, and in-season strategy look like? 0:41:46 - IG - How do you commit to a long goal when your day-to-day is telling you not right now? 0:45:03 - IG - What was the hardest lesson for you to learn en route to becoming the climber you are today? 0:47:55 - IG - What's a climbing or training topic you have changed your mind on the past few years? 0:51:30 - IG - What are some good back/shoulder exercises that don't heavily involve the bicep?

Karly Rager is a Certified Strength and Conditioning Specialist (CSCS), an AMGA Single Pitch Instructor (SPI), and has over 13 years of climbing experience. Karly is the founder and head coach for Project Direct Coaching. On this episode, we talk about current project on the Cube in the Bighorn Mountains in Wyoming, what it's like to prioritize learning over sending, and how to choose a climbing coach.

Thanks patrons for the questions this month!  Become a patron: https://www.patreon.com/innerfireclimbing 0:01:52 - Olga - Describe your perfect climbing partner for bouldering and ropes if there's a difference. 0:08:48 - Casey - What are all your Squamish microclimate tactical secrets? 0:15:40 - Foo - Is climbing training solved? 0:23:04 - Matthew - Do you feel that the ability to execute is more a physical or mental skill? And do you have any advice on ways to develop this skill further? 0:28:32 - Sam - How do you know when retreating during a climb is an act of fear versus an act of discernment? 0:31:28 - Jack - Why am I breathing so hard on sport routes? 0:36:05 - Jantina - Why should someone work with a coach? Any other advice for climbers about how to find a good climbing coach and maximize the value of working with them? 0:43:20 - Anthony -When and how do you recommend I train power endurance? 0:48:00 - Rob - I'd be interested to know if you cycle your training, and if not, what your typical training week looks like. 0:57:18 - Daniel - What's your plan for the rest of the year?

Hilary Sherman is scientist, climbing advocate, and local legend in the Northeast climbing scene.  Over a decade ago, she suffered a life changing injury while climbing. On today's episode, Hilary shares her story of resilience and her return to climbing at her peak form.

Thanks patrons for the questions this month!  Become a patron: https://www.patreon.com/innerfireclimbing 0:02:50 - Cian - What makes a good guidebook? 0:09:05 - Daniel - Process for setting problems for oneself on a board 0:13:30 - Jantina - Thoughts on Janja's ascent of Bibliographie? 0:19:05 - Daniel - Best mobility exercises? 0:25:30 - Anthony - Would you move a boulder to make a problem harder? (hypothetical) 0:31:05 - Jishnu - How should weekend warriors think about in season training? 0:35:35 - Cameron - Do you need to train off the wall to progress as a climber? 0:40:00 - Sam - How does climbing progress when we reward people for following similar paths?