Audemars Piguet, Ulysse Nardin, Zenith, and More | Hodinkee Podcast | Watches and Wonders - Day 4

This week on The Business of Watches, we sit down with Akio Naito, the President of Seiko Watch Corporation. Seiko's Credor brand, the ultra-premium offering showcasing artisanal creations, unique craftsmanship, and design, made its Watches and Wonders debut this year. We talk about Credor's positioning within the Seiko group and its expansion into international markets. The biggest challenge for Credor, Naito says, will be increasing production for more markets, as the skills required to produce the timepieces are highly specialized and take years to master. We also get an update on Grand Seiko. Naito says the brand has increased its international sales by more than 15x over the past decade, driven largely by success in the U.S. market. Grand Seiko is continuing to update and improve its offerings, including a new ultra-accurate and ultra-luxurious dive watch in a more compact size that clients have been asking for. We also hear about the growing interest and awareness of Grand Seiko's class-leading 9F quartz movement technology, which is becoming an increasingly popular choice for some clients. But first, Hodinkee Senior Editor Mark Kauzlarich drops in for a fresh analysis on some of the record watch auction results from the spring sessions in Geneva. Pocket watches were hot, Journe was surging, and Patek showed continued strength with a record result for a rare Patek 2523. So what isn't hot right now? Tune in to find out.  Show Notes 1:18 Auctions: The Five Results That Actually Mattered, From The Spring 2026 Auction Season (Hodinkee) 1:34 Derek Pratt for Urban Jürgensen "The Oval" (Phillips) 3:20 Akrivia AK-06 (Phillips) 3:41 Louis Richard "Triple Detent Constant Force One Minute Tourbillon Chronometer" 5:04 Patek Philippe Ref. 2523 "Polychrome Two-crown World-time", "Doppia Corona Policromo" (Phillips) 6:10 Records Shatter at Sotheby's Hong Kong: Important Watches Auction Soars to HK$414.2 Million / US$52.9 Million 7:25 Audemars Piguet Coussin Tortue (Christie's) 8:22 Audemars Piguet Ref. 5503 (Phillips) 13:33 Credor (company website) 14:22 Interview: Seiko Watch Corporation President Akio Naito On Grand Seiko's Future (Hodinkee)  19:38 Introducing: Credor Makes Its First Watches And Wonders Appearance With Three Novelties (Live Pics) (Hodinkee) 20:00 In-Depth A Tour Of Grand Seiko, Part 1 (Hodinkee) 21:10 Introducing: Credor's Revival Of The Locomotive, A Long-Overlooked Gerald Genta Design (In-Depth, Live Pics) (Hodinkee) 22:53 Credor Studios (Credor) 24:36 Watches And Wonders Attendance Climbs Despite Geo-Politics And Economic Challenges As Brands Make Case For Value (Hodinkee) 25:00 Credor History 28:07 Introducing: Grand Seiko Shrinks Ultra-Accurate U.F.A. Ushio 300 Divers To Less Than 41mm Wide (Live Pics) (Hodinkee) 30:26 Grand Seiko 9F Quartz 

This week on The Business of Watches, we're in Hölstein, Switzerland, near Basel, at the peach-rose colored headquarters of Oris to talk to Rolf Studer, the brand's Chief Executive Officer. One of the 50 largest Swiss brands by sales, Oris is a true independent, making mechanical watches at fair prices, conveying the brand's unique spirit.  Its history dates back to 1904, with boom times in the 1960s that were kick-started by the tireless legal and lobbying work of Dr. Rolf Portmann, an Oris executive (and honorary chairman today), whose efforts led to overturning the Swiss Watch Statute in 1966 that had prevented Oris and many other brands from using Swiss lever escapements in their watch movements. Some 60 years later, Oris is marking that milestone with its Star Edition, an updated version of the Star, the first Oris watch to use a Swiss lever escapement after the law was changed. Portmann and Ulrich Herzog (now the Chairman) went on to lead a management buyout of Oris in 1982, which solidified the company's position as an independent brand. Studer, who has been co-CEO since 2016 and was appointed CEO last month, discusses Oris' positioning and strategy in the current market, where the strong Swiss franc is challenging it and fellow watchmakers. Oris has responded with models that not only offer value to customers but also draw on its storied history and the unique community culture it has fostered. Studer makes the case for why crafted mechanical objects like a Swiss-made watch can deliver the satisfaction and joy that come only from a considered, well-made product, and for how Oris remains committed to making watches and operating in ways that continually express its considered, deeply held values. But first, Hodinkee editor TanTan Wang pops in to talk about Oris and give a brief debrief from Watches and Wonders, noting some of the highlights from the industry's biggest and most important gathering, including offerings from Chopard and Cartier.  Show Notes  1:45 Photo Report The Sights, Watches, And Style Of Watches & Wonders 2026  2:14 Business News: Watches And Wonders Attendance Climbs Despite Geo-Politics And Economic Challenges As Brands Make Case For Value  2:30 Cartier Celebrates 10 Editions of Privé With Six New Editions  3:42 Introducing: The Vacheron Constantin Overseas Dual Time Cardinal Points  3:49 Hands-On: The Chopard L.U.C 1860 In Aeruse Blue  4:43 Introducing: Parmigiani Fleurier Tonda PF Chronograph Mystérieux 'Mineral Blue' Reinvents The Central-Counter Chronograph  7:50 Introducing: Oris Star Edition Celebrates A Turning Point In The Brand's History  11:38 Introducing: The Oris Artelier Complication, A Dress Watch Redesigned For A New Generation  16:04 In-Depth: A Visit to Hölstein, The City That Oris Built   19:31 Waldenburg, Switzerland (Wikipedia)  22:19 The Swiss Watch Statute And Dr. Ralph Portmann (Oris)  34:18 Oris and independence with the Bullseye Big Crown Pointer Date(Instagram)   37:11 Prices, Volumes, And Passion: The Business Of Watches In 2025 And What To Expect In 2026  37:40 Oris Calibre 400  39:08 Swiss franc x USD   40:15 The Swiss - Artisans of Time (Swiss Confederation)  42:42 ASUAG (Wikipedia)  43:04 Oris History including ownership changes (Federation of the Swiss Watch Industry)  55:49 The Oris Yangtze Jiangtun Limited Edition

It's the final podcast of the fair, and Tim Jeffreys is joined by Andy Hoffman and Jamie Weiss. The discussion kicks off with the official launch of Hodinkee Australia, exploring the region's unique, outdoorsy collecting culture, and moves on to some new watches, including Norqain’s whimsical "Sprinkles" chronograph and Ulysse Nardin’s technically mind-blowing Super Freak. The team also chats about Audemars Piguet's return to the fair, Zenith's first-ever tantalum watch, the Laurent Ferrier Sport Traveler, and some high-value picks from Frederique Constant and Sinn. Thanks to Bugari for their support of this episode of Hodinkee Podcast. For more, visit Bulgari.com

We’re three days into the show, and Tim is joined by Tantan and Andy to chat about some interesting evening events and the latest releases from JLC, Moser, Lange, and more. Thanks to Bugari for their support of this episode of Hodinkee Podcast. For more, visit Bulgari.com

To cap off an exciting day 2 at Watches and Wonders, Ben, Malaika, and James chat about the latest releases from Vacheron Constantin, IWC, Grand Seiko, Oris, Lange, and a few additional models from Rolex. From old-school throwbacks to the dual timers and divers we’ve been begging for, it’s a broad mix of great watches announced this week in Geneva. Thanks to Bugari for their support of this episode of Hodinkee Podcast. For more, visit Bulgari.com

It's the first day of the fair in Geneva, and James is joined by Ben and Tim to chat over the brand new releases from Rolex – including the new enamel-dialed 126502 Daytona – as well as Patek's offering for the 50th anniversary of the Nautilus, some curiosities, and line extensions from Tudor as the brand celebrates 100 years, and all that glitters (and is Privé) from Cartier. Also, as a special treat, Ben and Andy Hoffman sit down with Matthieu Humair, the CEO of the Watches and Wonders Geneva Foundation, for a mini-episode of The Business of Watches. The trio chats about how the fair has evolved for 2026,  the local program in Geneva, and more. Special thanks to Bulgari for their support of this episode. Learn more at Bulgari.com. 

This week on The Business of Watches, we're in Geneva marking 50 years of Raymond Weil and an in-depth conversation with Chief Executive Officer, Elie Bernheim. At a time when much of the market is premiumizing and moving upscale, Raymond Weil is leaning in to its value-driven, Swiss-made heritage, producing approachable-priced timepieces that celebrate half a century of watchmaking and design. Bernheim gives us a rundown of the brand's history, and talks about the "The Fifty", a limited edition version of its wildly popular Millesime that utilizes a new-old-stock Valjoux chronograph caliber from 1976 (of course). There's also a touring exhibition of heritage museum pieces highlighting some of the brand's most compelling watch designs, and, breaking news - they're opening a new Raymond Weil boutique in Geneva's Old Town, giving the company retail presence in the heart of the city that is the center of Switzerland's watch industry. It's a milestone year for the brand, and Bernheim gives us the insight as to how Raymond Weil has met the challenges and stayed relevant to become a critical part of the industry landscape. Building on the recent success of the Millesime collection, the company is positioning itself for another half-century and beyond.  But first Ben Clymer stops by to talk about what is probably the biggest new watch release so far this year, Rexhep Rexhepi's new flyback chronograph, the RRCHF. Ben tells us how this timepiece raises the bar and sets a new standard for independent watchmakers. He talks about pricing and how the chronograph compares to some of the other most important names in fine watchmaking. It's bonus content on top of his 6,000-word in-depth take on the RRCHF.  Show Notes  1:40 In-Depth: The Rexhep Rexhepi Chronograph Flyback (RRCHF) Ben Clymer Hodinkee 2:53 The Rexhep Rexhepi Chronograph Flyback (RRCHF) As Explained By Rexhep Rexhepi (YouTube Hodinkee) 4:50 Introducing: The A. Lange & Söhne 1815 Chronograph With Black Dial (Live Pics & Pricing) (Hodinkee) 5:01 First Photos: The Patek Philippe 5172G Hand-Wound Chronograph 8:00 Five questions to Elie Bernheim, Raymond Weil CEO 8:50 The Story Of an Independent Watchmaker Raymond Weil 14:23 Raymond Weil: The Legacy Tour 15:20 Introducing: The Fifty From Raymond Weil Celebrates The Brand's Semicentennial By Offering A Piece Of The Past (Hodinkee) 17:30 Hands-On: Did Raymond Weil Really Make A Watch For Watch Enthusiasts? (Hodinkee) 20:45 Introducing: The Raymond Weil Toccata Heritage Brings Classic Shaped Watch Elegance At An Approachable Price (Live Pics) (Hodinkee) 21:42 Business News: Rolex And Cartier Are In Another League – A Deep Dive On The Pains And Gains In Morgan Stanley's "Swiss Watcher" Report (Hodinkee) 29:15 As China Retreats And The U.S. Wobbles, Is India The Next Great Hope For The Luxury Watch Market?

There is already a bevy of alternatives or side venues to the mighty Watches and Wonders, taking place during what's now known as Geneva Watch Week. Maxime Couturier and Lorenzo Maillard expect there's room for one more. They're the guys behind Chronopolis, a new gathering space in downtown Geneva that's promising to give profile to the 20 or so brands participating during what's arguably the most important week of the year for the industry.  Armed with a hipster watch enthusiast persona, Couturier, Maillard, and their crew of dealers, collectors, and friends, embody what makes the watch scene cool and fun in Geneva. Now they're trying to bring that same attitude to Chronopolis with brands paying for the privilege of being part of their scene. In a discussion ahead of the show, we discuss why there's a need for yet another watch fair and what's the best way to get young people excited about watches.  But first, Hodinkee Senior Editor Mark Kauzlarich has covered plenty of watch fairs in his time, and he drops in to discuss the current state of industry trade shows and salons. We discuss where they're headed and how they're adapting to the current realities and demands of collectors and enthusiasts.  Show Notes:  4:46 Furlan Marri  4:58 Hazemann & Monnin Wins The Second Edition Of The Louis Vuitton Watch Prize For Independent Creatives (Hodinkee)  6:35 Time To Watches  7:10 AHCI  10:10 Chronopolis Independent Watch Fair  12:00 Marché de Plainpalais (Ville de Genève)  14:05 Heist Out (Instagram)  16:40 Area 51 (Sotheby's and Heist Out Auction)  19:20 Watches and Wonders  19:53 ApresDemain Agency  21:01 Hegid  24:43 Tom DuCarouge  32:18 Breda  38:13 Watches and Culture (FHH) 

This week on The Business of Watches, we get to the heart of what makes a mechanical or quartz-powered watch tick. Jean-Claude Eggen is the Chief Executive Officer of La Joux-Perret, a Swiss movement manufacturer that's on the rise as it competes with rivals, including Sellita, as a supplier to brands ranging from mainstream mass market players such as TAG Heuer to upstart micro-brands, including Kollokium.  Eggen doesn't pull punches when discussing what's driving growth at LJP as he talks prices, movement development, and technology, and how to keep clients coming back. LJP has experienced massive increases in volumes and production under his leadership since 2020. From fewer than 10,000 movements annually less than a decade ago, LJP is now producing about 200,000 watch movements a year. He tells us how they got here and where they might go next, with new products boasting greater precision and smaller movements in both quartz and mechanical.  But first, a good news initiative about a new non-profit organization in Switzerland that's looking to give young watchmakers the skills and machines they need to carry on the metiers d' art (or specialized skills) that make high-end watchmaking so unique. Baudouin van Es is the young man behind Tad Kozh, and he drops by to tell us what the new program is and where it gets its unusual name. Van Es has convinced some heavy hitters to help out with Tad Kozh, gathering a who's who of industry artisans, craftspersons, and veteran business executives to oversee and govern the program, with some exciting watch collaborations to come. Show Notes  2:30 Tad Kozh 2:40 Tourbillon Watch (Beaudouin van Es) 3:05 Brittany region of France (Wikipedia) 5:26 Metier d'art in watchmaking (The Watch Pages) 6:50 Tad Kohz New Talent Award 8:04 Schaublin 70 Lathe in Action (YouTube) 8:05 Hauser Jig Boring machine (Exapro)  8:20 Luc Monnet (Europa star) 9:09 Jean-François Mojon (WorldTempus) 9:19 Pietro Tomajer (Monochrome) 10:30 Tad Kozh collaborations 14:07 Anita Porchet (FHH) 15:01 Ressence Watches 17:49 Théo Auffret (Hodinkee) 20:50 Max Büsser (Talking Watches Hodinkee) 21:17 Marc André Deschoux 21:44 Alex Ghotbi (Phillips) 21:44 Roy Davidoff (Instagram) 21:57 Guillaume Tetu (The Naked Watchmaker) 28:20 Jean-Claude Eggen (Dubai Watch Week bio) 28:57 La Joux-Perret 32:32 ETA (Wikipedia) 32:45 Sellita 33:40  LJP G100 34:10 Business News: Switzerland's COSC Unveils 'Excellence Chronometer' Level Of Certification (Hodinkee) 40:34 TAG Heuer Introduces The Formula One Solargraph (Hodinkee) 41:06 Business News: LVMH Buys Minority Stake In Swiss Movement Maker La Joux-Perret From Japan's Citizen Group (Hodinkee) 42:10 Citizen Group 43:06 Alpina Alpiner Solarmetre 44:10 Let The Sun Shine In: There's A New Day Rising for Solar-Powered Watches (Watchonista)

This week on The Business of Watches, a Swiss brand that resonates with much of the Hodinkee community, Doxa. Founded in Le Locle, Switzerland, and now based in Biel/Bienne, it has more than a century of history and is responsible for designing and producing some of the most iconic dive watches ever built. With links to legendary figures, including Jacques Cousteau and author Clive Cussler, Doxa has served as a case study for how to revive, rebuild, and grow a brand by zeroing in on the best parts of its story while keeping prices approachable at a time when the industry trend is tilted very much to premiumization. Jan Edocs is the executive leading Doxa these days, and in a wide-ranging interview recorded last year, he lays out the brand's plans for measured but steady growth. Once available only online, Doxa is now in retailers across the U.S., Japan, the Middle East, and Australia, with plans to eventually be in more than 300 retail locations.  At a time of cost inflation and tariffs, a significant challenge is keeping prices approachable while telling Doxa's unique story and history to fresh customers with new products. There are plenty of lessons on how to position a brand and company to weather both storms and sunny beach days, where a Doxa might just be the ideal wristwear.  But first, Hodinkee Deputy Editor Tim Jeffreys drops in for his BoW debut. We talk about Grand Seiko's big move to sign baseball superstar Shohei Ohtani as a global ambassador and what it might mean for the brand.  Show Notes  1:30 Tim Jeffreys  4:46 Shohei Ohtani Joins Grand Seiko As A Global Ambassador  7:41 Akio Naito and Munehisa Shibasaki On Grand Seiko In America And The Future Of All Things Seiko (Hodinkee)  10:04 Jan Edocs, CEO of Doxa   11:40 Doxa History  12:56 Jenny Watches may be a Brand you've Never Heard of, but it's left a Significant Mark on Dive Watch History (Monochrome)  14:22 Walca Watches  16:19 Doxawatches.com  21:05 The Incredible Calypso: Jacques Cousteau's Crazy Exploration Vessel (Calum YouTube)  21:50 Introducing The Doxa Sub 300T Clive Cussler Special Edition (Live Pics) (Hodinkee)  23:30 The Doxa Sub 200 (Hodinkee)  43:00 CHFxUSD 44:20 Watchmaking in Biel/Bienne (Swiss Tourism)  47:36 The Doxa SUB 250 Ahmed Seddiqi 75th Anniversary Limited Edition (Monochrome)  49:00 Introducing Doxa Sub 300 Carbon Seafoam Limited Edition (Hodinkee)  1:07:45 The Doxa Sub 200T – A Smaller Take On The Classic Doxa Design