Die, Workwear! - Derek and Peter AMA - Vol 3

Derek Guy and Peter Zottolo return for the third installment of their quarterly AMA series, generously sponsored by our friends at Bezel. This time, they go deep on fabric: navy sport coats, green double-breasted suits, the five tweeds they would choose from scratch, and the right cloth for a balmacaan. They also revisit bespoke mistakes, the tailors still on their wish lists, shoes for serious walking, the difference between personal style and costume, and what actually reads from across the room. Plus: date-night clothes without tailoring, keeping pet hair off your wardrobe, finding occasions to wear the clothes you already own, the appeal of authentic workwear, their favorite versions of menswear staples, and why the person you imagine in the mirror may not be the person everyone else sees. They close by designing the elusive middle-ground jacket—dressier than a chore coat, easier than a sport coat, and made for the romantic life of a writer. * Sponsored by Bezel - the trusted marketplace for buying, selling, or insuring your next luxury watch  ** Fabric Recommendations Navy Sport Coat Derek’s Picks: Holland & Sherry Mesh & Hopsack Blazers Huddersfield or Smiths Mock Leno Harrison Spring Ram stitched hopsack Holland & Sherry cashmere doeskin Hainsworth doeskin Fox serge Peter’s Picks: Hopsack or similar Spring Ram 16oz for fall/winter or Finmeresco 12oz for summer, I have experience with Moorhouse and while it’s much softer it’s too prone to fraying Green double-breasted suit in the South Derek’s Picks: Harrisons Spring Ram Huddersfield Fine Worsted Super Gaberdine Peter’s Picks: Spring Ram 12oz if you can stand it, or Isca 8oz if you can’t.  Bear in mind that Isca is 55/45 linen/wool so it won’t be as crisp as Spring Ram.  If you want a stiffer suit try Cape Kid 60/40 wool-mohair  Five Tweeds Derek’s Picks Brown Molloy & Sons Donegal (or Holland & Sherry for something softer) Gray glen check Fox tweed Something brown from W. Bill like a basic glen check or gun club Lovat Kirkton 523 Lovat Kirkton 502 Peter’s Picks: For sportcoats, I prefer softer tweeds (Shetland, lambswool, even hairy faux tweeds such as Moonbeam or Sherry Tweed) as opposed to stiff & scratchy (Harris, gamekeeper, Hartwist, Thornproof).   Porter & Harding Glenroyal True POW Brown, Dark Brown, Green & Tan Dogtooth Brown with green & red check W Bill Grey shetland herringbone Holland & Sherry Sherry Tweed either Brown w/hazelnut/blue check or Brown w/chestnut/blue mock glen check Balmacaan to wear with jeans Derek’s Picks: W. Bill Classic Coatings Marling & Evans undyed wool (or this check) VBC Hope and Archive Overcoat Holland & Sherry overcoat Lovat Ettrick (as seen at Paul Stuart Japan) Harrisons cashmere overcoating Peter’s Picks W.Bill Classic Coatings or Irish Donegal Lint Brushes Article at Put This On Best Of M43 is vintage  Chore coat was Jack/Knife (RIP) – hand-hammered rivets and leather backs, single stitching everywhere, perfect fit, until you grow out of it OCBD is Kamakura – replication of old BB and good fabrics Chino - I only have one pair from Buck Mason, the paperback Jeans are either Strike Gold 5103 slub jean ( crazy fades) or Buck Mason Full Saddle Tees are Buck Mason Field Spec Chambray shirt is Brycelands USN Perfect chambray shirt Western shirt is Stevenson Overall Co Cody Hosted by Simplecast, an AdsWizz company. See pcm.adswizz.com for information about our collection and use of personal data for advertising.

Ian Ousley joins Jeremy from Madrid for a conversation about clothes, acting, and the long process of becoming yourself. Ian talks about relocating to Vancouver to film Avatar: The Last Airbender, how the city’s weather and retail scene changed the way he dressed, and what he learned shopping for archive fashion in Tokyo. Plus,  stories about Raf Simons, Ann Demeulemeester, a nearly 15-pound Panasonic camera jacket, the Rolling Dub Trio boots he waited all day to buy, and the era when a bright red Supreme beanie felt essential. They also trace Ian’s path from wholesale vintage and his former LA shop, KALÓ SOIL. They dig into how taste and skill develop at different speeds, and what every artist has to make first. * Sponsored by Bezel - the trusted marketplace for buying and selling your next luxury watch Hosted by Simplecast, an AdsWizz company. See pcm.adswizz.com for information about our collection and use of personal data for advertising.

Sondre Lerche has been writing songs for most of his life. He released his debut Faces Down more than two decades ago, and somehow, eleven albums later, he’s still finding ways to make the whole thing feel new. We talk about his new record Acrobats, spending years rewriting a single song, falling in love in a world that can make happiness feel almost irresponsible, and what performing 130 shows of *Moulin Rouge!* taught him about singing, acting, and pushing himself somewhere completely unfamiliar. We also get into getting older, vanity, learning to let go of how other people see you, his lifelong style obsession, the influence of A-ha’s Morten Harket, vintage clothes, Ralph Lauren, and why some of his earliest songs are harder for him to revisit than others. * Sponsored by Bezel - the trusted marketplace for buying and selling your next luxury watch Hosted by Simplecast, an AdsWizz company. See pcm.adswizz.com for information about our collection and use of personal data for advertising.

John Darnielle is the songwriter, author, and frontman of The Mountain Goats, one of the most influential independent bands of the past three decades. What began as Darnielle recording songs on a Panasonic boombox in the early '90s has grown into a beloved catalog spanning more than 20 albums, earning a devoted following for its literary songwriting and deeply human stories. John joins me to talk about the band's new album, Days, and why he's finally allowing himself to look back on a career that's always been focused on what's next. We get into aging without becoming nostalgic, why every act of creation is ultimately hopeful, and what it means to see your own life—and your parents' lives—with fresh eyes. We also chat about Randy Newman, the bands that shaped him, grief, faith, songwriting, influence versus imitation, and why the days really are short.Listen to Days * Sponsored by Bezel - the trusted marketplace for buying and selling your next luxury watch Hosted by Simplecast, an AdsWizz company. See pcm.adswizz.com for information about our collection and use of personal data for advertising.

Patreon Preview from Blamo! The Wardrobe Budget series reaches its completely reasonable and financially responsible conclusion: What would we buy if we had $50,000 to rebuild our wardrobes from scratch? Yes, 50K. (You asked for it!) Peter and Derek use the fantasy budget to talk about the clothes they love most, from exceptional outerwear and bespoke tailoring to workwear, shoes, and accessories. Before that, they consider Emily Segal’s concept of “tasteslop” and whether good taste can exist without cultural context. They close with a new round of tailoring, footwear, photography, and other recent discoveries in Hey, Nice Pants. ** Listen to the FULL episode on the Blamo! Patreon  Hosted by Simplecast, an AdsWizz company. See pcm.adswizz.com for information about our collection and use of personal data for advertising.

Adrian DZA has had about five different careers, and somehow all of them make sense. DJ, party promoter, skate shop owner, creative, and now co-founder of Very Special, Adrian has spent the last two decades building businesses rooted in taste rather than trends. We talk about growing up between Paris and Miami, the early days of Peachfuzz, how Very Special became one of the most respected names in vintage watches, why community matters more than hype, and what it was like to go from collecting Stone Island to starring in one of the brand's campaigns. We also get into vintage watches, records, cars, fatherhood, and why the best careers rarely follow a straight line. * Sponsored by Bezel - the trusted marketplace for buying and selling your next luxury watch Hosted by Simplecast, an AdsWizz company. See pcm.adswizz.com for information about our collection and use of personal data for advertising.

Patreon Preview from Blamo! The Wardrobe Series continues with a bigger challenge: rebuilding a wardrobe with a $12,000 budget. With more room to spend, Derek and Peter debate where to invest, what’s worth upgrading, and whether one exceptional piece should take up a third of the entire budget. The result is two highly personal wardrobes—and two very different ideas about what “buy less, buy better” actually means. Along the way, they discuss Peter’s upcoming trip to London and Inis Meáin, vintage dressing, and some truly indestructible belts. ** Listen to the FULL episode on the Blamo! Patreon  Hosted by Simplecast, an AdsWizz company. See pcm.adswizz.com for information about our collection and use of personal data for advertising.

BONUS EPISODE!Leica is much more than cameras. This week I’m joined by Karin Rehn-Kaufmann, Art Director and Chief Representative of Leica Galleries International, for a conversation about photography, memory, art, and why certain images stay with us. We talk about the emotional side of photography, why perfection isn’t the goal, how Leica thinks about galleries as places for community, what social media has changed (and what it hasn’t), collecting versus appreciating art, and why printing your photographs still matters. A fun little bonus episode for anyone who loves photography—or has ever wondered what makes Leica, well… Leica. Hosted by Simplecast, an AdsWizz company. See pcm.adswizz.com for information about our collection and use of personal data for advertising.

Jon Klassen makes children’s books, but this isn’t really a conversation about children’s books. Jon recently won the Astrid Lindgren Memorial Award (one of the biggest honors in children’s literature), and we start there before getting into what makes his work so compelling in the first place. We talk about why he leaves space for readers instead of explaining everything, how kids are smarter than we often give them credit for, the value of ambiguity, and why making work for yourself is usually the only way to make something honest. And of course, we get into running, menswear, Studio Ghibli, Maurice Sendak, creative insecurity, and the weird pressure of trying to make good work over and over again. Jon's acceptance speech * Sponsored by Bezel - the trusted marketplace for buying and selling your next luxury watch Hosted by Simplecast, an AdsWizz company. See pcm.adswizz.com for information about our collection and use of personal data for advertising.

Joe Wengert is a comedian, writer, and actor whose work spans Comedy Bang! Bang!, The Onion, and Big Mouth. But this conversation isn’t really about comedy. Joe joins me to talk about getting older, making new friends, becoming a parent, and the strange process of trying to hold onto who you are while continuing to grow. We discuss his new animated series Kevin, co-created with Aubrey Plaza, why game nights matter more than ever, the terror of becoming a hat guy, and how a night guard can become an unexpected symbol of middle age. * Sponsored by Bezel - the trusted marketplace for buying and selling your next luxury watch Hosted by Simplecast, an AdsWizz company. See pcm.adswizz.com for information about our collection and use of personal data for advertising.