The Wine Makers – Brian London: 4Play Wines & Table Culture Provisions

This week the crew sits down with Brian London, Sommelier and wine buyer for one of Sonoma County’s most beloved spots, Table Culture Provisions. Known for its eclectic and adventurous wine list, TCP has become a favorite among locals and winemakers alike — and Brian is the man behind its carefully curated selections. After falling in love with France during a trip with his fiancée, Brian began importing small-production wines to the States, eventually launching 4Play Wines, a boutique distributorship focused on producers with meticulous farming practices and distinct personalities. He shares stories from his travels, insights into sourcing hidden gems, and even kicks things off by pouring a 2014 Beaujolais and some White Burgundy — instantly winning over the hosts. Plus, a special drop-in from Isabel Gassier wraps up this lively and wine-soaked conversation. [Ep 389] @tcprovisions | @4playwines | @isabelgassierwine

Will Gondak has been chasing the dream. Experiences making wine in Napa, Sonoma, Australia, New Zealand, France, Santa Cruz, and South Africa have broadened his view into what is possible. The wide array of hands-on experience accompanied by the study of winemaking and viticulture at both Cal Poly, San Luis Obispo and Napa Valley College has yielded one curious wine nerd. Will has been calling Sonoma County home since 2015 and is looking forward to his 18th harvest in 2025. A full-time side hustle, Gondak Cellars was established in 2015. Will spends the majority of his work time helping make wines for several other brands while slowly building Gondak Cellars. [Ep 388] gondakcellars.com @gondakcellars

This week the guys sit down with Matt McDermaid, owner and winemaker at Staysail Wines, a small-lot Sonoma County winery inspired by his background in sailing. The name “Staysail” refers to a sail used to adjust for shifting conditions—much like how Matt adapts to each unique vintage. With deep family roots in the wine world (his aunt and uncle run GlenLyon Vineyards & Winery in Glen Ellen), Matt built his own path, earning an MBA in Wine Business from Sonoma State and studying winemaking at UC Davis. After hands-on experience at Meeker Vineyard, he launched Staysail with a focus on low-intervention wines sourced from organically and regeneratively farmed vineyards. He’s thoughtful, funny, and passionate—and yes, he managed to score some fruit from Rossi Ranch this year. Keep an eye out for those bottles, and definitely grab some Staysail while you can. [Ep 387] Staysailwines.com @staysail_cellars

This week, the crew sits down with Brandon Conley, head distiller at Brucato Amaro in San Francisco, for what could be called an Amaro 101—or maybe an Amaro Study. Amaros have a long, fascinating history, evolving from regional tonics and medicinal tinctures into spirits that connect cultures. Before large-scale production, these bitter liqueurs were hyper-local, crafted from whatever produce and native plants grew nearby. Brucato carries on that tradition today with small-batch amaros that showcase the bounty of California. From sun-ripened citrus to wild foraged herbs, each ingredient is thoughtfully sourced to create a distinctive taste of place. The conversation also covers the exciting new experiences at Brucato. Since April, visitors have been welcomed for tours and tastings, and Bar Brucato now serves fresh, seasonal dishes paired with cocktails that highlight the distillery’s unique amaros. [Ep 386] Learn more at brucatospirits.com

The crew is back together again, and this week they’re catching up after International Grenache Day. They share memories from the celebration, dig into the challenges of this year’s harvest, and get Brian’s perspective on the London wine scene. Bart also offers a heartfelt and important PSA about his recent health scare. It’s a mix of stories, insights, and reflections that remind us why wine is about more than just what’s in the glass. [Ep 385]

Justin Harmon didn’t set out to be a winemaker, but the journey found him anyway. After studying in Philadelphia and working as a chemical engineer, he returned to Chicago in his mid-20s to pursue software engineering. Somewhere in between coding and commuting, his love for wine began to take over. What started as the occasional bottle at dinner soon filled his apartment closets, and weekends were spent roaming Chicago wine shops, devouring books, tastings, and seminars, with every trip planned around a vineyard visit. Curiosity eventually pulled him out of the tasting room and into the cellar. By 2005, Justin was in Sonoma County for his first harvest, followed by internships in 2006 and 2007 that gave him a hands-on education in the craft. Not long after, the chance to buy grapes and ferment them in a professional winery presented itself, leading to the very first bottling under his own label: Argot Wines. Today, Justin blends science, passion, and a relentless curiosity into every bottle. His story is proof that sometimes obsession really does lead to a calling. [Ep 384] argotwines.com @argotwines

We love stories like this. Two neighbors bond over their shared love of wine, make some in their garage, then decide to put in a vineyard. With no formal training but a passion for Rhone varietals, they pushed ahead. While walking their dogs, they “spied” on their neighbors’ vineyards and gleaned information from friends and local wineries. The wines have purity and clarity to them, no over extraction or excessive oak treatment. “Our vineyards, located in the Middle Reach neighborhood of the Russian River Valley, just south of Healdsburg, are ideal for growing Rhone varietals. Benefitting from the effects of the river the AVA is famous for, we also see the largest diurnal temperature swings that provide richness and depth of flavor to our fruit without excessive sugars. Crux Winery is a Rhone specialist focused on crafting alluring wines made from meticulously nurtured fruit grown in our sustainably cultivated vineyards. Each bottle tells a story of the valley’s terroir, the vintage, and the varietal.” [Ep 383] @cruxwinery Cruxwinery.com

The team looks back at the recent S.O.R.B.E.T. tasting at Fort Mason, sharing highlights and feedback from the event. They also tackle listener questions ranging from winemaking to cellar tips, and reveal their favorite wines tasted so far this year. A lively mix of reflection, advice, and personal picks straight from the vineyard to your glass. [Ep 382]

This week Bart, Sam, and Danielle sit down for a long-awaited conversation with Chris Renfro, the visionary behind The Two Eighty Project and much more. The project began in 2020, when a neglected vineyard along San Francisco’s 280 freeway more or less fell into his lap. Amid the trials and turmoil of that year, Chris took it upon himself to revive roughly 65 vines that had been left for dead. As the vineyard grew, so did The Two Eighty Project’s mission: creating meaningful access to viticulture and wine for communities of color and other groups historically excluded from the industry. The soil of Alemany Farm — and Chris’s little vineyard-that-could — became a seedbed for social and racial equity in wine. Today, in addition to running the 280 Project and its vibrant apprenticeship program, Chris is making wine from grape varieties native to North America, hunting for forgotten vines and vineyards around San Francisco and beyond, and running one of the city’s hottest new wine shops, Friend of a Friend. This one’s got it all — inspiration, ingenuity, and indigenous grapes. [Ep 381] @280Project @friendoffriendsf

Matt Crafton took over the white wine program at Chateau Montelena in 2010, then became head winemaker in 2014. The rich history of the Chateau and the part it played in the "Judgement of Paris", cementing the New World's place on the wine map is discussed, but we went deeper in this conversation. Spend five minutes with Matt and you can tell why Bo Barrett put him in charge, with very little oversight. Matt understands the history of this iconic winery but is more focused on where they are going today. There is no tangible "style" of their wines, every vintage is an opportunity to create the best wine ever, always with an intention to age. Most consumers know them for the Chardonnay and Cab, but the Zinfandel and Riesling are a mainstay available only at the winery. There may even be some bubbles coming down the road, a celebration of 50 years is on the horizon, something deserving of a "pop". [Ep 380] @chmontelena