EP 293: Joel Unema — Unlocking V14 Finger Strength, the Key to Long Roof Boulders, and a Better Way to Train Power Endurance

Sam Watson is the current world record holder in speed climbing (4.64 seconds) and an Olympic Bronze medalist. We talked about breaking the world record in Paris, how he makes a living, building a social media following in China, the future potential of speed climbing, recovery routines and tools, chess, favorite books, airport stoicism, and more. Free Masterclass (Unlock Your Full Potential in Climbing) 👉 http://masterclass.thenuggetclimbing.com Show Notes: http://thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/sam-watson Nuggets: (00:00:00) – Intro (00:01:38) – Winter Olympics (00:05:48) – Breaking the World Record in Paris (00:14:20) – Winning Bronze in Paris (00:25:50) – LA Olympics (00:30:11) – How Sam makes a living (00:34:49) – Building a following in China (00:38:40) – Different speed formats (00:42:38) – Pro Climbing League (00:51:15) – Sam’s intro to speed climbing (01:12:35) – Sam’s future career arc (01:20:48) – Recovery routines & tools (01:24:15) – Journaling & Chris Sharma (01:29:31) – The culture of speed climbing (01:32:08) – The potential of speed (01:38:43) – Speed Classic (01:40:42) – Sam’s potential & the 0.1 rule (01:46:03) – Sub 6 for the women (01:47:33) – Hobbies & books (01:51:23) – Sam’s upcoming goals (01:52:08) – Airport stoicism (01:53:34) – Where to find Sam

Melissa Strong is a boulderer and restaurateur based in Estes Park, CO, who nearly lost her life in an electrocution accident in April 2017. We talked about her accident, what she experienced on the other side of the veil, having her arms sewn together, what climbing was like before and after the accident, skin graft DNA, the healing process of writing Climbing Through, and much more. You can learn more about Melissa at melissaistrong.com Buy Her Book: Climbing Through: A Courageous Story of Grit, Healing, and Second Chances by Melissa Strong Show Notes: http://thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/melissa-strong Nuggets: (00:00:00) – Intro (00:01:40) – Melissa’s hands (00:04:54) – Life before her accident (00:09:05) – The accident (00:14:56) – The Forest & The Tunnel (00:30:55) – Arms sewn together (00:47:25) – Climbing before & after the accident (00:58:29) – Skin graft DNA (01:00:20) – The expiration date of climbing (01:08:34) – What comes after climbing (01:14:40) – Writing her book (01:21:03) – What’s next (01:24:46) – Where to buy the book (01:26:13) – How Bird & Jim got its name

Joel Unema is a high-performance rock climber and coach for Climb Strong, and has climbed V14 and 5.14b. We talked about how Tyler Nelson helped him unlock V14 finger strength, how Steve Bechtel helped him send a 20+ move roof boulder, how to optimize your power endurance for a sport climbing trip, and much more. Buckle up for a good old-fashioned training chat. The Nugget Training App (14-Day Free Trial) 👉 http://training.thenuggetclimbing.com FREE Finger Training PDF 👉 thenuggetclimbing.com/grinds The NUG 👉 https://frictitiousclimbing.com/products/the-nug Show Notes: http://thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/joel-unema Nuggets: (00:00:00) – Intro (00:02:00) – Hurricave (00:04:37) – Dirtbike crash (00:07:22) – Balance vs. compromise (00:12:30) – The bigger picture (00:16:22) – Joel’s breakthrough season (00:22:43) – Finger Training with Tyler Nelson (00:37:20) – Roof Training with Steve Bechtel (00:46:51) – Ice cube moments (00:58:58) – Hi-Low (01:05:53) – Training for a sport climbing trip (01:11:54) – Pacing & metabolic specificity (01:15:45) – Training for a sport climbing trip continued (01:18:10) – Riding the rollercoaster (01:26:18) – Floor & ceiling (01:35:55) – Achievement to experience (01:39:00) – Strength training (01:45:39) – My Hueco goals (01:49:03) – Joel’s goals (01:52:13) – The Teacup (01:56:03) – Wrap up

Today, I am resharing one of the most valuable episodes I have ever recorded. This episode with Tom Randall was originally aired on Patreon in Feb, 2022. We talked about how to use your friends to discover your strengths and weaknesses, how to work backward from goals, how long it takes to make major changes in your climbing, like switching from bouldering to sport climbing, and much more. Don’t skip this episode if you are a self-coached climber.The Nugget Training App (14-Day Free Trial) 👉 http://training.thenuggetclimbing.comThe NUG 👉 https://frictitiousclimbing.com/products/the-nugKey Takeaways PDF 👉 https://thenuggetclimbing.squarespace.com/s/Key-Takeaways_Updated.pdfFull Show Notes  👉 thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/tom-randall-repost-from-patreon 

Charlie Boscoe is a former IFSC commentator, writer, and co-founder of the Pro Climbing League, a bold new head-to-head bouldering series debuting on February 28. We talked about his first experience in the outdoors, why Janja Garnbret and Adam Ondra are the G.O.A.T.s, and why climbing competitions are about to get a lot more exciting. You can learn more at proclimbing.comThe Nugget Training App 👉 http://training.thenuggetclimbing.comShow Notes:  thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/charlie-boscoeNuggets:(00:00:00) – Intro(00:02:48) – The perfect phrase(00:10:55) – Hooked on climbing(00:15:49) – The impermanence of achievements(00:22:56) – Commentating(00:26:01) – Janja Garnbret & Adam Ondra(00:30:39) – IFSC Broadcasting(00:34:11) – Pro Climbing League(00:45:50) – Adjustable comp walls(00:48:44) – Can two climbs be identical?(00:53:59) – The viewing experience(01:02:07) – Goals for PCL(01:06:22) – Logistical challenges(01:11:04) – The first comp (London, Feb 28)(01:13:06) – Broncos, Seahawks, Mariners(01:17:29) – Wrap up

Chris Schulte is an elite boulderer known for bold first ascents, compression mastery, and a thoughtful approach that prioritizes style over grades. We talked about his evolution as a climber, developing his own style, how Fred Nicole inspired him, redefining progress with age, tips for compression problems and wide cracks, and the state of elite bouldering and cutting-edge grades.Increase Your Finger Strength by 10% 👉 http://training.thenuggetclimbing.comDownload My Finger Training PDF 👉 http://thenuggetclimbing.com/grindsSupport on Patreon 👉 http://patreon.com/thenuggetclimbingShow Notes:  thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/chris-schulteNuggets:(00:00:00) – Intro(00:01:13) – Being an introvert(00:13:49) – Becoming a boulderer(00:24:56) – First ascents vs. repeating(00:37:09) – Climbing in Yosemite(00:47:00) – How Chris developed his climbing style(00:51:28) – Fred Nichol's inspiration(01:11:25) – Putting brakes on grades(01:33:02) – What drives Chris & what progress looks like(01:40:20) – How climbing has changed with age(01:50:37) – The Big Island(01:51:56) – Pairing projects(01:55:31) – Compression climbs(01:59:16) – Elbow tendonitis(02:03:08) – What makes for a beautiful line(02:08:51) – Best V10+ compression in the Front Range(02:14:28) – Tips on wide cracks(02:18:43) – Where Chris would like to climb next

Christian Beckwith is the former editor of The American Alpine Journal and Alpinist Magazine, and the creator of the award-winning podcast, Ninety-Pound Rucksack. We talked about the formation of the 10th Mountain Division in WW2, the breaking of Hitler’s Gothic Line, stories of mountain gorilla warfare, gear innovations that changed climbing forever, and much more. You can listen to Christian’s podcast at christianbeckwith.comThe Nugget Training App | 3 NEW Bouldering Programs (14-Day Free Trial)thenuggetclimbing.com/app-boulderingMad Rock (Shoes & Crash Pads)madrock.comUse code “NUGGET10” at checkout for 10% off your next order.Rúngne (Chalk & Apparel)rungne.info/nuggetUse code “NUGGET" for 10% off and "SHIPPINGNUGGETS" for free shipping.Become a Patron:patreon.com/thenuggetclimbingShow Notes:  thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/christian-beckwithNuggets:(00:00:00) – Intro(00:01:48) – Ninety-Pound Rucksack(00:10:46) – Birth of the 10th Mountain Division(00:22:00) – Ghosts in the trees(00:35:23) – New ropes & belay techniques(00:49:45) – Boots(00:54:00) – New vs. old climbing gear(00:57:49) – The Ninety-Pound Rucksack Challenge(01:05:35) – Breaking Hitler’s Gothic Line(01:19:18) – Coal to diamond(01:25:05) – Writing the story of the 10th(01:34:32) – Teaching GIs to climb(01:41:45) – What’s next for this story(01:47:30) – Wrap up

Carol Simpson returns to the podcast to talk about life after 80 years old, and everything she does to stay healthy and climb hard. We talked about making the move to Salt Lake, discovering Dr. Peter Attia, her health routines, training for a world record in grip strength, balance training, rediscovering art, and much more.The Nugget Training App | 14 Day Free Trialtraining.thenuggetclimbing.comThe GRINDS Program | FREE Finger Training PDFthenuggetclimbing.com/grindsThe NUG | Portable Hangboardfrictitiousclimbing.com/products/the-nugMad Rock (Shoes & Crash Pads)madrock.comUse code “NUGGET10” at checkout for 10% off your next order.Rúngne (Chalk & Apparel)rungne.info/nuggetAnd use code “NUGGET" for 10% off and code "SHIPPINGNUGGETS" for free shipping.Become a Patron:patreon.com/thenuggetclimbingShow Notes:  thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/carol-simpson-returnsNuggets:(00:00:00) – Intro(00:01:12) – Leaving Lone Pine(00:08:25) – The energy of Salt Lake(00:13:12) – Kalymnos(00:17:23) – Turning 80(00:21:46) – Climbing in the gym(00:25:26) – Women leveling the playing field(00:31:34) – Dr. Peter Attia(00:38:44) – Why(00:44:47) – Routines & training(00:54:43) – Carol’s deadhang goal(00:57:25) – Being your own advocate(01:02:24) – Balance training(01:11:41) – Yoga(01:15:45) – Art & breathing(01:23:14) – Joy(01:25:45) – Accepted(01:27:10) – Unrealized dreams(01:30:06) – Tips from Carol(01:33:18) – Don’t get married(01:43:44) – What’s next(01:45:33) – Wrap up

Domen Škofic is a Slovenian professional climber and a 5x World Cup gold medalist. We talked about his Red Bull Plane Climb project, skydiving, building a climbing gym with his father, retiring from the competition circuit, taking up archery, rediscovering his passion for climbing, sending Move 9b/+ in Flatanger, trying Silence 9c with Sean Raboutou, training lessons, and much more.Red Bull | The Plane Climb Videohttps://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0vcxVao0G8cThe Nugget Training App | 14 Day Free Trialtraining.thenuggetclimbing.comThe GRINDS Program | FREE Finger Training PDFthenuggetclimbing.com/grindsThe NUG | Portable Hangboardfrictitiousclimbing.com/products/the-nugMad Rock (Shoes & Crash Pads)madrock.comUse code “NUGGET10” at checkout for 10% off your next order.Rúngne (Chalk & Apparel)rungne.info/nuggetUse code "FREEBUCKET99" for a free chalk bucket on any order over $99.And use code “NUGGET" for 10% off storewide. Become a Patron:patreon.com/thenuggetclimbingShow Notes:  thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/domen-skoficNuggets:(00:00:00) – Intro(00:02:15) – The Plane Climb(00:10:15) – Skydiving(00:19:53) – The Plane Climb continued(00:31:48) – Domen’s father(00:42:54) – Building his gym(00:46:11) – Retiring from competitions(01:01:26) – Archery(01:05:21) – Rediscovering his passion(01:11:51) – Move 9b/+(01:25:45) – Flatanger(01:28:06) – Trying Silence 9c with Sean Raboutou(01:33:17) – Training(01:39:38) – Wrap up

Steve Moss is a high-level boulderer and the co-founder of a brewery and pizzeria in Spokane, WA. We talked about finding climbing at age 24, his breakthrough season climbing three V12s in less than two weeks at age 40, why discomfort helps us grow, his training routine for the past year, building a successful brewery and pizzeria from the ground up, what matters most in climbing, gratitude for life, the connections we make through climbing, and much more.The Nugget Training App | 14 Day Free Trialtraining.thenuggetclimbing.comThe GRINDS Program | FREE Finger Training PDFthenuggetclimbing.com/grindsThe NUG | Portable Hangboardfrictitiousclimbing.com/products/the-nugRúngne (Chalk & Apparel)rungne.info/nuggetUse code “NUGGET" for 10% off and "SHIPPINGNUGGETS" for free shipping.Mad Rock (Shoes & Crash Pads)madrock.comUse code “NUGGET10” at checkout for 10% off your next order.Become a Patron:patreon.com/thenuggetclimbingShow Notes:  thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/steve-mossNuggets:(00:00:00) – Intro(00:02:21) – Steve’s climbing origin story(00:07:30) – Life before climbing(00:09:58) – His wife(00:14:27) – Leavenworth(00:18:41) – A resurgence of stoke(00:23:37) – Passion & challenge(00:26:36) – Why discomfort is beneficial(00:34:21) – Building the brewery(00:52:31) – Brewing beer(00:56:56) – Steve’s nephew(01:04:11) – Double V12 day(01:11:46) – Gratitude(01:14:37) – Protein & breakthroughs(01:20:51) – Bodyweight(01:24:17) – Crimping(01:27:42) – The hardest part of training(01:36:39) – Steve’s training(02:03:30) – 455 V-point day(02:20:31) – Century bike ride(02:21:49) – Advice for a young Steve Moss(02:27:48) – Baseball(02:29:19) – The people(02:36:21) – What’s next