EP264: Behind the Industry: The Manufacturing Story ft Diana Kakkar & Joshua Rosario - Maes London

This might be the shortest episode I’ve ever done about menswear. Lately, I’ve been feeling a little lost when it comes to menswear. I’m not entirely sure why, but it seems to happen every summer. Sometimes you just reach a point where something you’ve spent so much time thinking about suddenly feels a little unfamiliar. But maybe feeling lost isn’t necessarily a bad thing. It gives you the chance to step back, look at things from different angles, question what you thought you knew, and perhaps discover something, new along the way. I know I’ll find my way back to menswear but for now, I’m embracing the feeling of being a little lost. A short, and my honest reflection on menswear in the summer and finding your way back to something you always admired and still do. Would love to hear comments and thoughts if you ever felt lost in menswear? you can leave your comment below.

Today’s episode is with Tom Hoy, a name that will be familiar to anyone who has spent time exploring the world of Ivy and classic menswear. Tom has built a reputation for his knowledge, his eye for style, and his deep appreciation of the culture that surrounds Ivy. In this conversation, we found plenty of common ground from Miles Davis and jazz to Blue Note Records, Ivy, and the many characters, sounds and influences that helped shape one of the most iconic periods in menswear. Tom takes us back to his early days in menswear and talks about how his interest in Ivy developed over the years. We also discuss how that passion has evolved into what he does today, from his Substack and Instagram presence to his own podcast called Easy on The Ivy. This is a conversation about much more than clothes, it's about music, culture, taste, history and the people who continue to keep the spirit of Ivy alive.A great conversation with, someone who clearly understands that style is about far more than what you wear.

In this episode, we sit down with Lewis Wilson, founder of Cafe Mountain to talk about his journey through menswear, the influences that shaped him, and how he discovered what he really wanted to create. Lewis reflects on the huge influence of menswear icon Nigel Cabourn, whose guidance and experience helped Lewis understand the direction he wanted to take within the industry. That journey eventually led him to create Cafe Mountain in 2021, an outdoor-inspired brand built around a sense of calm, simplicity and the feeling of being in the mountains.Since then, Lewis hasn’t looked back. Cafe Mountain has quietly started to make its own noise within menswear, growing organically while staying true to its identity. Lewis also opens up about the realities of running a brand, from the challenges and pressures to the excitement of seeing his ideas become a reality. And with the opening of Cafe Mountain’s first store in Newcastle, a major milestone for the brand, it feels like Lewis is only just beginning his climb. As Cafe Mountain continues to rise, Lewis seems to have found exactly where he belongs in menswear, and he knows how to climb the mountain.Listen now to hear Lewis Wilson’s story, the influence of Nigel Cabourn, and the journey behind Cafe Mountain.

I’ve been wanting to bring guests from the manufacturing side of this industry onto the podcast for a long time, and I’m so excited that it’s finally happening. I’m hoping this is just the beginning with many more conversations like this to come.In today’s episode I’m joined by two incredible co-founders, Diana and Joshua, the founders of Maes London. Coming from different parts of the world and bringing together a team that truly understands manufacturing, structure, and the heart of this industry, they share a perspective that is so important because without manufacturing this industry simply wouldn’t exist. Diana and Joshua talk about how they started their journey, what brought them together and how, their mindset from the very beginning was aligned. For them teamwork has been at the centre of everything. Creating a team where everyone works together, understands the same vision, and is moving in the same direction has played a huge part in building their business.This episode is a conversation about manufacturing, teamwork, vision, and the people behind the scenes who help bring an entire industry to life. I’m so excited to finally have this conversation and I hope you enjoy getting to know Diana and Joshua and hearing their story as much as I did.

In today's episode, I'm joined by Bhaavya, the founder of Iro Iro, a brand that beautifully bridges traditional craftsmanship, with contemporary fashion. I first came acrossIro Iro during London Craft Week, through the Friday Sari Project, where a group of South Asian designers collections, where they showcased how talented craftsmans work is still available in India that are huge part of individual brands in their own unique way. What immediately stood out to me was how Iro Iro reimagines heritage craftsmanship for the modern wardrobe. The collection draws inspiration from menswear and Bhaavya adapts those elements into womenswear a distinctive design approach where I recognised immediately and could see menswear. In our conversation, Bhaavya shares how her journey began and the vision that drives Iro Iro. She talks about challenging conventional fashion industry practices, by building a brand showing it's transparency, sustainability, and meaningful. Rather than simply working with artisans, Bhaavya sees them as an extension of the Iro Iro family, where every craftsperson, plays an essential role in the brand's growth and success. We also explore the importance of preserving traditional craftsmanship, the value of, knowing the story behind every garment, and how transparency throughout the design and production process helps create a deeper connection, between the product and the customer. If you're passionate about conscious fashion, artisan craftsmanship, and the future of sustainable design, this is an episode you won't want to miss.

Today’s episode features Christoph Ritter, founder of Critter London, who shares his experience of studying fashion, leaving Central Saint Martins, and building his own path within luxury womenswear. Although this podcast has traditionally focused on menswear, this conversation explores a topic that affects the entire fashion industry: the reality of fashion education and what happens after graduation. Christoph and I discuss the financial pressures students face when studying fashion, the rising costs involved in completing a degree, and the reality of graduating with significant debt while trying to establish a career in one of the most competitive industries in the world. The biggest question is not only about the cost of studying fashion it is what support graduates receive once they leave university. How does the education system help students transition into the industry? Are universities providing enough guidance, opportunities and connections to help graduates build sustainable careers? Or is the reality that once the university doors close, each graduate is left to navigate the industry alone to create their own opportunities, build their own networks and find their own place within fashion? This episode is a wider conversation about the future of fashion education, the relationship between institutions and graduates, and whether the current system is truly preparing the next generation of creatives.

Today’s episode is a little different from the one originally planned. Due to ongoing technical issues, I decided at 9:30pm to record a conversation exploring the SS27 menswear collections, from Pitti Uomo and Milan through to Paris.Paris was the highlight for me this season, with inspiring collections from Dries Van Norton, Issey Miyake, Maison Kitsuné, Soshiotsuki, and Taakk showcasing incredible craftsmanship, texture, colour, and creativity.Beyond the collections, this episode explores the wider questions around menswear today: how people find opportunities within the industry, the value of fashion education versus experience, and whether different career paths and backgrounds are truly embraced. I would love to hear your thoughts: Is education important in menswear, or does experience hold greater value? Does the industry create space for people at different stages of their careers, or are some voices being left behind?

What happens when two people with no background in the clothing industry decide to challenge the way it's done?In this episode, we sit down with Drishti and Rashmick, the co-founders of Lafaani, to explore the journey behind a brand built on curiosity, purpose, and the courage to begin without having all the answers. Coming from outside the industry, they didn't see their lack of experience as a limitation. Instead, they saw an opportunity to question the norm, learn from the ground up, and create something that reflected the values they believed in. For them, "why not?" has always been more powerful than "why?" Rather than being discouraged by the challenges ahead, they chose to embrace them, believing that meaningful change comes from those willing to take the first step. Their story is one of saying, Let's go for it, and discovering what's possible through persistence, learning, and a shared vision. At the heart of Lafaani is a deep respect for craftsmanship. Drishti and Rashmick speak about working alongside incredibly talented artisans, not simply as manufacturers, but as creative partners whose knowledge and skills shape every piece they create. Every garment is treated as a journey from the first idea and the sourcing of materials to the careful process of making and the final finished piece. Nothing is rushed; every decision is intentional. Our conversation explores what it means to rethink clothing not just as something we wear, but as something that carries purpose, process, and people within it. We discuss building a business driven by values instead of convention, trusting your instincts even when you're stepping into unfamiliar territory, and why creating something meaningful often begins with the willingness to take a chance. This episode is a reminder that you don't have to come from an industry to make an impact in it. Sometimes, the people who ask different questions are the ones who create new possibilities. Drishti and Rashmick's story is one of optimism, resilience, and proving that if you're willing to learn, stay true to your purpose, and take the leap, you can build something that inspires change one thoughtful piece at a time.

In this episode, I sit down with Vollebak co-founder Nick Tidball for a fascinating conversation about what happens when you stop following the rules of fashion and start designing for the future. From the very beginning, Nick and his brother set out to build a brand unlike anything the menswear industry had ever seen. Instead of chasing seasonal trends, they asked bigger questions: What will humans wear in the future? How can clothing evolve alongside technology, exploration, and human performance? What if a jacket could do far more than simply protect you from the elements? We explore the mindset behind building one of the world's most forward thinking brands, the importance of thinking differently, and why creating something truly original often means ignoring what everyone else is doing. One of the standout moments of our conversation is Vollebak's Sonic Jacket. It's one of the most remarkable developments I've ever seen in menswear a piece that pushes the boundaries of what clothing can be and challenges everything we think a jacket should be. It's unlike anything I've come across and perfectly captures Vollebak's philosophy of designing products that feel decades ahead of their time. This episode is about much more than clothing. It's about curiosity, innovation, entrepreneurship, and having the courage to build something that no one else has even thought to imagine. Whether you're interested in business, design, technology, or the future of human performance, this conversation will leave you questioning where fashion is heading and whether Vollebak has already arrived there.

Inspired by a shared love of travel and timeless design, brothers Chris and Mark founded Far Afield with a vision of creating menswear that tells a story. In this episode, they share how exploring the world shaped the brand, influenced every collection, and helped turn a simple idea into a respected independent menswear label. We discuss entrepreneurship, creativity, and what it's really like building a business as brothers. Chris and Mark also reflect on the importance of surrounding yourself with the right people, building strong relationships within your team, and creating a culture built on trust, collaboration, and shared values something they believe has been key to Far Afield's success. This conversation goes beyond fashion. It's about following your passion, embracing inspiration from around the world, and understanding that great businesses are built not only on great ideas, but on great people. Whether you're passionate about fashion, travel, entrepreneurship, or building a brand with purpose, this episode offers an inspiring look behind the scenes of Far Afield and the journey that continues to shape its future.