@161) Is Azelaic Acid Better Than Hydroquinone?

In this episode, we take a deep dive into the world of K-beauty azelaic acid products. We explore the science behind three popular contenders—Anua, Purito, and medicube—while decoding their ingredient lists, analyzing clinical testing data, and discussing the tricky chemistry of azelaic acid solubility.  We provide a chemist’s perspective on how to choose the right formula for your skincare routine. 00:00 | Introducing K-Beauty Azelaic Acid Contenders   00:02 | The "Ouch" Factor: Testing medicube’s Needle Technology  00:04 | Sensation vs. Science: Do Spicules Improve Penetration?   00:05 | Texture Breakdown: Puridose Oil Droplets vs. Anua Watery Serum   00:08 | Decoding Ingredient Lists: Tea Tree Oil vs. Leaf Water   00:13 | Analyzing Anua’s Clinical Studies for Redness Reduction   00:18 | Is 4-Week Acne Testing Actually Meaningful?   00:23 | Bacterial Exosomes and the Future of Skincare Sourcing   00:29 | Chemist Corner: The Difficulty of Azelaic Acid Solubility   00:32 | Final Verdict: Choosing Suspensions vs. Soluble Formulas

This week, we're starting our series on hyperpigmentation answering one of the most common questions many of us will encounter which is, "Is azelaic acid better than hydroquinone for my hyperpigmentation 00:00 | Introduction: 2026 Skincare Kickoff 03:45 | Investigating the PNAS Combination Study 08:12 | Deep Dive: Azelaic Acid vs. Hydroquinone 12:50 | The Challenge of Finding Full Research Papers 18:30 | Patient Compliance: The 16-Week Milestone 22:15 | Why Visual Improvements Take Time 27:00 | Analyzing Study Abstracts vs. Full Data 31:10 | Dual Therapy Overkill: 5% Concentration Discussion 31:50 | Motivation and Routine Consistency for Results Product Shoutout: Double Play Retinol https://chemistconfessions.com/products/double-play-retinol-face-eye-treatment Enrichment Content: Chemists’ Guide to Choosing an Exfoliating Toner https://chemistconfessions.com/blogs/how-to-choose-the-right-exfoliating-toner-for-your-skin Follow us: IG:   / chemist.confessions   INTERWEB: https://chemistconfessions.com/ TIKTOK: https://www.tiktok.com/@chemistconfes... Skincare questions for the podcast? Leave your question in the comments and it could be featured in our next  

The Chemist Confessions podcast year-end review is here! We blitz through the 103 skincare products tested in 2025! We reveal our favorite and least favorite categories, discuss surprising finds like Hypochlorite Acid, and give our honest takes on individual products, including the Banana Boat Light as Air Sunscreen and the La Roche-Posay Cicaplast Sunscreen, and of course, Animal Corner! Timestamps:  00:00 | Welcome to Chemist Confessions Podcast & Year-End Review 01:07 | How Many Skincare Products Did We Test in 2025? (103 products!) 03:55 | Favorite Skincare Product Categories We Tested This Year 07:27 | What is Our Least Favorite Skincare Product Category? 10:07 | Why is K-Beauty C-Fu Dupe Testing Boring? 12:21 | Most Surprising Skincare Category: Cleansing Oils & Hypochlorite Acid 18:11 | Best Product of the Year: Banana Boat Light As Air Sunscreen Review 21:48 | Worst Product of the Year: La Roche-Posay Cicaplast Sunscreen Pill Test 25:54 | Most Surprising Product: What is A0X or 2X Intense? 28:17 | Are Cushion Foundations Good Sunscreens? Tarte Cushion Review Products Discussed this 2025 Podcast Season *a small portion of your purchase through these links goes to feeding a chemist. https://shopmy.us/collections/1280514 Recommended 30 for 30 Sunscreens 2025 *a small portion of your purchase through these links goes to feeding a chemist. https://shopmy.us/collections/1766357 Product Shoutout: Blank Slate Gentle Gel Cleanser https://chemistconfessions.com/products/blank-slate-cleanser Enrichment Content: Sunscreen Layering Guide https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IQ0Dlb0WXvc Do We Absorb Sunscreen Filters into Our Bloodstreams? https://chemistconfessions.com/blogs/controversy-corner-do-we-absorb-sunscreen-filters-into-our-bloodstreams  Follow us: IG:   / chemist.confessions   INTERWEB: https://chemistconfessions.com/ TIKTOK: https://www.tiktok.com/@chemistconfes... Skincare questions for the podcast? Leave your question in the comments, and it could be featured in our next episode! #chemistconfessions  #skincarescience  #chemistconfessionspodcast  #skincarehacks

We did a product head-to-head comparing occlusive balms, all with a petrolatum base! Following our beef tallow deep dive, we are breaking down the texture, transfer, price, and complex chemist notes of Vaseline, Aquaphor, CeraVe, Prequel, and our own Bon Voyage. Which formula is best for sensitive, compromised, dry, or oily skin, and why a simple formula isn't always best! 00:00 | Welcome to Chemist Confessions Podcast! 00:37 | What is an occlusive balm and why does petrolatum matter? 01:09 | Vaseline vs Aquaphor: Price and ingredient breakdown 03:25 | How does Vaseline’s texture change with application amount? 06:01 | Is Aquaphor better than Vaseline for lips and transfer resistance? 07:55 | Why is CeraVe Healing Ointment less shiny than other balms? 11:31 | How do dry vs oily skin types react to occlusive balms? 14:47 | Why does Vaseline have a drug facts label? 16:07 | Should you avoid complex balm formulas for compromised skin? 23:07 | Are occlusive balms temperature sensitive? Storage tips for warmer climates Products Discussed this 2025 Podcast Season *a small portion of your purchase through these links goes to feeding a chemist. https://shopmy.us/collections/1280514 Recommended 30 for 30 Sunscreens 2025 *a small portion of your purchase through these links goes to feeding a chemist. https://shopmy.us/collections/1766357 Product Shoutout: Blank Slate Gentle Gel Cleanser https://chemistconfessions.com/products/blank-slate-cleanser Enrichment Content: Sunscreen Layering Guide https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IQ0Dlb0WXvc Do We Absorb Sunscreen Filters into Our Bloodstreams? https://chemistconfessions.com/blogs/controversy-corner-do-we-absorb-sunscreen-filters-into-our-bloodstreams  Follow us: IG:   / chemist.confessions   INTERWEB: https://chemistconfessions.com/ TIKTOK: https://www.tiktok.com/@chemistconfes... Skincare questions for the podcast? Leave your question in the comments and it could be featured in our next episode! #chemistconfessions #skincarescience #chemistconfessionspodcast #skincarehack

This week, we tackle one of the most requested ingredients: Beef Tallow in skincare. We break down the science, compare its characteristics to other popular ingredients like shea butter, and look at the actual topical studies (or lack thereof). 00:00 | What Is Beef Tallow and Why Is It in Skincare? 00:43 | Is Beef Tallow Really Similar to Human Skin Lipids? 02:09 | How Beef Tallow Is Made: The Science Behind the Fat 03:22 | Melting Point Breakdown: Beef Tallow vs Human Sebum 05:47 | How Extraction Methods Affect Skincare Ingredient Quality 09:37 | What Do Saponification and Iodine Values Mean for Skin? 20:25 | Does Beef Tallow Have Any Proven Skin Benefits? 37:18 | What Happened When I Put Beef Tallow on My Face? 40:56 | Shea Butter, Cocoa Butter, or Beef Tallow — What’s Best for Dry Skin? Products Discussed this 2025 Podcast Season *a small portion of your purchase through these links goes to feeding a chemist. https://shopmy.us/collections/1280514 Recommended 30 for 30 Sunscreens 2025 *a small portion of your purchase through these links goes to feeding a chemist. https://shopmy.us/collections/1766357 Product Shoutout: Blank Slate Gentle Gel Cleanser https://chemistconfessions.com/products/blank-slate-cleanser Enrichment Content: Sunscreen Layering Guide https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IQ0Dlb0WXvc Do We Absorb Sunscreen Filters into Our Bloodstreams? https://chemistconfessions.com/blogs/controversy-corner-do-we-absorb-sunscreen-filters-into-our-bloodstreams Follow us: IG: / chemist.confessions INTERWEB: https://chemistconfessions.com/ TIKTOK: https://www.tiktok.com/@chemistconfes... Skincare questions for the podcast? Leave your question in the comments and it could be featured in our next episode! #chemistconfessions #skincarescience #chemistconfessionspodcast #skincarehack

We dive deep into the complicated science of ceramides (NP, AP, EOP) in your barrier creams, explaining the complex nomenclature and how different ceramide types function in the skin. We compare the ceramide blends found in 10 popular moisturizers and reveal the winning factors to look for when you're shopping: known percentages and clinical testing. Plus, we explore supporting ingredients like Meadowfoam Estolide and Phytosphingosine, giving you a peek behind the curtain of how these popular moisturizers are formulated.   Products Discussed this 2025 Podcast Season *a small portion of your purchase through these links goes to feeding a chemist. https://shopmy.us/collections/1280514 Recommended 30 for 30 Sunscreens 2025 *a small portion of your purchase through these links goes to feeding a chemist. https://shopmy.us/collections/1766357 Product Shoutout: Blank Slate Gentle Gel Cleanser https://chemistconfessions.com/products/blank-slate-cleanser Enrichment Content: Sunscreen Layering Guide https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IQ0Dlb0WXvc Do We Absorb Sunscreen Filters into Our Bloodstreams? https://chemistconfessions.com/blogs/controversy-corner-do-we-absorb-sunscreen-filters-into-our-bloodstreams  Follow us: IG:   / chemist.confessions   INTERWEB: https://chemistconfessions.com/ TIKTOK: https://www.tiktok.com/@chemistconfes... Skincare questions for the podcast? Leave your question in the comments and it could be featured in our next episode! #chemistconfessions #skincarescience  #chemistconfessionspodcast  #skincarehacks

We review 10 popular East and West barrier creams from Aestura, Dr. Jart, Dieux, Skinceuticals, La Roche Posay, and more. We break down everything from texture and finish for different skin types to occlusives like petrolatum and dimethicone, humectants like glycerin, and clinical claims. We also look at which creams are best for "suffering" vs. generally healthy skin 00:00 | 10 Barrier Creams: East vs. West Product Lineup  02:44 | How much do Barrier Creams cost? Price Buckets  03:51 | What are the different Barrier Cream textures for dry and oily skin?  09:25 | Moisturizer Residue: How long does the cream's finish last?  16:22 | Pilling Potential: Which barrier creams are prone to pilling?  18:15 | How do chemists evaluate a barrier cream? Key ingredients  18:52 | Heavy-handed vs. Lightweight Occlusives in Barrier Creams  21:20 | Glycerin and Humectants in Barrier Creams: What position matters?  25:38 | Clinical Highlights: Dieux, Dr. Jart, and Aestura claims explained  31:17 | Barrier Cream Recommendations for Suffering vs. Healthy Skin Products Discussed this 2025 Podcast Season *a small portion of your purchase through these links goes to feeding a chemist. https://shopmy.us/collections/1280514 Recommended 30 for 30 Sunscreens 2025 *a small portion of your purchase through these links goes to feeding a chemist. https://shopmy.us/collections/1766357 Product Shoutout: Blank Slate Gentle Gel Cleanser https://chemistconfessions.com/products/blank-slate-cleanser Enrichment Content: Sunscreen Layering Guide https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IQ0Dlb0WXvc Do We Absorb Sunscreen Filters into Our Bloodstreams? https://chemistconfessions.com/blogs/controversy-corner-do-we-absorb-sunscreen-filters-into-our-bloodstreams  Follow us: IG:   / chemist.confessions   INTERWEB: https://chemistconfessions.com/ TIKTOK: https://www.tiktok.com/@chemistconfes... Skincare questions for the podcast? Leave your question in the comments and it could be featured in our next episode! #chemistconfessions #skincarescience  #chemistconfessionspodcast  #skincarehack

We put three 10% OTC sulfur products to the test! Kate Somerville, the Ordinary, Vichy, and De La Cruz Lab have four completely different takes on sulfur. The chemists discuss which product is the best to use as an acne spot treat!   Products Discussed this 2025 Podcast Season *a small portion of your purchase through these links goes to feeding a chemist. https://shopmy.us/collections/1280514   Product Shoutout: The Specialist: https://chemistconfessions.com/products/the-specialist-exfoliating-treatment   Enrichment Content: EP153: OTC Sulfur for Acne is Kinda Weird! https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6cPB2eUtYpY&list=PLldQkxjc7bYnFkUtOw8Y07yCyBnaF4ddx&index=2   From the Blog: The Chemists’ Comprehensive Guide to Acne Pt. 1 https://chemistconfessions.com/blogs/the-chemists-comprehensive-guide-to-acne-pt-1   00:00 | Sulfur Products Review: Which 10% Sulfur Acne Treatment is Best? 00:39 | What are the selection criteria for the 4 sulfur products? 01:22 | Price comparison of The Ordinary, Vichy, Kate Somerville, and De La Cruz sulfur products 02:48 | How does a dry-skin representative use a drying sulfur spot treatment? 03:38 | Which sulfur product has a classic drying, high absorption lotion texture? 04:00 | The problem with Kate Somerville's isopropyl alcohol-based drying lotion 06:30 | Ranking sulfur products by "rotten egg smell"—which one smells the most? 08:46 | Chemist Notes: Which oil-absorbing powders are in the sulfur formulas? 11:13 | Which sulfur products contain additional acne actives like Glycolic or Salicylic Acid? 14:11 | Is sulfur a long-term preventative acne ingredient or just a spot treat?   Follow us: IG:  https://www.instagram.com/chemist.con... INTERWEB: https://chemistconfessions.com/ TIKTOK: https://www.tiktok.com/@chemistconfes...   Skincare questions for the podcast? Leave your question in the comments and it could be featured in our next episode! #chemistconfessions #skincarescience #chemistconfessionspodcast #skincarehack

In paid partnership with VT! VT has given us insider access to the R&D behind their viral Reedle Skincare. In thanks to our community’s curiosity, they’ve decided to share the research behind their reedles, what makes them special, and all the testing they’ve done behind this product line. The chemists also share their experience and recommendation using this uniquely prickly but soothing? Kbeauty serum.   Products Discussed this 2025 Podcast Season *A small portion of your purchase through these links goes to feeding a chemist. (Thank you!) https://shopmy.us/shop/collections/1280514   Enrichment Content: EP 128: Our Deep Dive into Spicules (Non-paid/non-gifted) https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=acn8V6-4_Uk&t=61s   EP 129: VT’s Reedle Shot 50 vs. 100 (Non-paid/non-gifted) https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=O-BwdlFYFU0&t=1s   Follow us: IG:   / chemist.confessions   INTERWEB: https://chemistconfessions.com/ TIKTOK: https://www.tiktok.com/@chemistconfes...   Skincare questions for the podcast? Leave your question in the comments and it could be featured in our next episode! #chemistconfessions #skincarescience #chemistconfessionspodcast #skincarehack

We take a deep dive into the science behind Sulfur, a very old and historically prevalent ingredient for acne. We discuss its nonmetal clay origins and characteristic scent, often described as rotten eggs , or like "if a clay farted". The episode covers its classification as an OTC acne ingredient , its proposed catalytic and oil-absorbing mechanisms , and the challenges in its topical formulation, such as particle size. We also look at old-school research, including a study on 10% Sulfur + 4% Niacinamide drying lotion , and offer realistic expectations: Sulfur is best used as a spot treatment for quick fixes, not for long-term overall breakout reduction Products Discussed this 2025 Podcast Season *a small portion of your purchase through these links goes to feeding a chemist. https://shopmy.us/collections/1280514 Recommended 30 for 30 Sunscreens 2025 *a small portion of your purchase through these links goes to feeding a chemist. https://shopmy.us/collections/1766357 Product Shoutout: Blank Slate Gentle Gel Cleanser https://chemistconfessions.com/products/blank-slate-cleanser Enrichment Content: Sunscreen Layering Guide https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IQ0Dlb0WXvc Do We Absorb Sunscreen Filters into Our Bloodstreams? https://chemistconfessions.com/blogs/controversy-corner-do-we-absorb-sunscreen-filters-into-our-bloodstreams Follow us: IG: / chemist.confessions INTERWEB: https://chemistconfessions.com/ TIKTOK: https://www.tiktok.com/@chemistconfes... Skincare questions for the podcast? Leave your question in the comments and it could be featured in our next episode! #chemistconfessions #skincarescience #chemistconfessionspodcast #skincarehack