Bill Ramsey: 5.14 at 65, Peaking in His 40's, BIG Training Days, and Giving No F's

Join the email list to get a FREE private finger training clinic with Dr. Tyler Nelson (normally $10) www.thestruggleclimbingshow.com/strong   Support the Show on Patreon Get access to all Pro Clinics, bonus episodes, and more. https://www.patreon.com/thestruggleclimbingshow   - Elite Climber, weekend warrior, and Philosophy Professor, Bill Ramsey, explores: His early days with Alan Watts  Moving to Vegas for year-round climbing  Climbing 30 5.14s after age 40 Climbing three 5.14s (so far) in his 60s Customizing training for specific projects Developing the try hard part of the brain The benefit of doing a very big training day  How to train on a Treadwall  Most common mistakes he sees climbers make Having no F’s to give  The Pain Box   Here's Bill's article on the Pain Box: https://www.trainingbeta.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/05/pain-box1.pdf   Here's Bill's article on how to set up a Treadwall:  https://www.trainingbeta.com/bill-ramsey-treadwall-training/   - BIG THANKS TO THE AMAZING SPONSORS OF THE STRUGGLE WHO LOVE ROCK CLIMBING AS MUCH AS YOU DO: PhysiVantage: the official climbing-nutrition sponsor of The Struggle. Train harder, recover faster, and feel better than ever. I love all their stuff! Use code STRUGGLE15 at checkout for 15% off your full-priced nutrition order. ForceBoard: A better way to train fingers. Portable, accurate, and created to train finger strength and endurance exactly how YOU need it. Score $10 off and support the show by using code STRUGGLE10 at checkout. And check out ALL the show’s awesome sponsors and exclusive deals at thestruggleclimbingshow.com/deals   - Shoutout to Aiden Schlatter and Michael Martin for supporting at the Hero level on Patreon. So mega!  - Here are some AI generated show notes (hopefully the robots got it right) 00:00 Am I Too Old 00:47 Meet Bill Ramsey 03:54 Early Days With Watts 05:28 Eugene Training Era 07:27 Smith Rock Revolution 08:51 Red River Return 10:50 Move To Vegas 12:04 Decades Of 514 16:19 Two Very Different 14a 18:20 What Struggle Means 21:12 Sponsor Break Collagen 23:28 Back To Training Talk 26:49 Try Hard Over Minutiae 31:25 Training On Climbing Days 36:35 Big Days More Rest 37:55 Injury Risk Overtraining Myth 40:35 Treadwall Setup Linkups 43:50 Protocols for Red River 46:22 Training Rests Recovery 48:50 Dark Side Stories 50:23 Sponsor Break Ads 53:10 Nutrition Recovery Basics 57:55 Project Tactics Staging 01:02:40 Micro Beta Puzzle Mindset 01:06:04 Warm Up on Project 01:07:54 Rope Solo Projecting 01:08:14 Garage Crux Replicas 01:11:03 DIY Holds And Measurements 01:11:40 Warmup And Rewarmup Plan 01:14:31 Attempts And Rest Timing 01:15:57 Cold Hands Pain Tactics 01:18:10 Aging And Mental Freedom 01:21:24 Arrival Fallacy And Next Goals 01:24:39 Process Over Metrics 01:28:14 Pain Box Explained 01:35:04 Risk And Modern Comfort 01:36:20 Wrap Up And Bonus Tease 01:40:07 Host Training Update 01:42:37 YouTube And Farewell - Follow along on Instagram @thestruggleclimbingshow and YouTube /@thestruggleclimbingshow - The Struggle is carbon-neutral in partnership with The Honnold Foundation, whose mission is to promote solar energy for a more equitable world. - This show is produced and hosted by Ryan Devlin, and edited by Glen Walker. The Struggle is a proud member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective, a diverse group of the best, most impactful podcasts in the outdoor industry. - The struggle makes us stronger! I hope your training and climbing are going great.  - And now here are some buzzwords to help the almighty algorithm get this show in front of people who love to climb: rock climbing, rock climber, climbing, climber, bouldering, sport climbing, gym climbing, how to rock climb, donuts are amazing. Okay, whew, that’s done. But hey, if you’re a human that’s actually reading this, and if you love this show (and love to climb) would you think about sharing this episode with a climber friend of yours? And shout it out on your socials? I’ll send you a sticker for doing it. Just shoot me a message on IG – thanks so much! 

Join the email list to get a FREE private finger training clinic with Dr. Tyler Nelson (normally $10) www.thestruggleclimbingshow.com/strong   Support the Show on Patreon Get access to all Pro Clinics, bonus episodes, and more. https://www.patreon.com/thestruggleclimbingshow   Andrew Bisharat and Chris Kalous (along with a surprise guest) join to explore: Climbing gym culture of the 90s Trends in corporate vs independent gyms Which gyms prepare climbers better for real rock A case against mega gyms A case for mega gyms  Will soft gym grades result in mass upgrading of classic outdoor climbs? When a local gym closes... and is miraculously saved Is pickle ball competitive with climbing? How dirtbags can help save indie gyms - And check out ALL the show’s awesome sponsors and exclusive deals at thestruggleclimbingshow.com/deals - Here are some AI generated show notes (hopefully the robots got it right) 00:00 Old Gyms vs Mega Gyms 01:37 Rock Sport Closes 03:20 Andrew First Gym Memories 06:35 Chris Early Wall Origins 11:26 DIY Gym Spirit 11:51 Rock Sport and Rock Creation 15:09 Rock Creation Business Model 20:45 How Many Gyms Exist 23:32 Gym Growth and Trends 28:29 Gyms as Outdoor Gateway 32:26 Case for Mega Gyms 36:04 Gym Community Vibes 37:24 Modern Mega Gym Magic 39:12 Corporate Future Hypothetical 40:19 Grades Versus Real Rock 42:48 Setting Ergonomics Limits 44:34 WALL-E Mega Gym Satire 46:44 Surprise Guest Joins 48:21 Saving Rock Sport 50:29 Keeping the Old Soul 56:07 Sandbagging and Grade Plans 58:15 Pickleball and Business 01:01:47 Gym Ownership Reality Check 01:07:44 Support Your Local Gyms - Shoutout to Aiden Schlatter and Michael Martin for supporting at the Hero level on Patreon. So mega!  - Follow along on Instagram and YouTube: @thestruggleclimbingshow  - This show is produced and hosted by Ryan Devlin, and edited by Glen Walker. The Struggle is carbon-neutral in partnership with The Honnold Foundation and is a proud member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective, a diverse group of the best, most impactful podcasts in the outdoor industry. And now here are some buzzwords to help the almighty algorithm get this show in front of people who love to climb: rock climbing, rock climber, climbing, climber, bouldering, sport climbing, gym climbing, how to rock climb, donuts are amazing. Okay, whew, that’s done. But hey, if you’re a human that’s actually reading this, and if you love this show (and love to climb) would you think about sharing this episode with a climber friend of yours? And shout it out on your socials? I’ll send you a sticker for doing it. Just shoot me a message on IG – thanks so much! 

Join The Struggle’s Patreon community to get 100+ hours of Bonus Episodes, Pro Clinics, Uncut Videos, and Submit Questions for Future Guests. FREE TRIAL available!  https://www.patreon.com/thestruggleclimbingshow   Grip Master and Boulder Crusher, Yves Gravelle, explores: Which grip training pays off most for climbing Is a hang board all climbers need? How to make a $3 forearm trainer  Eccentric vs isometric training Why half crimp may not be the best to train Minimal edge vs heavier hangs  Which grips are weakest for climbers Two simple grip exercises to consider adding How to program ballistic lifts for a peak phase - Gain instant access to the FULL Pro Clinic by supporting the show as a Patron (you can even check it out for FREE with a 7-day trial): https://www.patreon.com/thestruggleclimbingshow - Here are some AI generated show notes (hopefully the robots got it right) 00:00 One Weakness Focus 00:22 Meet Eves Gravel 03:28 Arm Wrestling Basics 05:38 Why He Started 07:36 Climbers Crossover 09:05 What Is Grip Training 11:04 Arm Wrestling Weak Links 13:16 Training Recovery Tradeoffs 14:29 Is Hangboarding Enough 18:16 Grip Sport Implements 21:42 Hand Size And Events 24:44 Wrist Flexion For Climbers 27:44 PVC Pipe Setup 33:09 Patreon Outro And Teaser - Shoutout to Aiden Schlatter and Michael Martin for supporting at the Hero level on Patreon. So mega! - Follow along on Instagram and YouTube: @thestruggleclimbingshow    Follow Yves on IG @yvesgravelle   Here's the homemade forearm trainer: https://www.instagram.com/p/DUzPN7fDaaL/ - This show is produced and hosted by Ryan Devlin, and edited by Glen Walker. The Struggle is carbon-neutral in partnership with The Honnold Foundation and is a proud member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective, a diverse group of the best, most impactful podcasts in the outdoor industry. - The struggle makes us stronger! Let's get out there and try hard. Thanks for supporting the show, y'all.  - And now here are some buzzwords to help the almighty algorithm get this show in front of people who love to climb: rock climbing, rock climber, climbing, climber, bouldering, sport climbing, gym climbing, how to rock climb, donuts are amazing. Okay, whew, that’s done. But hey, if you’re a human that’s actually reading this, and if you love this show (and love to climb) would you think about sharing this episode with a climber friend of yours? And shout it out on your socials? I’ll send you a sticker for doing it. Just shoot me a message on IG – thanks so much! 

Join the email list to get a FREE private finger training clinic with Dr. Tyler Nelson (normally $10) www.thestruggleclimbingshow.com/strong   Support the Show on Patreon Get access to all Pro Clinics, bonus episodes, and more. https://www.patreon.com/thestruggleclimbingshow   - Elite climber Mike Boyd explores: The formula for rapid learning  His biggest mistake when he was a new climber How to get better at failure  Avoiding “junk mileage” when learning a new skill The 40-minute rule for optimized learning  Why coaches don’t like shortcuts (and why we should anyway) Stealing knowledge from fellow climbers  Trying the Dave McLeod diet Refusing to say “I’m too short” - BIG THANKS TO THE AMAZING SPONSORS OF THE STRUGGLE WHO LOVE ROCK CLIMBING AS MUCH AS YOU DO: PhysiVantage: the official climbing-nutrition sponsor of The Struggle. Train harder, recover faster, and feel better than ever. I love all their stuff! Use code STRUGGLE15 at checkout for 15% off your full-priced nutrition order. Kilter: Award winning, adjustable, light-up boards. I’m training on the Homewall Full Ride, and if you’re psyched to join me then use code STRUGGLE at checkout when you build your board, and you’ll score up to $1000 off plus a free gift pack let’s goooo! And check out ALL the show’s awesome sponsors and exclusive deals at thestruggleclimbingshow.com/deals   - Follow Mike on IG @mikeboydvideo and on YT /@mikeboyd and /@mikeboydclimbs - Shoutout to Aiden Schlatter for supporting at the Hero level on Patreon. A hero indeed! - Here are some AI generated show notes (hopefully the robots got it right) 00:00 Welcome and Learning Dip 00:41 Meet Mike Boyd 04:18 Climbing Setup and Psyche 17:35 Struggle Mindset Origins 27:47 Learning Framework and Breaks 32:57 Training Diary Metrics 33:51 Self Coaching vs Mentors 38:19 Keeping the Psych Alive 41:12 Weekly Climbing Plan 57:25 Nutrition Weight Strategy 01:09:41 Resting Like A Pro 01:10:41 Climbing In Gears 01:14:18 Projecting And Send Blues 01:18:21 Fear Of Falling Tools 01:32:02 Creative Goals And Wrap - Follow along on Instagram @thestruggleclimbingshow and YouTube /@thestruggleclimbingshow - The Struggle is carbon-neutral in partnership with The Honnold Foundation, whose mission is to promote solar energy for a more equitable world. - This show is produced and hosted by Ryan Devlin, and edited by Glen Walker. The Struggle is a proud member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective, a diverse group of the best, most impactful podcasts in the outdoor industry. - The struggle makes us stronger! I hope your training and climbing are going great.  - And now here are some buzzwords to help the almighty algorithm get this show in front of people who love to climb: rock climbing, rock climber, climbing, climber, bouldering, sport climbing, gym climbing, how to rock climb, donuts are amazing. Okay, whew, that’s done. But hey, if you’re a human that’s actually reading this, and if you love this show (and love to climb) would you think about sharing this episode with a climber friend of yours? And shout it out on your socials? I’ll send you a sticker for doing it. Just shoot me a message on IG – thanks so much! 

Join the email list to get a FREE private finger training clinic with Dr. Tyler Nelson (normally $10) www.thestruggleclimbingshow.com/strong   Support the Show on Patreon Get access to all Pro Clinics, bonus episodes, and more. https://www.patreon.com/thestruggleclimbingshow   Weekend Warrior Dusty Millar is making it work! In this thoughtful convo we explore: Pros and Cons of a 7-on 7-off schedule Shift work  Training without a climbing gym Yoga for climbing (and life) Getting better because he can’t climb all the time  The power of intentionality  Overcoming decision fatigue  Working with Neil Gresham Training pitfalls  25-second hypertrophy hangs  The benefit of doing the unsexy stuff  - BIG THANKS TO THE AMAZING SPONSORS OF THE STRUGGLE WHO LOVE ROCK CLIMBING AS MUCH AS YOU DO: PhysiVantage: the official climbing-nutrition sponsor of The Struggle. Use code STRUGGLE15 at checkout for 15% off your full-priced nutrition order. And check out ALL the show’s awesome sponsors and exclusive deals at thestruggleclimbingshow.com/deals - Here are some AI generated show notes (hopefully the robots got it right)   00:00 Intentionality: The Weekend Warrior Mindset (Cold Open)   00:57 Meet Dusty Millar: Shift-Worker Climber From Adelaide   03:46 Climbing in Australia: Adelaide, Arapiles & the Grampians   06:49 Dusty’s Background: Marines, Tattooing, Mining, Counseling & Yoga   07:39 The 7-On/7-Off Roster: Life on Day vs Night Shift   17:07 Training Without a Climbing Gym: Yoga, Calisthenics & Fingerboard   21:07 Why Climbing Hooks Us: Flow State, Focus & Community   26:56 Sponsor Break + Free Finger Training Clinic Plug   29:18 Yoga Meets Climbing: Breathwork, Meditation & Mindset   33:46 Home Weeks: Heat, Board-and-Dinner Crew, and Outdoor Project Days   36:20 Goals & Grit: Chasing 29/30 and V9 as a “Blue Collar” Climber   37:26 Coaching Tools & Why Neil Gresham’s Plans Stand Out   39:55 Inside a 16-Week Training Phase: Structure, Options, and Decision Fatigue   41:35 Training Mindset: Listening to Your Body, Managing Expectations, Keeping the Joy   43:48 Outdoor Days & Current Projects: ‘Boulder Problems on Ropes’ + Thailand Trip   47:51 Lifestyle Levers: Catering, Diet Swings, and Eating Mindfully   49:50 What Training Works Best: Alternating Power/Endurance + Long Repeater Hangs   53:45 Endurance When You Can’t Get to a Rope Gym + Adelaide Crag Access   56:42 Host’s V8 Side Quest, Injury Fears, and Staying Resilient in Your 40s   59:00 Prehab, Antagonist Work, and the 7-On/7-Off Rhythm (Plus Farewell)   01:03:03 Wrap-Up & Host Update: Red River Gorge Day, Training Block, and Patreon Plugs   - Shoutout to Aiden Schlatter for supporting at the Hero level on Patreon. A hero indeed! - Follow along on Instagram and YouTube: @thestruggleclimbingshow and @ryandevlinclimbing   Follow Dusty @nothing_but_hardwork - This show is produced and hosted by Ryan Devlin, and edited by Glen Walker. The Struggle is carbon-neutral in partnership with The Honnold Foundation and is a proud member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective, a diverse group of the best, most impactful podcasts in the outdoor industry. And now here are some buzzwords to help the almighty algorithm get this show in front of people who love to climb: rock climbing, rock climber, climbing, climber, bouldering, sport climbing, gym climbing, how to rock climb, donuts are amazing. Okay, whew, that’s done. But hey, if you’re a human that’s actually reading this, and if you love this show (and love to climb) would you think about sharing this episode with a climber friend of yours? And shout it out on your socials? I’ll send you a sticker for doing it. Just shoot me a message on IG – thanks so much!

Join the email list to get a FREE private finger training clinic with Dr. Tyler Nelson (normally $10) www.thestruggleclimbingshow.com/strong   Support the Show on Patreon Get access to all Pro Clinics, bonus episodes, and more. https://www.patreon.com/thestruggleclimbingshow   Coach Nate Drolet is back for another thoughtful conversation, including: Reflecting on his recent Hueco Tanks trip Climbing while injured  Collecting rejections like Stephen King Are gym boulders too tall? The problem with "easy" classics Advice to his younger self Falling 101 Is Coca-Cola Coffee aid? If you'd like to set up a consult with Nate, or explore coaching options, hit him up at: [email protected] - BIG THANKS TO THE AMAZING SPONSORS OF THE STRUGGLE WHO LOVE ROCK CLIMBING AS MUCH AS YOU DO: SCARPA: The best climbing shoes, trail runners, and hikers in the game! Score yourself a free SCARPA x STRUGGLE hat when you use code STRUGGLE at checkout at SCARPA.com. SCARPA, No Place Too Far. Kilter: Award winning, adjustable, light-up board. It’s what I’m training on at home, and if you’re psyched to join me then use code STRUGGLE at checkout when you build your board, and you’ll score up to $1000 off plus a free gift pack let’s goooo!   And check out ALL the show’s awesome sponsors and exclusive deals at thestruggleclimbingshow.com/deals - Here are some AI generated show notes (hopefully the robots got it right) 00:00 Weekend Warrior Life: Busy Schedules & Climbing Ambitions 03:07 Coach Nate Returns: Fresh Off Waco Tanks (and a 16-hour Drive) 05:16 Why Waco Matters: History, Style, and Coming Back After 7 Years 08:02 The Mystery Hand Injury: Rehab, PT Visits, and Still Sending 10:29 Low Dryer Send Story: Deconditioned, Tactical, and ‘Sport Climb’ a Boulder 14:05 Mindset Lesson: ‘Collecting Rejections’ Between Try Day and Send Day 20:06 Bouldering Trip Strategy: Limited ‘Great Goes,’ Rest, and Managing Stoke 25:58 Sponsor Break: Scarpa Veloce L + Kilter Board Training Setup 29:06 Ryan’s Vegas Injury & The Big Question: Am I Too Old for Outdoor Bouldering? 33:05 Gyms Are Too Tall: Risk, Training Value, and Smarter Bouldering as We Age 37:04 Indoor vs Outdoor Bouldering: Skills, Safety, and Choosing Lowballs 43:02 Injuries Happen: Low Back Pain, Randomness, and Playing Devil’s Advocate 43:59 Rope Climber’s Dilemma: Are Outdoor Bouldering Falls Worth It at 46? 45:19 Movement vs Highballs: “British vs French” Boulders & Why Classics Get Tall 47:58 Finding Low-Risk Outdoor Classics: Traverses, Short Gems, and Star Ratings 50:46 Bulldog/Puppy Dog Strategy: Pads, Topouts, and Managing the Mental Crux 54:04 Topout Skills Bootcamp: Mantles, Slabs, and Safe Practice in Chattanooga 56:20 How to Fall Better: Rolling, Tumbling Drills, and Building Confidence تدريجيًا 01:07:55 Keeping Sport Fitness During a Boulder Phase: ARC, 4x4s, and Seasonal Planning 01:16:56 Wrap-Up & Plugs: Coaching, “Affordable Atrocities,” and Supporting the Channel   - Shoutout to Aiden Schlatter for supporting at the Hero level on Patreon. A hero indeed! - Follow along on Instagram and YouTube: @thestruggleclimbingshow  - This show is produced and hosted by Ryan Devlin, and edited by Glen Walker. The Struggle is carbon-neutral in partnership with The Honnold Foundation and is a proud member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective, a diverse group of the best, most impactful podcasts in the outdoor industry.     And now here are some buzzwords to help the almighty algorithm get this show in front of people who love to climb: rock climbing, rock climber, climbing, climber, bouldering, sport climbing, gym climbing, how to rock climb, donuts are amazing. Okay, whew, that’s done. But hey, if you’re a human that’s actually reading this, and if you love this show (and love to climb) would you think about sharing this episode with a climber friend of yours? And shout it out on your socials? I’ll send you a sticker for doing it. Just shoot me a message on IG – thanks so much! 

Join the email list to get a FREE private finger training clinic with Dr. Tyler Nelson (normally $10) www.thestruggleclimbingshow.com/strong   Support the Show on Patreon Get access to all Pro Clinics, bonus episodes, and more. https://www.patreon.com/thestruggleclimbingshow   - Pro Climber, Ethan Salvo, explores: His rapid ascent from V1 to V16 in just 7 years Specific training for Lucid Dreaming  Adapting strength for his style  Being weak on a 20mm edge When to commit to beta on a project Learning to control his temper Pursuing perfection of movement Slowing down the projecting process The power of journaling  Letting the magic in  - BIG THANKS TO THE AMAZING SPONSORS OF THE STRUGGLE WHO LOVE ROCK CLIMBING AS MUCH AS YOU DO: PhysiVantage: the official climbing-nutrition sponsor of The Struggle. Train harder, recover faster, and feel better than ever. I love all their stuff! Use code STRUGGLE15 at checkout for 15% off your full-priced nutrition order. Kilter: Award winning, adjustable, light-up boards. I’m training on the Homewall Full Ride, and if you’re psyched to join me then use code STRUGGLE at checkout when you build your board, and you’ll score up to $1000 off plus a free gift pack let’s goooo!   And check out ALL the show’s awesome sponsors and exclusive deals at thestruggleclimbingshow.com/deals   - Shoutout to Aiden Schlatter for supporting at the Hero level on Patreon. A hero indeed! - Here are some AI generated show notes (hopefully the robots got it right) 00:00 Introduction to the Struggle Climbing Show 00:31 Meet Ethan Salvo: The Young Phenom 01:16 Ethan's Climbing Journey and Achievements 03:00 The Disappearance of Portable Boulder 03:59 Conversation with Ethan: Climbing Styles and Challenges 08:10 Ethan's Training and Nutrition Insights 36:54 Tactics and Mental Game in Climbing 42:03 Micro Beta and Climbing Style 44:12 Event Horizon: The Hardest Boulder in Canada 45:11 Tactical Insights and Gear Customization 54:51 Mindset and Mental Game in Climbing 01:02:57 The Joy of the Process and Achievement 01:11:29 Journaling and Embracing the Magic 01:22:44 Future Goals and Expanding Horizons - Follow along on Instagram @thestruggleclimbingshow and YouTube /@thestruggleclimbingshow - The Struggle is carbon-neutral in partnership with The Honnold Foundation, whose mission is to promote solar energy for a more equitable world. - This show is produced and hosted by Ryan Devlin, and edited by Glen Walker. The Struggle is a proud member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective, a diverse group of the best, most impactful podcasts in the outdoor industry. - The struggle makes us stronger! I hope your training and climbing are going great.  - And now here are some buzzwords to help the almighty algorithm get this show in front of people who love to climb: rock climbing, rock climber, climbing, climber, bouldering, sport climbing, gym climbing, how to rock climb, donuts are amazing. Okay, whew, that’s done. But hey, if you’re a human that’s actually reading this, and if you love this show (and love to climb) would you think about sharing this episode with a climber friend of yours? And shout it out on your socials? I’ll send you a sticker for doing it. Just shoot me a message on IG – thanks so much!   

Join the email list to get a FREE private finger training clinic with Dr. Tyler Nelson (normally $10) www.thestruggleclimbingshow.com/strong   Support the Show on Patreon Get access to all Pro Clinics, bonus episodes, and more. https://www.patreon.com/thestruggleclimbingshow   In this episode focused on all things wrists, Dr. Tyler Nelson brings the science and application, covering: Why there’s been a steady rise of wrist injuries in climbers How to train up wrist flexion strength to perform better on slopers  The reason bigger holds can be more injurious Google won't show you the most common climber injury Wrist Wrench vs. Rolling Thunder Set and rep scheme for wrist training To tape or not to tape? Recovery time frames for wrist injuries How to return to hard climbing faster after an injury - And check out ALL the show’s awesome sponsors and exclusive deals at thestruggleclimbingshow.com/deals   Check out Tyler's course on wrist injury and rehab, and his many other fantastic courses: https://www.camp4humanperformance.com/store - Here are some AI generated show notes (hopefully the robots got it right) 00:00 Introduction and Overview 00:27 Welcome and Guest Introduction 00:44 Understanding Wrist Injuries in Climbers 02:56 Personal Experiences and Injury Management 04:32 Training and Strengthening Techniques 46:24 Managing Wrist Injuries in Climbing 47:39 Personal Experiences with Wrist Pain 50:09 Common Wrist Injuries in Climbers 57:48 Recovery and Rehabilitation Strategies 01:15:23 Training Tips and Final Thoughts - Shoutout to Matt Waltereese for being a Victory Whip supporter on Patreon! So mega. - Follow along on Instagram and YouTube: @thestruggleclimbingshow  - This show is produced and hosted by Ryan Devlin, and edited by Glen Walker. The Struggle is carbon-neutral in partnership with The Honnold Foundation and is a proud member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective, a diverse group of the best, most impactful podcasts in the outdoor industry.   And now here are some buzzwords to help the almighty algorithm get this show in front of people who love to climb: rock climbing, rock climber, climbing, climber, bouldering, sport climbing, gym climbing, how to rock climb, donuts are amazing. Okay, whew, that’s done. But hey, if you’re a human that’s actually reading this, and if you love this show (and love to climb) would you think about sharing this episode with a climber friend of yours? And shout it out on your socials? I’ll send you a sticker for doing it. Just shoot me a message on IG – thanks so much! 

Join The Struggle’s Patreon community to get 100+ hours of Bonus Episodes, Pro Clinics, Uncut Videos, and Submit Questions for Future Guests. FREE TRIAL available!  https://www.patreon.com/thestruggleclimbingshow   In this Pro Clinic, climbing coach and dyno master Charlie Schreiber explores: The 5 pillars of mastering dynos The #1 issue that holds climbers back by up to 4 grades Beginner dyno training program Managing fear of injury The power of keeping a dyno journal Which specific setups and moves to practice in a gym setting  Where to program dyno training within other training and climbing  The Japanese chat code for dyno domination The specific biomechanics of a dyno and how to optimize each step - Enter the giveaway! https://www.thestruggleclimbingshow.com/charlie Work with Charlie: https://www.paradigmclimbing.com/ Follow Charlie: https://www.instagram.com/paradigm_climbing_coaching/ - Here are some AI generated show notes (hopefully the robots got it right) 00:00 Introduction and Welcome 00:29 Guest Introduction: Coach Charlie Schreiber 02:43 Charlie's Climbing Philosophy and Rocklands Trip 04:01 The Importance of Patience in Climbing 11:32 Defining Dynamic Climbing and Dynos 13:57 Key Elements for Successful Dynos 18:17 Overcoming Fear and Building Confidence 24:15 Practical Tips for Dino Training 28:49 Falling Practice and Safety 32:45 Advanced Dino Techniques and Variety 34:49 Conclusion and Giveaway Details   - Shoutout to Matt Waltereese for being a Victory Whip supporter on Patreon! So mega. - Follow along on Instagram and YouTube: @thestruggleclimbingshow  - This show is produced and hosted by Ryan Devlin, and edited by Glen Walker. The Struggle is carbon-neutral in partnership with The Honnold Foundation and is a proud member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective, a diverse group of the best, most impactful podcasts in the outdoor industry. - The struggle makes us stronger! Let's get out there and try hard. Thanks for supporting the show, y'all.  - And now here are some buzzwords to help the almighty algorithm get this show in front of people who love to climb: rock climbing, rock climber, climbing, climber, bouldering, sport climbing, gym climbing, how to rock climb, donuts are amazing. Okay, whew, that’s done. But hey, if you’re a human that’s actually reading this, and if you love this show (and love to climb) would you think about sharing this episode with a climber friend of yours? And shout it out on your socials? I’ll send you a sticker for doing it. Just shoot me a message on IG – thanks so much! 

Join the email list to get a FREE private finger training clinic with Dr. Tyler Nelson (normally $10) www.thestruggleclimbingshow.com/strong   Support the Show on Patreon Get access to all Pro Clinics, bonus episodes, and more. https://www.patreon.com/thestruggleclimbingshow   Weekend Warrior, Sara Berg, explores: How to fit climbing sessions into a very busy work and life schedule Dealing with injury and setbacks after having kids Working with Natasha Barnes on strength training Working with coach Matt Pincus on climber training The importance of a dialed warm-up for shoulders and fingers How she builds endurance even during her busiest seasons Working to build back her pyramid with a goal of 13a The benefits and drawbacks of having kids at the crag How to be a supportive climbing partner to friends who have kids - BIG THANKS TO THE AMAZING SPONSORS OF THE STRUGGLE WHO LOVE ROCK CLIMBING AS MUCH AS YOU DO: PhysiVantage: the official climbing-nutrition sponsor of The Struggle. Use code STRUGGLE15 at checkout for 15% off your full-priced nutrition order. Kilter: Award winning, adjustable, light-up board. It’s what I’m training on at home, and if you’re psyched to join me then use code STRUGGLE at checkout when you build your board, and you’ll score up to $1000 off plus a free gift pack let’s goooo!   And check out ALL the show’s awesome sponsors and exclusive deals at thestruggleclimbingshow.com/deals - Here are some AI generated show notes (hopefully the robots got it right) 00:00 Balancing Life and Climbing 00:23 Introduction to the Weekend Warrior Series 01:04 Meet Sara Berg: The Climbing Mom 02:20 Climbing Adventures with Sara 04:24 Sara's Climbing Journey and Family Life 12:39 Challenges of Climbing Post-Pregnancy 23:12 Training and Recovery Insights 28:11 Strength Training and Finger Protocols 34:35 Warming Up and Limit Bouldering 35:25 Switching to the Kilter Board 36:54 Aerobic Training on the Tread Wall 38:56 Fall Season Goals and Achievements 43:34 Climbing with Kids: Challenges and Strategies 51:25 Future Goals and Training Plans 01:02:43 Weekend Warrior Reflections 01:03:59 Personal Updates and Community Engagement - Shoutout to Matt Waltereese for being a Victory Whip supporter on Patreon! So mega. - Follow along on Instagram and YouTube: @thestruggleclimbingshow  Follow Sara on Instagram: @climblikeagirl - This show is produced and hosted by Ryan Devlin, and edited by Glen Walker. The Struggle is carbon-neutral in partnership with The Honnold Foundation and is a proud member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective, a diverse group of the best, most impactful podcasts in the outdoor industry. And now here are some buzzwords to help the almighty algorithm get this show in front of people who love to climb: rock climbing, rock climber, climbing, climber, bouldering, sport climbing, gym climbing, how to rock climb, donuts are amazing. Okay, whew, that’s done. But hey, if you’re a human that’s actually reading this, and if you love this show (and love to climb) would you think about sharing this episode with a climber friend of yours? And shout it out on your socials? I’ll send you a sticker for doing it. Just shoot me a message on IG – thanks so much!