Season 8, Episode 17: Golden Light, Velvet Flowers & a Warrior-Goddess’ Garden
Fancy a scented tour through unexpected florals (via toasted seeds and cool green leaves), autumnal sunsets in California, walled gardens where a warrior goddess might stroll, impeccably tailored heritage, and a gloriously gilded pop fantasy? Step right this way, because this week Suzy & Nicola are discussing perfumes for taking a calm breath, for making an entrance, for leaning into your own glow, and the pleasure of simply choosing the perfect scent to suit the moment.They’re also asking whether fragrance can influence mood, considering solid perfume in a new jelly-like form, and finding plenty to discuss in a line-up that moves from poised and polished to maximalist, sensual and gloriously escapist…Let’s dive in!Dries Van Noten Velvet VioletViolet is so often treated as a sugary, powdery floral that it is genuinely refreshing to find it approached from a greener, more fashion-conscious angle. Here, the leaf is the real focus, giving a cool, woody freshness that feels crisp and modern rather than cosmetic. Pink pepper adds a fizzy brightness, then the texture shifts. Toasted sesame is nutty and savoury, barley brings a softly cereal-like warmth, and vetiver with tonka bean leaves a smooth, earthy-gourmand glow on skin.The effect is tactile and surprisingly chic, with a lovely tension between freshly crushed green leaves and the almost skin-like warmth of toasted seeds. This is violet for those who usually avoid violet, and a quietly unusual choice for anyone who likes their florals with a little friction.Notes: Violet leaf, pink pepper, sesame, barley, vetiver, tonka bean.L’Objet AlentoNamed for a word that can mean breath, spirit, encouragement and vital energy, this is a perfume conceived as an olfactory pause. The opening is bright with juicy orange, though aldehydes give it a sparkling, airy lift that stops it from becoming too obviously fruity. Orange blossom flows through the heart with a fresh, creamy radiance, before lactones, vanilla, ambergris and white musks soften into a cocooning, close-to-skin finish.It feels less like a perfume that announces itself and more like a gentle return to oneself. There is a luminous cleanliness to it, but enough milkiness, warmth and musk to make it feel sensual rather than merely fresh. A lovely choice for anyone craving comfort that still has a little glow about it.Notes: Top: Orange, aldehydes Heart: Orange blossom, fresh floral notes, lactones Base: Vanilla, ambergris, white musksL’Objet OjaiThis begins with the imagined warmth of a California afternoon, when the air is bright with citrus and green things, and the earth has started to hold onto the day’s heat. Bergamot, a green note and cardamom have a breezy, aromatic freshness, before the mango comes through with a rich, softly tropical glow. Bulgarian rose and saffron lend colour and texture, making the fruit feel more nuanced than merely juicy.As it settles, patchouli, frankincense and vanilla bring a dusky, ambery depth that is far more soulful than a straightforward fruity floral. It smells like sun on skin, fruit warmed on the branch, and a trace of incense carried through an open window. This is for days when a perfume needs to offer an instant sense of escape, while still feeling grounded and wearable.Notes: Top: Bergamot, green note, cardamom Heart: Mango, Bulgarian rose, saffron Base: Patchouli, frankincense, vanillaBoadicea the Victorious AndrasteThis is a full, dramatic walled garden scent, where hot brick, flowering vines, crushed greenery and aromatic herbs all seem to release their perfume at once. It has the kind of lavish, maximalist construction that Boadicea the Victorious does so well, combining cool eucalyptus and smoky Lapsang Souchong tea with saffron, thyme and a cascade of flowers. Honeysuckle, wisteria, jasmine and rose create an all-consuming floral richness, while powdered orris, ambrette, leather, fumed woods and vetiver darken the edges.There is a sense of strength to it, but it does not feel remotely austere. This is floral drama with a leather-lined, resinous, slightly feral undercurrent. It has the atmosphere of a garden after a storm, when everything smells wetter, greener, hotter and more alive. Wear it when you want perfume to feel like a form of armour, a flourish of theatricality, and a reminder to take up rather more space.Notes: Eucalyptus, Lapsang Souchong tea, saffron, thyme, honeysuckle, wisteria, jasmine, Lady Emma Hamilton rose, citrus notes, orris, ambrette, leather, fumed woods, vetiver.Huntsman x Truefitt & Hill CologneThe idea here is understated luxury, and it does that most convincingly by avoiding the kind of brash, traditional barbershop clichés one might expect. The opening has a bright, aromatic polish from bergamot, lemon, cardamom, pink pepper, saffron and elemi, feeling brisk but never sharp. Then the rose and violet arrive, adding soft floral refinement, while tobacco absolute gives the heart a gentle smokiness and richness.Vanilla pod, guaiac wood, tonka bean and cedarwood create a warm, smooth finish that gives this more depth than a conventional cologne. It is elegant without being fussy, and classic without smelling as though it has been preserved behind glass. The overall impression is of someone beautifully dressed, completely at ease and not remotely interested in making a fuss about it.Notes:Top: Bergamot, cardamom, pink pepper, saffron, lemon, elemiHeart: Damask rose, tobacco absolute, violet, petitgrainBase: Vanilla pod, guaiac wood, tonka bean, cedarwoodBritney Spears Goddess FantasyIf fragrance is sometimes about serious artistry, it can also be about joy, memory, confidence and indulging the part of oneself that would like to feel a little more fabulous. This goes wholeheartedly into that mood. Golden mango, mandarin and bergamot bring juicy, sunlit sweetness, while jasmine absolute, Turkish rose and orange blossom give the heart a lush, glamorous floral bloom.The dry-down is where the Fantasy family resemblance really comes through. Benzoin, vanilla buttercream and gilded musk create a warm, creamy sweetness that feels designed for unapologetic pleasure. It is bright, pretty and noticeably gourmand, but the citrus opening stops it becoming too dense. Think glossy lips, warm skin, golden light and the sheer morale boost of deciding that one is, in fact, the main character.Notes:Top: Golden mango, mandarin, bergamotHeart: Jasmine absolute, Turkish rose, orange blossomBase: Warm benzoin, vanilla buttercream, gilded muskJoonbyrd Mood JelliesThese portable water-based solid fragrances are intended as little mood rituals, with each jelly pairing a different scent profile with Bacillus ferment and neuroscience-led wellbeing claims. It is always worth holding such claims lightly, because scent is personal and context-dependent. Yet there is something rather charming about matching fragrance to a desired state of mind, particularly when the format is so playful and easy to carry around.BlissApple gives this a crisp, cheerful lift, jasmine brings a soft floral bloom, and woods with labdanum provide a mellow, gently resinous warmth. It sounds like the most easy-going of the trio, designed for a comforting, sunny sort of uplift.Notes: Apple, jasmine, woods, labdanum.ConfidencePeach and saffron make for a warm, radiant opening, while oak moss and ambroxan lend dry, musky structure. This has the most polished, skin-scent-like profile of the three, with enough fruitiness to feel friendly but enough moss and woody amber character to provide presence.Notes: Peach, saffron, oak moss, ambroxan.PeaceViolet and orris create a soft, powdery hush, while vetiver and cedarwood add rooty calm. Cacao brings a subtle darkness and comfort, making this the most introspective choice. It feels made for the end of a busy day, when one wants a small personal pause rather than a big perfume performance.Notes: Violet, vetiver, cacao, cedarwood, orris.Also mentioned: Buy the just-published third print issue of On The Scent magazine here!https://www.onthescentmedia.com/shopAnd read the news and blog here:https://www.onthescentmedia.com/news
