Training for Altitude: Performance at Altitude with Jerome Sullivan

The Uphill Athlete podcast returns with host Alyssa Clark and UA coach Alexa Hasman discussing reframing failure as a learning opportunity rather than a negative outcome. They emphasize the value of compassion and growth through their shared personal experiences with DNFs (Did Not Finish. They highlight factors like internal pressure, safety concerns, and lack of enjoyment. They stress the importance of understanding personal motivators, such as joy and social connection, and how these impact performance. They conclude that ultimately failure and DNFs lead to resilience and setbacks are part of the journey to achieving bigger goals.Visit us at uphillathlete.com or write to use at [email protected] 

Voice of the Mountains host Steve House welcomes renowned climber Conrad Anker on to the podcast. They discuss Conrad's journey in mountaineering, his philosophy, and his leadership within the climbing community. They reflect on lessons learned in their own early climbing experiences, noting how climbing became a way to understand themselves and build resilience.Conrad emphasizes the motivations behind mountaineering, contrasting reward-seeking with purpose-driven pursuits. He describes his path from climbing as a youth in the Sierra Nevada to his extensive expeditions across the world. They discuss the importance of trust and connection between climbing partners, as well as the responsibilities and ethical considerations in leadership, especially within the climbing community.Conrad also shares insights into his work with the Khumbu Climbing Center (KCC) in Nepal, which provides education and training to Sherpa climbers. The conversation highlights Conrad's belief in silent leadership, leading by example, supporting others, and focusing on collective success rather than personal accolades.The two legends of climbing reflect on legacy, risk, loss, and the impact of experiencing grief in the climbing world. Tune in for an episode full of wisdom and empathy we can all learn from.

The Uphill Athlete podcast welcomes mountain athlete, ultra runner and Uphill Athlete ambassador Gabe Joyes for a discussion with host Alyssa Clark. Gabe and Alyssa discuss his journey from being a backpacker to transitioning into competitive trail and stage racing, including his recent third place finish in the Dragon's Back Race in Wales. They break down his training approach, gear choices, challenges he faced, racing strategies, and his favorite aspects of the race. Gabe credits years of consistent training, adaptability, and thoughtful preparation for his success and shares his wisdom with listeners interested in stage racing or multi-day events. Tune in for a fun and enlightening conversation with Gabe!Check out more information on coaching or racing at uphillathlete.com or write to us at [email protected] 

In this episode, host Alyssa Clark and RD Alyssa Leib discuss the role of fat oxidation, fasted training, and Low Carb High Fat (LCHF) diets in endurance training. They explain that fat oxidation, or the body’s use of fat as fuel, is crucial for ultra-endurance athletes. But, aerobic training will improve fat oxidation rather than strict low-carb diets or fasting. They also dive in to how fasted training has negative effects on performance, health, and training quality. Uphill Athlete’s updated stance emphasizes that the risks of fasted training, such as low energy availability, outweigh its benefits. They also discuss how LCHF diets, do not have evidence to support claims of improved endurance. Studies show limited performance gains and potential health risks, especially in high-altitude environments. Alyssa and Alyssa note that athletes should focus on balanced, fueling, especially with carbohydrates, and prioritize consistent training over restrictive dietary approaches.If you'd like to read more, check out our three articles linked below:https://uphillathlete.com/nutrition/fat-adaptation/https://uphillathlete.com/nutrition/the-impact-of-fasted-training-on-performance/https://uphillathlete.com/nutrition/high-fat-low-carb-diet-ultra-endurance-performance/Please visit uphillathlete.com to learn more about our nutrition coaching options or write to us at [email protected] 

Most of us will never reach the pinnacle of our most passionate pursuit, no matter how driven we are. Our guest today has, through dedication, creativity and ingenuity, reached the pinnacle of three of his passions.Beginning with a unique journey to discover climbing and skiing, then the discovery of an interest in photography, which finally led to becoming a premiere feature and documentary filmmaker, Jimmy Chin has forged his path with resilience, empathy, and a desire to tell important stories.Jimmy’s accolades and accomplishments speak volumes about a climber and artist who has pushed boundaries and silenced doubters. But it has always been the manner with which Jimmy has achieved that is most impressive. Steve and Jimmy discuss the evolution of his career and the catalyst for picking up a camera in the pursuit of climbing. They dive into the moral qualms Jimmy had shooting Free Solo and how and why he decided to create the award-winning documentary. Tune in for a conversation between two legends of the sport.Check out the companion essay and more information on Voice of the Mountains here:https://uphillathlete.com/voiceofthemountains/

In the latest episode of the Uphill Athlete podcast, Chantelle and Alyssa break down the ins and outs of coaching. They discuss how and why you might need a coach, what to expect, how to get the most out of your experience and much more. They talk about why coaching is the best way to learn about yourself and prepare in the most specific way for your objective. It also helps ensure your training load is tailored to you for not only best performance but injury prevention, overall health, and well-being. Learn more about why coaching might be right for you and how Uphill can best set you up for success.Write to us at: [email protected] or visit us at uphillathlete.com to learn more. 

Cory Richards returns to the Uphill Athlete podcast for an in-depth conversation with Steve. The two discuss Cory’s book, The Color of Everything currently available by book or audiobook. The memoir delves into Cory's life from childhood to his career as a photographer, climber, mental health advocate among many other pieces of his identity. Steve and Cory discuss the book’s exploration of various psychological challenges like bipolar disorder, addiction, and narcissism and how they serve not only to highlight individual struggles but also to reflect on the universal nature of storytelling in shaping our identities. Tune in for a wonderful discussion on a powerful story.Check out Cory's book on amazon and all other major platforms. Visit us at uphillathlete.com 

On the latest episode of Voice of the Mountains, Steve is joined by one of the most accomplished young climbers on the planet, Sasha DiGiulian. Sasha fell in love with the sport at her older brother's birthday party at a climbing gym when she was six years old. Within a year, she was competing and by the time she graduated from high school, she was red, pointing 5.14. She continued climbing while a student at Columbia University and rattled off several U.S. and Pan-American sport climbing championships, adding a world championship gold medal in the all around in 2011. Sasha has dozens of first free ascents around the world to her name and however impressive Sasha is on the rock, she may be even more impressive off of it. She's a filmmaker, an activist and an author. Like so many climbers, Sasha has firsthand knowledge of the sport's inherent dangers and tragedies, which she bravely shares. And like too many women in our sport, Sasha has had unfortunate firsthand experiences with some of the chauvinistic gatekeeping, which sadly is still prevalent in climbing as well as in our wider culture. Steve and Sasha explore Sasha’s unique role in the climbing world and the dualities she has discovered throughout her career.If you'd like to learn more about Voice of the Mountains, check out the website: https://uphillathlete.com/voiceofthemountains/Or visit us at uphillathlete.com

In the latest Uphill Athlete episode, Alyssa and Chantelle discuss the most commonly asked questions from Uphill Athletes. The topic of their discussion revolves around training zones, what they are, how to use them, and how to set them up for your training. They break down the procedures of establishing aerobic and anaerobic thresholds and why you might need training zones. Lastly, they touch on Rate of Perceived Exertion and Aerobic Deficiency Syndrome in regards to the evolution of training principles and guidance. If you’ve ever wondered about training zones, this episode will answer all your questions.Useful articles: https://uphillathlete.com/aerobic-training/aerobic-anaerobic-threshold-self-assessment/https://uphillathlete.com/aerobic-training/heart-rate-drift/

Steve welcomes long time climbing partner, extremely accomplished mountain athlete, IFMGA guide, Piolet d‘Or winner, owner of Skyward mountaineering, dad, and husband, Vince Anderson, to the podcast. They discuss their groundbreaking ascent of the Rupal face on Nanga Parbat in 2005 and work to find meaning and understanding of the origin of thoughts, feelings, and motivations in the mountains. They connect those findings back to established schools of thought and the experience they had on Nanga Parbat. With the framework of the climbs, Steve and Vince try to unpack the meaning of suffering and the undying belief in the meaning and importance of their actions. On the 19th anniversary of their landmark climb, these two legends of the sport share their wisdom and learnings from years of hard earned experience.Check out more information on this episode at: https://uphillathlete.com/voiceofthemountains/