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The Cascade’s Missing Mountains

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For too many years, too many people thought that the Native people of the Pacific Northwest didn’t venture into the mountains. This idea wasn’t just a trope of settlers and other newcomers, who often employed the concept as a means to justify making mining claims, harvesting trees, or taking land. So ingrained was this characterization of the Native people’s avoidance of the high country that historians, ethnologists, and archaeologists failed to even look to the mountains as landscapes valued and visited by the area’s long term residents.

And, yet Indigenous people who lived in the vicinity of these mountains have incorporated their presence into their culture since time immemorial. Or as Rick McClure, a retired United States Forest Service (USFS) archaeologist, and Nathan Reynolds, formerly an ethnoecologist with the Cowlitz Indian Tribe, have written, stories centered on the Cascades run through people’s veins. In a scholarly article, they posit that stories help teach life lessons not only between people but also between people and the spiritual forces they share their home with.1 The volcanoes link past and present, myth time and daily life, landscape and spirituality. They are more than just physical features; they are members of the community, living entities that impact people’s lives.

One way these relationships manifest themselves is in the many names by which the volcanoes are known. For example, a recent analysis by Puyallup Tribal language consultant Zalmai ʔəswəli Zahir, listed twenty different names for what is known as Mount Rainier, such as dəxʷwak’ʷ (Twana) and taqʷuʔman (Puyallup).2 The names of other volcanoes include kweq’ smánit (Nooksack) and kwelshán (Lummi) for Mount Baker; tda-ko-buh-ba (Sauk-Suiattle) for Glacier Peak; pátu (Cowlitz and Yakama) for Mount Adams; and lawetlat’la (Cowlitz and Yakama) for Mount St. Helens. On so many levels, it’s clear that the region’s long term residents have long visited and explored the Cascades.

Ironically, it appears that non-Native people were the ones who weren’t visiting the Cascades. Or, they weren’t very good observers of the mountains, at least as illustrated by early maps. Consider the state’s five volcanoes. In 1792, when George Vancouver sailed into the Whulge, or what he called Puget Sound, he saw three of the five. He named them Mount Baker, Mount Rainier, and Mount St. Helens, which led to their subsequent placement on virtually every map to follow. Such was not the case with Glacier Peak or Mount Adams, which took decades for early explorers and cartographers apparently to notice and to place on their maps.

The name Mount Adams wasn’t coined until 1839, when an energetic and enthusiastic promoter of Oregon, Hall Jackson Kelley, proposed that the Cascades should be known as the President’s Range. With their bold summits rising thousands of feet, the mountains are topped by “barren sides in the naked deformity of rock, lava, cinders, or whatever else might have come glowing…from the deep-caverned volcanic cauldrons below,” wrote Kelley in a Memoir he sent to the US Congress. Kelley gave little reasoning for his choice though it’s an obvious attention getter and one designed to appeal to politicians.

Perhaps, in an attempt to make his names stand out and give them precedence over other names, Kelley substituted Adams for the long standing name of Mt. Hood in Oregon. Further illustrating the lack of geographic knowledge about Adams, other writers and travelers moved Adams north and applied it to Mount St. Helens, though only in written descriptions and not on maps. Not until 1853 does Adams begin to show up on a map (and most subsequent ones) and claim its place as the fourth volcano in the state. In particular, the Pacific Railroad survey—under the leadership of Isaac I. Stevens and with information provided by my pal George B. McClellan—produced one of the more detailed maps to include Adams. The map, however, put Adams 20 miles east of where it actually exists.

Glacier Peak presented a far greater challenge to settlers, miners, and explorers, none of whom mention it in 19th century journals or notes. Either they didn’t see the great volcano or didn’t deem it worthy of mentioning. The name does not appear in print until 1880 when an unnamed reporter for the Columbia Twice-a-Week Chronicle (Dayton, WA) wrote on September 11 that a group of hunters and prospectors were heading up toward Glacier Peak.

“This peak is comparatively unknown even to the people of the state in which it lies.” August 31, 1890, Fairhaven Herald

The name would not appear again in the newspaper until 1889, followed again the next year. Published in the Fairhaven Herald on August 31, 1890, the story mentions a F. I. Dunham, who was seeking out a low pass for the Great Northern RR. Dunham didn’t reach the summit but did report on the peak’s volcanic origins, as illustrated by “ancient lava beds” he saw. The article further noted that Dunham and his partner Tompkins were assisted by a Native guide “who was familiar with all the places through which the Indians were in the habit of bringing their ponies.”

Intriguingly, Glacier Peak, with the modifier Great, appeared on a map in 1874. How the mapmakers got that information and why the name didn’t spread is unknown: the name wouldn’t appear again on a map until 1892, in W.H. Pumphrey’s Map of Western Washington. One reason the new name may have begun to spread can be seen on Pumphrey’s map. Just below Glacier Peak is the Monte Cristo mining district, which in the early 1890s was entering its heyday as the most famous mining area in the state. The name Glacier Peak eventually became widespread but maps as late as 1904 were still omitting it and some cartographers grappled with the spelling, such as Glazier Peak.

Mr. Dunham’s recognition of the volcanic origin of Glacier Peak is notable because geologists didn’t report that it was a volcano until 1900. Two reasons contributed to the lack of understanding: the first was that Glacier lacked the classic volcanic cones of Rainier, Adams, Baker, and St. Helens. Nor had it erupted in the time when non-Native people explored and lived in the region. Glacier did, though, erupt between 1700 and 1800 and produced pumice and ash, along with lahars but geologists didn’t find the evidence until the 1980s.

“The mountains at present active are Baker, St. Helens and as it has recently been ascertained Mt. Hood and probably Mt. Rainier also, though to a degree hardly perceptible from below. The Indians on Puget Sound state that another smaller peak to the north of Mount Rainier once smoked.” Report of George Gibbs Upon the Geology of the Central Portion of Washington Territory May 1, 1854

From myth time to modern time, volcanoes have been central to the residents of this region. The mountains have shaped landscape and culture. They have inspired us and they have scared us. Esteemed for their permanence yet also prone to self-destruction, Washington’s volcanoes are our state’s quintessential symbols, and with that comes a rich history of connection to their human…



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