Essential Leatherworking Tools: Smart Buys and Costly Mistakes to Avoid

In this episode:How Ted grew up in a family of collectorsThe unexpected $6 auction purchase that started his tool obsessionMore than 40 years of collecting antique toolsRestoring thousands of vintage hand toolsHow buying and selling helped Ted build a higher-end collectionTurning a lifelong hobby into Ted Dawson Antique ToolsWhy collectors love "the hunt"Leatherworking tools dating as far back as the 1830sWhy old tools were often built for functionality and repairabilityVintage C.S. Osborne, Gomph, Johnson and Barnsley toolsOversized vintage leather edgersA rare adjustable French edgerAntique leather draw gauges and strap cuttersA nineteenth-century Huber draw gaugeBarnsley leather plowsBrazilian rosewood tool handlesThe difference between modern and vintage tool ergonomicsHow decades of use physically wear into antique toolsThe craftsmanship and ornamentation of nineteenth-century toolsWhy high-quality modern hand tools still exist — but serve a smaller marketWhy a vintage Stanley can sometimes provide the same functionality as a much more expensive modern hand planeThe surprisingly deep world of vintage vise collectingUsing vises and custom jigs to make a shop more versatilePolish FPU and Bison vises with reverse-moving jawsWhat to inspect before buying a vintage toolWhy rust and seized components aren't always dealbreakersWhy broken or missing internal parts can be much bigger problemsTed's approach to restorationWhere to find Ted's collection of user tools and collector piecesFind out more about our guest on his WebsiteFollow the show: leathershoppod.com · @leathershoppodSupport on Patreon for early episodes and bonus content.

GuestJake HoustonHouston Boot CompanyWhat You'll HearJake's journey from professional musician to full-time cowboy bootmakerLearning bootmaking through repair work and independent studyWhy stingray leather sparked the entire businessWorking with kangaroo, horsehide, elephant, alligator, and crocodileUnderstanding CITES regulations and state-by-state restrictionsMaterial costs and sourcing premium exotic leathersHow cowboy boot sizing differs from sneakersWhy arch length matters more than shoe sizeChoosing and modifying lasts for bespoke footwearTraditional cowboy boot construction and quality indicatorsLeather insoles, welts, stacked heels, and wood pegsWhy custom boot fitting is far more involved than off-the-shelf sizingHow Houston Boot Company StartedJake explains how leather carving began as a hobby while he was performing as a country musician. After searching unsuccessfully for a custom pair of stingray cowboy boots, he decided to learn bootmaking himself, eventually opening Houston Boot Company after studying repair work and traditional construction methods.Choosing Leather for Cowboy BootsThe conversation compares several premium leathers, including kangaroo for its strength-to-weight ratio, horsehide for its appearance, elephant for durability, and the unique challenges of working with stingray and alligator. Material selection depends not only on appearance but also on workability, longevity, and intended use.Sizing Custom BootsJake explains why proper cowboy boot fitting begins with arch length instead of overall foot length. The discussion covers Brannock measurements, width sizing, custom lasts, heel height, and how bespoke boots are built around an individual's foot rather than forcing the wearer into a standard size.Inside a Handmade Cowboy BootFrom leather insoles and welt construction to stacked leather heels and wood-pegged shanks, Jake walks through many of the details that distinguish handmade boots from mass-produced footwear and explains why those traditional construction methods continue to matter today.Find out more about our guest on his WebsiteFollow the show: leathershoppod.com · @leathershoppodSupport on Patreon for early episodes and bonus content.

dsfdGrant Anderson runs Uptown Common, a small handmade shop known for structured purses, briefcases, and bags with a distinctive double-color stitch line. This spring he launched a second venture, The Leather Reserve, importing MPG Industria hides from Italy after a discontinued leather nearly cost him a sale. Matt and Grant get into the making and the business in equal measure.Highlights:The used King Ranch F-150 whose saddle-leather interior sent Grant looking for a bag — and eventually into making his own.Why he wet-forms nearly everything, and how he builds gusset forms out of stacked acrylic (with a belt-strap molding idea to kill clamp marks).The two-color saddle stitch: four needles, two threads, and a "leapfrog" rhythm that skips every other hole.Switching from waxed linen to Tiger/Ritza polyester after breaking thread mid-stitch.The Barry King maul, and why a $90 hammer changed how the work felt.How one discontinued hide turned into a corporation and a wire transfer to Italy in about three weeks.Why a 50 sq-meter tannery minimum (~35 hides per color) keeps makers from buying direct.The MPG lines coming in: Apollo, Aragona (corrected grain), and Vakeda (tumbled), plus a custom deep-red veg tan.Episode Breakdown:0:00 – Welcome and guest intro1:02 – How Grant got into leather2:09 – The King Ranch truck that started it3:20 – Why leather longevity (and care) matters4:26 – Hobby to business: Uptown Common6:01 – Why most makers avoid bags8:59 – Wet-forming for structured bags12:15 – Acrylic forms, molds, and the strap trick19:10 – Tools that matter: the Barry King maul20:50 – Hand stitching vs. machine24:22 – The jig rabbit hole27:09 – The two-color saddle stitch29:47 – How the four-needle "leapfrog" stitch works36:19 – Stitching ponies and their frustrations42:54 – The Leather Reserve origin story47:17 – Why makers can't buy direct (minimums and shipping)49:46 – What makes MPG leather different55:12 – The Apollo, Aragona, and Vacchetta lines1:02:00 – Five-year plans for both brands1:08:18 – Leather weight and the splitting-machine question1:13:03 – Listener questions and where to find Grant💬 Join the Leather Shop DiscordSupport us on Patreon🧰 Check the Amazon Tool List👉 Follow on Instagram: @leathershoppod👉 More episodes: leathershoppod.com👉 All links & resources: Linktree

Guest: Alexis SaabSponsor: NonePrimary Topic: Building a small leather goods brand from a custom footwear backgroundCTA: Listen to the full conversation on The Leather Shop Podcast at leathershoppod.com, Spotify, Apple Podcasts, and wherever you listen. Follow @leathershoppod for new episodes and clips.Discussed in this episodeAlexis’s move from custom sneakers into small leather goodsThe early direction for his new brand, Back HomeDesigning a logo that works when stamped into leatherWhy detailed artwork can fail when pressed into certain leather typesThe skull-and-halo concept behind the Back Home markLearning leather through footwear, scrap leather, and experimentationChrome tan versus veg tan from a maker’s point of viewWhy shoe patterns are harder than wallet patternsSneakers, boots, and dress shoes as different craft disciplinesRush-order stress and the cost of mistakes in custom footwearHeat-activated glue and sole attachmentPost-bed machines, roller feet, and stitching around curvesBell skivers, machine maintenance, and workshop spaceLeather community versus shoemaking communitySelling through design instead of only selling materialAlexis’s long-term goal of creating his own shoe silhouette

Mike from BulSae Leather joins Matt in this deep‑dive into Korea’s vibrant leathercraft culture. Starting with a single wallet and fueled by a passion to “make things that last longer than our lifetime,” Mike has built BulSae Leather into a small but mighty workshop known for its clean design, uncompromising hand‑work, and thoughtful storytelling. In this episode you’ll hear how a childhood fascination turned into a full‑time craft, why the name BulSae—Korean for “phoenix”—represents both heritage and reinvention, and how Mike balances tradition with modern tools in a world where “handmade” is often gate‑kept.💬 Join the Leather Shop Discord🧰 Check the Amazon Tool List👉 Follow on Instagram: @leathershoppod👉 More episodes: leathershoppod.com👉 All links & resources: LinktreeSupport us on Patreon

IMatt sits down with Shane from Bow the Maker to talk about the tools every leatherworker thinks they need — and the ones that actually matter.From $12 Amazon pliers to top-shelf skiving knives, they break down which tools perform, which ones disappoint, and how to buy smarter without wasting money. The two also tackle social media “tool envy,” influencer reviews, and how to build a functional bench setup at any level.“You don’t need the prettiest tools — you need the ones that work for you.”💬 Join the Leather Shop Discord🧰 Check the Amazon Tool List👉 Follow on Instagram: @leathershoppod👉 More episodes: leathershoppod.com👉 All links & resources: LinktreeSupport us on Patreon

In this episode, Matt talks with Will Hodges of Treve Cambridge about the art of fine leatherwork. They explore the tools and techniques behind luxury craftsmanship, from handling exotic skins to achieving precision with stitching and skiving.👉 Follow on Instagram: @leathershoppod👉 More episodes: leathershoppod.com👉 Recommended tools: Amazon Shop👉 All links & resources: LinktreeSupport us on Patreon

Inside Mack Provisions: Craftsmanship Beyond the FieldIn this episode of The Leather Shop, Matt Roach is joined by KC of Mack Provisions, a handmade baseball glove company rooted in old-school leatherworking and modern craftsmanship. From glove relacing as a teenager to launching a full-time custom glove brand, KC shares his journey, philosophy, and what makes his gloves truly unique.Whether you're a leatherworker, player, or lover of timeless design, this is your behind-the-scenes pass into glove-making at its finest.🔍 Episode HighlightsWhy Chrome-Tanned Leather Reigns SupremeHow KC Learned Craftsmanship in an Alaskan Tent ShopThe Horween Leather AdvantageCanvas vs. Leather: What You Need to KnowThe Great Glove Break-In DebateTools of the Trade: Cylinder Arm Machines, Tex 135 Thread, and MoreWhy Suede Welting is Making a ComebackAbout KC & Mack ProvisionsKC started relacing gloves for teammates at age 13. After stints in Alaska sewing canvas tents and marine gear, he transitioned into building premium handmade baseball gloves using materials like Horween’s Ball Glove X leather, real shearling padding, and custom welting techniques.His approach blends nostalgia with durability, favoring rugged, vintage aesthetics and minimal synthetic components. Each glove is made to order, emphasizing craftsmanship over mass production.📷 Follow KC on Instagram: @mackprovisionsCraft Tips from the EpisodeThe Truth About Glove Construction“Sewing a baseball glove is the hardest thing I’ve ever sewn—and I’ve worked on yachts, tents, and boat canvas.” – KCWhy Thread and Machine Choice MatterUse UV-rated nylon thread like Tex 135, and invest in a cylinder arm machine for maximum control.Break-in MethodsSkip the water dunk. Use a mallet and play catch for best results—especially when using wool padding.Related Episodes🎙️ How Scott Makes Gloves: The Deep Craft of Baseball LeatherFollow & SubscribeStay up to date with new episodes, behind-the-scenes posts, and leather drops:🎧 Subscribe on Apple Podcasts and Spotify📷 Follow us on Instagram & TikTok🌐 Visit leathershoppod.com for more📌 Know someone obsessed with baseball or handmade goods? Share this episode!Support us on Patreon

Guest: Stevie, founder of Hellbound and Back LeatherHost: Matt Roach | @leathershoppodWhat We Cover:How Stevie pivoted from trauma healthcare to custom leatherworkDesigning niche gear for trap shooting and shotgun sportsWhat it's like being a left-handed maker in a right-handed worldTools, templates, wet molding, and avoiding edge paint at all costsMom life, creative hustle, and pricing one-off commissionsMentions:Trap shooting tips and terminologyBonded stiffeners like BontexEdge paint favorites: Giardini vs. VerniceListen if you love: leatherworking, craft entrepreneurship, gear for sports, or behind-the-scenes process talk from makers who live it.🎯 Rate + review us on Apple Podcasts or Spotify to help more leather lovers find the show.Connect with Us:Website: leathershoppod.comInstagram & TikTok: @leathershoppodSupport us on Patreon

In Part 2 of our maker Q&A, Shane Bowman (Bow the Maker) is back with Matt to tackle more of your leathercraft questions. This episode is all about tools, technique, and getting real about the ups and downs of making. Whether you're a beginner wondering how to design your first pattern or an experienced maker debating hand stitching vs. machine work, there's something here for you.What We Cover in This Episode:Why Vinymo is Shane's go-to thread—and what other budget-friendly options are out thereThe truth about thread sizing, sheen, and durabilityPattern-making 101: the analog method Shane recommends for beginnersThe best ways to work through a creative blockTools that are truly worth your money (parallel pliers, anyone?)A real talk breakdown on hand-stitching vs. machine-stitchingWhy community support is essential—and where to find itFree Digital 3D Printing Jig PatternWant to try fixing your Sinabroks French Style Pricking Irons? Now you can, below are multiple ways for you get get a jig to print yourself or buy one that can be made and mailed to you.Purchase premade from Leather Shop WebsiteMakers World Download- (For Bambu Labs Printers.)Download the file from PrintablesDigital File from Leather Shop WebsiteConnect with Us:Website: leathershoppod.comInstagram & TikTok: @leathershoppodSupport us on Patreon🛠️ Hosted by Matt Roach | Guest: Shane Bowman (@bowthemaker) Website