Fratello Talks: Our Watch Pet Peeves Vol. II

No watch is perfect, and even the most enthusiastic collectors have their limits. It might be a poorly finished detail, an uncomfortable clasp, or a design choice that makes you wonder what the brand was thinking. Some things are easy to overlook, while others can ruin the experience of wearing an otherwise excellent watch. In today's episode of Fratello Talks, Nacho, RJ, and Daan return with a second round of watch pet peeves. The discussion covers everything from bad leather straps and cheap folding clasps to poorly executed date windows and a lack of antireflective coatings. These might seem like minor details, but they can make a real difference to how a watch looks, feels, and wears. Of course, those are just a few of the annoyances on the list. There are plenty more to discuss, and we're keeping some of the best ones for the episode.

Welcome to another episode of Fratello On Air! This week, we discuss German watch brands, focusing on the sportier marques. There's no doubt about it; this show is close to our hearts. Balazs lives in the Fatherland, and Mike spent 12 years there. Therefore, we've built an appreciation for these companies.Ah, Germany! If you've listened to us for any length of time, you know we enjoy poking harmless fun at mainland Europe's economic center. That said, the watches from the "Land" are anything but funny. While the Swiss may receive most of the glory, German watch brands are no slouches. In this installment, we walk through some of the key ones, add our personal experiences with each, and mention models. Enjoy the show!HandgelenkskontrolleSome of you will appreciate that our episode on German watch brands is appropriately serious. In other words, there is zero banter! Instead, Mike starts with a story about a vintage watch he purchased a couple of years ago. The chronograph ran beautifully until, all of a sudden, it didn't. For whatever reason, this past weekend, he decided to chat with friends and pull out his inexpensive blue demagnetizer. This tool was used in concert with an app called Magnetick and another called Oscillo, yielding amazing results. The first app helped detect that the watch was magnetized, while the second acts as a timegrapher. What was the watch? Well, it happens to be the watch Mike wore for his Handgelenkskontrolle, a 1947 Breitling Chronomat 769. Balazs is wearing the recently reviewed Albishorn Type X-Graph.German watch brandsHuge thanks to Balazs for researching the brands' backstories for this episode and being our travel guide. We kick off the discussion with arguably the most well-known German tool watch company. Sinn, from Frankfurt am Main, has been one of our favorites for more than a decade. Mike even owns a handful of these watches. We mention our visits with the brand, its unrelenting focus on creating useful watches for specific environments, and these pieces' no-nonsense designs. Next, we move to Hanhart in Gütenbach. This brand is best-known for its chronographs, including the 417 ES worn by Steve McQueen. We share our admiration for this heritage brand's overall quality and attention to detail.Tutima takes us to the famous town of Glashütte in eastern Germany. This company is also known for its robust pilot chronographs. Today, that continues, but it also focuses on higher-end dress watches. We stay in town and mention Mühle Glashütte. This relatively under-the-radar marque produces fantastic tool watches at relatively approachable prices. We mention collectors' serious devotion to this brand.Brands are located throughout the countryBalazs has us racking up kilometers on the autobahn as we move to the Black Forest again. Junghans is located in Schramberg. Balazs has visited the impressive headquarters, with its stepped architecture. For Mike, the name reminds him of his first business trip to Germany. He marked the occasion by purchasing a manual-winding Max Bill watch. A trip back to Glashütte brings us to another brand we love: Nomos. This relatively young company has always done things its own way. The Bauhaus-like designs are incredibly simple, but equally as pleasing. Once again, we discuss our history with the good folks at this brand.Finally, we end our travels in Pforzheim, one of Germany's most important areas for toolmaking and watchmaking. We talk about Stowa and Laco, two of the original makers of the B-Uhr. Yes, we know the history of these watches can be polarizing, but their legible designs are still relevant today. Both brands have expanded their offerings, but they also produce some interesting heritage-inspired pieces at affordable prices.We hope you enjoy today's episode, and thank you for listening! As always, if you have ideas for future shows, please let us know.

The watch industry is constantly changing, whether through new product launches, shifting ownership structures, or brands reassessing their place in the market. Some developments have implications that go well beyond a single release. They can influence a brand's direction, its identity, and the watches it chooses to make. In this episode of Fratello Talks, Jorg, RJ, and Lex discuss a few recent developments that caught their attention. The conversation starts with news about Ebel following its acquisition by F.P.Journe and Chanel. From there, the trio turns to Zenith, examining its current position and how its proposed restructuring might impact the brand's future. It's an opportunity to look beyond individual watches and consider the wider changes happening across the industry.

Welcome back to another episode of Fratello On Air! This week, we return after more travel and a birthday celebration to discuss the Japanese watch market. While the topic may sound quizzical, the Land of the Rising Sun presents a unique set of challenges and opportunities. We talk about this and more!As watch collectors, many of us visit various online marketplaces when looking for our next purchase. Often, we find the best opportunities in Japan. In fact, the sheer quantity of watches available in the faraway nation boggles the mind. There are also "JDM-only" pieces, which speak to the country's influence on brands at home and in Europe. Whether a collector is visiting the country or shopping from abroad, interesting cultural differences can make the buying experience unique.HandgelenkskontrolleWe kick off our episode on the Japanese watch market with a return to Germany. Balazs explains a recent run-in with the healthcare system that felt like trying to untie a Gordian knot.  We then turn our attention to television and the cornucopia of fantastic recent shows. Mobland, The Gentlemen, Slow Horses, Tulsa King, The Terminal List, and Below are just some of the series we've been enjoying. For the Handgelenkskontrolle, Mike is wearing his vintage Rolex GMT-Master 1675. Balazs has opted for the 2023 Fratello × Nivada Grenchen Racing Chronograph.The Japanese watch marketFor our main topic, we share our experiences of buying and shopping for watches in Japan. We've both traveled there and purchased watches in person. However, we've also dealt with online sellers and marketplaces. For starters, it's important to note that before FOMO became a trend in the West, Japan was the originator of fervor for limited-edition products. Watches are just one example of the excitement Japanese fans feel for special drops. This helps explain why brands often produce Japan-only models or variants. We also mention Sinn and how Japan is, interestingly, one of its most important markets.Regarding vintage watches, we've found that condition on the Japanese watch market is often superlative. This contrasts with the modern market, where watches typically receive a light polish to look new. In either case, though, don't expect much negotiation. In Japan, the price shown is typically the best the dealer can offer. Finally, when shopping online, take seller ratings seriously because there's often no buyer protection. Believe us; we learned this the hard way! For more of our detailed stories about the Japanese watch market, tune in to the rest of the episode.As always, thanks for listening! If you have ideas for future show topics, don't hesitate to share!

Watch fairs offer something online releases and product announcements can't replicate — the chance to see watches in person, handle them, and talk directly to the people behind the brands. For enthusiasts, they can also be a great way to discover independent watchmakers and meet others who share the hobby. In this special on-location episode of Fratello Talks, Nacho and RJ are joined by Daniela Pusch, unit and editorial director of WatchTime. Recorded live at WatchTime Düsseldorf, the conversation explores the role of watch fairs today, how they have evolved, and what makes events like this valuable to both brands and collectors. 

Welcome back to another episode of Fratello On Air! This week, Balazs is alone in the driver's seat while Mike enjoys his much-deserved birthday time off. Join us in wishing a happy (belated) birthday to "Mike Stockton from London, England." Instead, we invited our friend Sébastien Chaulmontet, Sellita’s head of innovation and the man behind the brand Albishorn, for a chat. We will cover a wide range of topics, from vintage to modern and in-house movements.Sébastien and Balazs have been talking about having him on the podcast for a long time. His professional journey in the industry is astonishing. Besides, he is an avid vintage (chronograph) collector. Lastly, the excitingly different brand Albishorn is also his baby. Mike’s absence was the perfect opportunity to invite Sébastien for a casual talk. We split the podcast into three parts — Sellita and AMT, Albishorn, and vintage watches.

James Bond has worn some memorable watches over the years, but what about the people standing in his way? A villain's watch needs to do more than tell the time. It can hint at character, signal status, or offer a subtle clue about the wearer. So, which watches would suit the villains of the Bond universe? In this episode of Fratello Talks, Nacho, RJ, and Jorg turn their attention to the other side of 007's world. They pick watches for Bond villains, considering the characters' personalities and the details that might make a particular watch a good fit. We won't reveal their choices here. You'll have to listen to find out which watches each of them picked and whether the others agree.

Welcome back to another episode of Fratello On Air! This week, we have an open chat about what it might take to turn the vintage Speedmaster market around. Let's face it: it has been quiet for a long time. We'd love nothing more than to see the enthusiasm return and hear your thoughts on what could help. Enjoy the show!Oof, it's been a hot minute since the vintage Speedmaster was all the rage. Then again, we could say that about the vintage market as a whole. But when it comes to our favorite Omega, we long for the halcyon days of hot releases, newly uncovered history, and fan outreach. Still, 2026 is very different from the pre-pandemic period. A lot has changed, so perhaps the old ways of stirring up excitement might not prove as effective. Or would they be seen as even more authentic in today's Speedy world?HandgelenkskontrolleThis week, we have about 35 minutes of watch- and non-watch-related banter before we move on to the main topic. We start with Balazs's recent trip to New York City, where he visited WatchTime New York and Windup. He also took time to do some work while in the Big Apple. We reflect on his trip, some folks he met, and the general vibe. Mike shares a fun anecdote from a recent trip to Amsterdam where he met one of our listeners in the most unlikely of forums. Then, we talk about Balazs's flight back from New York on a Lufthansa A340-600. It turns out that this was the last flight for the old four-engine long-haul plane before its retirement. This was a festive affair! For the Handgelenkskontrolle, Balazs is wearing his favorite travel watch, the Casio G-Shock GW-B5600-2ER. Mike is on topic with his 2018 Speedmaster Professional Speedy Tuesday 2 "Ultraman."The vintage Speedmaster marketIf we measure vintage watch collecting in five-year cycles, anyone who entered the hobby during this period might question if the vintage Speedmaster was ever popular. Indeed, it has been a long time since the seminal chronograph made front-page auction news (for positive reasons). Of course, vintage '60s sports watches have also been in a relative slump during this period, but it seems to hit harder for our beloved Omega because it is the brand's most iconic model. We break down why this has occurred and what it could take for one of our favorite vintage watches to return to the spotlight.Unlike many modern watches, we see the vintage Speedmaster market inextricably linked to the modern models. This is ironic because the modern Speedmaster Professional lineup has never been better. However, is it possible that the grassroots fans miss the days of limited-edition space-inspired releases? We think so, although we have questions about whether the formula would still work at today's Speedmaster price point. Then, we discuss how buying a Speedmaster, for many, was and is like joining a friendly club. Owning a new or old model grants access to this group. We'd love to see Omega step back into more outreach to the fan base with Speedy-related events involving current astronauts. After all, Omega is one of the few large-scale brands that can offer this level of credible engagement. We feel these are just some of the steps the marque could take to reenergize the vintage Speedmaster market while driving even more excitement for the modern pieces. But you'll need to tune in to hear the rest of our thoughts!Thanks for listening to today's episode! If you have thoughts on future topics, please let us know.

For many watch enthusiasts, the Omega Speedmaster Professional Moonwatch is untouchable. But there’s another model that has earned its rightful place in the collection — the Speedmaster Reduced. Smaller, automatic, and often more accessible on the pre-owned market, it offers a different take on one of Omega’s best-known chronographs. In this episode of Fratello Talks, Nacho, RJ, and Gerard look back at the origins of the Speedmaster Reduced and its place in the wider Speedmaster story. They discuss what made it appealing, the quirks and technical issues that prospective owners should know about, and how it compares with the modern Speedmaster 38 and the latest evolution of the smaller Speedmaster. 

Today, in a special episode of Fratello Talks, Nacho and Lex are in Geneva for a chat with independent watch designer and entrepreneur Sylvain Berneron. The conversation kicks off with Berneron’s career in design, his time at major watch companies, and his decision to establish a brand of his own. Berneron’s background is somewhat unusual for an independent watchmaker. Trained in fine arts and industrial design, he began his career at BMW before spending five years with Richemont and another five as chief product officer and board member at Breitling. In September 2022, he decided to leave this comfortable scenario and create the Berneron brand, giving him the creative freedom to explore ideas that would have been difficult to pursue within a large organization.The result was the Mirage, introduced in 2023. From the start, Berneron approached the watch from the movement outward, allowing the unusual asymmetrical caliber to dictate the case's shape. The watch quickly attracted attention for that combination of mechanics, proportions, and design.