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CuGino’s Hunter Moody and Gene Todaro

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Discover Lafayette welcomes Hunter Moody and Gene Todaro, proprietors of CuGino, their beautiful Sicilian restaurant located at 117 South College Road in Lafayette.

This episode is presented in special partnership with Eat Lafayette by Lafayette Travel, celebrating the locally owned restaurants that help define our community and our culture.

CuGino may be relatively new to Lafayette’s restaurant scene, but there are generations of restaurant experience behind it. Hunter Moody grew up in one of Lafayette’s best-known restaurant families, while Gene Todaro brought authentic Sicilian cooking to Acadiana more than four decades ago as one of the founders of Marcello’s.

Their paths are remarkably different, but their philosophies about food, hospitality and the people who work alongside them are very much the same.

Hunter Moody: Raised in the Restaurant Business

For Hunter, the restaurant business was part of life from childhood.

His grandfather, B. I. Moody, was a CPA who became involved in the restaurant industry through the Trotter brothers’ Burger King franchise interest. The Moody family went on to own and operate numerous restaurants and other franchises, including Luther’s Barbecue, Chart House and Outback Steakhouse.

Hunter remembers being included in the business by his father at an unusually young age. “When I was 12 years old, he’d say, ‘Son, get in the car. We’re going talk to Outback Steakhouse in Baton Rouge.’ When I was 15, he’d say, ‘Son, come sit at the kitchen table. Let’s discuss this month’s P&Ls and financial statements.’”

Hunter says academics were highly valued in his large family, but he discovered early that his strengths were elsewhere.

“I was more of a blue-collar kind of person, believe it or not, coming from a very well-off family with a lot of privileges, a lot of opportunities. But I played sports and loved them. I was good with my hands, good with people. From a young age, I wanted to be in the restaurant business.”

At the age of 28, Hunter took over his family’s Sonny’s Barbecue operation in Baton Rouge at a difficult time. The restaurant had experienced two down years following the 2008 financial collapse, and the family was considering closing it.

Hunter saw potential in both the management team and its loyal customer base.

Within a year, he says, sales and profits returned. Over the next decade, the restaurant nearly doubled its sales.

That experience also shaped Hunter’s approach to leadership. As Sonny’s itself began adapting to a changing restaurant industry, Hunter embraced a management philosophy centered on kindness, teamwork and creating a workplace where people could thrive.

“I never minded sweating. I never minded working hard. And that’s why the business worked out well for me early on.”

Gene Todaro: From Palermo to Louisiana

Gene Todaro’s story begins thousands of miles away in Sicily.

Gene grew up in Palermo and was 14 years old when his family came to the United States in 1961. His father had actually been born in Pueblo, Colorado, before returning with his family to Sicily, which meant he was an American citizen. After World War II, with Palermo devastated by bombing, Gene’s father and his brothers began considering leaving Sicily.

A visit to the American consulate changed everything when they learned Gene’s family could obtain American passports. “We came into the country on an American passport because our father was American.”

The family initially settled in New Orleans, where relatives already lived, before Gene’s path eventually brought him to Lafayette.

Gene did not initially plan on spending his career in a restaurant. His academic background was in accounting, and he earned an MBA through Texas A&M while working for Halliburton in Dallas. He also operated a restaurant on the side.

Then his younger brother Marcello, who was attending USL in Lafayette, called. “He says, ‘Gene, there are no good Italian restaurants in Lafayette. I need you to come down here and see what you think and see if you can help me get a restaurant.’”

Gene came to Lafayette, surveyed the local restaurant scene and agreed that the city could use another Italian restaurant. He helped get the business started with every intention of returning to Dallas.

Six or eight months later, his brother called again and asked for help. Gene sold his Dallas restaurant and moved to Lafayette. The rest became part of Lafayette restaurant history.

The Todaro Taste

The Todaro family’s food traditions came directly from Sicily.

Gene remembers shopping for his mother, Rosalie, and learning the ingredients that went into her cooking. He may not have been the one doing the cooking, but he learned what the finished product was supposed to taste like.

Rosalie Todaro

“I knew all the ingredients and what went into different dishes, and I knew what they should taste like. And if something didn’t taste quite like it, we got to start from scratch. Let’s start all over.”

That palate remains one of CuGino’s secret weapons.

Hunter says the restaurant has an exceptional culinary team, but Gene remains closely involved in tasting dishes and working with the chefs. “The trick is Gene’s taste buds,” Hunter says. “Gene especially will say it needs a little bit of this. It needs a little bit of that.”

One example is CuGino’s cacio e pepe, the deceptively simple Roman pasta made with Pecorino Romano, peppercorns and pasta water. Hunter recalls that it took roughly three months after opening to get the dish exactly where they wanted it.

“You got to be able to give them the authentic dishes,” Gene says.

An Unlikely Partnership That Was Years in the Making

Long before Hunter and Gene became partners, Hunter was a customer and admirer of Gene’s restaurants.

After Marcello’s was sold, Hunter remembers wondering why his own family had not pursued the opportunity. His uncle, Frankie Harris, apparently had similar thoughts.

“One day we’ll go get Gene,” Frankie told him.

Years later, Gene walked into 99 Bistro in River Ranch, where Hunter was managing and Gene’s stepdaughter was working as a chef.

Hunter knew exactly who had walked through the door.

He jokes that he immediately put on his best performance, mixing cocktails, running the restaurant and even heading into the kitchen to cook an entrée.

“I think that he saw somebody who cared a lot about what he was doing,” Hunter says.

Gene had not planned to return to the restaurant business after selling his restaurants. But the two began spending time together, eating lunch and talking about the industry.

Photo of Gene Todaro and Hunter Moody at CuGino – by Brad Kemp of The Acadiana Advocate

Hunter realized that beyond their restaurant backgrounds, they shared something more important.

“One of the things, our philosophy and culture are the same. We treat people with kindness and respect…. People don’t work for me. They work with me.” Hunter says they refer to the people around them as team members, staff members and coworkers.

“We found that we had a lot in common,” Gene says.

And CuGino began to take shape.

What Does CuGino Mean?

Even the restaurant’s name reflects the partnership.

“Cugino” is Italian for cousin. But in Sicilian, Hunter explains, the name can also be heard as “cu Gino,” or “with Gino.” In other words, you are dining “with Gene.”

Hunter admits he wasn’t immediately sold on the name. “I didn’t like it at first, but I sure love it now.”

Once Gene explained the Sicilian play on words, Hunter was convinced. “Because you do want to dine with Gene. We have a blast every day and night.”

Creating the CuGino Experience

CuGino occupies the former Tchoup’s Steakhouse location on S. College, and Hunter says the building was in excellent condition when they took it over. Rather than fill the walls with the typical décor associated with American Italian restaurants, the partners took inspiration from the simplicity Hunter noticed while traveling in Sicily and Italy.

“I noticed that their structures are so beautiful. They’re sort of bare. There’s nothing on the walls.”

The resulting restaurant uses Venetian plaster, warm lighting and carefully chosen details rather than covering every wall.

Hunter knew they could deliver excellent food and service. When the atmosphere came together as well, the pieces were in place.

The wine program is another essential part of the CuGino experience. Gene has spent decades developing his knowledge of wine, but CuGino isn’t designed only for serious collectors or people interested in expensive bottles. Guests can browse the restaurant’s wine selection themselves and find choices across a broad range of prices.

“If you only want to spend $40, it’s fine. Go find your $40 bottle of wine,” Gene says.

Hunter puts it another way: whether the bottle costs around $30 or hundreds of dollars, “If we don’t think it’s good, it’s not going to be in our restaurant.”

As Gene says, “Some people are impressed by price and some people are impressed by taste.”

What to Eat at CuGino

The menu brings together Sicilian and Italian traditions, Todaro family recipes and the creativity of CuGino’s culinary team.

Among the appetizers is fried mozzarella made from a quality wheel of cheese that the kitchen cuts down itself rather than purchasing pre-portioned.

“We start from the big wheel, and we cut it down till we get to the little pieces,” Gene explains. “And it’s got a different taste altogether.”

Hunter is particularly enthusiastic about the chicken piccata, with its lemon butter caper sauce and shallots.“You can cut the chicken with a fork. It’s juicy. It’s tender.”

Guests can choose chicken, veal or eggplant, and Gene is especially proud of CuGino’s veal.

“We have probably one of the best veal in town,” he says, explaining that properly preparing veal takes considerable care. Hunter calls the veal Parmesan “textbook what it should taste like.”

There are steaks, fresh fish, arancini and a crab cake made with Louisiana jumbo lump crabmeat that is baked rather than fried. But some of the most meaningful dishes are also among the simplest: spaghetti and meatballs, Bolognese and lasagna based on Todaro family recipes.

“I’m really pleased and proud to serve those dishes,” Hunter says.

Gene also explains that there isn’t one single “Italian cuisine.” Italy’s cooking developed region by region, reflecting centuries of different governments, geography and cultural influences.

Sicily is particularly distinctive because of its location in the Mediterranean and its history of outside influences, including North Africa.

“We have a little taste of everything,” Gene says. “So you got a lot of dishes that have background other than Italy itself.”

“We’re Obsessed With the Guest Experience”

For all the attention given to food and wine, Hunter and Gene repeatedly return to people.

Gene is a mentor and coach to Hunter. Hunter oversees much of the restaurant’s day-to-day management while developing other managers and trusting them to take greater responsibility.

“We’re obsessed with the guest experience,” Hunter says.

That also allows Hunter and Gene to do something they both clearly enjoy: walk through the dining room, talk with guests and have fun.

Their approach extends to the people working alongside them. “We have some good people on board,” Gene says.

Hunter is quick to credit the chefs, managers and other team members who make CuGino work. “It all goes back to the people around us. They’re just so good at what they do. And I’m thrilled to have them.”

Family, Faith and Perspective

The friendship between Hunter and Gene extends well beyond the restaurant.

Hunter and his wife, Marley, have two sons, including a young son and a teenager. Gene has two adult sons, one in Baton Rouge and another in Philadelphia.

Hunter says Gene often reminds him when it is time to leave the restaurant and go home to his family. “Go home to your family, young man,” Gene will tell him.

Hunter says those reminders have helped him keep the important things in perspective. “Your family, your faith, your business. We stick tight with that.”

Gene responds with characteristic humor when Hunter calls it wisdom: “I don’t know if it’s wisdom or experience.” It is probably a little of both.

CuGino is ultimately the coming together of two men from different generations who share a lifetime in the restaurant business, Sicilian roots, an appreciation for excellent food and wine, and a remarkably similar philosophy about how people should be treated.

For Hunter, the opportunity to build an upscale restaurant in his hometown had been a longtime dream. For Gene, who thought he had left the restaurant business behind, CuGino offered an unexpected new chapter.

And on most days, you’ll find both of them there, tasting the food, talking with their team and visiting with guests.

As Hunter says of their partnership, “I think we’re cut from the same cloth.”

CuGino serves lunch Wednesday through Friday and Sunday, with dinner Wednesday through Saturday. The restaurant is closed to the public Monday and Tuesday, although, as Hunter was quick to point out, he and Gene are often still there working.

We thank Hunter Moody and Gene Todaro for joining us on Discover Lafayette and sharing the stories, traditions and friendship behind CuGino.

Special thanks to Eat Lafayette by Lafayette Travel for partnering with Discover Lafayette as we celebrate the locally owned restaurants and people who make Lafayette’s culinary culture so special.

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