Ep. 48 - Horological Heatwave

On episode 56 of the SJX Podcast, SJX speaks with Anthony de Haas, A. Lange & Söhne’s longtime head of product development, about the thinking behind the brand's watches. The starting point is the new Datograph Perpetual, which takes a familiar model in an unexpected direction with a platinum bracelet and discreet diamond indices.The conversation explores the collaborative watchmaking culture in Glashütte and why every new release should bring something different. Mr de Haas also explains how Lange retains the character of a small manufacture within Richemont — an approach that has earned it the reputation of being “the biggest independent”.Other topics include the growing attention paid to finishing, the work required to give movements a recognisable aesthetic, and why collector enthusiasm won’t necessarily translate into more watches or more bracelets.Show notes:00:30: Developing the Datograph Perpetual’s platinum bracelet: construction, finishing, and lessons from the Odysseus07:30: Demand for bracelets, then and now15:55 : The “biggest independent”: preserving Lange’s character within Richemont18:46: Finishing in focus: rising collector expectations and the challenges of production scale32:14: Designing a recognisable movement: balancing technical requirements with visual identity Hosted on Acast. See acast.com/privacy for more information.

A Cartier Cheich selling for US$3.38 million has put quartz back in the conversation, but does the huge result mean much for the broader market? On the latest episode of the SJX Podcast, we discuss the appeal of unusual Cartier shapes and why Patek Philippe’s new Gondolo “Ladies First” makes a practical case for quartz at the high end.Brandon also shares impressions from a visit to Manufacture La Joux-Perret, where solar quartz calibres account for a quarter of annual movement production. Despite the Citizen-owned manufacture’s Japanese technical foundations, these calibres are almost entirely Swiss-made, with more hands-on assembly than one might expect.We also discuss A. Lange & Söhne’s upcoming Singapore exhibition, dedicated to chronographs and classic cars. Show notes:00:25: The record Cartier Cheich result03:10: Patek Philippe Gondolo “Ladies First”06:25: Inside Manufacture La Joux-Perret10:30: Lessons from the American and Swiss watch industries13:55: A. Lange & Söhne’s “Challenging Chronographs” exhibition in Singapore October 18-30th Hosted on Acast. See acast.com/privacy for more information.

On the latest episode of the SJX Podcast, SJX returns from London and Milan with impressions of two very different demonstrations of watchmaking’s biggest names at work. Rolex’s “Four Seasons” Daytona auction broke the record for the biggest charity watch auction in history, raising nearly US$50 million, but a longer run-up could arguably have pushed the result even higher.In Milan, Patek Philippe unveiled the ref. 5978P, pairing an instantaneous perpetual calendar with its manually wound chronograph. The exhibition’s Rare Handcrafts and Italian-market limited editions also offer plenty to debate, from remarkable pocket watches to a Ferrari-red minute repeater.Finally, we discuss highlights from Marteau & Co’s fourth online auction, which runs from October 8-15th.Show notes:00:40: Rolex’s “Four Seasons” auction: bidding momentum, logistics, and a record charity result08:00: Patek Philippe’s Milan exhibition and the instantaneous perpetual calendar chronograph ref. 5978P13:30: Rare Handcrafts favourites: Venice in wood marquetry and Dante in enamel16:20: Milan limited editions: day-and-night World Time Minute Repeaters, colourful Calatravas, and a new Aquanaut19:40: Marteau auction highlights: independent watchmaking across the price spectrum, including unique pieces by Yosuke Sekiguchi and Sylvain Pinaud Hosted on Acast. See acast.com/privacy for more information.

From the Five Time Zone to the Astronomia and Bugatti, Jacob & Co. has evolved considerably over the past 20 years. On the latest episode of the SJX Podcast, SJX speaks with Benjamin Arabov about the family-owned brand’s transformation and the mechanical ingenuity sometimes obscured by its celebrity clientele and gem-set watches.The conversation explores how ideas become watches, why smaller cases have opened the door to new collectors, and what makes partnerships with Bugatti and The Godfather work.We also discuss the origins of the brand’s celebrity following, the continued importance of retail partners, and Benjamin’s approach to building a business that can outlast its founder while preserving his creative ambition.Show notes:00:20: Family ownership and the evolution of Jacob & Co.02:44: Finding a niche in unusual complications04:20: Product development and the push for smaller watches07:15: The evolution of the client base08:20: Partnerships (Bugatti, Godfather, etc.)12:07: The Five Time Zone and the origins of the celebrity following15:03: The next generation, long-term direction, and retail partnerships Hosted on Acast. See acast.com/privacy for more information.

With around 130 people producing just 200 watches per year, Greubel Forsey seems to have returned to its roots and abandoned plans to expand production further. On the latest episode of the SJX Podcast, CEO Michel Nydegger explains why the brand’s approach to watchmaking doesn’t scale and why growth is not a priority.Recorded just after Geneva Watch Days, the conversation covers co-founder Stephen Forsey’s departure from operations, the new Qualité Musée finishing standard, and the challenge of preserving the brand’s distinctive movement architecture in smaller watches.We also discuss the traditional skills behind the Hand Made series, how R&D is pursued without a particular product in mind, and why (but not how) a watchmaker quietly slipped a dozen handmade hairsprings into regular production watches for unbiased real-world testing.Show notes:02:30: Michel's journey into watchmaking06:36: Managing succession of a founder-led brand11:30: The decision to reject expanding the business beyond ~200 pieces/year14:00: The development of the Qualité Musée standard16:25: The role of R&D and technical innovation at Greubel Forsey22:45: Adapting the house style of architectural watchmaking to smaller watches23:45: The Hand Made series, preserving traditional skills, and balancing production30:00: In-house hairspring production32:10: Handling bespoke and custom orders responsibly34:40: Longevity and lessons from two decades of independent watchmaking38:40: The future of ultra high-end watch market and the importance of intrinsic value40:35: Recognition and awards in the watch industry Hosted on Acast. See acast.com/privacy for more information.

Geneva Watch Days just concluded, and by most measures it was the biggest ever. Brands exhibiting topped 70 while visitors were at a record high. The event attracted “an even larger contingent of content creators” according to GWD’s organisers, underscoring the growing fashionability of watches on social media. In total, some 400 watches were debuted at the event - but were they any good? Hosted on Acast. See acast.com/privacy for more information.

Episode 50 of the SJX Podcast rounds up recent reviews, including a review of a new book about Universal Genève chronographs, and the latest updates to long-running platforms from Breguet and Patek Philippe.The discussion also explores the intensifying competitive landscape in high-end watchmaking as big brands like Patek Philippe, Breguet, and A. Lange & Söhne close the gap with many artisanal independent brands in terms of finishing and execution. Show notes:00:30: Universal People Universal Dreams by Luca Mignini03:47: Breguet Classique Tourbillon Sidéral ref. 7255PT10:10: Patek Philippe Calatrava ref. 5227G Hosted on Acast. See acast.com/privacy for more information.

Ahead of Geneva Watch Days, which will feature 71 (mostly independent) brands in 2026, episode 49 of the SJX Podcast looks back at how independent watchmaking became the phenomenon it is today. SJX and Brandon trace its evolution from 1970s pioneers like George Daniels and F.P. Journe through the arrival of Daniel Roth, Philippe Dufour, and Franck Muller. The conversation also examines the avant-garde boom of the 2000s, the renewed emphasis on traditional finishing, and the role of digital photography and social media in transforming what was once a solitary pursuit into a global collector community.Listeners can sign up for the SJX Newsletter by August 12, 2026 for a chance to win a Habring² Chrono-Felix Medicus.Show notes:00:23: Habring² Chrono-Felix Medicus giveaway02:25: Geneva Watch Days 2026 preview and origins04:00: The pioneers of independent watchmaking10:00: The 2000s wave and the influence of the Philippe Dufour Simplicity12:09: Survivorship bias, changing tastes, and returning makers14:03: Post-Covid independents, specialist suppliers, and social media18:43: Predictions for what comes next Hosted on Acast. See acast.com/privacy for more information.

As Swiss watchmakers prepare for their summer holidays, episode 48 of the SJX Podcast rounds up some of the best summer-ready watches released in the first half of 2026, spanning nearly every price category.Show notes:00:40: Kollokium Projekt 2 Variant C01:34: Baltic Heures du Monde02:10: Seiko Prospex Marinemaster HBF00103:40: Seiko 5 Sports HUF Limited Edition04:25: Tudor Black Bay Chrono 39 “Bumblebee”05:56: TAG Heuer Carrera Seafarer07:16: Hermès Cape Cod Titanium09:15: Grand Seiko Spring Drive UFA Ushio 300 Diver10:20: Vacheron Constantin Overseas Dual Time "Cardinal Points"12:15: Laurent Ferrier Sport Traveller14:10: Greubel Forsey Balancier 315:48: Rolex gem-set Daytona quartet Hosted on Acast. See acast.com/privacy for more information.

The return of the Vacheron Constantin Twin Beat Perpetual Calendar got us thinking about other technically interesting watches that showed promise but never truly found their footing.In episode 47 of the SJX Podcast, SJX and Brandon discuss recent releases from Seiko, IWC, and Swatch before turning to candidates for a second chance, including the Audemars Piguet Jules Audemars AP Escapement, the TAG Heuer Monaco V4, and the elusive Breguet Hommage à Nicolas G. Hayek 7887.Show notes:00:30: Seiko Star Time for Shohei Ohtani02:37: IWC ProSet Perpetual Calendar07:35: Swatch x Omega MoonSwatch Mission to the Moon 196912:18: Audemars Piguet Jules Audemars AP Escapement14:10: TAG Heuer Monaco V416:15: TAG Heuer high-frequency chronographs18:15: Louis Vuitton Tambour Twin Chrono and Audemars Piguet Michael Schumacher Laptimer20:23: Breguet Hommage à Nicolas G. Hayek ref. 7887 Hosted on Acast. See acast.com/privacy for more information.