117 | Drew Brodhead: SLCA Coordinator - Anchor Maintenance & Climbing Advocacy

Philip Setter is an insurance broker and software entrepreneur from Canada who's been climbing for over a decade. He is known to quietly solo some of the gnarliest ice the Canadian Rockies has to offer and has an affinity for chossy, runout, dangerous, and psychologically demanding routes. Phil has a tangible passion and enthusiasm to extract the most out of life. Whether its in business, his partnerships, or in climbing he gives everything 100%. Part of life's meaning for Phil is triumphing through adversity and the shenanigans he seems to always find himself in provide the perfect place for him to create the memories and stories that will last a lifetime. But what's the difference between shenanigans worth pushing through and those that become reckless?  What does it mean to build a life that holds space for risk while being responsible to the people who depend on you? Expect to learn about Phil's framework for ice climbing risk assessment, how he tore his A2 pulley and how peptides accelerated his recovery, what it's like selling life insurance to climbers who might not want to admit they're doing something dangerous, why many accomplished climbers have something else in their life besides climbing, how he works on setting boundaries, how we define success & failure, the role vices play in our lives, and much more…#iceclimbing #tradclimbing #mountaineering Thanks to our sponsors!LIVSN DesignsCheckout Their Ecotrek Trail Pants HEREUse Code "TCM15" At Checkout for an extra 15% OFF Your OrderHelp Support The Show & Unlock The Ad-Free PodcastResourcesPurchase Life Insurance For Climbers (Canadians Only):Phil's IGPhil's Youtube

Drew Brodhead is the Staff Advocacy Coordinator and Anchor Maintenance Coordinator for the Salt Lake Climbers Alliance, one of the most respected local climbing organizations in the country. With 18+ years of climbing experience and SPRAT Level 3 certification, Drew leads a professional anchor maintenance program that rebolts routes across the Wasatch Range April through November. This episode explores what it actually means to professionally maintain climbing infrastructure, the ethics of rebolting existing routes, and why Drew believes climbing is a privilege—not a right.We discuss Drew's philosophy that if it's scary, leave it the same; if it's dangerous, change something—a quote from Boone Speed that guides how SLCA approaches rebolting decisions. Drew explains the difference between maintaining safety and preserving the climbing experience, why once bolts are placed they become community property, and how first ascensionists who refuse to allow rebolting create liability when climbers get hurt on deteriorating anchors.We dig into the tension between access and advocacy, including the Logan Canyon rebolting controversy where an individual's well-intentioned work triggered land manager scrutiny because of poor communication with the climbing community. An example of how one mistake can ripple across the entire country.Topics include: SLCA anchor maintenance program structure, SPRAT Level 3 certification, rebolting ethics, Half Dome Northwest Face, Logan Canyon access issues, land manager relationships, Protect America's Rock Climbing Act, nonprofit economics, Bears Ears advocacy, and community stewardship.#Access&AdvocacyCover Photo: @emilytrombly---Thanks to our sponsors!LIVSN DesignsCheckout Their Ecotrek Trail Pants HEREUse Code "TCM15" At Checkout for an extra 15% OFF Your OrderHelp Support The Show & Unlock The Ad-Free PodcastResourcesLearn More About The SLCADonate To The SLCA HEREDrew's IGSLCA's IG

Paul Rogers is an active duty US Army Special Forces (Green Beret) officer who previously served as the commander of the Special Operations Mountain Warfare Training Center (SOMWTC), the specialized schoolhouse responsible for training all military mountaineers for US Special Operations Command (USSOCOM). This episode explores what it actually takes to train elite operators for mountain warfare, why these skills matter in modern combat operations, and the staggering complexity of preparing soldiers to fight enemies in mountainous environments where the terrain itself is trying to kill you. Paul walks through the history of Special Forces mountain warfare dating back to World War II, why unconventional warfare and violent conflict occurs disproportionately in mountains, and how US Special Operations Forces are trained to operate there. We discuss the different levels of mountain operator certification (basic, summer, winter), what the 7-8 week intensive courses actually entail, the 2-to-1 instructor-to-student ratios required for safety, and why many instructors are pursuing IFMGA guide certifications to become legitimate mountain guides. Finally, we dive into Paul's own 2200-foot fall on Wilson Peak's North Face in Telluride, Colorado, where he hit a buried rock while ski mountaineering, tomahawked 400-500 feet, nearly came to a stop, and then was swept over multiple cliff bands by an avalanche of his own slough. He ended up partially buried 2200 feet below with a collapsed lung, broken ribs, broken hands and wrist, a compound fracture with bone sticking out of his knee, and severe internal bleeding from his intestines separating from the mesh holding them in place. His ski partner and fellow Mountain Warfare instructor Bobby executed a technical rescue—solo downclimbing through hazardous terrain to reach Paul, stabilize him, and coordinate helicopter extraction with San Miguel County Search and Rescue. Bobby would later receive the Soldier’s Medal (nation’s highest award for heroism during non-combat operations) for his actions that day.Topics include: Special Operations Mountain Warfare Training Center, Green Beret mountain training, unconventional warfare in mountains, Afghanistan Takur Ghar 2002, foreign internal defense, instructor qualifications, IFMGA guide certification, Dunning-Kruger effect in training, ski mountaineering accidents, Wilson Peak North Face, 2200ft fall survival, avalanche burial, and technical mountain rescue**The views and opinions on this podcast are those of the speakers and do not necessarily represent the views, stances, or policies of any of the entities they may represent.**#military #alpinism #mountaineeringWatch the full episode on Youtube ---Thanks to our sponsors!LIVSN DesignsCheckout Their Ecotrek Trail Pants HEREUse Code "TCM15" At Checkout for an extra 15% OFF Your OrderHelp Support The Show & Unlock The Ad-Free Podcast

Jared Wicks has been a rock climber for over 30 years, he is a former SWAT officer, and one of seven full-time commissioned officers on the Las Vegas Metropolitan Police Department Search and Rescue team. Born and raised in Montana, Jared served in the military and spent his off-duty hours climbing at Red Rock—falling so in love with the area that he moved to Las Vegas in 2006 specifically to combine his passion for climbing with a career in law enforcement. After nearly two decades working patrol, firearms instruction, and SWAT, Jared finally landed his dream position on the SAR, where he now responds to rescues across 8,000 square miles of Clark County—from Red Rock Canyon to Mount Charleston to Lake Mead. This episode explores what it takes to be on one of the most unique full-time SAR teams in the country, how helicopter operations actually work, and what happens when 911 gets called from a climbing route. Jared walks through the structure of LVMPD SAR's four specialty teams (lead climb, mountain rescue, dive recovery, and tactical medical support), the qualifications required to even test for the position, and how 40+ volunteers—including world-class 5.14 climbers and SPRAT Level 3 rope access technicians—support the full-time officers. We discuss the death of his mentor Dave Van Buskirk, who fell during a hoist rescue 13 years ago after saving a stranded hiker, and how that tragedy changed rescue protocols across the entire SAR community. Jared breaks down a recent rescue from this past weekend on Dream Safari, what percentage of climbing rescues are preventable versus pure chaos, and how witnessing accidents over the years has fundamentally changed his own approach to risk and gear placement. If there's one thing Jared wants you to take away from this conversation, it's that LVMPD SAR is funded by tax dollars—rescues are free. Never hesitate to call 911 if you're in trouble. Jared and his team are ready to come get you.Topics include: LVMPD SAR team structure, Red Rock Canyon, helicopter rescue operations, 911 communication protocols, volunteer SAR requirements, Dave Van Buskirk's legacy, preventable versus unpreventable accidents, risks, double rack philosophy, how SAR changes your climbing, and why tax dollars—not rescue fees—fund Las Vegas search and rescue operations.Watch the full episode on Youtube#searchandrescue #climbingaccident #tradclimbing #climbingsafety---Thanks to our sponsors!LIVSN DesignsCheckout Their Ecotrek Trail Pants HEREUse Code "TCM15" At Checkout for an extra 15% OFF Your OrderHelp Support The Show & Unlock The Ad-Free PodcastResourcesLearn More About LVMPD Search and Rescue, Donate, & More!LVMPD' IG

Justin Sackett, an AMGA guide who googled "hardest hike" in college and ended up on a 20,000-foot peak in Ecuador with zero mountaineering experience. That failure lit a fire that led him from complete beginner to professional guide to running his own guide company at 28—all while training single-mindedly for Everest without supplemental oxygen. This episode explores his rapid progression to being an alpine guide, the mentor who gave him the technical foundation most climbers take years to develop, and the Liberty Ridge storm where 60mph winds and inadequate gear taught him lessons about weather forecasts and risk tolerance. We discuss the Rainier ice block incident that made several of his friends quit guiding, why he started his own company instead of working for established services, how he vets guides, and what training for Everest without oxygen actually looks like when you're also running a business. Justin opens up about the genetic lottery of altitude performance, why the West Ridge of Everest represents the ultimate objective in his mind, and how he's preparing mentally for both success and failure.Topics include: becoming a mountain guide, AMGA certifications, Liberty Ridge conditions, guide company management, hiring guides, Everest without oxygen training, altitude acclimatization, post-objective depression, risk tolerance at 8,000 meters, and balancing business ownership with personal climbing goals.Watch the full episode on Youtube#amgaguides #highaltitudeclimbing #mountaineering #alpinism---Thanks to our sponsors!LIVSN DesignsCheckout Their Ecotrek Trail Pants HEREUse Code "TCM15" At Checkout for an extra 15% OFF Your OrderHelp Support The Show & Unlock The Ad-Free PodcastResourcesBook Justin Sackett's Guide ServicesJustin's IG

David Baltz started climbing in 1974 when there were only eight climbers in all of Albuquerque. Over five decades, he's witnessed climbing's transformation from a fringe pursuit requiring pitons and commitment...to a commercialized sport with grid-bolted crags and documentaries glorifying free soloing. This episode explores the clean climbing revolution that defined David's early years, the bolting controversies that followed sport climbing's arrival in New Mexico, and what gets lost when safety becomes the priority over experience. We discuss finding partners in an era before Facebook groups, the ethics of retrobolting established trad lines, Alex Honnold's impact on climbing culture, and how David approaches climbing now. Topics include: clean climbing history, New Mexico first ascents, bolting ethics, trad climbing at 69, helmet debates, commercialization of outdoor sports, Free Solo culture, risk versus safety, aging climbers, psychological climbing, sport climbing evolution, and maintaining old school values in modern climbing.Watch the full episode on Youtube#livinglegend #oldschoolclimber---Thanks to our sponsors!LIVSN DesignsCheckout Their Highland Sweater HereUse Code "TCM15" At Checkout for an extra 15% OFF Your OrderHelp Support The Show & Unlock The Ad-Free PodcastResourcesDavid's Mountain Project Profile

Jason met a new climbing partner through a Facebook group, vetted him over a few conversations, and went to Eldorado Canyon for their first route together. Twenty feet up the Yellow Spur, his partner fell onto a ledge—rope behind the leg, face-first impact... broken wrist and severe facial trauma. This episode walks through the accident sequence, the rescue, and what Jason feels went wrong. Despite multiple outreaches, his injured partner stopped communicating with him after the accident and has left Jason to process and reflect on the accident alone. He reflects on partner vetting, extending gear on traverses, communication during high-consequence terrain, attentive belaying, and processing the guilt of an accident where someone gets badly hurt and disappears. In this conversation we cover topics such as: finding partners online, multi-pitch trad climbing, ledge fall dynamics, first aid response, and helmet effectiveness.Watch the full episode on Youtube#ClimbingAccident #TradClimbing---Thanks to our sponsors!LIVSN DesignsCheckout their Highland Sweater HereUse Code "TCM15" At Checkout for an extra 15% OFF Your OrderHelp Support The Show & Unlock The Ad-Free Podcast---

After being literally run over by a school bus in Atlanta, climber Taylor Martin rebuilt her life through big mountain pursuits and solo aid climbing. This episode dives deep into Taylor's five new Yosemite first ascents established in a single season, including several big and technical aid routes in Yosemite. We explore her 70-hour Hardrock 100 ski traverse with only one hour of sleep, advanced aid climbing techniques like back-looping and daisy soloing, and the psychological toll of spending days alone on big walls. Taylor opens up about navigating trans identity in competitive climbing and record-keeping, the traumatic recovery from devastating injuries, and why partnerships rank above performance despite climbing mostly solo. Topics include: A3/A4 aid climbing, traumatic brain injury recovery, solo endurance objectives, new route development in Yosemite, mental challenges of solitary big wall pushes, modern speed climbing ethics, and finding meaning beyond grades in mountain sports.Watch the full episode on Youtube#routedevelopment #aidclimbing #firstascents #trauma #bigwallclimbing---Thanks to our sponsors!LIVSN DesignsCheckout their Ecotrek Trail Pants HereUse Code "TCM15" At Checkout for an extra 15% OFF Your OrderGet Access to Exclusive Episodes, Unlock Ad-Free Podcast, & MORE!---ResourcesTaylor's IGYoutube Video of HummingbirdMust Watch Video on Taylor's History

22-year-old Zion crusher Connor Baty on first ascents, rope soloing the Triple Wall in 12 hours, and why he climbs without sponsors. Kora FA, Towers of the Virgin, and living the unsponsored dream.Today's guest is 22-year-old silent crusher from Zion, Connor Baty. Connor has been climbing since he was 8 years old, with key early development as a trad climber at Garden of the Gods in Colorado—a notoriously chossy area with soft, loose sandstone. Since then he quickly progressed through the grades, leveling out around the 5.13 range. He then took that knowledge and merged it with his true passion: adventure. Connor has been quietly building a reputation as a cutting-edge first ascensionist and endurance linkup climber. Connor was the partner to our previous guest James Barrow for the Complete Tower of the Virgin Traverse. They also established a new 5.12+ multipitch route in Zion, called Kora. Connor has climbed Time Wave Zero down in Potrero car to car in 5 hours and most recently he’s claimed the rope solo speed record of the Zion Triple Wall—linking Touchstone, Moonlight Buttress, and Prodigal Son in a blistering 12 hours. Needless to say Connor is a crusher.He could easily seek out sponsorships at the level he is climbing. But as we learn in our conversation, Connor has zero interest in self-promotion. For him it's all about personal progress, adventure, and living the life he has now to the fullest. He even has groundbreaking pursuits outside of climbing and is currently attempting to navigate the Colorado River from source to sea. What I found most interesting about our conversation is how well-spoken, composed, and level-headed Connor is as a human and a climber. Back when I was 22 I could not say the same thing about myself. I really felt the stoke and energy from Connor in our conversation and I'm happy to be sharing it with you now.Watch the full episode on Youtube#firstascents #bigwallclimbing #routedevelopment #aidclimbing #speedclimbing---Thanks to our sponsors!LIVSN DesignsCheckout their Ecotrek Trail Pants HereUse Code "TCM15" At Checkout for an extra 15% OFF Your OrderHot Chillys Performance Base LayersCheckout their Micro Elite Chamois Base Layer Systems HereUse Code "TCM15" At Checkout for 15% OFF Your OrderGet Access to Exclusive Episodes, Unlock Ad-Free Podcast, & MORE!---ResourcesConor's IG

Vitaliy is one of the most prolific and respected alpinists of his generation and has a reputation as a master of long, complex alpine objectives—including becoming the first person to complete The Goliath Traverse in the Eastern Sierra…which might be the longest ridge traverse in the western hemisphere…if not the world.. He's established more first ascents in the Eastern Sierra than any other person, authored a three-volume guidebook series to the Eastern Sierra, and spent years developing new routes around the world. He's summited all the peaks in the Fitz Skyline and only has one summit left to complete the Torre Skyline: the infamous Cerro Torre. Even with such an astounding list of achievements, Vitaliy's deep sense of empathy, humility, and curiosity keep him grounded, thoughtful, and heartfelt.Sean McLane is an American climber and alpinist with a knack for hard ice climbing. He blends curiosity, adventure, and a commitment to exploring terrain that few others pursue. One of his life goals is to complete Guy Lacelle's Favorite 135 Ice Climbs—a notorious list of iconic, hard, and bold routes. Sean has currently completed 71 of the 135 and soloed 61 of them. That's an insane amount of soloing on hard ice routes. Along with several other first ascents, Sean recently put up The Penitent Path, a 12-pitch M9 considered one of the longest routes at the grade in the U.S. Beyond his technical prowess, Sean is a deeply thoughtful and introspective human—and this is his first time ever sharing his story.We start with Sean's background and how he was introduced to climbing while living abroad in China. We then explore a deeply personal and traumatic story from Sean's past involving a tragic ice climbing accident that took the life of Meg O'Neill and left Sean with a broken back. We use this story to expand on grief and loss, and learn how Sean processed these deep emotions and reintroduced climbing into his life. We then pivot to Vitaliy's background—a wildly unique story checkered with unbelievable suffering, uncertainty, and struggle, but also resilience, empathy, grit, and growth. Next, we dive into Vitaliy and Sean's recent climbing trip to India—an adventure that tested their commitment, focus, determination, and humility. We then contrast their India trip with a wildly successful and spontaneous trip to Patagonia. Finally, we close by diving into deeper topics around work-life balance, the sacrifices we make for success, unmitigatable risk justification, the concepts of faith, luck and self-reliance, and mastery versus complacency.Watch The Climbing Majority on Youtube#alpinism #mountaineering #firstascents #routedevelopment #partnerships #iceclimbing---Thanks to our sponsors!LIVSN DesignsCheckout their Ecotrek Trail Pants HEREUse Code "TCM15" At Checkout for an extra 15% OFF Your OrderHot Chillys Performance Base LayersCheckout their Micro Elite Chamois Base Layer Systems HEREUse Code "TCM15" At Checkout for 15% OFF Your OrderGet Access to Exclusive Episodes, Unlock Ad-Free Podcast, & MORE!ResourcesThe Shooting Star ScholarshipGuy Lacelle's 135 Ice ClimbsVitaliy's IGSeans's IG