Sanin Ginjo - Sake from the Shadows

Join us for a very special episode of Sake Deep Dive, as it marks several firsts for our duo: the first ever return to a previously covered topic, and the first ever special guest. Julian Houseman is a sake educator and writer, as well as running his own sake bar in Osaka. The three go back to reflect on how attitudes toward futsūshu may have changed (or not!) in the five years since they tackled it in the very first episode. Is it still the same overlooked, undervalued segment of the sake market? Is it still packed with undiscovered gems? Listen and find out. And it is also important to remember that for every first, there is a last. This marks the final episode for Jim as his career takes him in new directions. But lament not! Andy and Julian are ready to keep the sake warm and the torch lit.Kampai!Vocab:Kyūbetsu seidō 級別制度 - An older classification system for sake based on various subjective factors that was replaced with the tokutei meishōshu system.Sanzōshu 三増酒 - “Tripled” sake made by adding large amounts of distilled alcohol and flavoring additives to triple the amount of sake made from the same amount of rice. Abolished in the 1990s, but some level of heavy additive use remains in the cheapest levels of futsūshu.Tokutei meishōshu 特定名称酒 - The current system for classifying sake by rice grading, polishing, alcohol content etc.Yodanjikomi 四段仕込み - A four-stage mash, when an additional stage is added for either necessity as in aruten alcohol addition, or for a different expression of the sake.Recommendations:Andy - Tsuru no Tomo Jōhaku　Jim - Gokyō Jōsen Julian - Nihonjō JōsenDon’t forget to support us on Patreon at https://www.patreon.com/SakeDeepDive Also, check out Andy’s websites at: https://www.originsake.com/ and https://www.originsaketours.comFind Jim at his website www.JimRion.com, where he mostly doesn’t talk about sake at all.Our theme music is from Lotus Lane by The Loyalist - Preconceived Notions Available at https://soundcloud.com/preconceived-notionsUnder a  Creative Commons — Attribution 3.0 Unported— CC BY 3.0Free Download / Stream: https://bit.ly/lotus-laneMusic promoted by Audio Library https://youtu.be/1YVHRMVwwHg 

Ginjo sake brewing is familiar enough, but what about those folks out on the Sanin coast? Some claim they’re doing it a little differently, but Jim and Andy aren’t so sure. Is it the koji? The yeast? The climate? Come and let’s see what’s going on in the shadows. Kampai!Vocab:Ajigin 味吟 - A flavor-focused ginjo sake.Chūgoku 中国 - A region of western Japan including Hiroshima, Okayama, Tottori, Shimane, and Yamaguchi prefectures.Hanagin はな吟 - An aroma-focused ginjo sake.San’in 山陰 - The part of the Chugoku region that stands to the north/west of the Chugoku Mountains along the Sea of Japan coast. Mostly associated with Tottori and Shimane Prefectures.Sanyō 山陽 - The coastal area of the CHugoku Region along the Sea of Japan, south/east of the Chugoku mountains.Sōhaze 総はぜ - A koji growth pattern with the filaments covering the whole surface of the rice grains.Tsukihaze 突きはぜ - A koji growth pattern with filaments speckling the surface, with filaments sticking deep inside the rice grain.Recommendations:Andy - Tenon Mukkyu SakeJim - Chiyomusubi Goriki 60 Junmai GinjoDon’t forget to support us on Patreon at https://www.patreon.com/SakeDeepDive Also, check out Andy’s websites at: https://www.originsake.com/ and https://www.originsaketours.comFind Jim at his website www.JimRion.com, where he doesn’t talk about sake at all.Our theme music is from Lotus Lane by The Loyalist - Preconceived Notions Available at https://soundcloud.com/preconceived-notionsUnder a  Creative Commons — Attribution 3.0 Unported— CC BY 3.0Free Download / Stream: https://bit.ly/lotus-laneMusic promoted by Audio Library https://youtu.be/1YVHRMVwwHg 

Three steps? Four steps? More?! Building a stable sake mash can be a tricky business, and here Andy and Jim dig deep into a tried and true way of making sure your fermentation is a strong one. From history to stages, variations to value, they give dankake the good ol’ Sake Deep Dive Treatment.Kampai!Vocab:Dankake 段掛け or Danjikomi 段仕込み - Staged mashing. A standard feature of multiple-parallel fermentation sake brewing, in which rice and koji are added in batches to allow for more stable growth of the yeast.Eda oke 枝桶 - a technique where the smaller Hatsuzoe batch of rice and koji is mixed with the starter in a smaller tank, allowing for more controlled yeast propagation during the vulnerable early stages.Goshu no Nikki 御酒之日記 - A record/journal that is considered the first technical brewing guide in Japan, kept by members of the Satake clan. Its date is contested but it is mostly considered to date to 1489, though some believe it was written in 1355. It mentions sandanjikomi, important to this discussion.Hatsuzoe 初添え - The first stage of a mash or shikomi, when steamed rice and koji are added to the moto starter.Ittonjikomi 一トン仕込み - A one-tonne (of rice) mash for sake brewing. Often considered a kind of standard measure for small to medium sake breweries.Nakazoe 仲添え - The second addition of rice and koji to the fermentation mash.Odori 踊り - A stage of rest between hatsuzoe and nakazoe.Sandanjikomi 三段仕込み - A three-stage mash/Tamonin Nikki 多聞院日記- A journal/record kept at Tamoin temple from 1478 to 1618. It mentions several topics of interest to sake brewing, including a reference to dankake in connection to Bodaisen sake brewing.Togaimai 等外米 - Rice that has not been graded for the official classification system, meaning it cannot be used for tokuteimeishu brewing.Tomezoe 留添え - The final stage of a dankake, when fermentation is encouraged to stop.Yodanjikomi 四段仕込み - A four-stage mash, when an additional stage is added for either necessity as in aruten alcohol addition, or for a different expression of the sake.Recommendations:Andy - Hanatomoe Yodan Muroka NamaJim - Yachiyo Bd-14Don’t forget to support us on Patreon at https://www.patreon.com/SakeDeepDive Also, check out Andy’s websites at: https://www.originsake.com/ and https://www.originsaketours.comFind Jim at his website www.JimRion.com, where he mostly doesn’t talk about sake at all.Our theme music is from Lotus Lane by The Loyalist - Preconceived Notions Available at https://soundcloud.com/preconceived-notionsUnder a  Creative Commons — Attribution 3.0 Unported— CC BY 3.0Free Download / Stream: https://bit.ly/lotus-laneMusic promoted by Audio Library https://youtu.be/1YVHRMVwwHg 

Jim and Andy journey back to the snow country of Niigata to focus on a brewery that has helped shape modern sake tastes: Ishimoto Shuzo, makers of Koshi no Kanbai. From its humble origins as a small producer for the local market to the flagbearers of the jizake and tanrei karakuchi sake booms, your intrepid enthusiasts dig deep into how this sake became a nationwide staple. Settle in and warm up your sake because it’s time for some Niigata nectar. Kampai!Vocab:Ajigin　味吟 - Sake brewed to ginjō specifications and methods but with an emphasis on flavor rather than aroma.Hanagin　ハナ吟 - Sake brewed to ginjō specifications and methods with an emphasis on aroma rather than flavor.Hashirajōchu　柱焼酎  - Shōchu distilled from refermented sake lees or even seishu used in the brewing process instead of high-purity brewer’s alcohol. A traditional aruten method dating back to the Edo Period.Recommendations:Andy - Tokujoshu Kimoto-kei Hashirajochu ShikomiJim - Futsushu White LabelDon’t forget to support us on Patreon at https://www.patreon.com/SakeDeepDive Also, check out Andy’s websites at: https://www.originsake.com/ and https://www.originsaketours.comFind Jim at his website www.JimRion.com, where he mostly doesn’t talk about sake at all.Our theme music is from Lotus Lane by The Loyalist - Preconceived Notions Available at https://soundcloud.com/preconceived-notionsUnder a  Creative Commons — Attribution 3.0 Unported— CC BY 3.0Free Download / Stream: https://bit.ly/lotus-laneMusic promoted by Audio Library https://youtu.be/1YVHRMVwwHg 

Andy and Jim dig into the past of Itami, an influential sake brewing area in Hyogo prefecture that found itself replaced by Nada. What innovations did Itami offer up, and why did it get left in the shadows of sake history? Come listen as your hosts brush the cobwebs off a nearly-lost sake brewing center that just might be the birthplace of seishu. Kanpai!Vocab for this episodeNamizake 並酒　- An early word for sake brewed with unpolished rice in both kōji and kakemai.Morohaku 諸白　- Sake brewed with polished rice both for kōji and kakemaiKatahaku 片白　- Sake brewed with polished rice for kakemai and unpolished rice in the kōji.Genroku Period 元禄時代　- A historical period, 1688-1705, when Itami was at its sake brewing peak. Kamigata 上方 - An Edo period term for the region around Kyoto, where the imperial court remained.Hashirashōchu 柱焼酎 - The use of kasutori shōchu, distilled from refermented sake kasu, as an additive to sake for a variety of purposes.Recommendations:Andy ＆Jim both - Choutokusen Shirayuki Edo Genroku no SakeDon’t forget to support us on Patreon at https://www.patreon.com/SakeDeepDive Also, check out Andy’s websites at: https://www.originsake.com/ and https://www.originsaketours.comFind Jim at his website www.JimRion.com, where he mostly doesn’t talk about sake at all.Our theme music is from Lotus Lane by The Loyalist - Preconceived Notions Available at https://soundcloud.com/preconceived-notionsUnder a  Creative Commons — Attribution 3.0 Unported— CC BY 3.0Free Download / Stream: https://bit.ly/lotus-laneMusic promoted by Audio Library https://youtu.be/1YVHRMVwwHg 

This time, Andy and Jim take another regional dive and head to snow country: Niigata. With more sake breweries than any other prefecture, its once-hidden brands like Koshi no Kanbai and Hakkaisan are now nearly universally known to sake fans. How did this out-of-the-way region become the source of so much sought-after sake? Two words: Jizake Boom. Listen in and get some history of how Niigata sake and changes in the late-20th century sake market go hand in hand. Kanpai!Vocab for this episodeHōrō 琺瑯 - Enamel coating on metal, in this case fermentation and storage tanks.Kasubuai 粕歩合- The ratio of rice solids left after sake fermentation, expressed as a percentage of the initial weight of rice used. Sake no Jin 酒の陣 - A famed Niigata sake festival held in March.Tanrei Karakuchi 淡麗辛口 - Usually translated something like “light and dry,” this is a style of sake popularized by Niigata breweries in the latter half of the 20th century. It was lighter and drier than previously popular sake styles, and shared some characteristics of what we now call ginjō-style brewing, i.e. low and slow fermentation.Recommendations:Andy - Secchubai Honjōzō Jim - Koshi no Kanbai White Label Jōsen Don’t forget to support us on Patreon at https://www.patreon.com/SakeDeepDive Also, check out Andy’s websites at: https://www.originsake.com/ and https://www.originsaketours.comFind Jim at his website www.JimRion.com, where he mostly doesn’t talk about sake at all.Our theme music is from Lotus Lane by The Loyalist - Preconceived Notions Available at https://soundcloud.com/preconceived-notionsUnder a  Creative Commons — Attribution 3.0 Unported— CC BY 3.0Free Download / Stream: https://bit.ly/lotus-laneMusic promoted by Audio Library https://youtu.be/1YVHRMVwwHg

As the New Year brings a sake drinking season to us all, Andy and Jim take a moment to think about the people who make it and the system that keeps the brewery pumping. From toji to kurabito, the roles in a sake brewery all play an important part in keeping our tokkuri filled. Listen in for the inside story. Kanpai!Vocab for this episodeKanzukuri 寒造り - The system of sake brewing during the cold seasons imposed by government edict in the Edo period.Kashira 頭 - Literally “head,” the second highest rank in a traditional organization, such as a sake brewery.Kōhai 後輩 - A relative rank referring to any member of a group junior to the speaker.Kurabito 蔵人 - The general term for the workers in a sake brewery without specific title. Ranked sometimes into Jō (upper) Chuu (middle) and Shita (lower) levels.Motoya 酛屋 - The person in charge of making the moto fermentation starter.Muroya　室屋 - The person in charge of making kōji in the kōjimuro.Oya or Oyabun 親・親分 - Literally “parent/father,” used as a term of address for people high up in a traditional organization, like a sake brewery.Sanyaku 三役 - The three major ranks/roles of a traditional organization, most commonly used these days in reference to the Sumo ranks of Ozeki, Sekiwaki, and Komusubi. In sake brewing, these are the Kashira, Muroya, and Motoya.Sendō 船頭 - The person in charge of pressing (traditionally a fune press). Senpai 先輩 - A relative rank referring to any member of a group senior to the speaker.Shain 社員 - The general word for a full time, permanent employee of a company. Replacing the traditional brewery structure of the tōji system.Sōtōji 総杜氏 - Overall tōji. In sake companies with more than one brewery, and so more than one tōji, the top of them all who coordinates all the sake production.Recommendations:Andy - Ozasaya Taketsuru Kimoto Junmai GenshuJim - Kenbishi Kuromatsu Don’t forget to support us on Patreon at https://www.patreon.com/SakeDeepDive Also, check out Andy’s websites at: https://www.originsake.com/ and https://www.originsaketours.comAnd buy Jim’s book, Discovering Yamaguchi Sake wherever you order your books (print and ebook available)!Our theme music is from Lotus Lane by The Loyalist - Preconceived Notions Available at https://soundcloud.com/preconceived-notionsUnder a  Creative Commons — Attribution 3.0 Unported— CC BY 3.0Free Download / Stream: https://bit.ly/lotus-laneMusic promoted by Audio Library https://youtu.be/1YVHRMVwwHg

In an amazing oversight, Andy and Jim realize they’ve never dug into the history of namazake and its path toward becoming a mainstay of the modern sake market. What was the first commercially available namazake? When did it hit shelves? And most importantly, is it really only drinkable fresh? Listen in for fresh, unheated sake talk, and kampai!Vocab for this episodeNamachozo 生貯蔵 - Stored unpasteurized/heat treated, then pasteurized on bottling.Namazume 生詰め - Pasteurized before storing, then bottled without another pasteurization.Namanama　生生 - Sake that has not undergone any pasteurization (usually just nama)Jukusei 熟成 - Matured or aged.Namajuku 生熟 - Aged namazakeRecommendations:Andy - Daijiro Kimoto Junmai NamazakeJim - Kikusui Jukusei FunaguchiDon’t forget to support us on Patreon at https://www.patreon.com/SakeDeepDive Also, check out Andy’s websites at: https://www.originsake.com/ and https://www.originsaketours.comAnd buy Jim’s book, Discovering Yamaguchi Sake wherever you order your books (print and ebook available)!Our theme music is from Lotus Lane by The Loyalist - Preconceived Notions Available at https://soundcloud.com/preconceived-notionsUnder a  Creative Commons — Attribution 3.0 Unported— CC BY 3.0Free Download / Stream: https://bit.ly/lotus-laneMusic promoted by Audio Library https://youtu.be/1YVHRMVwwHg 

Summer has passed here in Japan, bringing cool evenings perfect for a nice warm tokkuri full of kanzake. You might not be surprised to hear that your hosts both agree that the sake inside should be hiyaoroshi, the sake of autumn. It’s a topic that Andy and Jim have mentioned time and again, but this time they dive deep into the best of all seasonal sake. What does that name mean? Why is it such a special class of sake? And what’s the difference from akiagari, really? Listen close and all your questions will be answered. Kanpai!Vocab for this episodeHiya 冷、ひや - Cool in temperatureOroshi　卸、おろし - To bring down, to package, to ship out or sell wholesaleAki 秋 - AutumnNamachozo 生貯蔵 - Stored unpasteurized/heat treated, then pasteurized on bottling.Namazume 生詰め - Pasteurized before storing, then bottled without another pasteurization.Recommendations:Andy - Minami Tokubetsu Junmai HiyaoroshiJim - Moriko Junmai HiyaoroshiDon’t forget to support us on Patreon at https://www.patreon.com/SakeDeepDive Also, check out Andy’s websites at: https://www.originsake.com/ and https://www.originsaketours.comAnd buy Jim’s book, Discovering Yamaguchi Sake wherever you order your books (print and ebook available)!Our theme music is from Lotus Lane by The Loyalist - Preconceived Notions Available at https://soundcloud.com/preconceived-notionsUnder a  Creative Commons — Attribution 3.0 Unported— CC BY 3.0Free Download / Stream: https://bit.ly/lotus-laneMusic promoted by Audio Library https://youtu.be/1YVHRMVwwHg 

Andy and Jim take a break from the beverage itself to talk about one of the most recognizable symbols of sake there is: the sugidama, also known as a sakabayashi… Or IS IT?! Come and listen as your hosts trim away the excess to expose the sphere of truth behind this enduring icon, including the location of Japan’s biggest example. Hint: It’s practically in Jim’s backyard.So fill those tokkuri up and settle in for some sake culture on this International Sake Day edition of Sake Deep Dive.Vocab for this episodeSugi 杉 - Cryptomeria japonica. An evergreen in the cypress family, this tree is native to Japan and its wood has been an essential part of sake brewing for centuries. Not synonymous with “cedar” but sometimes called “Japanese dwarf cedar” which is odd because the trees can grow to like, 70 feet high…Sakabayashi 杉林 - A “sugi forest.” The name for a traditional Shinto item made of a roughly tied bundle of sugi branches. Not a ball, so not a sugidama.Sugidama 杉玉 - A spherical bundle of sugi branches hung at nearly every sake brewery in Japan. It has become a symbol with many meanings, all of them good.Recommendations:No sake recommendations, but do come to Japan and see the sugidama!Don’t forget to support us on Patreon at https://www.patreon.com/SakeDeepDive Also, check out Andy’s website at: https://www.originsake.com/ And buy Jim’s book, Discovering Yamaguchi Sake wherever you order your books (print and ebook available)!Our theme music is from Lotus Lane by The Loyalist - Preconceived Notions Available at https://soundcloud.com/preconceived-notionsUnder a  Creative Commons — Attribution 3.0 Unported— CC BY 3.0Free Download / Stream: https://bit.ly/lotus-laneMusic promoted by Audio Library https://youtu.be/1YVHRMVwwHg