179. THE ALLOY STUDIO ~ A Perfume with a 'Trashy Perfume' Accord?!

The Alloy Studio is an experimental, Black, queer-owned fragrance brand blending glamour with grit. Created by romantic and business partners Bryson Ammons (the perfumer) and Eddie Hodges (the creative director), their fragrances dare and delight with notes like pineapple popsicle, sativa, and 'trashy perfume.' This week, we get the inside scoop on the brand's silver/gold aesthetic, Bryson’s independent but community-rooted path to perfumery, and some ACTUAL piping-hot takes. WATCH THE FULL VID EP LATER THIS WEEK ONLY ON SUBSTACK!FOLLOW: @thealloystudio @brysonammons @by.exhSHOP: stele.shopSOTD: Phlur Vanilla NectarFRAGS MENTIONED:Phlur Vanilla Nectar*, Comptoir Sud Pacifique: Vanille Banane*, Vanille Abricot; Profumum Roma Dulcis in Fundo, The Alloy Studio: Idyllic, Silver Haze, Kinesis; Perry Ellis Bold Red, Glossier You, Aesop Rozu, Maison Crivelli Ambre Chromatique, Frederic Malle Acne Studios, Versace Blue, The Alloy Studio Hypnotic Nectar, Boy Smells, Davidoff Cool Water, Baccarat, Santal 33, Bod Man, Perry Ellis 360 Black, Versace The Dreamer, The Alloy Studio: Hypnotic Nectar, Kinesis; Aesop Gloam, Rozu (* = gifted in PR)Article mentioned: The Sweet Smell of Diversity

A lot can happen in a year. Since opening its Williamsburg doors last summer, Stéle has added a second location, dropped 100(!) fragrances in a single day, and moonlights as Nolita's hottest millennial nightclub (stay tuned for pt. 2: the Pacha-to-Stéle Fri night pipeline).Despite the (well-deserved) buzz, founders Jake Levy and Matt Belanger remain steadfast in their commitment to artisanal, small-batch, offbeat scents.So how did they do it? What makes a Stéle scent? What were the roses and thorns on the way to the top? And most importantly, what's next? All ahead in this week's ep!PLUS: A CAN’T-MISS, JUICY ANNOUNCEMENT THAT HAS BEEN A REALLY HARD SECRET TO KEEP!!! (more details coming later this week!!!)FOLLOW: stelenewyorkSHOP: stele.shopFULL VIDEO EPISODE: live on Substack this FridaySMELL CLUB TIX: aromaticherbssmellclub.eventbrite.comFRAGS MENTIONED: Atelier Materi Cedre Figalia*, Carl Kling Fig Nuit, Naomi Goodsir Iris Cendre, Clue Perfumery Dandelion Butter, January Scent Project, Clue Perfumery, Oddity, Perfumer H Dandelion, Maison d'Etto, Raconteur, Ormaie, Stora Skuggan, Le PERE par Blaise Mautin, Le Labo Santal 33, Britney Spears, The Raconteur: No Tell Motel, Daintree Rain Tea, Cloud 9 Juice, Killr Vanillr; Arquiste Grove by the Sea, Circle of Lim Lost Generation, Toskovat Inexcusable Evil, Sylhouette Molotov Cocktail, Arquiste Tropical, Tada Paradiso, Pigmentarium: Murmur, Erotikon, Paradiso;  Wolf Brothers Wolf, Andrea Maack Muse, Clue Perfumery Dandelion Butter* = gifted in PR

My perfume hot takes, a catch-up with Principal Perfumer Sabine de Tscharner about her newest creation for Laundry Sauce, Mojave Peach, and your hotline Qs answered, ALL IN ONE EP!Thank you to our sponsor Laundry Sauce!Use code perfumeroom15 to get 15% off any Laundry Sauce order! (valid through Aug 9, 2025)FRAGS MENTIONED:Amouage Existence*, L’Artisan Passage D’Enfer, CdG Incense Zagorsk, Kyoto; Frederic Malle Portrait of a Lady, Mojave Peach, Guerlain Mitsouko, Florstalgia Iris*, Guerlain Vol de Nuit, Chanel No. 19, DS&D IDK What, Aesop: Hwyl, Tacit; MAISON d'ETTO Macanudo, Escentric Molecules Molecule 01, Perfumer H: Leather, Moss, Musk; Arquiste Tropical, Voyages Imaginaires Le Grand Jeu, Ourside Nostalgia, Sana Jardin Berber Blonde, Fulton & Roark Thousand Palms, Carolina Herrera, Good Girl, Mizensir Tres There, Ambre Magique, Carthusia Terra Mia, Thameen Peregrina, Marissa Zappas Annabel’s Birthday Cake

A film about one man's obsessive quest to track down an orris perfume—starring Tim Heidecker, Marta Pozzan, Julia Fox, Kevin Kline, Fisher Stevens, and Gina Gershon (!!)—premieres next week at Tribeca.This week, I sit down with the visionary behind it all: filmmaker Charlotte "Charlie" Ercoli.Charlie is no newcomer to the world of perfume. She comes from a family of perfumers, and her earliest directing gigs were all perfume ads! This episode is a full-sensory treat and ends with us literally smelling a brick of orris. Enjoy.FIOR DI LATTE TIX: https://tribecafilm.com/films/fior-di-latte-2025FOLLOW: @fiordilattefilm @charlotte.ercoliFRAGS MENTIONED: Arquiste Tropical (SOTD), Tom Ford Champaca Absolute, Superfume, Regime des Fleurs, DS&D Bistro Waters, Chloe EDP, biche, D&G Fefe, Memoire Liquide, Spezierie Palazza Vecchio

Two perfumeheads walk into a bar and... Liz Renstrom—Perfume Room regular, photographer of our generation, and the genius behind @basenote_bitch (the ultimate fragrance nostalgia account)—dropped by my apartment last week with some shiny new gems in her collection and then naturally, raided my (newly organized!) perfume wardrobe. Be a fly on the wall for our chaotic good nez-à-nez.FOLLOW: @basenote_bitch @elizabethrenstromFRAGS MENTIONED:Oriza L. Legrand: Relique D’Amour, Reve D’Ossian; Serge Lutens Santal Majascule, Xinu Copala, Diptyque Benjoin Boheme, Aedes Copal Azur, Xinu: FlordeMusgo (hand cream), Monstera; Costa Brazil Kaya Jungle Firming Oil, SOMA Ayurvedic Jasmine Oil, Olo Dark Wave, Atelier des Ors Lune Feline, Commodity Orris, Thom Browne Vetyver & Brut, Society de la Rossi (wine), L'Entropiste Jodhpur 6AM, Officine Universelle Buly Patate Douce des Caraïbes et Carotte d’Afghanistan, Granado Violeta, The Perfumer's Story Sequoia Wood, Le Pere, Lancome LVEB L’Elixir, St. Rose Juliet in White, Le Pere, Jovoy Psychedelique, Profumum Patchouly, Oriza L. Legrand Horizon, Mad et Len: Graphite, Humus; Perfumer H: Ink, Moss; Tsu Lange Yor Sala, L'Entropiste Jodhpur 6AM, Jovoy Remember Me, Guerlain Angelique Noire, Officine Universelle Buly Patate Douce des Caraïbes et Carotte d’Afghanistan, Granado Violeta, Firmamento Sileno Cheloni, Diptyque: Orpheon, L’Ombre Dans L'Eau, Baies; Ex Nihilo Spiky Muse, Astier des Villages Mantes La Jolie, Cire Trudon Abd El Kader, Fischersund 101, Glossier You, Glossier Doux, L’Artisan: Musc Amarante, Vetiver Ecarlate, L’Abysssae, Tea for TwoSHOP THIS MONTH'S SPONSOR GOLDFIELD & BANKS!10% off LuckyScent: perfumeroom10 (valid for orders $40+)

In December 2022, Christina Basias-Androulakis (a PhD in digital education) filmed and posted a Tiktok of her wife Alexis Androulakis (a beauty product developer) in Sephora, evaluating the new Make Up By Mario Skin Foundation.That video went viral, and @thelipsticklesbians were off.1.7M followers later, today the duo continues to challenge and shape the way consumers, influencers, marketers, and chemists alike think, talk, and know about beauty.That's the @thelipsticklesbians origin tale...Did you know that Christina and Alexis's begins with fragrance??!Today's ep is full of personal stories, beauty insights and advice, the full scoop on their new beauty evaluation course, LLAB, and some important life lessons along the way!FOLLOW: @thelipsticklesbiansCHECK OUT LLAB: letslearnaboutbeauty.comFRAGS MENTIONED:St. Rose Juliet in White (SOTD), Burberry London, JHAG Not A Perfume, Byredo Blanche, Sol De Janeiro, Kayali, Daise, BBW, Aesop, Loewe, Method, Frenshe, Fine'ry, Solo Loewe Ella, Britney Spears Curious, Giorgio, Bvlgari Tygar, Amouage Guidance 46, Le Labo Another 13, Glossier You, Aesop Eleos, MFK A La Rose, Diptyque Do Son, Marc Jacobs EDP, Le Labo: Rose 31, The Noir 29; Aesop: Ouranon, [meant Aurner], Marrakech; Hermes Eau des Merveilles, Amouage Guidance 46, Shalimar, Dior Poison, Estee Lauder Youth Dew, Chanel No. 5, Balmain Rouge, Kayali Yum Pistachio Gelato, Laura Mercier Eaux Gourmandes, Eau de Space The Smell of Space, Le Labo Santal 33, Relevant 13 StemsProducts Mentioned:Makeup Forever Superboost Lightweight Moisturizing Skin Tint, Estee Lauder Double Wear, Mac Ruby Woo, Mac Studio Fix, Danessa Myricks eyeshadow, Prada Pradalines eyeliner, Victoria Beckham Satin Kajal eyelinerJASMINE SMELL CLUB: jasminesmellclub.eventbrite.comThanks to this month's sponsor Goldfield & Banks! Try Pacific Rock Flower on luckyscent.com (get 10% off w/ code perfumeroom10)

A 150-year-old beauty brand with over 1,000 SKUs, Granado might be new to US market, but in Brazil, it's a household name. This week, I chat with CMO Sissi Freeman about the brand’s uniquely Brazilian identity, its recent global fragrance boom, what it’s like running this legacy brand in lock step with her father (CEO Christopher Freeman), and the smells most special to Brazilians.SOTD: The Body Shop Full IrisFRAGS MENTIONED:Granado: Iris, Esplendor, Nostalgia, Oasis, Oud, Carioca, Epoque Tropical, Bossa, Citrus Brasilis; CKOne, Carolina Herrera 212, Issey Miyake, LeLi Scents, Granado: Gardenia, Magnolia, Suzette, Folha Imperial, Folha de Laranjeira, Limão Taiti & Neroli; Robert Piguet Fracas, Dior PoisonJASMINE SMELL CLUB: jasminesmellclub.eventbrite.comRSVP HERE FOR STELE FLORSTALGIAThanks to this month's sponsor Goldfield & Banks! Try Pacific Rock Flower on luckyscent.com (get 10% off w/ code perfumeroom10)

Did you know that almost all Mysore sandalwood used in perfumery today is actually grown in Australia? Or that Australia has its own native sandalwood species—one that smells completely different from its creamy Indian counterpart? Goldfield & Banks Founder Dimitri Weber did. This is why he built a luxury fragrance brand entirely dedicated to showcasing Australia's rich native botanicals. Today I chat with the French-Belgian founder all about his love affair with Australian botanicals, his role in shaping the identity of modern Australian perfumery, and of course, the flora, fruits, and fragrances that pulled him...down undaaaa. FOLLOW: @goldfield_and_banks_australia | @dimitriweberSHOP ⁠PACIFIC ROCK FLOWER⁠ (10% off w/ code perfumeroom10) (this month's sponsor!)FRAGS MENTIONED:Goldfield & Banks: Mystic Bliss, Purple Suede; Jacomo, Cacharel Pour Homme, Chanel Coco, Goldfield & Banks: Bohemian Lime, Island Lush; YSL Opium, Goldfield & Banks: Wood Infusion, Silky Woods, Silky Woods Elixir, Ingenious Ginger, Pacific Rock Flower*, Silky Woods Elixir* SOTD: Harlem Candle Co. Eartha* (*=gifted with no expectation of review)

Meet the duo behind the narrative-driven candle and fragrance brand, Nomad Noé! As life and business partners, Corentin Hamon and Arash Yomtobian open up about how their cross-continental paths (and a Tinder Super Like ;)) brought them together, how they craft smells inspired by people and places across time, finding their niche within 'niche', and how they preserve scent memories and traditions of "home" both on the move and in diaspora.FRAGS MENTIONED:Nomad Noé Moonwake Tuberose, Robert Piguet Fracas, Frederic Malle Carnal Flower, Michael Kors EDP, Nomad Noé: Untamed Neroli, Elysian Rose, Penhaligon’s Sartorial, Nomad Noé Prophetic Saffron, Penhaligon’s Halfeti, Nomad Noé DREAMER in London, L’Artisan Seville A L’Aube, Nomad Noé: VISIONARY in Esfahan, POET in Hangzhou, L’eau KenzoFOLLOW: @nomadnoe SUBSCRIBE: perfumeroom.substack.comNEW LUCKYSCENT DISCOUNT CODE: perfumeroom10

*RE-AIR (recorded almost 3 years ago to the date!)*World-renowned, award-winning Master Perfumer Alberto Morillas is in the Perfume Room! Alberto is the visionary (and nose) behind blockbuster fragrances you know and love like Estee Lauder Pleasures, Gucci Bloom, CK One, Versace Bright Crystal, Kenzo Flower, Lancome Miracle, Thierry Mugler Cologne, Marc Jacobs Daisy and Armani Acqua Di Gio… and there are hundreds more where that came from! In this episode, we talk mostly about his own personal pride and joy-- his candle and fine fragrance parfum d’excellence: Mizensir. We discuss how and where he sources inspiration, his creative process, what it’s like being in business with his family, his muses, the art and science of perfumery, and of course, Mizensir's newest launches: Vert Empire and Ambre Magique.FRAGS MENTIONED:Mizensir: Luxury, Vert Empire, Très Chère, Little Bianca, Ambre Magique; Kismet Olfactive: Tuberose Tantra, Nymphea, Wedding in Oaxaca, Nostalgia, Studio Scent; Mizensir Verveine Menthe, Mizensir White Rose, Cartier Must II Cartier, Rochas Byzance, Courrèges FH 77, Mizensir Ambre Magique, Estee Lauder pleasures, CK One, Marc Jacobs DaisyFOLLOW ALBERTO: @morillas.albertoFOLLOW MIZENSIR: @mizensirparfums10% OFF MIZENSIR WITH CODE ’PERFUMEROOM10’ : https://twistedlily.com/collections/mizensirSUBSCRIBE TO THE PERFUME ROOM SUBSTACK: perfumeroom.substack.com