Rick Owens Is Finding a Balance Between Control and Collapse

It’s hard to overstate Demna’s influence on fashion. From chunky “ugly” sneakers to oversized silhouettes dominating street style, Demna’s vision at Balenciaga has arguably reshaped the industry forever.In the lead-up to his final couture show for Balenciaga—happening next week in Paris—Nicole Phelps invites Vogue Runway’s senior fashion news editor Laia Garcia-Furtado and fashion journalist and critic Sarah Mower to reflect on the legacy of Demna’s tenure. They trace his rise as a relatively unknown designer at Vetements to a global force who redefined luxury at Balenciaga. The conversation also explores what might lie ahead as Demna steps into his new role as creative director at Gucci.Plus, Chioma and Chloe break down the biggest headlines of the week—from Anna Wintour’s announcement that she’s stepping down as editor-in-chief to Jonathan Anderson’s buzzworthy debut for Dior Homme in Paris. Learn about your ad choices: dovetail.prx.org/ad-choices

Mariska Hargitay doesn’t just play a detective on Law and Order: SVU, she also investigates her own life in the new HBO Max documentary My Mom, Jayne. In the deeply personal deep dive, Mariska cracks open decades-old boxes (with a crowbar, no less) to uncover the untold story of her late mother, 1950s Hollywood icon Jayne Mansfield. On this episode of The Run-Through, hosts Chloe and Margaux Anbouba—Vogue’s senior beauty and wellness editor—sit down with Mariska in the pod studio to talk about grief, the emotional excavation process, and what she discovered about her own identity along the way. Learn about your ad choices: dovetail.prx.org/ad-choices

Today, Nicole Phelps and Vogue’s Digital Style Director Leah Faye Cooper are joined by Washington Post’s senior critic at large Robin Givhan to talk about her new book “Make It Ours: Crashing the Gates of Culture with Virgil Abloh.” They discuss how Virgil changed the conversation around fashion, the future of Off-White, and what it’s like to be a fashion critic in a changing industry.  Learn about your ad choices: dovetail.prx.org/ad-choices

Happy Pride, divas! This week on The Run-Through, pod regular and guest host José Criales-Unzueta is joined by two fabulous designers: Conner Ives and Willie Norris. From Conner’s viral “Protect the Dolls” tee — seen on everyone from Troye Sivan to Pedro Pascal — to Willie’s unforgettable “Promote Homosexuality” moment that's still making waves, the trio get into how these pieces made real impact and the new lives they’ve taken on thanks to the internet. They also dish on the corporate rainbow-washing of Pride and whether or not commercial “representation” is always a good thing.Plus, Chioma and Chloe break down Zohran Mamdani’s big win in the New York democratic mayoral primaries and the must-see moments from Paris Men’s Fashion Week so far! Learn about your ad choices: dovetail.prx.org/ad-choices

This week, a new exhibition dedicated to the work of Rick Owens titled, “Rick Owens: Temple of Love,” opens at the Palais Galliera in Paris—the third such retrospective ever given to a living designer following shows on Azzedine Alaïa in 2013, and Martin Margiela in 2018. Owens joins Nicole Phelps from his office in Paris to discuss how the show came together, his early days as a designer, and his advice for young fashion students. Learn about your ad choices: dovetail.prx.org/ad-choices

Mix rom-com classics like Broadcast News and You’ve Got Mail with today’s impossible dating market and what you might get is Materialists. The new A24 film starring Dakota Johnson, Chris Evans and Pedro Pascal is the latest from Celine Song who also wrote and directed 2023’s indie-hit Past Lives.On today’s episode of The Run-Through, Chloe and Vogue’s research manager and senior digital line editor Lisa Macabasco ask Celine what romcoms she adores, her vote for best love triangle and how her brief, real-life stint as a matchmaker inspired the film.Earlier in the show, Chioma and Chloe dive into Francesco Risso’s departure from Marni and Martine Rose’s fabulous Men’s Spring 2026 show, which created quite a buzz in London over the weekend. Learn about your ad choices: dovetail.prx.org/ad-choices

The spring 2026 menswear shows are just getting started. Ahead of what is sure to be an impactful season, Will Welch, GQ’s Global Editorial Director joined Nicole Phelps on The Run-Through to discuss the current state of menswear. “This [season] feels particularly big,” says Welch, referring to the debuts that will take place in the coming weeks, chief among them Jonathan Anderson’s introduction as the newly-appointed creative director at Dior, but also the American designer Michael Rider’s first show for Celine and Julian Klausner’s inaugural Dries Van Noten menswear show following his womenswear debut last March.Tune in to the conversation to learn about Welch’s favorite under-the-radar designers, what it takes to get Brad Pitt into thigh-high Saint Laurent boots, and how Andre 3000 ended up designing Welch’s suit for this year’s Met Gala celebrating “Superfine: Tailoring Black Style.” Learn about your ad choices: dovetail.prx.org/ad-choices

The iconic Julianne Moore joins Chloe and Vogue Deputy Editor Taylor Antrim to discuss her new thriller Echo Valley and the finale of Sirens. The Oscar winner talks about bonding with her fellow co-stars Sydney Sweeney and Meghann Fahy, as well as the birds from Sirens. She also shares what it was like working with Creative Director Louise Trotter to debut her first piece with Bottega Veneta at Cannes.Plus, Chioma takes us behind the scenes of her shoot with British Vogue’s latest cover star, Dua Lipa! Learn about your ad choices: dovetail.prx.org/ad-choices

With DEI rollbacks affecting every facet of American business and culture, this week’s episode of the Run-Through is a timely conversation between Nicole Phelps and Aurora James, the founder the 15% Pledge, a non-profit organization whose aim is to engage retailers to give 15% of their shelf space to Black-owned businesses. In this candid conversation James talks about the organization’s success stories, the importance of industry support for small, independent brands, and the responsibility she feels to ensure the organization’s success. Learn about your ad choices: dovetail.prx.org/ad-choices

The oh-so-worldly Sarita Choudhury breezed into The Run-Through studio to talk with Chloe Malle and Vogue’s Digital Style Director Leah Faye Cooper about the new season of And Just Like That… including what it was like to kick off her first scene of the season in lingerie. Plus, she reveals where her and her character’s fashion tastes diverge (no animal prints for Sarita, thank you very much). She also shares what it was like to grow up across three countries, and her secret to getting rid of a hangover. Learn about your ad choices: dovetail.prx.org/ad-choices