E50 Debating the New IFSC Bouldering Scoring System

In this episode, supported by OCÚN, Kyra is fresh off competing with the new scoring format at Team Trials. Kyra and Allison together unpack what they missed when they talked about it before actually experiencing it, and how it might change the sport moving forward. They wonder how World Cups will be impacted and get excited for the season to officially start with Kyra heading to China just a few days after this episode was recorded. Then they dive into the latest Olympic announcement: three medals will be awarded for Sport Climbing in LA28 with 76 total athlete spots across lead, boulder, and speed. They take a few educated guesses at how the selection might work, and what this shift means for climbers who’ve traditionally excelled in more than one discipline. Along the way, they veer into a quick race walking and x games tangents, chat about the Olympics as a brand, and talk about Brooke Raboutou's impressive First Female Ascent of Excalibur, 5.15c, becoming the first woman to climb a route of that grade. Check out our Patreon! Extra content for paying an non-paying members alike. https://www.patreon.com/circleup This episode is brought to you by OCÚN Climbing https://www.ocun.com/

In this episode, Kyra and Allison had the pleasure of going to the Tension Climbing shop in Denver, Colorado and chatting with Will Anglin before their flight home about how the Tension brand started and how he developed the Tension Board 2 (aka the TB2). It was fascinating to learn about the process, starting from learning from lessons with their first product (the TB1), to creating holds digitally, setting the board, and then working within constraints to finally get what we now see in gyms across the entire country and world. Will sprinkles in some of his own philosophy and vast climbing wisdom throughout, enjoy!

In this episode, Kyra chats with Jesse Grupper, her good friend, roommate, and fellow Olympian. Jesse and Kyra start off by sharing some insight into their house and their similarities and differences when it comes to training mindset and planning. Jesse shares his thoughts about being an "underdog" in the past and how its helped him push himself and his limits while achieving benchmarked goals along the way. They then talk about how that's changed throughout the years. Jesse shares insight into why he feels so restless on rest days and him and Kyra chat about how climbers can try to use their platform to make a positive impact.

In this episode (episode 50!!) Kyra and Allison debate and explain the new scoring system being implemented in IFSC and many other international and national events. There are big changes this year, where the old tops and zones format was changed to purely be point based. Kyra and Allison lightly disagree about how they define the "best" climber in a round; is it the climber getting the most tops or the climber consistently getting the farthest on all the climbs? Listen to find out! Comment to let us know your thoughts! Check out more on our Patreon at patreon.com/circleup

In this episode of Circle Up!, Kerry Scott shares her journey through the ups and downs of her climbing career. She talks about transitioning from competitions to outdoor climbing—and then back again—and how moving across the country to work in the climbing industry influenced her path. Kerry reflects on the pressure she felt to downplay her competitive side, something she realized wasn’t encouraged in young women the way it often is in men, something both Kyra and Allison heavily relate to. She also tells the story of how training for lead climbing unexpectedly turned her into a boulderer. Throughout the episode, Kyra and Allison share their own thoughts and insights, adding their perspectives on competition, outdoor climbing, and what it means to find purpose in the sport. It’s a thoughtful conversation about balancing ambition and the joy of climbing. To watch this episode and get more exclusive content, follow us on Patreon: www.patreon.com/circleup!

In this episode of Circle Up!, Kyra and Allison revisit a conversation Kyra had with Dan about climbing with a romantic partner—this time, flipping the script and asking Allison for her take. The two dive into the nuances of sharing projects, time, and training with someone you’re dating, leading to a bigger discussion on how relationships intersect with high-level climbing. Then, Kyra breaks down her experience at a recent grip competition in LA, what she learned, and why grip sport might actually be a secret weapon for climbing performance. Tune in for a mix of deep conversation, laughs, and some unexpected takeaways! There was a technical difficulty while filming/recording this episode so they had to re-record the end--sorry for the difference in sound!! If you would like to WATCH this episode, check out the full video on our Patreon: patreon.com/circleup

In this episode, Kyra is joined by Dan Beall (who's stepping in for Allison while she's off crushing boulders in Vegas) and together they dive into the moments when they first saw major breakthroughs in their own climbing and talk about what they believe made the difference. Then, they explore a common challenge among climbers: truly trying hard. Many unknowingly hold themselves back in training, stopping short of their full potential because unlocking 100% effort can be uncomfortable and . Kyra and Dan share insights on how to push harder, embrace a "glass half full" mindset, and get the most out of every session. Loved this episode? Head over to Patreon for an exclusive extension—free for all members! patreon.com/circleup

In this episode, Kyra is joined by returning guest Dan Beall to tackle some big questions: What are tactics, really? How can you best support your romantic partner while climbing? And how do you adjust expectations when health or life complications shift your plans? They bring up common mistakes to avoid both indoors and out while talking about tactics and both share how they focus when they find themselves thinking too much. They swap opinions on what makes the best climbing gyms, with Kyra making the case for why a little grunge adds character. They also open up about how their unique health situations have shaped their expectations and approach to climbing. When the conversation shifts to climbing trips they talk about how to navigate group dynamics, the challenge of balancing priorities when climbing partners are at different levels, and how romantic partners can best support each other on and off the wall. Plus, Kyra shares what it’s been like to start something new (and a little scary): her YouTube channel and relates it to Dan's dive into making a private coaching business.

In this episode, Kyra sits down with Campbell Harrison, Australian Olympic climber and passionate advocate for athlete representation, to explore a wide range of topics. They discuss the impacts of social media on their careers and mental health, and how it can be especially challenging following the Olympic explosion in popularity. They talk about the outdoor industry as a whole, and how climbing stars may be outgrowing the scope of the climbing industry in years to come. The conversation then delves into the challenge of advocating for topics that are close to the chest and putting what is best for the group above what is best for yourself. throughout the episode, Kyra and Campbell discuss the all-too-familiar struggle of fighting the inner voice that creates guilt around taking necessary rest days, indulging in small joys, or stepping back from the grind to focus on holistic well-being. **They discuss drinking alcohol and taking time off drinking, so if this is a sensitive topic for you, skip 27:00-32:45.

In this episode, Kyra and Allison dive into their lesser known backgrounds as lead climbers and how it has shaped their skills as primarily boulderers. They share their favorite exercises and drills for training endurance and discuss why reflecting on your goals can help you modify your training to stay on track. They explore the challenges of climbing well while pumped, overcoming fear to push your limits, and the value of rest and focused attempts over grinding through fatigue. Whether you’re aiming to train for a specific goal or just want ideas on how to switch up your training, this episode has plenty of actionable takeaways for climbers of all levels!