#191) Decoding Peptides with DECIEM's Rita Silva: What Does the Science Say?

Why popular over-the-counter ingredients might be falling short, how prescription options like low-dose tretinoin and spironolactone fit into the picture, and what a realistic, long-term management game plan looks like for aging, irritation-prone skin. Tune in to cut through the marketing noise and get the hard science on managing adult acne! 00:00 | HOT TAKE! 02:20 | The Four Biological Culprits of Breakouts 06:50 | Age Brackets & Defining Post-Adolescent Acne 09:16 | Persistent vs. Late-Onset Acne & Lifestyle Factors 11:37 | Spotlight on The Specialist Acid Booster 15:35 | Men vs. Women: Breaking Down the Prevalence Stats 23:23 | Hormones, DHT, and Systemic Factors 31:47 | Clinical Deep Dive: Low-Dose Tretinoin Efficacy 39:04 | Modern Retinoids Beyond Tretinoin 44:42 | Hot Takes on Salicylic Acid and Azelaic Acid   #skincarescience #acnecare

We spent three years developing our own mask tech, and it’s finally here! Meet CryoGoo, our  lattice jelly peel-off mask, built to get around the material limits of traditional masks.   To celebrate, we are going down a mask tech rabbit hole with everyone. In this episode,we break down what a face mask actually needs to do: occlusion, hydration, and active delivery. Then we put fabric sheet masks, bio-cellulose, hydrogel, PVA wrapping masks, and alginate modeling masks to the test, covering the real pros, cons, and performance of each. And of course, last but not least, we go through what makes our CryoGoo different from everyone else.   LINKS & PRODUCTS Chemist Confessions CryoGoo Jelly Peel-Off Mask: https://chemistconfessions.com/products/cryogoo-cooling-jelly-peel-off-mask Biodance Bio-Collagen Real Deep Mask: https://go.shopmy.us/p-95630015 Revision Skincare Biocellulose Mask: https://go.shopmy.us/p-95631114 Medicube Collagen Night Wrapping Mask: https://go.shopmy.us/p-95630093 Mediheal Derma Modeling Mask: https://go.shopmy.us/p-95630988 CC Podcast Products: https://shopmy.us/collections/4698294 Shop Favorites: https://shopmy.us/chemistconfessions #skincarescience #sheetmask #cosmeticchemistry #newskincareproduct  

In this special episode, we're joined by Rita Silva, Acting Director of Scientific Communications at DECIEM, for a deep dive into the science behind The Ordinary's popular peptide serums. From Multi-Peptide and Matrixyl to Argireline and the latest plant-derived growth factors, we're getting into the formulation history, clinical research, and what these products can realistically do for your skin. And of course, we have to tackle some of your biggest peptide questions. Can you mix copper peptides with vitamin C? Are peptide serums worth adding to a retinoid routine? And where should a peptide beginner even start? #skincarescience #sponsored #peptides #cosmeticchemist

PLEASE NOTE: In this episode, the original Skinceuticals CE Ferulic formula with only 15% ascorbic acid, 1% tocopherol, and 0.5% ferulic acid was tested for this episode. We dive into part two of our vitamin C series by putting popular C E Ferulic dupes to the test. Before revealing our side-by-side stability results, we go through a very helpful study from Slovenia examining 41 finished vitamin C products using HPLC testing to compare the quirks of various vitamin C derivatives—including L-ascorbic acid, ascorbyl glucoside, sodium ascorbyl phosphate, and 3-O-ethyl ascorbic acid. Then we go through our 8 week test findings of 7 CE Ferulic dupes and compare them to the mother formula from Skinceuticals. Shop our favorite C E Ferulic Dupes We've Tried Here: https://shopmy.us/collections/40252 Mentioned in Video & Liked! SKINCEUTICALS | C E Ferulic: https://go.shopmy.us/p-362235 TIMELESS SKIN CARE | 20% Vitamin C + E Ferulic Acid Serum: https://go.shopmy.us/p-362237 MAELOVE | The Glow Maker Serum: https://go.shopmy.us/p-362240 DRMTLGY | Vitamin C E + F Serum 30ml: https://go.shopmy.us/p-87127883 EDUCATED MESS | Golden Hour Gold-Stabilized Vitamin C Serum: https://go.shopmy.us/p-87128013 00:00 | Vitamin C Dupes Series Round 3 Overview 01:16 | Slovenian Study: Analyzing 41 Vitamin C Products with HPLC 06:31 | Comparing L-Ascorbic Acid Stability to the Other Vitamin C Derivatives 15:43 | Meet the Contenders: Pricing and Packaging of Popular Dupes 20:15 | Week 0 to Week 8: Accelerated Oven Stability Test Results 24:53 | Pump Disasters, Gas Buildup, and Sedimentation Issues 28:31 | pH Levels and Batch-to-Batch Consistency in Serums 33:23 | Top Affordable C E Ferulic Alternatives We Recommend 35:16 | Final Thoughts on Vitamin C Derivatives and Derivatives Wrap-Up Don't forget to like, subscribe, and drop your favorite mineral SPF in the comments! #30for30 #SunscreenChallenge #SkincarePodcast  

We dive into a science-heavy breakdown of vitamin C formulations, focusing on the recent updates to the gold-standard C E Ferulic serum. We explore the history of L-ascorbic acid efficacy studies dating back to the 1990s by Dr. Pinnell’s lab, highlighting the classic UV-induced erythema protocol used to validate antioxidant skin protection. Then, we analyze emerging clinical data around new CE Ferulic additions: carnosine and dandelion endophytol and discuss the available data to see if the chemists can figure out whether or not this is worth the Skinceuticals price tag.   00:00 | Intro! 03:15 | L-Ascorbic Acid: A Brief Review 12:48 | What is Dandelion Endophytol? 25:00 | Carnosine's Clinical UV MED Study 29:30 | Reviewing Carnosine's Clinical Testing 34:15 | The Challenges of Plant Extracts and Actives 38:30 | Chemists discuss CE Ferulic vs. CE Ferulic 2.0 41:45 | The Chemists' Feelings on Patents

Check out Soko Glam: Check out our products: https://sokoglam.com/collections/chemist-confessions?_pos=1&_psq=chemist+confessions&_psid=080163648&_ss=e In celebrating our arrival on Soko Glam, we sat down with founder Charlotte Cho to dive deep into the real science, mechanics, and formulation realities behind K-Beauty. We break down the evolution of multi-step routines, the truths behind product categories like toners and essences, and why classic ingredients like snail mucin continue to hold up under scientific scrutiny. From the manufacturing hurdles of hot-pour cleansing balms to navigating US sunscreen filter regulations, we unpack what it takes to formulate effective products amidst viral TikTok trends. If you enjoyed this deep dive, don't forget to LIKE, SUBSCRIBE, and hit the notification bell 🔔 for more science-backed skincare breakdowns! #sokoglam  @sokoglam  #skincarescience

#sponsored We’re taking a deep dive into the science behind K-Beauty brand Dr. Reju-All!   In this sponsored episode, we've partnered with Dr. Reju-All, to share some of their testing behind the products: the Advanced PDRN Rejuvenating Cream and their latest launch, the Advanced PDRN Copper Peptide Serum. We discuss their PDRN ingredient sourcing and why higher concentrations aren't always better—highlighting in vitro and clinical data showing why 1,200 ppm of salmon-derived PDRN is an optimal sweet spot for barrier recovery and hydration. We also analyze their Advanced PDRN Copper Peptide Serum, exploring how encapsulating delicate copper tripeptides helps maintain formula integrity, alongside its clinical results on heat-induced skin stress, elasticity, and fine lines. Finally, we share our real-world user experience on how to layer these unique gel-gel textures into your existing routine. #rejuall #pdrn #copperpeptide • Dr. Reju-All Official Amazon Store: https://amzn.to/4gfUXI1. • Dr. Reju-All Advanced PDRN Rejuvenating Cream: https://amzn.to/4gdo4LT. • Dr. Reju-All Advanced PDRN Copper Peptide Serum: https://amzn.to/4gAJmo6. #drrejuvall #ad #pdrnserum

We’re cutting through the marketing fluff to decode five popular copper peptide serums! In this episode, we analyze the formulas, active ingredient combinations, and clinical data behind products from the Remedy, COSRX, Dr. Reju-All, The Ordinary, and Peach & Lily. We break down what these serums intend to treat, highlight potential formula overlap (like sneaky niacinamide and bakuchiol), and discuss the layering rules you may need to consider for your routine. Hear the chemists' perspective on where peptides fit into a smart anti-aging strategy. Timestamps 00:01 | Copper Peptide Formula Breakdown Strategy 03:00 | Remedy Copper Peptide Complex Review 06:15 | COSRX Blue Peptide Bakuchiol Serum 15:39 | Dr. Reju-All PDRN Copper Peptide Serum 19:02 | The Ordinary Multi-Peptide + Copper Peptides 21:54 | The Orindary Copper Peptide Serum's Layering Restrictions 23:33 | Peach & Lily Copper Peptide Pro Serum 26:24 | Chemists Discuss Copper Peptide Category Efficacy 31:32 | Where Peptides Fit in Your Skincare Routine   #GHKCu #CopperPeptides #SkincareScience #FormulationScience #AntiAgingSkincare #SkincarePodcast #ChemistConfessions #30for30 #  

🧪 Is GHK-Cu Overrated? The Science of Copper Peptides Explained Are Copper Peptides (GHK-Cu) actual anti-aging powerhouses, or just smart marketing hype?   In this video, we dive deep into the 50-year scientific history of GHK-Cu, breaking down the exact biological pathways behind collagen and elastin synthesis. We analyze the physiological realities of peptide size, molecular weight, and the famous 500 Dalton Rule to reveal how much of your product actually penetrates the skin barrier. And most importantly... all the theories and in vitro studies aside, what do the clinical studies REALLY say?   YouTube Timestamps 00:00 | Biological Role of Copper Peptides 02:55 | The Four Categories of Skincare Peptides 04:18 | What is the 500 Dalton Rule? (Skin Permeation Guidelines) 08:32 | GHK-Cu Molecular Weight & Permeability Limitations 18:41 | Copper Peptide better than Tretinoin? What the clinical data ACTUALLY say) 25:20 | Animal Fun Fact! Copper peptides in the animal kingdom 30:58 | Can you use copper peptide with vitamin C? Active Ingredient Incompatibilities & Layering Guidelines   🔗 Resources & Links Animal fun fact study for the curious: https://www.livescience.com/bloodworms-fangs-origins Blank Slate Gel Cleanser https://chemistconfessions.com/products/blank-slate-cleanser (add to cart and get the mini for free with code MINIME) Our Sunscreen Database! https://www.chemistconfessions.com/sunscreen   If you enjoyed this deep dive, don't forget to LIKE, SUBSCRIBE, and hit the notification bell 🔔 for more science-backed skincare breakdowns! #GHKCu #CopperPeptides #SkincareScience #FormulationScience #AntiAgingSkincare #SkincarePodcast #ChemistConfessions #30for30 #SunscreenChallenge  

Description: We are tackling our top 10 sunscreen takeaways after four straight years of testing dozens of formulas in our 3430 series! From figuring out how much SPF you actually need to apply (and why we rating-split over the infamous Rich Area Hold Cream), we get into all the messy details. We also dive into eye-area stinging, why US mineral sunscreens hit differently, layering under makeup, handling acne flare-ups, and finding out if dropping to SPF 30 actually gives you better texture. Timestamps 00:01:05 | How Much Sunscreen Should You Actually Apply? 00:03:22 | Why Did the Rich Area Hold Cream Get a Mediocre Rating? 00:05:51 | Can You Safe Apply Sunscreen to Eyelids Without Eye Stinging? 00:09:09 | Does Rubbing Sunscreen in Too Long Ruin the Protective Film? 00:12:09 | Are US Sunscreens Inferior to International Sunscreens? 00:15:47 | How Do You Layer Sunscreen Under Makeup Without Pilling? 00:18:00 | What Is the Best Replacement for Banana Boat Light as Air? 00:20:00 | Does Sunscreen Cause Acne Breakouts? 00:20:53 | Does Lowering to SPF 30 Offer Better Texture Than SPF 50? 00:25:17 | How Do You Proper Remove Water-Resistant Sunscreen?   Check out the rest of the sunscreen tested at chemistconfessions.com/sunscreen Don't forget to like, subscribe, and drop your favorite mineral SPF in the comments! #30for30 #SunscreenChallenge #skincarepodcast