Lift Free And Diet Hard with Andrew Coates podcast

#447 Dr Natasha Barnes - Does Weighing Less Make For Better Climbers and Athletes?

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Dr Natasha Barnes returns to share her expertise on climbing and strength training and how these principles apply broadly to everyone, including thoughts about:

-Are lighter climbers better climbers

-The problem with focusing on weighing less as a performance enhancer in climbing

-Is disordered eating more prevalent in climbing and weight class sports?

-Are more climbers coming around to the value of strength training

-The story behind Natasha saying “The lightest I’ve ever been was also the most broken I’ve ever been”

-Why climbing may be a great outlet for adults to put more fun and play into their lives

-When you would benefit from putting on weight and muscle for your sport

-How to enhance strength without gaining weight

-Why squatting is better than doing pistol squats for most training goals

-The problem with feats of strength on social media, that aren’t useful training methodologies

-How can someone reduce the chance of injury when starting a new program

-Is climbing a safe activity

-How people end up increasing their risk of injury in training and climbing

-And much more


IG: @natashabarnes


CHAPTERS


00:46 Are lighter climbers better

02:10 Free solo and El Capitan

03:24 Calculated risk and preparation

05:34 Strength to weight myth

07:07 Technique over weight loss

07:47 Eating disorders in climbing

09:22 Leg strength and injuries

10:48 Olympic climbing explained

11:36 Sponsor break — RP app

12:59 Why strength training matters

14:00 Longevity and pro trends

15:44 “Lightest and most broken”

17:43 Disordered eating behaviors

19:56 Strength without weight gain

21:42 Programming for strength

23:41 Body fat sweet spot

24:43 Society and being smaller

26:14 Ozempic and media extremes

28:27 Role models and responsibility

28:48 Celebrity body scrutiny

30:19 Pistol squats vs real strength

33:54 Climbing parlor tricks

35:27 New program new injury

38:12 Autoregulation with RPE

40:13 Underprepared tissue injuries

42:52 Why climbing feels like play

44:02 How to start climbing

46:54 Climbing injury rates

48:05 Aging vs undertraining

53:33 Bone density comebacks

54:40 Where to find Natasha


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