109 - The High Passes of Ladakh and the Himalaya

The Himalaya are the highest and greatest mountain range on earth, and their importance to Asian culture and history cannot be overstated.  1.6 billion people rely on fresh water that drains from the Himalaya and the Tibetan Plateau. In this episode, we focus on Ladakh, the northernmost territory in India, the "Land of High Passes" where the most prominent passes over the Himalaya could be found, passes that brought Buddhism to Tibet, Islam to India, and culture to all parts of Asia.  Leading a caravan over the passes was not for the faint of heart - or the faint of oxygen. Since Ladakh is next door to Kashmir, we will talk about one of my favorite Kashmiri dishes: Rogan Josh! Photo by Reflectionsbyprajakta

The Naqsh-e Jahan Square is a remarkable example of urban planning, the centerpiece of the grand imperial capital of Esfahan, Iran.  The capital was built by hundreds of thousands of people for the glory of Shah Abbas the Great of the Safavid Dynasty. While I'm sure the story of his military triumphs is interesting, I find the drama of his family to be waaay more interesting.  From his poetry-hating grandfather to his opium-addicted gay uncle, from his blind father to the rivalry between his aunt and mother, Abbas couldn't be the paranoid maniac he was without the work of all those who came before. Listener Krister Törneke returns to talk about his several visits to Esfahan over the years, and we enjoy a plate of ghormeh-sabsi! Photo by Pedram Forouzanfar

Perhaps the most ethereal and beautiful astronomical sight available to regular old humans, the auroras borealis and australis, the Northern and Southern Lights have amazed and inspired us for our whole existence on earth. One of the better places to see the Northern Lights is northern Sweden, and this episode covers the five years in which Sweden was the dominant military force on the planet: the brief, happy campaign of Gustavus Adolphus.  We'll discuss his triumphs, his disasters, and his impact on the Thirty Years War.  Listener Krister Torneke returns to talk about his home country - he'll be back next month as well! And of course, we make Swedish meatballs! Extra bonus points if you find all the ABBA references!

February 8th!  Got to https://intelligentspeechonline.com/ for tickets!  And use the promo code WONDERS to get 10% off!  It'll be great!

The Rhine River flows through the heartland of western Germany, through a gorge passing an average of one castle per mile.  Reisling vineyards, charming villages, and castle after castle after castle surround you as you drift along the river.  But almost 400 years ago, this idyllic valley was caught up in the most devestating war in pre-20th century European history. In this episode, we'll cover the first two stages of the Thirty Years War, focusing not on the battles, but on the people who made the decisions that caused this calamity to unfold.  In particular, we'll focus on Frederick II, Elector of the Palatinate, and his questionable, if heartfelt, choice to take the crown of Bohemia.  We'll also visit with Ferdinand II of Austria and Christian IV of Denmark, and many others! And of course, we'll enjoy sauerbraten, while I tell the sad tale of my 1998 trip to Germany. Das was nicht sehr gut!

Nestled on a bend of the Vltava River, the beautiful town of Český Krumlov is one of the best preserved medieval towns in Europe. It's also the site of a horrific true crime! (Oo, let's get those true crime junkies in on this!) Rudolf II had troubles, and the mental illness of his son Julius only adds to the load. But the decline and fall of Rudolf II and the murder of Markéta Pichlerová is only part of the story.  We're also going to talk about the Defenestration of Prague, one of the defining moments in European history and the event that kicked off the first Great War of the early modern era. Melissa Joulwan of the Strong Sense of Place podcast - a podcast dedicated to literary travel and books with vivid settings - returns to talk about visiting Český Krumlov and eating so many delicious Czech foods, including wild bluebery dumplings! Photograph by Jorge Valenzuela  CC: 4.0

They say a giant man of clay sits in the attic, waiting for centuries for his instructions.  The story of the Golem in Prague is one of the classics of western storytelling, yet did you know that the temple where the Golem is rumored to be is a real place? The Old New Synagogue, one of the oldest active synagogues in the world, sits in the heart of Josefov, Prague's Jewish district. In this episode, we'll talk about Holy Roman Emperor Rudolf II, who ruled from Prague, and his fascination with astronomy, alchemy, and mystiticism. We'll discuss the fascinating people he surrounded himself with, including Chief Rabbi, Kabbalah Expert, and supposed Golem-maker Judah Loew. Joining me for this episode is Melissa Joulwan, one of the hosts of Strong Sense of Place — a podcast and website dedicated to literary travel and books with vivid settings. Melissa has lived in Prague for seven years and shares her favorite spots and treats, including větrníky, glorious caramel cream puffs.

You've seen it on a million pizza boxes, in a thousand Italian restaurants, and in photos of your Dad pretending to hold it up.  It's the Leaning Tower! Why does it lean?  And why is it so gracefully elegant in its leaning? Most of this episode, however, is about the most famous person to be associated with the tower: the astronomer Galileo.  Did he really drop weights from the tower? Probably not. But he did change our entire perception of the universe, and his story involves an astronomical arms race. And of course the Inquisition.  You never expect the Inquisition... We'll also talk about ragú bolognese, the classic sauce from the nearby region of Emilia-Romagna.  Why pick bolognese instead of another Tuscan dish? Reasons.

The youngest of the world's seven largest religions is Sikhism, founded in Punjab in the 16th century. Nanak, a guru, or teacher, from outside Lahore, spent three days lost along a river and returned with an undestanding of one God: the Ultimate Reality. Nanak created a religion founded on equality, service, and openness, yet his successors would soon find themselves under attack from vested interests, particularly the Mughal Empire. In this episide, we visit the Golden Temple, or Harmandir Sahib, their holiest shrine. It is a brilliantly gorgeous golden temple surrounded by a tranquil pool, visited by a steady stream of devoted Sikhs. We'll recount some of the challenges the Sikhs have faced, challenges which have made them fiercely willing to defend their people and their faith. And of course, we'll include that most famous Punjabi dish: tandoori chicken, or at least as close as we can come without an actual tandoor!

One of the world's great museums of Renaissance art: the Uffizi.  Meaning "the offices," the Uffizi were quite literally built as an office buidling for the growing administration of Cosimo I de' Medici, the first Grand Duke of Tuscany, the leader who brought authoritarian rule, if also stablity, to Florence. Bry Rayburn from the Pontifacts podcast, joins me once again to talk about Cosimo, her historic bae, the great museum, and the rest of his legacy. We also talk about our old friend Giorgio Vasari, author, artist and architect, a true Renaissance man. And of course, ribollita, that classic Tuscan white bean stew!