What Climbers get wrong about core training with Evan Ingerson DPT

We're on break but that doesn't mean we don't have things we want to share with you. This week we're highlighting a fellow PlugToner, Mario Stanley. Mario is the host and creator of the Sends and Suffers Podcast.  A renaissance man through and through, he is a climber, coach, filmmaker, podcaster, former route setter, advocate for making climbing accessible to all, and so much more. We're thrilled to highlight this episode of Sends and Suffers in our feed. ABOUT THE EPISODE: Join us in a conversation with Houston-based coach, Dru Stulb, in this episode of Sends and Suffers. Host Mario Stanley and Dru discuss climbing evolution, coaching, and personal growth. Learn about Dru's journey from enthusiast to coach, the role of climbing coaches, and their impact on the sport. Discover the joys of coaching, challenges faced, and the rewards of seeing athletes grow. We also discuss the socio-economic challenges facing aspiring climbers, personal struggles, and the role of coaches in shaping expectations and growth. Finally, learn about unique teaching methods, understanding individual goals, and the power of a transformative community in sport. This episode is a deep dive into the heart of coaching and its influence on shaping the future of climbing culture.

We're taking a break! See you back here in August! EPISODE TOPIC REQUEST FORM https://forms.gle/GAinnha1sG8EveUB9   LEARN MORE ABOUT THE CREW www.goodsprayclimbing.com/the-crew last day to enroll for July is 6/27! Join Caitlin's Newsletter https://mailchi.mp/caitlinholmes/newsletter-bingo-signup

"If I train my endurance enough, I'll never get pumped and I'll never fall" If that's the way you're approaching your endurance training, this episode is for you. Improving your pumpy climbing abilities has a lot to do with A. your forearm endurance and B. how well you can keep your cool when the pump sets in.  In this episode, we're taking you through a training progression to help you with both the mental and physical aspects of endurance. Get ready for some sweaty palms and bricked forearms! RESOURCES:  IG reel showing what "level 2" looks like:: https://www.instagram.com/reel/CsJ7EsAgptQ/?utm_source=ig_web_copy_link&igsh=MW81aDByZW1jdWowbg== Rhythm intervals by Climb Strong https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=arH2ouVoaGs CAMPUS PUNKS:  https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZexnS9lLdRw WRIST ROLLER EXAMPLE:  https://www.youtube.com/shorts/ubHDHIHI1EI WORK WITH US:  PLAY NUTRITION BINGO WITH CAITLIN (newsletter sign-up) Apply for 1:1 Coaching with Lauren Join the wait list for the next round of The Crew Additional Links: If you've submitted a review that we've read on the show - fill out this form to claim your sticker! https://forms.gle/yt72CVpfLHY396aW7 Submit your episode ideas to us: https://docs.google.com/forms/d/e/1FAIpQLSdcmb5M_M4ZyaDqT26cYTKVNNVhyvSW-y-7nCsCps4wAgCAUw/viewform Support us on Patreon: https://www.patreon.com/averageclimberpodcast Learn more about Plug Tone Audio: www.plugtoneaudio.com  

Want to eat better? You have to change your behavior. Follow a training plan? Gotta change your behavior. Stick to a stretching routine? You guessed it - BEHAVIOR CHANGE.  Changing your behavior is the root of everything you want to accomplish. In this episode, we're giving you six killer tips (beyond "Atomic Habits" stuff) to help you change your behaviors for the better.  PLAY NUTRITION BINGO WITH CAITLIN (newsletter sign-up) Apply for 1:1 Coaching with Lauren Join the wait list for the next round of The Crew Additional Links: If you've submitted a review that we've read on the show - fill out this form to claim your sticker! https://forms.gle/yt72CVpfLHY396aW7 Submit your episode ideas to us: https://docs.google.com/forms/d/e/1FAIpQLSdcmb5M_M4ZyaDqT26cYTKVNNVhyvSW-y-7nCsCps4wAgCAUw/viewform Support us on Patreon: https://www.patreon.com/averageclimberpodcast Learn more about Plug Tone Audio: www.plugtoneaudio.com RESOURCES + CREATORS TO FOLLOW: Read Wendy Wood's review on The Psychology of Habit CTFAR MODEL (credit: Brooke Castillo + BBA Team for showing me this model!) @karinnordinphd @jime.ramirez.coaching RESOURCES FOR COACHES: Health Mindset Coaching Certification Coach Shannon Beer Body Brain Alliance Coach Mentorship

Dr. Evan Ingerson is back and this time we're tackling CORE TRAINING FOR CLIMBERS. Get the perspective of a physical therapist (Evan) and a coach (Lauren) as they dissect the big questions of core training like... - Should your core training be climbing specific? - How can you tell if your core is "low hanging fruit"? - What are the most common core training mistakes climbers make? We're covering all that and more - core up and tune in. WORK WITH EVAN: www.theclimbingproject.com Email him: [email protected] Bunkie test: https://youtu.be/nMWiRSh7VhU Evan's favorite core exercises: https://youtu.be/jUVkrwxfQ9E ADDITIONAL LINKS: PLAY NUTRITION BINGO WITH CAITLIN Apply for 1:1 Coaching with Lauren Join the wait list for the next round of The Crew If you've submitted a review that we've read on the show - fill out this form to claim your sticker! https://forms.gle/yt72CVpfLHY396aW7 Submit your episode ideas to us: https://docs.google.com/forms/d/e/1FAIpQLSdcmb5M_M4ZyaDqT26cYTKVNNVhyvSW-y-7nCsCps4wAgCAUw/viewform Support us on Patreon: https://www.patreon.com/averageclimberpodcast Learn more about Plug Tone Audio: www.plugtoneaudio.com

Should you take a week off or keep climbing on that tweaky finger? If a move makes your shoulder hurt a LOT but it feels fine 5 minutes later, what does that mean? If injury and pain feel confusing (or frustrating) to you - which is understandable - this episode with Climbing DPT Evan Ingerson is right up your alley. He has been working with climbers for 9+ years, climbing for 25 years, and was a multi-year youth national competitor. We are so excited to bring Evan’s expertise and impeccable bedside manner to the Average Climber Pod. WORK WITH EVAN: www.theclimbingproject.com Email him: [email protected] Ted Talk on chronic pain as recommended by Evan: https://youtu.be/gwd-wLdIHjs?si=nd5bmtzquVdLWIjX PLAY NUTRITION BINGO WITH CAITLIN Apply for 1:1 Coaching with Lauren Join the wait list for the next round of The Crew Additional Links: If you've submitted a review that we've read on the show - fill out this form to claim your sticker! https://forms.gle/yt72CVpfLHY396aW7 Submit your episode ideas to us: https://docs.google.com/forms/d/e/1FAIpQLSdcmb5M_M4ZyaDqT26cYTKVNNVhyvSW-y-7nCsCps4wAgCAUw/viewform Support us on Patreon: https://www.patreon.com/averageclimberpodcast Learn more about Plug Tone Audio: www.plugtoneaudio.com

If you're someone who trains in the evenings after a long day of work - we see you, we feel you, and we know that some afternoons get totally off track. In this episode we're guiding you through the process of saving yourself from saying "eh, I'll just move that session to tomorrow". If you ever struggle with evening training motivation - this is for you. PLAY NUTRITION BINGO WITH CAITLIN Apply for 1:1 Coaching with Lauren Join the wait list for the next round of The Crew Additional Links: If you've submitted a review that we've read on the show - fill out this form to claim your sticker! https://forms.gle/yt72CVpfLHY396aW7 Submit your episode ideas to us: https://docs.google.com/forms/d/e/1FAIpQLSdcmb5M_M4ZyaDqT26cYTKVNNVhyvSW-y-7nCsCps4wAgCAUw/viewform Support us on Patreon: https://www.patreon.com/averageclimberpodcast Learn more about Plug Tone Audio: www.plugtoneaudio.com

This episode features some b roll that we recorded for the hell of it. For those of you looking for some nutrition help when you're thinking about big days out in the elements, this episode will have some tasty tips for you. Plus, if you're one of those climber-runner types - this episode has plenty of nutrition tips you'll want to tune in for. *A NOTE ON THE RACE ELEVATION* Lauren still does not have feedback from the race organizers; however despite what Lauren's topography explorations on the Gaia app, the race elevation gain was more like 2400 feet. Lauren asked around what a few other racers' watches said and that seemed to be the approximate consensus. Lauren notes that it was overall a pleasant surprise.  PLAY NUTRITION BINGO WITH CAITLIN Apply for 1:1 Coaching with Lauren Join the wait list for the next round of The Crew Additional Links: If you've submitted a review that we've read on the show - fill out this form to claim your sticker! https://forms.gle/yt72CVpfLHY396aW7 Submit your episode ideas to us: https://docs.google.com/forms/d/e/1FAIpQLSdcmb5M_M4ZyaDqT26cYTKVNNVhyvSW-y-7nCsCps4wAgCAUw/viewform Support us on Patreon: https://www.patreon.com/averageclimberpodcast Learn more about Plug Tone Audio: www.plugtoneaudio.com

Ever wondered what it's like to boulder in France? What if your rest days could be a day trip to Paris? In this episode Caitlin is giving us all the details on her recent trip to Fontainebleau. This episode is two parts travel guide and one part chat between two good friends. If you're looking for climbing trip ideas, tune in ASAP. PLAY NUTRITION BINGO WITH CAITLIN Apply for 1:1 Coaching with Lauren Join the wait list for the next round of The Crew Additional Links: Submit your episode ideas to us: https://docs.google.com/forms/d/e/1FAIpQLSdcmb5M_M4ZyaDqT26cYTKVNNVhyvSW-y-7nCsCps4wAgCAUw/viewform Send Lauren an email and get a sticker for submitting a podcast review! https://www.goodsprayclimbing.com/contact Support us on Patreon: https://www.patreon.com/averageclimberpodcast Learn more about Plug Tone Audio: www.plugtoneaudio.com  

With the limitless options for how you can climb something, it's understandable that you might be looking over your shoulder every now and again for beta that feels better. So how do you decide if you need to ditch your beta for an upgrade, or stick with it and try harder? We're serving up 6 tips to help clear that up. PLAY NUTRITION BINGO WITH CAITLIN Apply for 1:1 Coaching with Lauren Join the wait list for the next round of The Crew Additional Links: Submit your episode ideas to us: https://docs.google.com/forms/d/e/1FAIpQLSdcmb5M_M4ZyaDqT26cYTKVNNVhyvSW-y-7nCsCps4wAgCAUw/viewform Send Lauren an email and get a sticker for submitting a podcast review! https://www.goodsprayclimbing.com/contact Support us on Patreon: https://www.patreon.com/averageclimberpodcast Learn more about Plug Tone Audio: www.plugtoneaudio.com