In Their Words: Makenna Held on Embracing New Beginnings

It’s been over a year since I traded my life in California for one in Italy. And while I’ve easily fallen into daily life here, I still crave the way California marked the seasons—not always with weather (hello, San Francisco), but with food. For the eight years I lived in the Bay Area, food was always the signal of change: Early Girl tomatoes in the summer; Dungeness crab and citrus brightening the winter. This week’s guest brings us a taste of that California seasonality. Elizabeth Poett is a seventh-generation rancher, living and working on her family’s 14,000-acre property outside of Santa Barbara. In her first cookbook, The Ranch Table, she invites us along for a year on the ranch: from Branding Day feast in the spring to summer beach cookouts, fall garden harvest, and winter holiday gatherings.Episode 172: Elizabeth PoettElizabeth joined me last year in San Francisco, at our studio in The Civic Kitchen cooking school, and shared her approach to cooking. Much of her inspiration comes from her family heritage, as with the handwritten recipe cards passed down from her grandfather.In our conversation, Elizabeth shares:* How her cookbook The Ranch Table tells the story of a year on her family’s California ranch through seasonal recipes and gatherings.* Why community and abundance are at the heart of her cooking.* How recipes serve as heirlooms, connecting generations across time.Plus, we put Elizabeth to the test in our signature culinary game.The Ranch Table: Recipes from a Year of Harvests, Celebrations, and Family Dinners on a Historic California Ranch by Elizabeth PoettFrom the star of Magnolia Network’s popular show Ranch to Table—a stunningly beautiful cookbook celebrating a year on a ranch on the California coast, featuring simple yet festive recipes, inspiring menus, and fascinating culture and history.Elizabeth Poett was raised on Rancho San Julian, a 14,000-acre ranch on Santa Barbara’s Central Coast that her family has been working since 1837. Her years are structured around the land’s natural rhythms and annual events: celebrations big and small, harvests, and work days that bring her family and community together—and always end with large meals for everyone to share. Elizabeth feeds her friends and family with seasonal ingredients—including vegetables and meat grown and raised on the ranch and fish from California’s Central Coast—barbecuing tri-tips, turning local cod into tacos, and using heirloom tomatoes and summery eggplant into delicious, family friendly pastas.Much like Elizabeth’s life, The Ranch Table is also organized around the work and celebrations that take place on the San Julian throughout the year, giving readers and cooks a chance to dive into the ranch’s most important workdays, family traditions big and small, and annual celebrations. Each chapter begins with a description of an event or a special day—the work of a branding, the joys of the annual family reunion, the fun of a fall cider press, the quiet beauty of a winter evening spent at the kitchen table—and invites you to join in on the day with both beautiful photos of the ranch today and archival images of its past. In each chapter, Elizabeth also shares the recipes for the dishes she makes for these occasions.We 💚 local bookstores. Pick up your copy of The Ranch Table here:For paid Substack subscribers, we’re sharing two of Elizabeth’s recipes from The Ranch Table: her Butternut Squash Soup with Sage and Cast-Iron Corn Bread. Together, they’re a cozy, seasonal meal that’s ready as we transition into autumn.Salt + Spine is supported by listeners like you. For this week’s recipes—plus exclusive content and access to hundreds of other featured recipes from your favorite cookbook authors—become a paid subscriber today. This is a public episode. If you'd like to discuss this with other subscribers or get access to bonus episodes, visit saltandspine.substack.com/subscribe

Makenna Held reads from 'Mostly French' about a life-changing purchase and personal discovery. This is a public episode. If you'd like to discuss this with other subscribers or get access to bonus episodes, visit saltandspine.substack.com/subscribe

Mostly French with Makenna HeldHost Brian Hogan Stewart is joined by his guest, Makenna Held, on the latest episode of Salt + Spine' now part of the Heritage Radio Network. McKenna shares her journey from a background in consulting to becoming a culinary educator after buying Julia Child's former summer home in France. She discusses her bold pivot into the world of food and explains her cooking philosophy, which focuses on improvisational and seasonal cooking rather than strict reliance on recipes. She also touches on her global culinary influences and the challenges of writing her first cookbook. 00:00 Makenna Held Introduction03:52 Early Life and Career Beginnings 06:07 The Pull Towards Food and Hospitality 07:58 The Julia Child House Adventure 12:14 Starting a New Life in France 15:45 Balancing History and Innovation 20:16 Courageous Cooking Philosophy 26:49 Global Influences and Cookbook Development 31:41 Salt Collection Obsession 32:27 First Cookbook Journey 33:14 Recipe Development Process 35:44 Balancing Perfection and Practicality 36:42 Personal Stories Behind Recipes 38:41 Cooking for Kids 41:01 Influences and Inspirations 46:37 Culinary Game 52:09 Conclusion This is a public episode. If you'd like to discuss this with other subscribers or get access to bonus episodes, visit saltandspine.substack.com/subscribe

Live from Cookbook Fest with Tyler Florence In this episode of Salt and Spine, host Brian Hogan Stewart interviews acclaimed chef Tyler Florence live from Cookbook Fest in Napa. Tyler shares his inspirational journey from a childhood filled with severe food allergies to becoming a renowned chef and television personality. Growing up in South Carolina and cultivating a deep love for Southern cuisine, Tyler's path led him to culinary school and eventually to New York City's culinary scene. He discusses his passion for live fire cooking, his newest cookbook 'American Grill,' and the importance of sustainable beef production. The episode also features a fun culinary game where Tyler demonstrates his creativity in crafting a dish using randomly drawn ingredients.00:00 The Ceremony of Cooking00:24 Introduction to the Live Episode01:05 Tyler Florence's Early Life and Food Allergies04:11 Discovering a Passion for Cooking08:35 Culinary School and Early Career13:34 Moving to New York and Early TV Appearances15:56 The Journey to Fame and Success23:24 Sustainable Beef and Regenerative Agriculture30:33 Mastering Live Fire: The New Cookbook31:11 The Comet and Its Tail: A Metaphor for Career Decisions31:53 Launching a Steak Restaurant: The Comet Moment32:33 From Comfort Food to Grilling: A Culinary Pivot33:08 The Art of Grilling: Personal Insights and Techniques34:27 Celebrating Culinary Achievements and Collaborations36:44 Alice Waters: A Friendship and Culinary Inspiration37:16 The Essence of California Cuisine42:38 Cookbook Inspirations and Southern Cooking Techniques45:49 Fun with Grilling: A Culinary Game54:17 Conclusion and Farewell This is a public episode. If you'd like to discuss this with other subscribers or get access to bonus episodes, visit saltandspine.substack.com/subscribe

Enjoy this excerpt as Viola Buitoni reads from Italy by Ingredient. As Viola recounts, one vivid memory stands out from her childhood. It was a late September day when her mother took her to a fishmonger in Orbitel, nestled by the southern Tuscan coast. The experience, accentuated by the salty breeze of the lagoon and the familial presence, introduced her to bottarga—a cured fish roe delicacy—that has lingered in her kitchen and heart for fifty years.Viola fondly recalls stepping into the courtyard, her mother’s gentle guidance leading her to bottarga, an ingredient as much about tradition as it is about taste. She vividly describes their ritual of shaving it over buttered toast with lemon upon returning home, which later graced their spaghetti—a testament to Bottarga’s sea-like essence that mirrors the salt, wind, and shells. This is a public episode. If you'd like to discuss this with other subscribers or get access to bonus episodes, visit saltandspine.substack.com/subscribe

Exploring Italy by Ingredient with Viola ButoniIn this episode of Salt and Spine, host Brian Hogan Stewart welcomes Viola Butoni to discuss her first cookbook, "Italy by Ingredient." Viola delves into her rich Italian culinary lineage, tracing back to the Butoni pasta and bocce chocolate. Growing up surrounded by fresh, homegrown produce and moving to New York, she transitioned from restaurant kitchens to owning a food shop, and eventually becoming a beloved cooking teacher. Viola's cookbook integrates her Italian roots with California's agricultural bounty, aiming to guide home cooks in exploring authentic Italian flavors with pantry staples. Throughout the episode, they discuss Viola's cooking tips, her unique recipes, and the creative process behind combining traditional and innovative Italian cuisine. The show also features a culinary game and an excerpted recipe narrated by Viola.00:00 Welcome Viola Buitoni03:08 Family Legacy and Food Heritage05:17 Childhood and Early Food Experiences08:22 Moving to New York and Culinary Beginnings11:20 Starting a Catering Business13:43 Transition to Teaching and Italy by Ingredient 15:42 The Concept of Italy by Ingredient 29:07 Choosing the Best Meat for Stew 29:41 Creative Rice Recipes 32:44 Pork Tenderloin in Bread Crust 34:43 Anchovy Enthusiasm 37:40 Chicken and Rabbit Recipes 40:24 Cookbook Inspirations 44:45 Italy by Secret Ingredient Game 49:08 Conclusion and Farewell This is a public episode. If you'd like to discuss this with other subscribers or get access to bonus episodes, visit saltandspine.substack.com/subscribe

This is a public episode. If you'd like to discuss this with other subscribers or get access to bonus episodes, visit saltandspine.substack.com/subscribe

Episode 168: Sohla El-WayllyThis week, Sohla El-Waylly joins us to #TalkCookbooks! I was so thrilled to have Sohla join us in studio for a chat about her career and her debut cookbook, Start Here: Instructions for Becoming a Better Cook. In this episode, we hear from Sohla about her childhood, growing up in the San Fernando Valley and watching her mother prepare elaborate, multi-course Bengladeshi dinners for dozens (sometimes hundreds) at a time. And despite a phase as a picky eater, Sohla realized early on that she enjoyed working with her hands—from building furniture (lots of clocks!) to, eventually, cooking.After culinary school and working in fine dining kitchens, Sohla found herself gravitating towards food media, working first with Serious Eats and then Bon Appetit. While not her initial career objective, Sohla has carved a space in the competitive food media world, celebrated for her on-camera work and creative approach to culinary history.With her cookbook Start Here, Sohla created a playful-but-informative tome (600+ pages!) that emphasizes teaching culinary techniques for both sweet and savory cooking. And she’s intentionally done so in a way that many such technique-driven cookbooks before it haven’t: by rejecting the notion that European culinary technique are supreme, ensuring the book includes recipes from a wide range of cuisines and diets. 🎙️ | We had a great chat with Sohla—and of course, we put her to the test in our signature culinary game! Find this episode here on Substack and anywhere you get your podcasts. This is a public episode. If you'd like to discuss this with other subscribers or get access to bonus episodes, visit saltandspine.substack.com/subscribe

This week, Lara Gilmore joins me to discuss Slow Food, Fast Cars, the latest book from her and her husband, chef Mossimo Bottura.The book tells the story—through photography, essays, and of course recipes—of Casa Maria Luigia, the boutique inn (albergo) opened by Lara and Mossimo in 2019. Once here, a restored 18th-century villa offers a dozen guest rooms, uniquely decorated with art from Lara & Massimo’s personal collection. From there, the property unfolds: meticulously landscaped orchards and vegetable gardens supply the casual kitchen, led by Osteria Francescana alum Jessica Rosaval, and the on-site restaurant, Francescana at Maria Luigia, where Rosaval and team offer a nightly tasting menu showcasing nine of Massimo’s most iconic dishes. Nearby is the “playground,” where you’ll find a pool table, a gym, and most visibly Massimo’s collection of cars and motorcycles. And Casa Maria Luicia breathes the region, down to every detail: guests staying on the property will find hunks of Parmigiano Reggiano and bottles of Lambrusco greeting them in their rooms.This dichotomy of fast/slow appears often in Massimo’s work. Perhaps most known is his dish, Five Ages of Parmigiano Reggiano, which has been an evolving presence at Osteria Francescana for decades. “It’s about celebrating the slow passing of time,” he tells Forbes, “with a fast and contemporary mind.”In Slow Food, Fast Cars, you’ll find recipes like:Gnocco Fritto, the classic Emilian fried dough, in this case topped with mortadella, whipped ricotta, and extra-aged balsamic vinegar. (“Once you join the fraternity of gnocco fritto,” the authors write, “it is very hard to turn back.”)Smoked Beef Short Rib, a less traditional way of addressing the short rib cute in Modena, but one that at Casa Maria Luigia is paired with a sauce built from smoked fresh apricots and marigold vinegar.Tiramisu, an “untouchable classic” that the team serves in small, individual-sized glass jars to guests.An ML Pantry section that offers infused waters (Fennel Water!), preserved fruits (Amarena Jam!), and other conserves, oils, vinegar, liqueurs, and salts. 🎙️ | We had a great chat with Lara—and of course, we put her to the test in our signature culinary game! Find this episode here on Substack and anywhere you get your podcasts. This is a public episode. If you'd like to discuss this with other subscribers or get access to bonus episodes, visit saltandspine.substack.com/subscribe

Episode 166: James ParkThis week, James Park joins us to discuss his first cookbook, Chili Crisp: 50+ Recipes to Satisfy Your Spicy, Crunchy, Garlicky Cravings.James is a seasoned recipe developer and food writer who has been published in outlets including Eater, Food52, BuzzFeed, and Chowhound. After moving from Korea to the American South when he was 13, James began to navigate two cultural identities and continued to turn to food as a medium.And unless you’ve been living under a rock, you know chili crisp has been having a ~moment~ in the United States. While the condiment has become trendy in the US, its roots are deep in Asia and became a more steady consumer product when Lao Gan Ma began producing containers of chile crisp in China’s Guizhou province in the late 1990s. A slew of American brands have emerged with chili crisps and chili crisp-inspired products, with Cathy Erway chronicling the “cult of spicy chile crisp” for TASTE. Just this month, David Chang’s Momofuku brand drove chili crisp headlines after going after (and then backing off) companies using their trademarked term “chili crunch.”So when James went to write his first cookbook and narrowed his focus on chili crisp, it was in sync with the zeitgeist. Though he considers himself an “unofficial chili crisp ambassador,” James didn’t discover the condiment until later in life, which allowed him to see how he could incorporate it into recipes in creative and unexpected ways.“Chili crisp opened the door of connections with other Asian cultures for me,” James writes in Chili Crisp. “The more I tasted chili crisp, the more I appreciated it and was proud to be a part of it. It even became my pickup line when making new friends. Do you know about chili crisp? Do you like chili crisp? What's your favorite way of enjoying it? Do you want to try my chili crisp?”In Chili Crisp, James presents recipes like:* Kimchi Quesadilla with Chili Crisp* Savory Morning Oats with Jammy Eggs and Pork Floss* Chili Crisp Bucatini Carbonara* Beef Short Ribs Ragu* Fiery Spaghetti and Meatballs* Chili Crisp Biscuits with Honey-Butter Glaze* Chili Crisp Ice Cream Two Ways* And more!We’ve got a great chat with James—and of course, we put him to the test in our signature culinary game! Find this episode anywhere you podcast.Chili Crisp: 50+ Recipes to Satisfy Your Spicy, Crunchy, Garlicky Cravings by James ParkIf you already love chili crisp, this book is for you. If you're new to it, this book is for you. With more than 50 recipes, Chili Crisp is here for you, wherever you are on your spicy life journey.Packed with chili crisp inspiration to take your love of this spicy ingredient to the next level, Chili Crisp provides dozens of no-recipe recipes (like potato chips and chili crisp, a match made in snack heaven) and a handy build-your-own chili crisp formula to inspire you to create your very own version. Soon all your family and friends will be clamoring for a jar. This is a public episode. If you'd like to discuss this with other subscribers or get access to bonus episodes, visit saltandspine.substack.com/subscribe