EP271: Lost in Menswear - Japanese Engineering Menswear

What makes Japanese Engineering menswear so interesting?In the series of 10 minutes conversation of Lost in Menswear which is part of "menSwear by a Woman" podcast,  I explore the idea of “engineering menswear in Japan” clothing designed not simply to look good, but to work. From fabrics, construction to pockets, movement, fit and functionality, I look at the thought that goes into the garment and the small details that can completely change the way we experience what we wear.I take a closer look at  the brand Norbit by Hiroshi Nozawa, a brand that perfectly captures this relationship between utility, outdoor influences, modern design and everyday wearability. It’s clothing where functionality isn't an afterthought , it’s part of the design from the very beginning.But this episode isn't just about technical clothing, it's about the idea that the best menswear can be quietly functional. A garment doesn't need to be covered in pockets, straps or technical features to be considered. Sometimes, the most thoughtfully engineered piece is also the simplest looking.Japanese designers have been exploring this relationship between function and aesthetics for years, encouraging us to look beyond the label and ask different questions:Why is it cut like that? Why that fabric? Why is that pocket there? Why does it move the way it does? This episode is about appreciating the thought behind clothing  and how Japanese engineering menswear has helped shape the way we think about functionality, construction and design. Because great menswear isn't just about looking good. It's about making something that works.What do you think about Japanese engineering menswear? Is functionality becoming more important to you, or do you prefer menswear that focuses purely on aesthetics?Join the conversation and let me know your thoughts. Lost in Menswear to be not just me talking about menswear, but starting conversation about it. And if there's something you think we've lost, forgotten, or simply don't talk about anymore do please get intouch but remember it's has to be part of menswear.

Today’s guest is the wonderfully charismatic Jama Elmi, who brings his own unique style, energy and personality to the podcast.From the moment he walks in, Jama’s colourful suits demand attention, but more than that, they reflect the confidence, comfort and individuality he carries with him. He isn’t afraid to stand out, and that same openness comes through in the conversation.In this episode, we get to know the man behind the suits, hear his story, explore his experiences and discover what makes Jama unapologetically himself. A conversation full of personality, style, honesty and plenty of colour.

Lately, I’ve been thinking about this question more and more especially after seeing J.Press’s Autumn/Winter collection and the way American menswear brands seem to look back at the history of British menswear for inspiration. There’s something fascinating about the way they reinterpret it: the fabrics, silhouettes, traditions, country clothing, tailoring and all those little details that once felt completely natural to British menswear. They seem to be digging through past, finding things we’ve forgotten, and putting their own spin on them. But also doing it well! And why does it sometimes feel like Americans are more interested in preserving and celebrating certain parts of British style than we are ourselves? That’s the starting point for Lost in Menswear. Because that's what I'd like Lost in Menswear to be not just me talking about menswear, but starting conversation about it. And if there's something you think we've lost, forgotten, or simply don't talk about anymore do please get intouch but remember it's has to be part of menswear.And for the first episode, I’m asking:Do Americans understand British Style Better Than Us Brits?Leave your comments below can't wait to hear what you have to say and have conversation with you!

Today’s episode takes us into the world of a brand that is making real waves in menswear and outdoor clothing. I’m joined by Andrew Todd as known as Todd, Head Designer at Finisterre, a brand born in Cornwall with the ocean at the heart of everything it does. We talk about Todd's journey into design, how his career developed, and what ultimately brought him to Finisterre. We explore how the environment, the ocean and the Cornish way of life have shaped the brand’s identity, and how those influences translate into the clothing they create. This is one of the most, heartfelt conversations I’ve had. Todd opens up about his approach to menswear, the journey that has brought him to where he is today, and what the future could hold for Finisterre and himself. There’s something beautifully connected, about the way Todd describes design, nature and the ocean almost like an ecosystem where everything has its place and works together. A conversation about menswear, creativity, purpose, the ocean and building something that feels truly connected to where it comes from. I hope you enjoy this one as much as I did.

This might be the shortest episode I’ve ever done about menswear. Lately, I’ve been feeling a little lost when it comes to menswear. I’m not entirely sure why, but it seems to happen every summer. Sometimes you just reach a point where something you’ve spent so much time thinking about suddenly feels a little unfamiliar. But maybe feeling lost isn’t necessarily a bad thing. It gives you the chance to step back, look at things from different angles, question what you thought you knew, and perhaps discover something, new along the way. I know I’ll find my way back to menswear but for now, I’m embracing the feeling of being a little lost. A short, and my honest reflection on menswear in the summer and finding your way back to something you always admired and still do. Would love to hear comments and thoughts if you ever felt lost in menswear? you can leave your comment below.

Today’s episode is with Tom Hoy, a name that will be familiar to anyone who has spent time exploring the world of Ivy and classic menswear. Tom has built a reputation for his knowledge, his eye for style, and his deep appreciation of the culture that surrounds Ivy. In this conversation, we found plenty of common ground from Miles Davis and jazz to Blue Note Records, Ivy, and the many characters, sounds and influences that helped shape one of the most iconic periods in menswear. Tom takes us back to his early days in menswear and talks about how his interest in Ivy developed over the years. We also discuss how that passion has evolved into what he does today, from his Substack and Instagram presence to his own podcast called Easy on The Ivy. This is a conversation about much more than clothes, it's about music, culture, taste, history and the people who continue to keep the spirit of Ivy alive.A great conversation with, someone who clearly understands that style is about far more than what you wear.

In this episode, we sit down with Lewis Wilson, founder of Cafe Mountain to talk about his journey through menswear, the influences that shaped him, and how he discovered what he really wanted to create. Lewis reflects on the huge influence of menswear icon Nigel Cabourn, whose guidance and experience helped Lewis understand the direction he wanted to take within the industry. That journey eventually led him to create Cafe Mountain in 2021, an outdoor-inspired brand built around a sense of calm, simplicity and the feeling of being in the mountains.Since then, Lewis hasn’t looked back. Cafe Mountain has quietly started to make its own noise within menswear, growing organically while staying true to its identity. Lewis also opens up about the realities of running a brand, from the challenges and pressures to the excitement of seeing his ideas become a reality. And with the opening of Cafe Mountain’s first store in Newcastle, a major milestone for the brand, it feels like Lewis is only just beginning his climb. As Cafe Mountain continues to rise, Lewis seems to have found exactly where he belongs in menswear, and he knows how to climb the mountain.Listen now to hear Lewis Wilson’s story, the influence of Nigel Cabourn, and the journey behind Cafe Mountain.

I’ve been wanting to bring guests from the manufacturing side of this industry onto the podcast for a long time, and I’m so excited that it’s finally happening. I’m hoping this is just the beginning with many more conversations like this to come.In today’s episode I’m joined by two incredible co-founders, Diana and Joshua, the founders of Maes London. Coming from different parts of the world and bringing together a team that truly understands manufacturing, structure, and the heart of this industry, they share a perspective that is so important because without manufacturing this industry simply wouldn’t exist. Diana and Joshua talk about how they started their journey, what brought them together and how, their mindset from the very beginning was aligned. For them teamwork has been at the centre of everything. Creating a team where everyone works together, understands the same vision, and is moving in the same direction has played a huge part in building their business.This episode is a conversation about manufacturing, teamwork, vision, and the people behind the scenes who help bring an entire industry to life. I’m so excited to finally have this conversation and I hope you enjoy getting to know Diana and Joshua and hearing their story as much as I did.

In today's episode, I'm joined by Bhaavya, the founder of Iro Iro, a brand that beautifully bridges traditional craftsmanship, with contemporary fashion. I first came acrossIro Iro during London Craft Week, through the Friday Sari Project, where a group of South Asian designers collections, where they showcased how talented craftsmans work is still available in India that are huge part of individual brands in their own unique way. What immediately stood out to me was how Iro Iro reimagines heritage craftsmanship for the modern wardrobe. The collection draws inspiration from menswear and Bhaavya adapts those elements into womenswear a distinctive design approach where I recognised immediately and could see menswear. In our conversation, Bhaavya shares how her journey began and the vision that drives Iro Iro. She talks about challenging conventional fashion industry practices, by building a brand showing it's transparency, sustainability, and meaningful. Rather than simply working with artisans, Bhaavya sees them as an extension of the Iro Iro family, where every craftsperson, plays an essential role in the brand's growth and success. We also explore the importance of preserving traditional craftsmanship, the value of, knowing the story behind every garment, and how transparency throughout the design and production process helps create a deeper connection, between the product and the customer. If you're passionate about conscious fashion, artisan craftsmanship, and the future of sustainable design, this is an episode you won't want to miss.

Today’s episode features Christoph Ritter, founder of Critter London, who shares his experience of studying fashion, leaving Central Saint Martins, and building his own path within luxury womenswear. Although this podcast has traditionally focused on menswear, this conversation explores a topic that affects the entire fashion industry: the reality of fashion education and what happens after graduation. Christoph and I discuss the financial pressures students face when studying fashion, the rising costs involved in completing a degree, and the reality of graduating with significant debt while trying to establish a career in one of the most competitive industries in the world. The biggest question is not only about the cost of studying fashion it is what support graduates receive once they leave university. How does the education system help students transition into the industry? Are universities providing enough guidance, opportunities and connections to help graduates build sustainable careers? Or is the reality that once the university doors close, each graduate is left to navigate the industry alone to create their own opportunities, build their own networks and find their own place within fashion? This episode is a wider conversation about the future of fashion education, the relationship between institutions and graduates, and whether the current system is truly preparing the next generation of creatives.