Mike Jeffries (The Abercrombie CEO)

Subscribe to Extra Bad Gays on Apple Podcasts or Patreon to support our work, get monthly bonus episodes, and join our community of listeners, including our upcoming quarterly Bad Gays Book Club. Meet the cross-dressing heir to one of Imperial Russia's largest fortunes: a dissolute, champagne-quaffing demon twink who decorated palaces with his nobleman boyfriend before that boyfriend tried desperately to sabotage his marriage to one of Russia's greatest beauties. But trouble was afoot: revolution was brewing, and the personal and sexual charisma of the infamous Rasputin captivated the court. And revolution was brewing in Russia... ----more---- For more on Prince Felix Yusupov, read the sources we used to research this episode: Lost Splendor, by Prince Felix Yusupov The man who killed Rasputin : Prince Felix Youssoupov and the murder that helped bring down the Russian Empire, by Greg King https://dirtysexyhistory.com/2016/12/01/russias-greatest-love-machine-sex-and-rasputin/  Our intro music is Arpeggia Colorix by Yann Terrien, downloaded from WFMU's Free Music Archive and distributed under a Creative Commons Attribution-ShareAlike License. Our outro music is by DJ Michaeloswell Graphicsdesigner. 

Subscribe to Extra Bad Gays on Apple Podcasts or Patreon to support our work, get monthly bonus episodes, and join our community of listeners, including our upcoming quarterly Bad Gays Book Club. We start our brand-new season with the story of Mike Jeffries, the Abercrombie & Fitch CEO who turned a bankrupt old-school outdoors brand into a late-90s/early-00s temple of exclusionary “cool."  Surely you remember the ads, or maybe you remember the stores: the pumping music, the blasts of cologne that made your throat close up, the shutters across the front of the store, as if this little corner of a suburban shopping mall was actually an exclusive nightclub.  Or maybe you remember the Bruce Weber-shot soft-porn catalogue, which once featured an essay by (yes! no!) Slavoj Zizek.  Clothes for homophobic bullies were made in marketed from a self-hating gay sensibility: and the story of Mike Jeffries might be the single solitary key to understanding how the aesthetics of the closet became mainstream marketing, how a gay aesthetic was used to sell homophobic masculinity and how that tension crushed employees and turned its visionary into a monster now credibly accused of sexual assault and harassment. ----more---- For more on Mike Jeffries, read the sources we used to research this episode: Netflix: White Hot - The Rise and Fall of Abercrombie and Fitch BBC: World of Secrets - The Abercrombie Guys https://www.netflix.com/tudum/articles/an-oral-history-of-abercrombie-and-fitch   https://www.newyorker.com/culture/culture-desk/the-story-behind-fitch-the-homeless   https://www.theguardian.com/fashion/2012/oct/18/abercrombie-fitch-boss-extraordinary-male-model-demands   https://wwd.com/fashion-news/fashion-scoops/feature/fashion-photographer-bruce-weber-and-male-models-end-legal-battles-1234907151/   https://www.bbc.com/news/articles/ce8vmy56yero   https://www.huffpost.com/entry/abercrombie-fitch-ceo-corporate-jet-rulebook_n_1980960   https://www.salon.com/2006/01/24/jeffries/   https://www.advocate.com/crime/abercrombie-fitch-mike-jeffries-dementia   https://www.theguardian.com/global/2024/sep/14/i-constantly-was-saying-no-ex-abercrombie-fitch-boss-accused-of-abuse-at-global-sex-events   https://www.cnbc.com/2024/10/22/former-abercrombie-ceo-mike-jeffries-arrested-in-sex-trafficking-case.html\   https://www.businessinsider.com/michael-jeffries-partner-is-too-involved-2013-5   https://www.theguardian.com/us-news/2023/oct/02/former-abercrombie-fitch-ceo-accused-of-exploiting-young-men-for-sex   https://www.dazeddigital.com/fashion/article/55905/1/abercrombie-fitch-netflix-documentary-sexual-exploitation-racism-bruce-weber   https://www.justice.gov/usao-edny/pr/former-ceo-abercrombie-fitch-and-two-other-individuals-charged-sex-trafficking-and   https://archive.ph/JUDyD   https://www.thecut.com/2014/02/why-abercrombie-is-losing-its-shirt.html#   https://monoskop.org/images/d/db/A_and_F_Quarterly_Back_to_School_2003_The_Sex_Ed_Issue.pdf   https://www.complex.com/style/a/emilyl/revisiting-absurd-critical-theory-abercrombies-2003-back-school-catalog   https://www.theguardian.com/film/2022/apr/19/abercrombie-fitch-netflix-documentary-fashion-discrimination   https://archive.ph/HdrvF   https://archive.ph/W0YZo   https://archive.ph/pAoOR   https://www.classaction.org/media/abercrombie-indictment.pdf   https://www.theguardian.com/business/interactive/2012/oct/19/abercrombie-fitch-aircraft-standards-manual?INTCMP=ILCNETTXT3487   https://www.wsj.com/articles/SB876176611622798500   https://www.nytimes.com/2018/01/13/style/mario-testino-bruce-weber-harassment.html   https://web.archive.org/web/20170614225056/https://www.bloomberg.com/news/features/2015-01-22/the-aging-of-abercrombie-fitch-i58ltcqx Our intro music is Arpeggia Colorix by Yann Terrien, downloaded from WFMU's Free Music Archive and distributed under a Creative Commons Attribution-ShareAlike License. Our outro music is by DJ Michaeloswell Graphicsdesigner. Michael Oswell is the voice of Slavoj Zizek.

Happy pride! Gather around, we've got a story to tell! For Stonewall weekend, a special treat: writer, critic, and journalist Cameron Cook joins Ben to talk about the one and only Liza through the stories of the bad (and good) gays in her life, from her father Vincente Minnelli to her first husband Peter Allen to her diabolical fourth husband David Gest. Liza learned on her (and our) mother Judy Garland's knee how to survive by appealing to gay guys. Gay guys used Judy, then Liza to self-fashion. None of it is particularly healthy, and yet we love it so. Our main source for this episode was Liza's new memoir, Kids, Wait Til You Hear This!, and Cameron's newsletter Cooked, with monthly essays and regular music playlists for pop culture obsessives, can be found here. Support our work by subscribing to Extra Bad Gays on Patreon or Apple, and get an extra monthly episode!

The final episode of our saga: Mandelson's fall from grace in the aftermath of Keir Starmer's election first as leader of the Labour Party and then as one of Britain's most rapidly unpopular Prime Ministers. Can't get enough Mandelson? Subscribe now to Extra Bad Gays to hear our subscriber-only followup discussion with James Butler of the LRB and Juliet Jacques of Suite 212. Mandelson knows too much, understands too much, to be left out of the equation. It’s because he’s sly and underhanded and deceitful that people need him, because it’s a political system that works on those qualities. This is court politics; it’s what Mandelson is a master of, it’s what Epstein was a master of, it’s what Trump is a master of: the informal power of relationships. ----more---- SOURCES: Mandelson and the making of New Labour, Donald Macintyre Mandy: The Unauthorised Biography of Peter Mandelson, Paul Routledge Outrageous! The Story of Section 28 and Britain's Battle for LGBT Education, Paul Baker Tory Pride and Prejudice: The Conservative Party and homosexual law reform, Michael McManus The Rivals : the intimate story of a political marriage, James Naughtie Bloody Nasty People, Daniel Trilling Clampdown: Pop-Cultural wars on class and Gender, Rhian E. Jones 1997: The Future That Never Happened, Richard Power Sayeed Authentocrats: Culture, Politics and the New Seriousness, Joe Kennedy https://www.parliament.uk/business/lords/house-of-lords-podcast/lord-mandelson-lord-speakers-corner/ https://newhistories.sites.sheffield.ac.uk/volumes/2011-12/volume-3/issue-7-open-theme/the-long-road-to-repeal-the-labour-party-and-section-28 https://www.theguardian.com/politics/2001/jan/25/mandelson.labour6 https://ntouk.wordpress.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/11/wilsons-white-heat-of-technology-speech.pdf https://www.independent.co.uk/arts-entertainment/media-the-dirty-world-of-mr-punch-1187016.html#:~:text=Last%20week%20an%20internationally%20famous,then%2Downers%2C%20United%20Newspapers. https://jennifrazer.com/mandelson-judaism-lord-levy-jc-dad/ https://johnmajorarchive.org.uk/1993/10/08/mr-majors-speech-to-1993-conservative-party-conference-8-october-1993/ https://www.parliament.uk/business/lords/house-of-lords-podcast/lord-mandelson-lord-speakers-corner/ https://newhistories.sites.sheffield.ac.uk/volumes/2011-12/volume-3/issue-7-open-theme/the-long-road-to-repeal-the-labour-party-and-section-28 https://www.newsweek.com/one-bonk-and-youre-out-181768 https://www.theguardian.com/politics/2001/jan/25/mandelson.labour6 https://www.theguardian.com/politics/2008/oct/03/mandelson.labour2 https://www.thepinknews.com/2020/12/23/peter-mandelson-boris-johnson-bum-boys-about-homophobic-attack/ https://petertatchell.net/lgbt_rights/outing/catalyst/ https://www.ipsos.com/en-uk/public-attitudes-section-28 https://www.gryklaw.com/https-www-gryklaw-com-lgbt-history-month-coming-of-age-same-sex-relationship-immigration-rights/ https://www.theguardian.com/century/1990-1999/Story/0,,112756,00.html https://www.private-eye.co.uk/pictures/special_reports/justice-lost-in-the-post.pdf https://www.pbs.org/newshour/nation/see-epsteins-full-birthday-book-with-alleged-personal-messages-from-trump-clinton-and-others https://www.bbc.com/news/articles/cdr6yjzkvx6o http://news.bbc.co.uk/2/hi/uk_news/northern_ireland/630399.stm https://www.theguardian.com/uk/1999/nov/17/northernireland.guardianleaders https://www.bbc.com/news/business-68079300 https://www.thetimes.com/uk/politics/article/peter-mandelson-why-its-taken-me-27-years-to-marry-the-love-of-my-life-3gx8cfgs5 https://www.stonewall.org.uk/resources/lgbtq-hubs/trans-hub/gender-recognition-act-2004 https://www.economist.com/briefing/2007/05/10/the-great-performer-leaves-the-stage https://www.tuc.org.uk/sites/default/files/extras/lgbt09.pdf https://www.theguardian.com/politics/2008/oct/13/mandelson-lords https://www.theguardian.com/politics/2008/oct/13/mandelson-gayrights https://www.theguardian.com/travel/2008/oct/25/corfu-rothschild-russia-osborne-travel https://www.politico.eu/article/mandelson-backed-by-commission/ https://www.theguardian.com/us-news/2017/mar/22/former-trump-campaign-chief-paul-manafort-offered-help-putin-russia http://www.timesonline.co.uk/tol/news/world/europe/article384041.ece https://www.scotsman.com/news/italian-shoe-magnate-steps-forward-to-sponsor-spruce-up-for-colosseum-1693900 https://www.theguardian.com/business/2022/oct/05/over-330000-excess-deaths-in-great-britain-linked-to-austerity-finds-study https://www.theguardian.com/politics/2007/nov/29/politicalcolumnists.gordonbrown https://www.independent.co.uk/news/uk/home-news/benefits-dwp-cuts-conservatives-austerity-cap-b2956620.html https://inews.co.uk/news/politics/labour/peter-mandelson-firm-lobbies-tiktok-shell-water-labour-3409771 https://www.newstatesman.com/politics/2012/03/labour-party-within-progress https://labourlist.org/2013/06/falkirk-clp-placed-in-special-measures-over-selection-allegations/ https://labourlist.org/2017/02/mandelson-i-am-working-every-day-to-bring-down-corbyn/ https://www.theguardian.com/politics/2026/apr/27/mandelson-and-mcsweeney-a-partnership-forged-on-winning-and-crushing-the-labour-left https://inews.co.uk/news/politics/keir-starmer-labour-leadership-election-abolish-tuition-fees-nationalisation-396843 https://www.thetimes.com/uk/politics/article/keir-starmers-not-driving-the-train-confessions-of-his-inner-circle-mq2kbg39x https://www.theguardian.com/politics/2026/may/14/who-is-josh-simons-labour-mp-andy-burnham https://www.theguardian.com/politics/2026/feb/06/labour-thinktank-close-to-morgan-mcsweeney-allegedly-paid-firm-to-investigate-journalists https://www.theguardian.com/politics/2026/apr/27/mandelson-and-mcsweeney-a-partnership-forged-on-winning-and-crushing-the-labour-left https://www.theguardian.com/politics/2026/feb/20/labour-minister-falsely-linked-journalists-to-pro-kremlin-network-in-emails-to-gchq https://www.theguardian.com/commentisfree/2021/sep/28/keir-starmer-leadership-labour-leader-left https://www.theguardian.com/politics/2024/dec/20/appointment-peter-mandelson-new-uk-ambassador-to-us-divides-labour-mps https://archive.progressivebritain.org/2013/06/27/no-more-falkirks/ peterchrome-extension://oemmndcbldboiebfnladdacbdfmadadm/https://assets.publishing.service.gov.uk/media/69b13135cdd628b29e3495f8/V1_FINAL.pdf https://www.documentcloud.org/documents/26086390-jeffey-epstein-50th-birthday-book/ https://www.theguardian.com/politics/2026/apr/16/revealed-mandelson-failed-vetting-but-foreign-office-overruled-decision https://www.ft.com/content/fdf7afe9-9ad3-4325-8843-f590dcdd7e57?syn-25a6b1a6=1 https://www.nytimes.com/2026/02/10/world/europe/ties-peter-mandelson-jeffrey-epstein.html?smid=nytcore-ios-share https://www.bbc.com/news/articles/cn82elvzpz7o https://www.bbc.com/news/articles/cd9el4dw0z3o https://archive.ph/uWXFn https://www.bbc.com/news/articles/crrjd2kxw2lo https://www.justice.gov/epstein/files/DataSet%209/EFTA00764113.pdf https://www.independent.co.uk/news/uk/politics/peter-mandelson-epstein-swear-ambassador-trump-b2693376.html https://www.theguardian.com/politics/2026/feb/04/starmer-confirms-he-knew-mandelson-kept-epstein-ties-after-prison-term https://www.theguardian.com/politics/2026/jan/11/peter-mandelson-declines-to-apologise-for-association-with-jeffrey-epstein https://www.independent.co.uk/news/uk/home-news/jeffrey-epstein-peter-mandelson-emails-b2914283.html https://www.nytimes.com/2026/02/10/world/europe/ties-peter-mandelson-jeffrey-epstein.html https://www.theguardian.com/politics/2026/feb/04/starmer-confirms-he-knew-mandelson-kept-epstein-ties-after-prison-term https://www.theguardian.com/politics/2026/feb/05/how-epstein-scandal-shaken-british-government-peter-mandelson https://www.theguardian.com/politics/2026/feb/06/peter-mandelson-election-labour-insiders https://www.theguardian.com/politics/2026/apr/20/peter-mandelson-a-timeline-of-his-appointment-as-uk-ambassadorto-the-us https://www.bbc.com/news/articles/czx26yz7kxzo https://www.ft.com/content/fdf7afe9-9ad3-4325-8843-f590dcdd7e57?syn-25a6b1a6=1

Today we are reaching the next to last chapter––for now!––of the Mandelson story. Listen to the sixth and final episode now by subscribing to Extra Bad Gays on Patreon. As we are recording this, on 18th May 2026, the Prime Minister, Keir Starmer, is facing a potential leadership challenge and a collapse in legitimacy following two major crises, both of these the responsibility of Peter Mandelson; one, directly, the other a consequence of the changes of which Mandelson has been the driving force of for almost 40 years. The first crisis is Starmer’s appointment of Mandelson as Ambassador to the United States, despite his having failed a Foreign Office vetting procedure, and the fallout of that once Mandelson was outed as a close long-term friend of the child sex trafficker Jeffrey Epstein, to whom it’s alleged he passed sensitive government and financial information while in power. The other is the complete decimation of Labour in the recent local elections, and in elections for the Welsh and Scottish devolved assemblies, which saw the party lose close to 1500 local council seats and, in Wales, lose a century-long winning streak as the country’s largest party. In today’s episode we’ll talk about Mandelson’s journey from MP to peer to Ambassador, and we’ll also discuss how his enormous influence over that time, usually behind the scenes, has led to a Labour Party and indeed the two party system itself on the edge of total collapse.  

Peter Mandelson has been the definitive comeback kid of British politics, and it’s impossible to ever rule out his return. Listen to Episode Five right now and get Extra Bad Gays every month by subscribing on Patreon! Today, we will learn why he got that reputation as we look at Mandelson in power. The Millennium Dome, a Y2K fever dream! His public outing! A wider cultural shift in attitudes towards gay men, one which contributed to the idea that poofs were everywhere at the top of society! Resignations, and returns!    

This week, on Mandelson: A Homosexual History, we cover the 1992 UK election and the birth of New Labour. Subscribe on Patreon to support our work and stay a week ahead on this miniseries! If Huw's Margaret Thatcher wasn't enough to turn your stomach, try his John Major on for size. Neil Kinnock loses the 1992 election. John Smith becomes leader of the Labour Party, flanked by two feuding up-and-coming reformers named Gordon Brown and Tony Blair. Peter Mandelson buys a lovely home in Notting Hill with questionable financing, and sets himself to defeating Clause IV once and for all. The exciting but fundamentally reactionary Cool Britannia cultural moment helps us understand how tentative New Labour were about rocking the cultural boat. Their victory in 1997 was more about stasis than change.  

Subscribe on Patreon to hear Episode Three now, get our monthly Extra Bad Gays episodes, and stay a week ahead on the miniseries. Last week we looked at Mandelson’s early years, and his move from a flirtation with Marxism to being firmly on the right of the Labour Party. We also discussed the left-right split in the Labour Party, and how, in the 1980s, that became a full blown civil war. This week, it's time for the 1987 General Election, and for the paranoid homophobia of late-Eighties Britain: section 28, sleaze, AIDS panic, and tabloid hell.

Subscribe to Extra Bad Gays on Apple Podcasts or Patreon to hear Episode Two of Mandelson: A Homosexual History now, and to stay a week ahead as the miniseries continues. They call him the Prince of Darkness. Peter Mandelson's decades-long political career is a skeleton key to everything that's gone wrong in Western politics in the last forty years. He's a spin doctor, a sometime minister, and a networker whose downfall through the Epstein files now threatens the survival of the British government. This miniseries examines his gay life and times, tracing the collapse of mass politics, the emergence of neoliberalism, and the political history of homosexuality in the UK, from decriminalisation to Section 28, from Sleaze to Gay Marriage. A Faustian story, Mandelson: A Homosexual History plays out on a world-historical scale, but at its heart is driven by the failures and compromises of greed and lust. In Episode One, we trace the emergence of Mandleson’s career in the Labour Party, and the formation of the networks of power that would help hollow out British social democracy in the years of Thatcher and Blair. 

Subscribe to Extra Bad Gays on Apple Podcasts or Patreon to support our work, get monthly bonus episodes, and join our community of listeners!   Daniel Dunglas Home always knew he wasn't like the other boys. Not because he was gay, but because, while they were out on the sports field playing rugby, he was communicating with the dead. Despite being a huge celebrity in Victorian England, today Home is almost unknown. In this special episode, academic and novelist Avery Curran talks to Huw about one of the most significant mediums of 19th century Spiritualism, and what his life and reputation can tell us about gender and sexuality in high society at the time. ----more---- SOURCES:   Heyday of a Wizard - Jean Burton   The First Psychic - Peter Lamont   Experiences in Spiritualism with DD Home - Viscount Adare   ‘Very hot indeed’: Intimacy between men in Experiences in Spiritualism with Mr. D. D. Home  - Avery Curran, Journal of Victorian Culture   Our intro music is Arpeggia Colorix by Yann Terrien, downloaded from WFMU's Free Music Archive and distributed under a Creative Commons Attribution-ShareAlike License. Our outro music is by DJ Michaeloswell Graphicsdesigner.