#31 : 250 Years of Louis Roederer with Frédéric Rouzaud, President and CEO

Today I’m joined by Séverine Frerson, Chef de Caves at Perrier-Jouët who is the most important custodian of a style that has been shaped by Chardonnay, florality and finesse for more than two centuries.Séverine became just the eighth Cellar Master in Perrier-Jouët’s history when she succeeded Hervé Deschamps, taking responsibility for a House with an extraordinarily distinctive identity. Perrier-Jouët is often described through the language of flowers, but behind that apparent delicacy is something far more complex: the relationship between aroma and texture, the chalk of the Côte des Blancs, the importance of Chardonnay, and an increasingly precise understanding of the vineyards themselves.In this conversation, I wanted to go beyond simply describing Perrier-Jouët as “floral” and understand what that word actually means to Séverine as a winemaker. We explore the botanical spectrum she looks for in the wines, how texture contributes to the House style, and why places such as Cramant remain so important to its identity.We also talk about Belle Époque, the challenges of preserving freshness as Champagne becomes warmer, Perrier-Jouët’s evolving approach to sustainability and biodiversity, and importantly, the 2026 harvest - what Séverine saw in the vineyards and what this unusual growing season mightultimately reveal in the wines.I hope you enjoy today’s discussion.

Today we're looking at the 2026 harvest through two quite different, but deeply interconnected, perspectives: the vineyard and the cellar.My guests are David Chatillon and Maxime Toubart, two men who sit at the centre of some of the most important decisions affecting Champagne today. David Chatillon is President of the Union des Maisons de Champagne, or UMC, the organisation representing Champagne's Houses. He knows the organisation particularly well, having served as its Director General from 2007 before becoming President in 2022, and being re-elected in 2025.  Maxime Toubart is a Champagne winegrower and President of the Syndicat Général des Vignerons de la Champagne, or SGV, which represents the interests of Champagne's growers. A longstanding advocate for the vineyard, Maxime was re-elected President of the SGV in March 2026 at a particularly interesting moment for the region, as Champagne confronts changing global demand alongside increasingly complex climatic conditions. Together, David and Maxime also serve as co-presidents of the Comité Champagne, representing the two sides of Champagne's interprofessional structure: the Maisons and the vignerons. It's a relationship that becomes particularly important at harvest, when decisions around yields, reserves and the longer-term needs of the market have consequences right across the appellation. So today, we're going to unpack the 2026 harvest: what actually happened in the vineyards, why its quality may be considerably more exciting than some early commentary suggested, how Champagne arrives at a commercial yield, and perhaps most importantly, what the market is telling Champagne about how much wine it actually needs to produce.About your host:Sara Underdown is a leading and trusted voice for champagne in Australia. In 2018 she founded VINE & BUBBLE, an online champagne publication, luxury events and travel company.Sara is a Dame Chevalier of L’Ordre des Côteaux de Champagne and has been recognised through the prestigious Vin de Champagne Awards, the Louis Roederer International Wine Writers’ Awards and the Born Digital Wine Awards. In addition to writing for VINE & BUBBLE, she writes regularly for numerous drinks publications, magazines and newspapers. Sara is also the official Star Wine List Ambassador for the Champagne region.In 2023, Sara created the VINE & BUBBLE Podcast. It’s all about the people, the region, the history and - of course - the wine. She travels to Champagne regularly, talking with the Cellar Masters, industry representatives and everyone in between to connect wine lovers with the story behind the finest bubbles of all. You can listen anytime on Apple Podcast or Spotify.VINE & BUBBLE brings together a network of Australian wine journalists, sommeliers, educators and industry representatives as regular contributors. They are knowledgeable and extremely passionate about the subject of our passion – champagne. As a team of champagne lovers and communicators, we are thrilled to share our united passion with wine-loving audiences.Connect with Sara: [email protected] or via LinkedIn

Before we begin today’s conversation, I’d like to introducemy next guest, Edwige Régnier, Director of the Ordre des Coteaux de Champagne.The Ordre occupies a fascinating and rather unique place inthe world of Champagne. With origins stretching back to the 17th century, it is the historic fraternity dedicated to celebrating and promoting the wines, heritage and culture of Champagne. Today, it brings together producers, wine professionals, collectors and passionate ambassadors through an international network extending well beyond France.At the heart of the Ordre are its Chapitres — ceremonial gatherings where new members are inducted and recognised for their commitment to Champagne. Rich in tradition and symbolism, these occasions are also very much about something more contemporary: building a global communityaround Champagne and ensuring its culture, knowledge and values continue to be shared from one generation to the next.Edwige has been leading this organisation since 2021. Herown story is distinctly international. The daughter of a diplomat, Edwige spent part of her early life abroad, developing an appreciation for different cultures while inheriting from her mother a deep connection to Frenchgastronomy, wine and the art of living. Champagne has now been her adopted home for some twenty-five years.Her career has brought together wine, gastronomy, educationand cross-cultural exchange including spending time in the United States before fifteen years with Le Cordon Bleu Paris.Edwige is also a trained sommelier, graduating top of herclass and in 2024 she was awarded the title of Maître Sommelier by the Union de la Sommellerie Française.Today, we’re going to explore the remarkable history of theOrdre.

Before we begin today’s conversation, I’d like to introducemy next guest, Edwige Régnier, Director of the Ordre des Coteaux de Champagne.The Ordre occupies a fascinating and rather unique place inthe world of Champagne. With origins stretching back to the seventeenth century, it is the historic fraternity dedicated to celebrating and promoting the wines, heritage and culture of Champagne. Today, it brings together producers, wine professionals, collectors and passionate ambassadors through an international network extending well beyond France.At the heart of the Ordre are its Chapitres — ceremonial gatherings where new members are inducted and recognised for their commitment to Champagne. Rich in tradition and symbolism, these occasions are also very much about something more contemporary: building a global communityaround Champagne and ensuring its culture, knowledge and values continue to be shared from one generation to the next.Edwige has been leading this organisation since 2021. Herown story is distinctly international. The daughter of a diplomat, Edwige spent part of her early life abroad, developing an appreciation for different cultures while inheriting from her mother a deep connection to Frenchgastronomy, wine and the art of living. Champagne has now been her adopted home for some twenty-five years.Her career has brought together wine, gastronomy, educationand cross-cultural exchange including spending time in the United States before fifteen years with Le Cordon Bleu Paris.Edwige is also a trained sommelier, graduating top of herclass and in 2024 she was awarded the title of Maître Sommelier by the Union de la Sommellerie Française.Today, we’re going to explore the remarkable history of theOrdre.

Before we dive into today’s conversation, I’d like tointroduce my next guest, Maud Rabin.Maud is Director of Rare Champagne, one of Champagne’s most distinctive and exclusive maisons.The story of Rare begins in 1785, when a special cuvée wascreated for Marie Antoinette and the French royal court. That spirit of rarity and refinement continues to shape the maison today.Produced only in exceptional vintages, Rare Champagne isunapologetically different. While it shares its historical roots with Piper-Heidsieck, Rare has forged an identity entirely its own, defined by an uncompromising vintage philosophy and a signature style that is immediately recognisable.There’s remarkable freshness and longevity, but also layersof texture and a fascinating aromatic profile that can reveal exotic and tropical fruits alongside delicate florals, salinity and chalky minerality.These are Champagnes made not simply to impress on release, but to evolve beautifully over decades.In her role, Maud takes the story of Rare Champagne aroundthe world, sharing a philosophy built around patience, precision and, above all, the extraordinary.

Few people have changed the way we experience champagne as profoundly as Philippe Jamesse. A world-renowned sommelier and one of the foremost authorities on champagne service, Philippe has spent decades challenging convention, proving that the right glass doesn't simply hold champagne—it transforms it.His collaboration with Lehmann has produced some of the most iconic Champagne glasses in the world, including the Grand Champagne and Synergie ranges. These glasses have become the choice of leading Champagne Houses, sommeliers and collectors who believe every detail matters.In this episode, we take a deep dive into the philosophy behind these remarkable designs. We explore why shape, balance and craftsmanship influence the aromas, texture and expression of Champagne, the differences between handmade and machine-made glassware, and how Philippe has redefined what it means to experience one of the world's greatest wines.Whether you're a seasoned collector or simply love Champagne, this conversation will forever change the way you look at the glass in your hand.I hope you enjoy my conversation with Philippe Jamesse.

In this special episode of the VINE & BUBBLE Podcast, Sara Underdown sits down with Frédéric Rouzaud, President and CEO of Maison Louis Roederer, during the house’s extraordinary 250th anniversary celebrations. Together, they explore family ownership, the creation and evolution of Cristal, the importance of vineyard ownership, and why time remains one of Champagne’s greatest luxuries.

Today I'm delighted to be joined by one of Champagne's most progressive and thought-provoking growers, Cédric Moussé of Champagne Moussé.Based in the Vallée de la Marne village of Cuisles, Cédric represents the twelfth generation of his family's estate, but he has become known for doing things very differently. While many producers have spent decades trying to elevate Meunier from a supporting grape status to a serious contender, Cédric has quietly demonstrated just how profound it can be when matched with exceptional terroir and meticulous viticulture.His philosophy extends well beyond the grape variety itself. Cédric believes that great champagne begins with living soils and healthy ecosystems. His vineyards are managed organically, he has introduced geothermal energy, solar power, autonomous vineyard robots and even grazing animals to regenerate biodiversity, always with one goal in mind: producing wines that express their place with greater purity and precision.In the cellar, intervention is kept to a minimum. Every decision is designed to preserve energy, freshness and transparency, allowing the vineyard—not the winemaker—to take centre stage.Today we'll explore why Meunier deserves far greater recognition, how innovation and sustainability can actually improve wine quality, and why Cédric believes the future of Champagne lies in working more closely with nature rather than trying to control it.

There’s a quiet shift unfolding in Champagne - and it’s beingled by a new generation willing to question the very foundations of the category. EPC Champagne is a new voice in that movement. Founded in 2019, EPC is reimagining what non-vintage Champagne can be - placing transparency,traceability, and the people behind the wine at the centre of the conversation.Every bottle tells a story: where the fruit comes from, whofarmed it, how it was blended, and why it tastes the way it does. It’s a philosophy that challenges the long-held mystique of ‘house style’ and instead invites drinkers into a deeper, more informed relationship with champagne.But beyond the detail, there’s something more radical atplay - a desire to strip away the formality and return champagne to something instinctive and joyful.Today, we explore what happens when tradition meets a newkind of honesty with EPC’s co-founder, Jérôme Queige.

Today it’s my privilege to welcome Émilien Érard, Chef deCaves of Charles Heidsieck. Émilien was appointed to the role in 2025, marking a quiet but significant evolution for the House. He succeeds Élise Losfelt, who departed to return to her family estate, but he also worked under Élise’s predecessor, the legendary Cyril Brun. Since joining in 2018, Emilien has embedded himself deeplywithin the fabric of Charles Heidsieck. His work has not been defined by visibility, but by precision—overseeing the rhythms of the winery, building trusted relationshipswith growers, and contributing, year after year, to the tasting committee that shapes the House’s signature.Émilien understands not only the technical architecture ofthe wines, but the deeper identity of Charles Heidsieck—its language of texture, patience and quiet power. In this episode, we move beyond the surface, exploring thephilosophy behind Charles Heidsieck’s rosé winemaking, the quiet power of lees ageing and reserve wines, and the nuanced decisions that preserve identity across challenging vintages. We also take a look at the newly released Blancdes Millenaries from the less talked about 2017 vintage.