E221: Ollie Torr - ARCing, coaching and making gains whilst watching Netflix

It's always nice to complete a set isn't it? We've had Ollie a couple of times but now we can unlock the Lattice achievement because we've had Tom on as well. Tom is probably the more well known of the Lattice duo for his rock (and cement) exploits. He loves to suffer, and put himself through some of the most miserable sounding experiences but also manages to keep a good sense of humour about it all. We spoke to him a little bit about a lot of the things he does, but he does so much that we could have gone into greater detail in any of it. Some great moments though, Aidan wants to learn to be more selfish, Tom reckons Pete is at least a one in three human and apparently Ondra was nearly killed trying to climb under a bridge. All this and potentially more within!If you're enjoying the podcast and would like to support us then please do consider checking out our patreon page, we had a teaser of one of Aidan's big yosemite projects on there this week. Gee Whiz! https://www.patreon.com/user?u=70353823Support the show

Ollie is back, he's done a lot of work coaching Aidan in the past and he's one of the most knowledgeable coaches we've ever spoken to. He asked to be pre-warned of some of the things we were going to ask him about, presumably so he could brush up and spend some time revising, then we hit him with a bunch of stuff we hadn't mentioned. Got him. We ramble about peptides, about Abrahangs, about Lattice's occasionally controversial social media, all sorts really. If you're enjoying the podcast and would like to support us, then please consider checking out our Patreon page: https://www.patreon.com/c/u70353823Support the show

If you only tune in every week to enjoy listening to our opening jingle then I must apologise as I am away at the moment and don't have a copy of it with me. I could download an old episode and rip it from there but I'm hungry and I want to go and make dinner. Once again, soz.This week we get a little bit of inside scoop from Aidan about Adam's experience on Exodia. Then we aim to tackle the question that is on every climber's lips for nearly waking second of every day, 'for the love of all that is holy, who is the most influential male boulderer born on or before January 1st 1990!'. I had a few reasons for applying those criteria and I mention them at least briefly in the episode. *Trigger Warning* your favourite climber may get voted off in the first round and our methodology is meandering and occasionally illogical, so again, soz.At the end I give the more learned amongst us (our Patroons) an opportunity to put us right and read out the results of their polling. If you're enjoying the podcast and would like to help us to keep it going then please consider checking out our Patreon page: https://www.patreon.com/user?u=70353823Support the show

If you go out and send a bunch of 9A boulders, we will probably ask you to come on our podcast where we will ask you about anything other than the 9A boulders you sent. There's an inherent contradiction here, I don't really know why we do it, but yet we do it so regularly. Today is no different, our elite athlete of the day is Noah Wheeler, the world class level boulders he has climbed are numerous, but we ended up talking about social confidence, ego, playing tennis and insisting on board styling finesse boulders. I felt like I got to know Noah a bit better during this chat so I hope you will too, and that, if nothing else, is what you can hope for with our lines of questioning!If you're enjoying our podcast, even if you don't know why, then please consider becoming a patroon, it's what keeps me editing and it keeps Aidan semi-reluctantly answering my phone calls. https://www.patreon.com/user?u=70353823Support the show

Much requested, Michael from Tension joined us this week. I sort of hoped this episode would devolve into a mudslinging match as we fought to shift the tiller of board climbing towards our respective visions of board utopia. As it turned out, we actually agreed on most things when it comes to board climbing, but we enjoyed chatting about them anyway. It's a nerdy chat about boards, obviously, but it's also so much more than ..... actually that is basically it, but as two board nerds we enjoyed it anyway. Michael has contributed a huge amount to the scene, not least with his invention of the Board Lords series on YouTube, which is where you can watch a bunch of handsome folk flexing into the camera in a way we all enjoy. If you're the sort of person who finds board climbing culture a bit nauseating, might I recommend listening to Testpiece this week? Or maybe try the rest is history, they did a cracking series on Horatio Nelson which is worth a listen... Anyone still here? No? If you're enjoying the podcast and would like it to continue for a while longer: https://www.patreon.com/user?u=70353823Support the show

At Glastonbury there is a legends slot on Sunday, I felt like we were doing something similar this week. One of the contenders for the tag of 'GOAT', Jakob has climbed top grade boulders and lead climbs, has got two Olympic medals as well as medals almost every year since 2008 on the world cup circuit. We chatted to him about some stuff in relation to the above really. It was very exciting to have him on, there are still a few guests that make us a bit nervous before they come on and this was one of them! Pointlessly nervous of course, as we had a lovely chat. If you want the lovely chats to keep coming, please consider checking out our Patreon page: https://www.patreon.com/user?u=70353823Support the show

I spend a a day editing a podcast and then can't remember almost anything that was in it to write the description. I quite often have to click through it again to remember whichever 'unforgettable' moments there were to try and sell you with. It probably doesn't help that I'm also currently rewatching the Real Thing on YouTube and I keep getting distracted by the incredible garms Jerry is rocking. It's a good episode though, we've got Benn and Katie joining me and Aidan and we took ages to actually get to the idea for the episode, and when we did we mostly strayed off topic again anyway. If you like that sort of thing, then enjoy!If you like the podcast and want to support us, then please consider checking out our Patreon page! https://www.patreon.com/user?u=70353823Support the show

James is back this week! I was tempted to release this split into two episodes because I think the discussion might appeal to different people. In the first half we talk about James going on adventurous trips with his kids and his ascent of the Finnish Line in Rocklands. In the second half we talk about Exodia but more interestingly in many ways we talk about the way the ascent of Exodia was publicised as James was involved with helping to publicise the ascent as part of his position in La Sportiva. That chat starts about halfway through and I personally found it super interesting and a great opportunity for me to stick my generously proportioned beak behind the curtain which is basically the whole reason I do this silly podcast in the first place. I'm curious if you're feeling charitable, or nosey if you're not.  If you're enjoying the podcast and would like to help us keep it going a little while longer then please do consider checking out our Patreon page! https://www.patreon.com/user?u=70353823Support the show

Description description description, Joel and Louis wrote a book, and that means there was immediately a potential for a symbiotic relationship with us on the pod. We like talking about the psychological element of climbing and they wanted to promote their new book. Synergy.Louis is a very famous coach and very strong and highly caffeinated climber, Joel is a psychotherapist and new(er) climber. The two of them have teamed up and written a book all about the mental travails of climbers, or how climbing highlights pre-existing travails, and how we can be kind to ourselves and combat these issues to hopefully live a happier and more content life alongside getting better at climbing. They're a good pair of chaps and we had a great meandering chat. If you want to check out their book (soon to be available for pre-order) check out Get a Grip on Amazon. https://www.patreon.com/user?u=70353823Support the show

Ah the episode description section. Every week I dread filling it out because it feels so superfluous to requirement but here we go again... Joining us this week is Charlie Schreiber (as you can see from the episode title), we talk about coaching, goals, becoming busier, the bouldering progression formula, movement patters and so much more (information you have no doubt gleamed from the title). All jokes aside it's always good fun talking to Charlie, he's very enthusiastic and very easy to talk to, I hope you enjoy it!If you're enjoying the podcast and would like to support us, please consider checking us out on Patreon! https://www.patreon.com/u70353823Support the show