296: Riesling's Big Personality and Germany's Hidden Wine Gems with Anne Krebiehl

How has Rioja's famous architecture impacted tourism and the international perception of Rioja wines? How does Rioja wine style change in a vintage characterized as an Atlantic year versus a Mediterranean year? How did oak aging become so fundamental to the identity of Rioja wines? What’s driving the resurgence of traditional aging methods, such as concrete tanks? In this episode of the Unreserved Wine Talk podcast, I'm chatting with Adam Lechmere, editor of The Smart Traveler's Wine Guide to Rioja, among other books in this series. You can find the wines we discussed at https://www.nataliemaclean.com/winepicks   Giveaway Two of you will win a copy of his terrific new book, Rioja: The Smart Traveller's Wine Guide. To qualify, email me at [email protected] and let me know you've posted a podcast review. I'll choose two people randomly from those who contact me. Good luck!   Highlights Where did the Rioja focus on oak aging develop? How do the characteristics imparted by American versus French oak differ? What do you need to know about the classifications and label regulations for Rioja wine? What’s driving the resurgence of older aging methods, such as concrete tanks? How can you differentiate between French Grenache and Spanish Garnacha? What are some of the key distinguishing characteristics between Tempranillo and Cabernet Sauvignon? What makes a great vintage in Rioja? How has Rioja's famous architecture impacted tourism and the international perception of Rioja wines? Which changes does Adam see coming in Rioja's future?   Key Takeaways Rioja wines are categorized according to the time they spend aging in oak barrels. American oak is particularly well suited for the country’s flagship red grape, Tempranillo, because it has a slightly wider grain than French oak, so it imparts more flavors. The resurgence of traditional aging methods, such as concrete tanks, has been driven by changing global trends in wine styles. It's also that Rioja winemakers are forward-looking in their experimentation because they're such pioneers. You'll find more opulence and generosity in a Mediterranean year, whereas Atlantic-influenced years are more precise and slightly less opulent. Rioja's architecture has been so famous for so long that it’s hard to know whether tourists visit primarily because of the architecture or the wine.   About Adam Lechmere Adam Lechmere is the publishing director of Academie du Vin Library, contributing editor to Club Oenologique, and general manager of the Academie du Vin Foundation, a charity dedicated to improving diversity in wine and hospitality worldwide. Formerly editor of Decanter.com, which he launched in 2000, he has been writing about wine for 25 years, contributing to Decanter, World of Fine Wine, Meininger’s, janeanson.com, the Guardian and other publications; at the end of 2018, he launched Club Oenologique.       To learn more, visit https://www.nataliemaclean.com/304.

What makes the Rioja region of Spain a must-visit destination for wine lovers? What are the best food pairings for Rioja wines? What’s the sticky history behind the Battle of Wine festival in La Rioja? In this episode of the Unreserved Wine Talk podcast, I'm chatting with Adam Lechmere, editor of The Smart Traveler's Wine Guide to Rioja, among other books in this series. You can find the wines we discussed at https://www.nataliemaclean.com/winepicks   Giveaway Two of you will win a copy of the terrific new book, The Smart Traveller's Wine Guide to Rioja, written by Fintan Kerr and edited by our guest Adam Lechemere. To qualify, email me at [email protected] and let me know you've posted a podcast review. I'll choose two people randomly from those who contact me. Good luck!   Highlights What was it like to interview the famous movie director and winery owner Francis Ford Coppola? Are there parallels between the worlds of wine and film? Why did documentary filmmaker Jonathan Nossiter walk out of his interview with Adam? Why was Adam banned twice from Château Latour? What surprising insight did Adam learn while editing The Smart Traveller's Wine Guide to Rioja? How is The Smart Traveler's Wine Guide written especially for wine-interested tourists? What's the biggest misconception people have about Rioja and its wines? Where is Rioja geographically located? What are some of the culinary traditions you can enjoy in Logroño, the capital of La Rioja? Which Rioja and tapas pairings should you try? What’s the history behind the Battle of Wine and El Barrio de la Estación de Haro?   Key Takeaways What they do so brilliantly in Rioja is combine traditional winemaking and outstanding wines with ultra-modern, avant-garde buildings often next door to ancient, gorgeous medieval churches. Lamb and Rioja is a brilliant combination, according to Adam and I agree. The rule of thumb for any wine region is to pair it with the food that's made in the region. What grows together, goes together. When you have lots of anything that is also your livelihood, you celebrate it. The Battle of Wine festival is a series of processions that begins about a week before on the 23rd of June, and it culminates with everybody going up onto the hill to what they call the temple. Like a lot of these festivals, it goes back into the mists of time and people don't know exactly how it started.   About Adam Lechmere Adam Lechmere is the publishing director of Academie du Vin Library, contributing editor to Club Oenologique, and general manager of the Academie du Vin Foundation, a charity dedicated to improving diversity in wine and hospitality worldwide. Formerly editor of Decanter.com, which he launched in 2000, he has been writing about wine for 25 years, contributing to Decanter, World of Fine Wine, Meininger’s, janeanson.com, the Guardian and other publications; at the end of 2018, he launched Club Oenologique.       To learn more, visit https://www.nataliemaclean.com/303.

Why is winemaking always a challenge, no matter how long you’ve been doing it? How are wind machines used to mitigate the negative impact of cold weather? How does Pelee Island’s biodiversity influence the brand and winery? Why is it important for winemakers to respect the natural environment? In this episode of the Unreserved Wine Talk podcast, I'm chatting with Martin Janz, the chief winemaker at Pelee Island Winery in Southwestern Ontario. You can find the wines we discussed at https://www.nataliemaclean.com/winepicks   Giveaway Three of you will each win a fabulous bottle of LOLA Light Rosé from Pelee Island Winery. To qualify, all you have to do is email me at [email protected] and let me know that you've posted a review of the podcast. I'll choose three people randomly from those who contact me. Good luck!   Highlights How did Martin realize he wanted to become a winemaker? What was it like growing up in the family winery and getting involved from a young age? Why did Martin decide to join Pelee Island Winery in Canada, and what has kept him there for 30 years? How does Martin challenge himself as a winemaker after 30 years at Pelee Island Winery? What happens if you don’t take the top off of a steel tank when filtering wine? Why is Pelee Island often overlooked as a wine region when people think about Ontario wines? How does the relatively warmer climate on Pelee Island impact the type and quality of wines produced? Does Pelee Island Winery utilize special strategies to mitigate the cold impact in the winter? How do the the flora and fauna feature on Pelee Island wines? Why it is important for winemakers to respect the natural environment? How did Martin pack so much flavour into Pelee Island Winery LOLA Light Rosé despite it having low alcohol content? Which grapes are blended into LOLA Light Rosé and which foods would pair well with it? What are Martin's top two tips for visitors to Pelee Island and other local wineries? If Martin could share a bottle of wine with anyone, why would he choose Anthony Bourdain and which wine would he choose?   Key Takeaways If you make wine, every year is a challenge. He doesn’t want to follow the same recipe every year to get the exact same product. Every year is a little bit different. Wind machines take the cold air off the floor of the vineyard and then bring in warm air because hot air rises and can actually raise the temperature by two to three degrees. Pelee Island’s labels feature local flora and fauna, reflecting it's rich and unique biodiversity. As a winemaker, Martin believes that it should be an automatic response to respect nature. That’s why they don’t use synthetic insecticides and pesticides.   About Martin Janz Born in Germany, Martin Janz is the esteemed winemaker at Pelee Island Winery & Vineyards Inc., where he combines tradition with innovation to craft exceptional wines. Martin's approach to winemaking is rooted in a profound respect for the terroir of Pelee Island, allowing the unique characteristics of the region's grapes to shine through in every bottle.     To learn more, visit https://www.nataliemaclean.com/302.

What is the connection between alcohol and innovation? How does alcohol help enhance trust and cooperation? Why is it important not to think about alcohol consumption through a medical lens alone? In this episode of the Unreserved Wine Talk podcast, I’m chatting with Edward Slingerland, a professor of philosophy at the University of British Columbia and the author of Drunk: How We Sipped, Danced, and Stumbled Our Way to Civilization. You can find the wines we discussed at https://www.nataliemaclean.com/winepicks   Giveaway One of you will win a bottle of Gary Farrell wine. To qualify, all you have to do is email me at [email protected] and let me know that you've posted a review of the podcast. I'll choose one person randomly from those who contact me. Good luck!   Highlights What’s Edward's take on the quote attributed to Ernest Hemingway about writing drunk and editing sober? How did Edward use this strategy when writing the book proposal for "Drunk"? What role did alcohol play in Edward’s first lecture as a graduate student? How did the first pub on the University of British Columbia campus lead to a major research collaboration on the evolution of religion? What is the "Ballmer Peak," and how does it relate to alcohol and creativity? How does alcohol help enhance trust and cooperation in large-scale societies? Why did problem drinking increase significantly during the pandemic? What was the most surprising insight Edward discovered while writing "Drunk"? Why is it inadequate to look at alcohol consumption through a medical lens alone? What are the three objects Edward would include in a museum exhibit about himself? Who would Edward most want to share a bottle of wine with?   Key Takeaways What is the connection between alcohol and innovation? It’s a double effect in enhancing individual creativity and reducing inhibitions. Alcohol also enhances group creativity because individual members are more creative. They’re also less nervous about saying something that your prefrontal cortex would judge as not worthy when perhaps it’s a great idea. We have to recognize both the dangers and the benefits of alcohol to make intelligent decisions about how to use it.   About Edward Slingerland Edward Slingerland is a Distinguished University Scholar and Professor of Philosophy at the University of British Columbia, where he also holds appointments in the Departments of Psychology and Asian Studies. He is also Director of the Database of Religious History. Dr. Slingerland is the author of several academic monographs and edited volumes, a major translation of the Analects of Confucius, and approximately fifty book chapters, reviews, and articles in top academic journals in a wide range of fields.       To learn more, visit https://www.nataliemaclean.com/301.

How does alcohol, especially wine, foster our creativity, trustingness, and sociability? What does the “beer before bread” hypothesis suggest about alcohol's role in the development of civilization? Should there be different minimum drinking ages for wine and beer versus spirits? In this episode of the Unreserved Wine Talk podcast, I'm chatting with Edward Slingerland, a professor of philosophy at the University of British Columbia and the author of Drunk: How We Sipped, Danced, and Stumbled Our Way to Civilization. You can find the wines we discussed at https://www.nataliemaclean.com/winepicks   Giveaway One of you will win a bottle of Gary Farrell wine. To qualify, all you have to do is email me at [email protected] and let me know that you've posted a review of the podcast. I'll choose one person randomly from those who contact me. Good luck!   Highlights What drew Edward to study the history of drunkenness? What does the “beer before bread” hypothesis suggest about how our desire to drink alcohol led to civilization? Why was ancient beer production so costly? What is the "Asian flushing syndrome" and why does Edward think it developed? Why does Edward consider the prefrontal cortex to be the enemy of creativity? How have we removed the inherent safety features of alcohol over thousands of years of evolution? Should there be different minimum drinking ages for wine/beer versus spirits? What makes wine the king of intoxicants? How does alcohol affect the prefrontal cortex? When does creativity peak relative to blood alcohol content?   Key Takeaways Edward observes that alcohol stimulates the pro-social chemicals in our body, like serotonin and endorphin, that make us feel expansive and kind of feel good about ourselves and more kindly disposed toward other people. One of the brain regions that it quiets is the prefrontal cortex. The traditional story is that alcohol is a result of an evolutionary or historical accident. But since then, archeologists believe that maybe the story was the other way around. The draw for hunter-gatherers to settle down and cultivate crops was not bread. It was beer. This is the so-called beer before bread hypothesis. Edward observes that once distilled liquors became available on a large scale, the dangers of alcohol in the super potent form became greater because it can overwhelm our system and you can go from being sober to being really dangerously drunk in 10 or 15 minutes. Edward doesn’t think people should be allowed to drink distilled liquor until well into their 20s.   About Edward Slingerland Edward Slingerland is a Distinguished University Scholar and Professor of Philosophy at the University of British Columbia, where he also holds appointments in the Departments of Psychology and Asian Studies. He is also Director of the Database of Religious History. Dr. Slingerland is the author of several academic monographs and edited volumes, a major translation of the Analects of Confucius, and approximately fifty book chapters, reviews, and articles in top academic journals in a wide range of fields.       To learn more, visit https://www.nataliemaclean.com/300.

Why should you look beyond Eurocentric wine and food pairings? What’s so special about making vineyard-designated wines? How can you get the most out of your next trip to Sonoma County? In this episode of the Unreserved Wine Talk podcast, I'm chatting with superstar winemaker Theresa Heredia who has worked for some of California’s most prestigious wineries. You can find the wines we discussed at https://www.nataliemaclean.com/winepicks   Giveaway One of you will win a bottle of Gary Farrell wine. To qualify, all you have to do is email me at [email protected] and let me know that you've posted a review of the podcast.  I'll choose one person randomly from those who contact me.  Good luck!   Highlights What’s the difference between making vineyard-designated wines versus blends? What flavours and aromas are imparted by including ripened stems in the fermentation process? How many different types of soil are found in Sonoma County and how did this diversity develop? How do microclimates differ across the wine neighbourhoods of the Russian River Valley and what is their influence on the wine’s characteristics? What makes Chardonnay more of a “survivor” grape compared to other varieties? What are some of the challenges that sustain the low level of diversity in the male-dominated wine industry? How has being a gay woman impacted Theresa’s experience in the wine industry? What can wineries do to be more inclusive towards the LGBTQ community? What are Theresa’s top tips for your next visit to Sonoma County and the Gary Farrell winery? What can you expect from Gary Farrell Wines Hallberg Vineyard Pinot Noir and Sanford & Benedict Pinot Noir and how do they differ? Why should we expand beyond some of the traditional Eurocentric wine and food pairings?   Key Takeaways Eurocentric pairings don’t account for cultural and socioeconomic differences. We have to flip a switch in our brains to think of different descriptors and different food pairings that are more relevant to people from different cultural backgrounds. Theresa loves making vineyard-designated wines because they each have unique characteristics. Some of them produce dark fruit, like Colberg and McDonald Mountain, versus an inland vineyard called the Middle Reach. Acid is there. It's a defining characteristic, but it's not quite as prominent as in those cooler climates. Theresa advises getting out to Sonoma County restaurants. She also says to avoid booking too many tastings, perhaps just two or three in a day. Choose a well-known winery and one that's off the beaten path.   About Theresa Heredia Theresa Heredia started her career at Saintsbury and has also worked at Joseph Phelps Vineyards and Domaine de Montille in France. She became Winemaker at Gary Farrell Winery in 2012 and achieved critical acclaim for her wines. At Gary Farrell, she developed strong relationships with some of the most prominent vineyards in California. She was twice nominated as Winemaker of the Year by Wine Enthusiast and has received numerous other accolades.         To learn more, visit https://www.nataliemaclean.com/299.

Does harvesting wine based on the biodynamic calendar make sense? What about actually drinking the wine based on the lunar cycle? How does fog play a profound role in growing grapes and winemaking in the Russian River Valley of Sonoma, California? Why do some winemakers add Mega Purple to wine, and what the heck is Mega Purple? In this episode of the Unreserved Wine Talk podcast, I'm chatting with superstar winemaker Theresa Heredia who has worked for some of California’s most prestigious wineries. You can find the wines we discussed at https://www.nataliemaclean.com/winepicks   Giveaway One of you will win a bottle of Gary Farrell wine. To qualify, all you have to do is email me at [email protected] and let me know that you've posted a review of the podcast.  I'll choose one person randomly from those who contact me.  Good luck!   Highlights What was the "aha moment" in her wine career that Theresa experienced during a trip to France? Which aspects of Pinot Noir and Châteauneuf-du-Pape captured Theresa’s interest? How did finding the intersection between chemistry and wine change the trajectory of Theresa’s career? How did Theresa get through the double heat waves of 2010 - the most challenging year of her wine career? Which viral moment has been the highlight of Theresa’s wine career so far? What was it like to work at a new vineyard as a new experimental winemaker? How often does Theresa taste the grapes as they ripen in the vineyard and the wine as it ages in the barrel? What are “Jesus units” in winemaking? What’s Theresa's opinion on Mega Purple, and why is it used in winemaking? What can you expect from a visit to the Gary Farrell winery and tasting room? How did Theresa approach making the wines her own over the years at Gary Farrell Winery? What makes the Russian River Valley AVA unique in Sonoma? How does fog influence the development of grapes in a vineyard?   Key Takeaways The lunar cycle is correlated to gravitational forces. So if you pick on a root day, the theory is that you're not going to capture as much of the aromatics as you would on a fruit day when the gravitational forces are the weakest. The fog and diurnal temperature shifts help preserve acidity and color development in the grapes. It can get up to 90 degrees Fahrenheit in the daytime, but at night, the grapes cool down to fog temperature, which is about 50-55 degrees. So you get that big swing in temperatures called a diurnal shift. Mega Purple is highly concentrated grape juice made from Rubired grapes. Winemakers use Mega Purple to add color, body and texture, and make bigger, bolder wines.   About Theresa Heredia Theresa Heredia started her career at Saintsbury and has also worked at Joseph Phelps Vineyards and Domaine de Montille in France. She became Winemaker at Gary Farrell Winery in 2012 and achieved critical acclaim for her wines. At Gary Farrell, she developed strong relationships with some of the most prominent vineyards in California. She was twice nominated as Winemaker of the Year by Wine Enthusiast and has received numerous other accolades.         To learn more, visit https://www.nataliemaclean.com/298.

Why do Ontario winemakers need to be exceptionally unreasonable, stubborn, and pathological optimists? Which Ontario wines should you try next, other than Icewine? Why should Ontario be at the top of your list of wine regions to visit? In this episode of the Unreserved Wine Talk podcast, I'm being interviewed by Matthew Gaughan on Matthew's World of Wine and Drink. You can find the wines we discussed at https://www.nataliemaclean.com/winepicks   Highlights Where is Ontario located, and what are the major wine regions within the province? What is the Ontario wine growing season like? When were Ontario’s first wineries established, and how has the industry developed since? What is the history of Icewine in Canada, and how is it made? Which notable Ontario white wine varieties should you try? How do Ontario Riesling and Sauvignon Blanc compare to other regions? Which unforgettable red wine varieties produced in Ontario should you try? What should you know about the sparkling wine scene in Ontario? How much of Canadian wine is exported, and what are some of the challenges faced by the industry? How is wine sold and consumed in Canada? What are some of the must-try experiences when visiting Ontario wine regions? How do Canadian wine producers promote their wines abroad?   Key Takeaways Why do Ontario winemakers need to be exceptionally unreasonable, stubborn, and pathological optimists? They need to brave our climate because humid summers can cause rot and mildew, rain right before the grapes are harvested, which, of course, can dilute the flavour, and then winters that can kill the vines. As one winemaker once told me, you can lose the whole field in an afternoon—a whole year’s work. Which Ontario wines should you try next, other than Icewine? Riesling is the number one white grape variety in Ontario, and it’s really undervalued. Everybody knows Chardonnay as a brand name and feels safer with It, but once they try Riesling, they realize how much flavour they’ve been missing. Why should Ontario be at the top of your list of wine regions to visit? First, it has stunning scenery and landscapes. Many wineries have restaurants so they offer delicious pairing menus. There are lots of other activities to do as well.   Join me on Instagram, Facebook and YouTube Live Join the live-stream video of this conversation on Wed at 7 pm ET on Instagram Live Video, Facebook Live Video or YouTube Live Video. I want to hear from you! What’s your opinion of what we’re discussing? What takeaways or tips do you love most from this chat? What questions do you have that we didn’t answer? Want to know when we go live? Add this to your calendar: https://www.addevent.com/calendar/CB262621   About Matthew Gaughan & Matthew's World of Wine and Drink As a WSET-certified educator, Matthew Gaughan regularly teaches students to prepare them for exams. His podcast, Matthew's World of Wine and Drink, features episodes focusing on specific topics—grape varieties, regions—to help in that preparation and provide historical and cultural context.         To learn more, visit https://www.nataliemaclean.com/297.

How do the soils of Germany change the expression of Riesling in your glass? What would surprise you about the size and of German wine production in relation to other leading wine-producing countries? How is climate change dramatically changing the way Germany cultivates vines? In this episode of the Unreserved Wine Talk podcast, I'm chatting with author Anne Krebiehl. You can find the wines we discussed at https://www.nataliemaclean.com/winepicks   Giveaway One of you will win a copy of Anne Krebiehl's terrific book, The Wines of Germany. To qualify, all you have to do is email me at [email protected] and let me know that you've posted a review of the podcast.  I'll choose one person randomly from those who contact me.  Good luck!   Highlights What is unique about the landscape of Germany’s wine regions? Where does Germany rank globally in terms of volume of wine production? Why is it difficult for Germany to compete with larger and more popular wine regions? What makes Riesling so polarizing, and why does Anne love writing about it? What does Anne mean by her description of wine as “transparent” or “crystalline”? How do the different soils of Germany change the expression of Riesling in the glass? What does it mean to be an aromatic, semi-aromatic or non-aromatic grape? How is climate change impacting Germany's winegrowing ability? Why is Anne obsessed with Pinot Noir? Which other notable German grape varieties should you try? What would Anne add to a new edition of Wines of Germany?   About Anne Krebiehl Anne Krebiehl MW is a freelance wine writer and lecturer. She is the editor for Germany, Austria, Alsace and Grower Champagne for Vinous Media and publishes widely in trade and consumer publications. Her first book, The Wines of Germany, won Domaine Faiveley International Wine Book of The Year 2020 at the Louis Roederer International Wine Writers’ Awards.   Bonus Interview - Ottawa Independent Writers | Writer's Workshop: Highlights Mistake 5: Getting sued by friends, family and others for defamation, invasion of privacy or copyright infringement What should you think about when writing the comp section – comparative titles – of your book proposal? Which factors should you consider when deciding where to start your memoir?   About Ottawa Independent Writers Ottawa Independent Writers (OIW) was formed in 1986 as a venue for people with a passion for creating fiction and non-fiction, for writing poetry and plays, and for stringing words together in a variety of other formats. OIW’s members are involved in every aspect of the printed and electronic word.         To learn more, visit https://www.nataliemaclean.com/296.

Why has German beer been so much more successful marketing-wise than German wine in foreign markets, particularly in the U.K. and North America? How does German law make it complex to navigate the country’s wines for consumers? What is selective harvesting, and why is it fundamental to understanding German wine? In this episode of the Unreserved Wine Talk podcast, I'm chatting with author Anne Krebiehl. You can find the wines we discussed at https://www.nataliemaclean.com/winepicks   Giveaway One of you will win a copy of Anne Krebiehl's terrific book, The Wines of Germany. To qualify, all you have to do is email me at [email protected] and let me know that you've posted a review of the podcast.  I'll choose one person randomly from those who contact me.  Good luck!   Highlights How did Simon and Garfunkel help Anne learn English? What was Anne’s experience getting her first article published while working at Deutsche Bank? What drew Anne to shift from food writing to wine writing? Why did Anne want to work harvests around the world, and how did she convince wineries to let her join? What is Central Otago, New Zealand like, and what was Anne’s most memorable moment from the harvest? How do the landscapes of Piedmont, Italy, and Baden, Germany, differ from Central Otago? What makes Anne’s book, The Wines of Germany, different from other books about German wine? What is it about German wine law that can make it complex and confusing for consumers? What is selective harvesting? How did German wines become known to be sweet? Why has German beer been so much more successful than German wine? How does the central geography and climate of Germany impact its wine production?   About Anne Krebiehl Anne Krebiehl MW is a freelance wine writer and lecturer. She is the editor for Germany, Austria, Alsace and Grower Champagne for Vinous Media and publishes widely in trade and consumer publications. Her first book, The Wines of Germany, won Domaine Faiveley International Wine Book of The Year 2020 at the Louis Roederer International Wine Writers’ Awards.   Bonus Interview - Ottawa Independent Writers | Writer's Workshop: Highlights The mistake in following a chronological series of events. There's nothing that will put readers to sleep more quickly than a this happened, then this happened narrative. The mistake of underestimating the difficulty of navigating a dual timeline. While it can be difficult to try to weave back and forth, clumping together parts of your story by category won't be satisfying to the reader. The mistake of believing that memoir is more closely aligned to non-fiction than fiction. A memoir is a true account but the techniques of memoir are all on the fiction side of things - plot, character development, climax and conflict.   About Ottawa Independent Writers Ottawa Independent Writers (OIW) was formed in 1986 as a venue for people with a passion for creating fiction and non-fiction, for writing poetry and plays, and for stringing words together in a variety of other formats. OIW’s members are involved in every aspect of the printed and electronic word.         To learn more, visit https://www.nataliemaclean.com/295.