Skin As It Should Be

Welcome to Episode 01 of Skin As It Should Be Podcast! In this conversation, host Geoff Paton interviews master chemist Trevor Steyn about the science of skincare and the crucial role of the skin microbiome.   He shares his journey from chemistry to ethical skincare, critiques the industry’s reliance on petrochemicals, and explains how microbiome research has transformed his approach. They discuss the dangers of “strip and replace” skincare, the importance of microbial diversity, and practical tips for supporting healthy skin.   The conversation highlights the need for microbiome-friendly products and a shift toward long-term, science-based skin health. This is a roadmap for anyone seeking real, lasting skin health.         ⏱ Timestamped Overview  01:19 - Discovering Chemistry and Early Influences  02:31 - Entry into Skincare and Industry Critique  03:55 - Petrochemicals in Skincare  05:02 - Building an Ethical Skincare Brand  06:04 - Organic Certification and Early Product Development  07:12 - Impact of the Human Microbiome Project  08:17 - Complexity of Treating Skin as an Ecosystem  08:44 - Single Molecule Applications and Unintended Consequences  09:41 - Short-Term vs. Long-Term Skincare Thinking  10:43 - Human Microbiome Project Explained  12:46 - Reformulating Products for the Microbiome  14:06 - Cost and Challenges of Microbiome-Friendly Formulation  16:34 - Differences Between Gut and Skin Microbiome Research  18:22 - Legacy Skincare vs. Microbiome Science  21:44 - Consequences of Stripping the Skin Microbiome  23:58 - Skin Health Issues from Modern Skincare  25:54 - Restoring Skin Ecology: Practical Advice  27:42 - Live Microbes and Probiotic Skincare  29:20 - Benefits of Restoring the Skin Microbiome  30:29 - Frustrations and Progress in the Skincare Industry  33:02 - Future of Skincare: Biotherapeutics and Innovation  35:25 - Key Takeaway: Treat Skin as an Ecology        💬 Quote of the Episode  “Skin should be robust, alive, diverse, and beautiful. It’s not something you can just strip and sterilize and expect to have a good long-term outcome.” – Trevor Steyn        🌐 Connect with ESSE Skincare  🔗 Website: https://www.esseskincare.com 📸 Instagram: https://www.instagram.com/esseskincare_/ 🎧 Youtube: https://www.youtube.com/esseskincare   Facebook: https://www.facebook.com/EsseSkincareSA   LinkedIn: https://www.linkedin.com/company/esse-skincare  

Welcome to Episode 06 of Skin As It Should Be Podcast! In this conversation, host Geoff Paton interviews master chemist Trevor Steyn about the evolving field of microbiome skincare, focusing on live biotherapeutics, postbiotics, and related technologies.  Trevor highlights regulatory hurdles, misuse of the term “probiotic,” and emerging innovations like encapsulation, phage therapy, and AI-driven personalized treatments. They explore the differences between genetically engineered microbes used as drugs and naturally occurring microbes in over-the-counter products, as well as the challenges of maintaining live microbes in formulations.   He concludes with optimism about the future of microbiome skincare, while acknowledging ongoing technical and economic challenges. This episode unpacks the actionable guidance for consumers, formulators, and industry professionals navigating this rapidly evolving space.      ⏱ Timestamped Overview  00:13 - The Two Paths for Live Biotherapeutics  01:16 - Misuse of the Term "Probiotics" in Skincare    02:51 - Drug Path: Companies and Technologies  06:08 - Safety Mechanisms in Genetically Engineered Microbes  07:58 - Over-the-Counter Path: Naturally Occurring Microbes  10:05 - Encapsulation and Delivery Technologies  12:41 - GRAS and Non-GRAS Species Explained    16:46 - Legal Actions and Regulatory Crackdown  18:26 - Techniques for Maintaining Live Microbes  22:25 - Live vs. Dead Microbes: Efficacy  27:13 - Light-Based Microbiome Manipulation  30:02 - Precision Biotherapeutics and AI  34:17 - Barriers to Everyday Adoption        💬 Quote of the Episode  “We see much higher benefits with live microbes.” – Trevor Steyn        🌐 Connect with ESSE Skincare  🔗 Website: https://www.esseskincare.com   Youtube: https://www.youtube.com/esseskincare   Facebook: https://www.facebook.com/EsseSkincareSA   LinkedIn: https://www.linkedin.com/company/esse-skincare   Instagram: https://www.instagram.com/esseskincare_/ 

Welcome to Episode 05 of Skin As It Should Be Podcast! In this conversation, host Geoff Paton interviews master chemist Trevor Steyn about the complexities of sun exposure, vitamin D, and public health messaging.  They challenge the blanket advice to avoid sun and rely solely on sunscreen, highlighting the risks of vitamin D deficiency and the broader health benefits of sunlight. The discussion covers the science of vitamin D synthesis, the limitations of supplementation, the impact of sunscreen chemicals, and the need for personalized sun exposure based on individual factors.    In this episode, we’ll dive deep into the science, controversies, and practical strategies for optimizing your relationship with the sun.        ⏱ Timestamped Overview  01:29 - Risks of Sun Avoidance and Swedish Study  02:48 - Sunlight’s Benefits Beyond Vitamin D  03:18 - Vitamin D Deficiency and Public Messaging  05:22 - Complexity of Sun Exposure Guidance  06:13 - Factors Affecting Vitamin D Synthesis  10:29 - Modern Lifestyle and Vitamin D Apps  12:15 - Vitamin D’s Role in Human Evolution  15:01 - Chemical Risks of Sunscreens  17:14 - Health Impacts of Low Vitamin D  18:43 - Limitations of Vitamin D Supplementation  19:20 - Problems with High-Dose Vitamin D  20:28 - NIH Study: Supplements vs. Placebo  22:46 - Sunlight Produces Multiple Steroids  25:02 - How to Optimize Vitamin D Naturally  27:20 - Testing for Vitamin D Levels  30:26 - Vitamin D’s Systemic Health Roles  33:37 - Using Apps to Personalize Sun Exposure  37:21 - Balancing Sunscreen Use and Vitamin D  39:47 - Evolutionary Mismatch & Burn Events  41:58 - Fear-Based Sunscreen Marketing            💬 Quote of the Episode  “Avoiding the sun is about as deleterious to your health as heavy smoking.” – Trevor Steyn        🌐 Connect with ESSE Skincare  🔗 Website: https://www.esseskincare.com  Youtube: https://www.youtube.com/esseskincare   Facebook: https://www.facebook.com/EsseSkincareSA   LinkedIn: https://www.linkedin.com/company/esse-skincare  Instagram: https://www.instagram.com/esseskincare_/ 

Welcome to Episode 04 of Skin As It Should Be Podcast! In this conversation, host Geoff Paton interviews master chemist Trevor Steyn about the challenges of ethical formulation, the pitfalls of industry standards, and the importance of transparency and research.   He shares the brand’s evolution from being perceived as organic to focusing on microbiome health, emphasizing long-term skin wellness over quick fixes. Trevor highlights the brand’s commitment to safe, effective ingredients, sustainability, and fair trade, explaining why they avoid harmful chemicals and prioritize client health over profit.  The conversation offers insights into innovation, ethical business practices, and the future of microbiome skincare.        ⏱ Timestamped Overview  01:01 - Shift to Microbiome Skincare  02:31 - Challenges of Organic Messaging  04:11 - Reformulation for Microbiome  05:19 - Long-Term Skin Health vs. Short-Term Results  06:07 - Dangers of Phthalates and Industry Practices  09:52 - Ethics Before Profit in Formulation  11:34 - Ensuring Product Safety and Ingredient Transparency  13:52 - Limitations of Organic Certification  15:13 - Beyond Certification: Ingredient Choices    18:13 - Challenges for Multinational Formulators  20:01 - Retail Formulation and Brand Lifespan  21:40 - Formulation Philosophy and Willingness to Fail  23:34 - Key Ingredients and Formulation Building Blocks  27:17 - Environmental and Ethical Commitments  30:43 - Business Model and Avoiding Venture Capital          💬 Quote of the Episode  “The ethics of what we do is something we choose to keep quiet about, but it’s still our reason for being.” – Trevor Steyn        🌐 Connect with ESSE Skincare  🔗 Website: https://www.esseskincare.com  🎧 Youtube: https://www.youtube.com/esseskincare    Facebook: https://www.facebook.com/EsseSkincareSA LinkedIn: https://www.linkedin.com/company/esse-skincare    Instagram: https://www.instagram.com/esseskincare_/ 

Welcome to Episode 03 of Skin As It Should Be Podcast! In this conversation, host Geoff Paton interviews master chemist Trevor Steyn to explore the science and ethics of better-aging. They discuss the challenges of studying aging, the influence of social media on young people seeking cosmetic treatments, and the importance of lifestyle factors; like diet, sun exposure, and microbiome health in slowing aging.   Trevor highlights the trade-offs of quick fixes versus long-term skin health, the role of genetics, and the need for realistic expectations. They emphasize that sustainable results come from healthy habits, not shortcuts, and encourage listeners to balance occasional treatments with consistent self-care.  Whether you’re a skincare enthusiast, a health-conscious individual, or simply curious about the science of aging, this episode will equip you with the knowledge to make informed, sustainable choices.        ⏱ Timestamped Overview  01:06 - Short-Term vs. Long-Term Study Limitations  04:08 - Trends: Younger People and Social Media Influence  05:25 - Ethics and Practitioner Responsibility  07:26 - Can We Turn Back the Clock?  10:12 - Complexity of Skin and Gut Microbiome    11:51 - Hunter-Gatherer Lifestyle and Aging  13:02 - Microbiome, Stress, and Inflammation  14:10 - Skin Surface Area and Microbiome Impact  15:47 - Evolutionary Mismatch and Modern Lifestyle  18:55 - Chronic Inflammation and Modern Diseases  20:22 - Genetics vs. Lifestyle in Aging  22:44 - Diet, Glycation, and Skin Aging  24:02 - Nature vs. Nurture: Lifestyle’s Role  29:18 - Retinol and Retinoids: Benefits and Risks    34:31 - Bakuchiol as a Retinol Alternative  39:50 - Visible Signs of Premature Aging  42:08 - Measuring Effectiveness of Interventions  45:03 - Expected Timeline for Results        💬 Quote of the Episode  “You can definitely slow the tick of the clock, but it takes willpower most of the time.” – Trevor Steyn        🌐 Connect with ESSE Skincare  🔗 Website: https://www.esseskincare.com   🎧 Youtube: https://www.youtube.com/esseskincare   Facebook: https://www.facebook.com/EsseSkincareSA   LinkedIn: https://www.linkedin.com/company/esse-skincare   Instagram: https://www.instagram.com/esseskincare_/ 

Welcome to Episode 02 of Skin As It Should Be Podcast! In this conversation, host Geoff Paton interviews master chemist Trevor Steyn about the rising prevalence of sensitive skin, exploring its causes and the impact of modern skincare routines.    They highlight how overuse of harsh products and disruption of the skin’s microbiome contribute to inflammation and sensitivity. Trevor recommends simplifying skincare, protecting the skin’s barrier, and embracing a “less is more” approach to support long-term skin health.  The conversation covers the history of sensitive skin, the importance of maintaining the skin’s natural oils and pH, and practical advice for healthier routines.  For more info on the personalised skincare, visit https://www.esseskincare.co.za/prescript/       ⏱ Timestamped Overview  01:38 - Historical Emergence of Sensitive Skin as a Condition  02:13 - Sensitive Skin in Traditional vs. Modern Lifestyles  03:17 - How Self-Assessment Surveys Work  05:33 - Signs and Symptoms of Sensitive Skin  07:11 - Product Use and Delayed Sensitivity  08:39 - Skin Microbiome, Barrier Function, and Inflammation  10:28 - Product Dependence and Occlusive Ingredients  11:48 - Triggers for Dry Skin and Product Use  14:03 - Genetics vs. Acquired Sensitive Skin  16:35 - Generational Decline in Skin Microbiome Diversity  17:57 - Consequences of Microbial Loss and Reintroduction Challenge  19:28 - Antibiotics and Skin Microbiome Recovery  21:04 - Industrial Skincare’s Role in Microbiome Damage  24:11 - Human Microbiome Project and Industry Messaging  26:42 - Strategies for Sensitive Skin Management  29:38 - Surface vs. Pore Microbiome and Preservative Impact  30:55 - Foaming Products and Cultural Cleanliness Norms  32:58 - Lifestyle, Diet, and Microbial Exposure    35:13 - Practical Routine Changes for Sensitive Skin  40:20 - Benefits of Improved Barrier Function and Formulation Insights  44:24 - Importance of Skin pH and Soap Critique  48:40 - Three Key Takeaways for Sensitive Skin        💬 Quote of the Episode  “Protect your sebum. The natural oils on your skin are really impressive.” – Trevor Steyn        🌐 Connect with ESSE Skincare  🔗 Website: https://www.esseskincare.com   🎧 Youtube: https://www.youtube.com/esseskincare   Facebook: https://www.facebook.com/EsseSkincareSA   LinkedIn: https://www.linkedin.com/company/esse-skincare   Instagram: https://www.instagram.com/esseskincare_/