The Caviar Whisperer: French Farming, Fine Dining & Finding Gold in Sturgeon Eggs
In this sumptuous episode of Sensing Up, Valerie Henbest sits down with Guy de Saint Laurent — a Frenchman whose career has taken him from yeast factories and foie gras kitchens to the world's most exclusive caviar farms. Guy shares the remarkable journey of French farm caviar, the science and soul behind producing it, and why Australia's culinary scene is fast becoming one of the most exciting in the world. Bring your five senses — and perhaps a glass of champagne. We begin with foie gras — what it is, how it's made, and why it has become so controversial. Guy explains the natural origins of the gavage process, traces its history back to migrating birds, and shares why champagne, not Sauternes, is his preferred pairing for cutting through that signature richness. From there, Guy walks us through his unlikely career — starting as an export manager for Le Saf, one of the world's largest yeast producers, before moving into foie gras with Rougier and eventually finding his way to the world of premium caviar with Sturia. It's a journey that took him from Normandy to Africa, Paris to China, and ultimately to the Gironde river in Bordeaux. The heart of the episode is the fascinating, little-known history of French farm caviar. After the Bolshevik Revolution, White Russian exiles living near Arcachon watched local fishermen throw away the eggs of the native Gironde sturgeon in disbelief — and taught the French how to make caviar. That tradition survived until overfishing forced a ban on wild sturgeon in 1982, which eventually led to the birth of France's first caviar farm and its first harvest in 1996. Guy walks us through the extraordinary effort behind every tin — from hatching and hand-sexing 20,000 fish a year via X-ray, to biopsy, firmness testing, hand-salting with 300-metre-deep mine salt, and the philosophy of postponing or cancelling a harvest entirely rather than releasing anything less than perfect. Nothing is wasted: the flesh goes to restaurants, the skin becomes leather or collagen for medicine. We also explore how caviar has changed. today's farm caviar is low-salt, mineral and delicate — a world away from the over-salted Caspian product of the 1950s that demanded vodka as a palate cleanser. That shift has opened up extraordinary new pairings: caviar on burrata with a drizzle of olive oil, caviar folded into beef tartare with a Bordeaux Merlot, and an unforgettable silent-table moment with a Château Palmer 1967. Finally, Guy reflects on Australia's booming culinary scene — a "pays de la cocagne," or land of plenty — and why caviar is a natural fit for a country blessed with world-class produce from every coastline and climate. About Our Guest Guy de Saint Laurent is an international luxury food specialist based in France. He began his career as an export manager for Le Saf before moving into premium food products — first foie gras with Rougier, then farm caviar with Sturia. Since 2017, Guy has led the international development of Sturia, a pioneering caviar producer based in the Gironde region of Bordeaux. He is a passionate advocate for unexpected pairings and a firm believer that Australia is one of the most exciting food destinations in the world. Try It at Home: Burrata with Caviar This is the showstopping yet simple dish Valerie and Guy served at their Cheese, Champagne & Caviar masterclass. Take a fresh burrata and cut it in half. Place each half skin-side down on a small plate and drizzle generously with a good extra virgin olive oil. Using a mother-of-pearl spoon — never metal, as caviar reacts to it — place a small quenelle of caviar on top. Serve immediately. Trust us. Connect & Learn More Find out more about Sturia Caviar at sturia.com. Follow Sensing Up for more episodes exploring food, wine and luxury gastronomy, and keep an eye on Valerie's channels for upcoming masterclasses and tasting events.
