What the Sustainable Seafood Label Can't See

You bought the fish with the green check mark. Investigators with The Outlaw Ocean Project then checked the supply chains behind hundreds of seafood companies making sustainability claims, and more than half had a documented crime or concern somewhere upstream. In the final episode of our fish feed series, Andrew Lewin looks at what sustainable seafood labels cover and where their audits stop. Follow fishmeal from Western Sahara to ASC-certified sea bass farms in Türkiye that supply UK supermarkets, and from the Golden Lead plant in Gunjur, The Gambia, to a certified shrimp feed mill in Vietnam whose customers ship to Canadian freezer aisles. Most certification audits focus on the farm, which means the origins of the feed often rest on paperwork. Andrew also explains why crew interviews at sea rarely happen in the conditions that would let workers speak freely. Then hear what happened in 2023, when investigators published trade records linking Uyghur forced labour to seafood sold in North America and Europe. Companies cut ties with named suppliers within a day. Visibility changed behaviour, and that is where you come in: one email to your grocery chain asking whether its seafood policy covers fish feed adds to the pressure that rewrites next year's supply chain report. Takeaways Seafood certification audits mostly focus on the farm and sometimes the processor, so fishmeal sources further upstream often go unexamined Fishmeal linked to Western Sahara and to a polluting plant in The Gambia has been traced toward certified feed mills and farms supplying major retailers Seafood Watch ratings cover environmental impact; labour risk sits in a separate business tool In 2023, seafood buyers cut ties with suppliers within a day once evidence of forced labour was public Canada (S-211), the UK (modern slavery statements) and Australia require large companies to report on forced labour in supply chains One email asking "Does your seafood policy cover fish feed?" is a simple, effective action Links and Important Notes: Food for Feed investigation (The Outlaw Ocean Project): https://foodforfeed.theoutlawocean.com/ The main hub for the series you built this week around. Bait to Plate tool: https://baittoplate.theoutlawocean.com/ This lets listeners trace companies themselves, which fits the episode's "you can see the chain" message. Canada: S-211 report catalogue (Public Safety Canada): https://www.publicsafety.gc.ca/cnt/rsrcs/lbrr/ctlg/rslts-en.aspx?l=7 The government library catalogue holds filed reports under the Fighting Against Forced Labour and Child Labour in Supply Chains Act, so Canadian listeners can search their grocer directly. UK: Modern Slavery Statement Registry (GOV.UK): https://modern-slavery-statement-registry.service.gov.uk/ The government registry lets you search statements with filters. One caveat worth knowing: submission is still voluntary, and not every organisation has added its statement yet, so UK listeners may need to check the company's own website. Dr. Judy Mann-Lang / MPA Day: tease next week's episode with a link once it's live.

In a single day in March 2024, Gambian navy officers arrested eight industrial trawlers. Seven were fishing in waters reserved for local canoes, four were using illegal nets, and every one had switched off its tracking beacon. That one patrol shows a problem playing out across the global ocean. About three in four industrial fishing vessels are not publicly tracked, and many of the boats supplying the fishmeal that feeds farmed fish are among the hardest to see. In this episode of How to Protect the Ocean, Andrew Lewin follows the boats that catch the fish behind fish feed. He covers how vessels go dark, repaint and reflag, and how transshipment lets them stay at sea for months. He looks at fishmeal-linked boats working inside marine protected areas and the crew members who pay the price when help is weeks away. He also tells the story of Viktor Boshko, a deckhand who spent nearly two weeks at sea with a crushed arm before reaching a hospital. The episode also covers what's working. The Gambia partnered with Sea Shepherd to put armed patrols at sea. Indonesia became the first country to publish its fleet's tracking data on a free public map. Satellite radar now detects boats with their beacons off, and port controls are closing doors on illegal catch. Andrew ends with a simple action you can take tonight from your phone. Takeaways About 75% of the world's industrial fishing vessels are not publicly tracked, according to a 2024 Nature study. Fewer than 30% of the 2,400+ ships tied to fishmeal production have public location data, and fewer than 10% are in the UN's global vessel record. Without a permanent ID, a boat caught fishing illegally can repaint, rename and reflag, then return to fishing. Transshipment lets fishing boats offload at sea and stay out for months, out of reach of inspectors and medical help. Public tracking data, satellite radar and port controls are making it harder for dark vessels to hide. You can explore the Global Fishing Watch map for free and see who is fishing near your coast. Links shared in the episode: Global Fishing Watch map: https://globalfishingwatch.org/map Supporting links Outlaw Ocean Project, Food for Feed findings. This is the source for the fishmeal fleet stats: the 2,400 ships, the under 30% / 25% / 10% figures, the 70+ ships in MPAs, and the 50 crew deaths and injuries. https://foodforfeed.theoutlawocean.com/findings Bait to Plate. Their free tool traces fishmeal from vessel to plant to retailer. It ties in well with yesterday's "email your favourite company" action. https://baittoplate.theoutlawocean.com Outlaw Ocean, The Gambia story. This covers the 2019 patrol, the blank logbooks and the crew sleeping on the wheelhouse roof. https://foodforfeed.theoutlawocean.com/reporting/the-gambia Outlaw Ocean, Russia story. This covers Viktor Boshko and the Kalinovka. https://foodforfeed.theoutlawocean.com/reporting/russia Sea Shepherd Global. This is their report on the March 2024 arrest of eight trawlers. https://www.seashepherdglobal.org/latest-news/eight-trawlers-arrested-gambia ESA summary of the 2024 Nature study. This explains the 75% untracked finding. https://www.esa.int/Applications/Observing_the_Earth/Copernicus/Sentinel-1/Sentinel-1_and_AI_reveal_75_of_fishing_vessels_not_tracked Support Independent Podcasts: https://www.speakupforblue.com/patreon Need help with your ocean non-profit, company, or project? Get the help you need with Pisces Oceans Inc.: https://www.piscesoceans.ca Connect with Speak Up For Blue Website: https://bit.ly/3fOF3Wf Instagram: https://bit.ly/3rIaJSG TikTok: https://www.tiktok.com/@speakupforblue Twitter: https://bit.ly/3rHZxpc YouTube: www.speakupforblue.com/youtube    

On a May morning in 2017, the people of Gunjur in The Gambia woke to find their lagoon had turned red, with dead fish on the surface. Investigators traced the pollution to a fishmeal plant up the road. In this episode, Andrew Lewin follows the feed from West African beaches to farmed salmon fillets in Europe and North America, building on The Outlaw Ocean Project's five-year investigation into the fishmeal industry. Small, oily fish like sardinella and bonga are everyday protein in Senegal and The Gambia. Fishmeal plants buy them in unlimited volumes, outbid the women who have smoked and sold fish on the beach for generations, and ship the oil north to feed salmon. Andrew walks through what that means for families who struggle to put three meals on the table, for communities living beside the plants, and for fishers who risk the Atlantic crossing to the Canary Islands when the fish run out. Communities are fighting back. Abéné in southern Senegal got its plant suspended within three months of opening, and major salmon feed buyers say they have stopped sourcing from the region. Andrew closes with one action that takes two minutes: email the brand behind the farmed salmon or shrimp you buy and ask where its feed comes from. Takeaways Fishmeal and fish oil link West African food security to farmed salmon sold around the world Fishmeal plants outbid local women processors, driving up fish prices and pushing them out of work Plant wastewater and stench affect millions of people who live nearby Collapsing fish stocks are one of several factors pushing people onto the deadly Atlantic route to the Canary Islands Abéné, Senegal, used protests, petitions and a community vote to suspend a plant within three months Mowi and Skretting say they stopped sourcing West African fish oil in 2023 One email asking your seafood brand whether its feed contains West African fishmeal or fish oil adds pressure for change Links: The Outlaw Ocean Project (main site): https://theoutlawocean.com/ Food for Feed investigation (fishmeal series): https://foodforfeed.theoutlawocean.com/ Gambia reporting: https://foodforfeed.theoutlawocean.com/reporting/gambia Mauritania reporting: https://foodforfeed.theoutlawocean.com/reporting/mauritania Outlaw Ocean Substack: https://theoutlawocean.substack.com/ Support Independent Podcasts: https://www.speakupforblue.com/patreon Need help with your ocean non-profit, company, or project? Get the help you need with Pisces Oceans Inc.: https://www.piscesoceans.ca Connect with Speak Up For Blue Website: https://bit.ly/3fOF3Wf Instagram: https://bit.ly/3rIaJSG TikTok: https://www.tiktok.com/@speakupforblue Twitter: https://bit.ly/3rHZxpc YouTube: www.speakupforblue.com/youtube  

The family behind the world's largest salmon farming company built a global industry. Now one of its members is asking how it can be sustainable to grind up fish from poorer countries, ship them across the world, and feed them to salmon sold to wealthier shoppers. In episode 2048, Andrew Lewin follows farmed fish from your plate back to the fishmeal boat to answer him. More than half the seafood eaten worldwide now comes from farms, and most of it is fed. Andrew breaks down what fishmeal and fish oil are made of, why roughly a fifth of the global wild catch ends up as feed, and how forage fish declines show the strain on the small fish that tuna, seabirds, whales and coastal communities depend on. He also explains why a half-billion-dollar insect farm couldn't replace fishmeal, and how Norway cut marine ingredients from salmon feed while total wild fish use kept climbing. The fastest fix is already at the seafood counter. Mussels, oysters and clams eat plankton straight from the water and need no feed at all. This is the first of four episodes on fish feed, drawing on reporting from The Outlaw Ocean Project. This week, swap one farmed salmon or shrimp meal for farmed bivalves. Takeaways More than half of the world's seafood now comes from fish farms, and about two-thirds of farmed seafood is fed. Fishmeal is made by cooking and grinding small fish like anchoveta, sardinella and herring, and most of those fish are suitable for people to eat. Forage fish declines are hitting fisheries worldwide, including Canada's 2022 herring quota cut and Atlantic mackerel closure. Insect protein and other alternatives remain far too small to replace the fishmeal fish farms use each year. Norway cut marine ingredients in salmon feed from about 90% to 22% over 30 years, yet industry growth pushed total wild fish use higher. Farmed mussels, oysters and clams need no feed, making them one of the lowest-pressure seafood choices available. Support Independent Podcasts: https://www.speakupforblue.com/patreon Need help with your ocean non-profit, company, or project? Get the help you need with Pisces Oceans Inc.: https://www.piscesoceans.ca Connect with Speak Up For Blue Website: https://bit.ly/3fOF3Wf Instagram: https://bit.ly/3rIaJSG TikTok: https://www.tiktok.com/@speakupforblue Twitter: https://bit.ly/3rHZxpc YouTube: www.speakupforblue.com/youtube  

More than half the seafood eaten on Earth now comes from fish farms, and most of those farmed fish are raised on fishmeal made from wild-caught fish. Maya Martin, deputy editor at The Outlaw Ocean Project, joins Andrew Lewin to unpack Food for Feed, a five-year investigation that traced fishmeal from the ships that catch it, through the plants that grind it, to the farmed fish on your plate. Maya explains how forage fish like sardinella and anchoveta are pulled from waters off West Africa, Peru and Southeast Asia, often from stocks that are already overexploited and from communities that depend on them for food and work. She walks through the stench and toxic waste that surround fishmeal plants, the protests they spark, the deaths and injuries of workers, the fire-retardant chemical ethoxyquin, and fish farms built in China's Xinjiang desert whose salmon has reached US institutions. She also shows how the team's Bait to Plate tool lets anyone follow a supply chain end to end, and why third-party certifications have missed many of these problems. You'll leave knowing which seafood choices avoid the fishmeal problem, from filter-feeding shellfish to local catch you can see come in, and which organizations are pushing retailers and governments to clean up the supply chain. Content note: this episode discusses forced labour, violence, deaths at sea and migrant deaths. Explore the investigation at foodforfeed.theoutlawocean.com and baittoplate.theoutlawocean.com. Links mentioned in this episode Food for Feed investigation: https://foodforfeed.theoutlawocean.com Bait to Plate supply chain tool: https://baittoplate.theoutlawocean.com Food for Feed findings: https://foodforfeed.theoutlawocean.com/findings Methodology, including country-by-country partner groups: https://foodforfeed.theoutlawocean.com/methodology Company and certifier responses (Discussion page): https://discussion.theoutlawocean.com/food-for-feed The Outlaw Ocean Project: https://theoutlawocean.com Amnesty International: https://www.amnesty.org Greenpeace: https://www.greenpeace.org Oceana: https://oceana.org Sea Shepherd: https://seashepherd.org The Outlaw Ocean Project's New York Times follow-up on eating seafood sustainably: https://www.nytimes.com/2026/10/09/briefing/fish-food.html Previous HTPTO episode with Dr. Marine Cusa (Oceana) on fishmeal:  Fish Feed in Aquaculture: https://www.speakupforblue.com/show/speak-up-for-the-ocean-blue/podcast-28/ The Squid You Eat is a Mystery: https://www.speakupforblue.com/show/speak-up-for-the-ocean-blue/podcast-82/ Takeaways More than half of the world's seafood comes from aquaculture, and more than two-thirds of farmed seafood depends on fishmeal and fish oil from wild fish At least half of the species landed by fishmeal vessels assessed in the investigation are overexploited or worse Roughly 90% of the catch used for fishmeal is edible for people, and in West Africa sardinella is a staple protein and a livelihood More than 9.5 million people live within a mile of a fishmeal plant, and the investigation documented at least 80 incidents of civil unrest tied to the industry Over half of more than 550 seafood companies making strong sustainability claims had documented crimes or concerns in their supply chains Farmed shellfish like mussels, oysters and clams need no feed, which makes them a lower-impact choice Your action: look up one farmed seafood product you buy on Bait to Plate and see where its feed came from  

Picture a big sign over the seafood counter promising sustainable fishing, with a fish every independent guide says to avoid sitting on ice right below it. In most countries nobody broke a rule, because the word "sustainable" on seafood has no legal definition. In this final episode of our sustainable seafood week, Andrew Lewin walks you through how to see past that sign and choose seafood you can feel good about. You'll learn how to use the eco-labels and seafood guides that have already done the research for you, including the Marine Stewardship Council's blue tick for wild seafood, the Aquaculture Stewardship Council label for farmed seafood, and regional guides like Seafood Watch, Ocean Wise, the Good Fish Guide and GoodFish. Andrew explains why tuna can be a best choice or one to avoid depending on species, ocean and gear, how to ask the person behind the counter without making them the target, why "local" on vacation deserves a second look, why eating invasive lionfish and blue catfish helps, and how to think about shark on the menu. Then Andrew answers the voice in your head that says one shopper can't matter. The story of Louisiana shrimp shows how a Seafood Watch rating, the businesses that follow it, and the customers behind them pushed a state to start enforcing sea turtle protections again. Your next seafood purchase is part of that same pressure. Pre-order David Shiffman's book Why Sustainable Seafood Matters using the link in the show notes. Takeaways "Sustainable" and "responsibly sourced" have no standard legal definition on seafood in the US or Canada, so treat store signs as marketing Look for the MSC blue tick on wild seafood and the ASC label on farmed seafood, and use your region's seafood guide The same species can be a best choice or one to avoid depending on where and how it was caught Ask the counter staff politely; if they can't tell you where or how a fish was caught, choose something else Eating invasive species like lionfish and blue catfish helps native ecosystems In 2013 Seafood Watch red-listed Louisiana shrimp over a law blocking sea turtle protections, and by 2015 the state repealed that law Your action: download your country's seafood guide and look up one item before your next purchase Pre-Order Dr. David Shiffman's book called "Why Sustainable Seafood Matters" Support Independent Podcasts: https://www.speakupforblue.com/patreon Need help with your ocean non-profit, company, or project? Get the help you need with Pisces Oceans Inc.: https://www.piscesoceans.ca Connect with Speak Up For Blue Website: https://bit.ly/3fOF3Wf Instagram: https://bit.ly/3rIaJSG TikTok: https://www.tiktok.com/@speakupforblue Twitter: https://bit.ly/3rHZxpc YouTube: www.speakupforblue.com/youtube  

Off the south coast of England, about 100 kilometres out, sits Haig Fras, a granite reef covered in jewel anemones and cup corals. For years it was protected on paper, yet heavy fishing gear could still drag across it. In March 2024, that finally changed. In this episode, Andrew Lewin explains why where we fish matters as much as how much we fish, and what it takes to turn a line on a map into real protection. Andrew breaks down the difference between midwater and bottom trawls and puts the damage shown in the recent Ocean documentary into context. Bottom trawling lands about a quarter of the world's wild-caught seafood, and the impact depends heavily on where it happens. He walks through the research on paper parks, where trawling was more intense inside European marine protected areas than outside them, and the five features that make an MPA deliver results. He also explains how England used public consultations to ban bottom-towed gear over sensitive reefs, and why the same place-based logic applies to fish farms. The episode closes with a simple action anyone can take. The next time your government proposes or reviews a marine protected area, submit a public comment supporting rules that keep bottom trawling off sensitive habitats. Consultations count comments, and the rules written there decide whether a park is real. Takeaways Bottom trawling supplies about a quarter of wild-caught seafood, and its impact depends on the habitat being trawled. Regions where less than 10% of the seafloor was trawled almost always had sustainably fished stocks. In a study of 727 EU MPAs, 59% were commercially trawled, and trawling was 38% more intense inside them than outside. MPAs that are no-take, enforced, older than 10 years, larger than 100 km², and isolated deliver far more fish and sharks. England's 2024 byelaw banned bottom-towed gear over reefs in 13 more offshore MPAs, including Haig Fras. Aquaculture now produces 51% of the world's aquatic animals. Look for ASC or BAP labels and seafood guide ratings. Submitting a public comment during MPA consultations directly shapes the rules. Pre-Order Dr. David Shiffman's book: "Why Sustainable Seafood Matter" Support Independent Podcasts: https://www.speakupforblue.com/patreon Need help with your ocean non-profit, company, or project? Get the help you need with Pisces Oceans Inc.: https://www.piscesoceans.ca Connect with Speak Up For Blue Website: https://bit.ly/3fOF3Wf Instagram: https://bit.ly/3rIaJSG TikTok: https://www.tiktok.com/@speakupforblue Twitter: https://bit.ly/3rHZxpc YouTube: www.speakupforblue.com/youtube  

A Kemp's ridley sea turtle, the most endangered sea turtle on Earth, gets swept into a shrimp trawl. It hits a metal grid, slides out through a flap in the net, and swims away. That small trapdoor, the turtle excluder device, is one of the biggest success stories in fisheries management, and in late August 2026 a US federal appeals court upheld the rule extending it to skimmer trawl boats 40 feet and longer. In this episode, marine biologist Andrew Lewin walks through the bycatch fixes that are working and the fights still underway. You'll hear why North Atlantic right whales get tangled in lobster and crab rope, how weak rope and ropeless gear could solve it, and why the US House just voted to extend a pause on new whale rules to 2035. Andrew also explains what the dolphin-safe label on canned tuna actually covers and why dolphin deaths in that fishery fell from hundreds of thousands a year to roughly a thousand. Every number in this story depends on someone counting. Andrew draws on his own time as a marine mammal observer to explain why independent fisheries observers matter, the risks they face, and how electronic monitoring is changing the job. This episode is part of a week on sustainable seafood. Pre-order Dr. David Shiffman's book Why Sustainable Seafood Matters using the link in the show notes. Takeaways Turtle excluder devices must prove 97% effective at excluding sea turtles in testing, with little loss of shrimp A loophole for small skimmer trawl boats let turtles keep drowning; a 2019 rule requires TEDs on boats 40 feet and longer, and the Fifth Circuit upheld it in 2026 Rope running from traps to surface buoys is the main entanglement risk for North Atlantic right whales, estimated at about 384 animals Weak rope and on-demand (ropeless) gear are the two leading fixes for lobster and crab fisheries Dolphin-safe means no nets were set on dolphins and none were killed or seriously injured in that set Pole-and-line, troll, and handline tuna carry the least bycatch When you choose the gear, you choose the bycatch Pre-Order Dr. David Shiffman's book "Why Sustainable Seafood Matters"

Five centuries ago, explorers off Newfoundland described cod so plentiful that a weighted basket lowered into the sea came back full. By July 2, 1992, so few remained that Canada shut the northern cod fishery overnight. About 30,000 people lost their work in what became the largest single layoff in Canadian history. In this first episode of a week-long sustainable seafood series, Andrew tells the story of how the collapse happened and how slowly the cod came back. Andrew then breaks down the words that cause the most confusion in fisheries headlines: overfishing, overfished, depleted, and fully fished. Using the FAO's 2025 review of 2,570 fish stocks, he explains why 35.5% of stocks being overfished is a serious problem, why 77.2% of the fish actually landed comes from sustainable stocks, and how lumping categories together produces the misleading claim that 90% of fish stocks are in trouble. The episode closes with what good fisheries management looks like, rebuilding wins like Pacific bluefin tuna, and a cautious look at northern cod's return to the healthy zone as quotas climb. Your assignment: pick the fish you eat most and look up its stock status this week. Pre-order Dr. David Shiffman's Why Sustainable Seafood Matters using the link in the show notes. Takeaways Northern cod collapsed in 1992 after decades of industrial overfishing, and the moratorium lasted 32 years Overfishing is an action happening now; overfished means the population is already too small "Fully fished" (maximally sustainably fished) is the management target and a healthy outcome 35.5% of assessed stocks are overfished, while 77.2% of landed fish comes from sustainable stocks Good management combines science-based catch limits, bycatch and habitat rules, solid data, and fishers at the table Northern cod reached the healthy zone in 2026, but rapid quota increases still worry scientists Check your favourite fish on Seafood Watch, the MSC, Ocean Wise, or your national fisheries agency Pre-Order "Why Sustainable Seafood Matters" by Dr David Shiffman now Support Independent Podcasts: https://www.speakupforblue.com/patreon Need help with your ocean non-profit, company, or project? Get the help you need with Pisces Oceans Inc.: https://www.piscesoceans.ca Connect with Speak Up For Blue Website: https://bit.ly/3fOF3Wf Instagram: https://bit.ly/3rIaJSG TikTok: https://www.tiktok.com/@speakupforblue Twitter: https://bit.ly/3rHZxpc YouTube: www.speakupforblue.com/youtube  

You want to eat seafood the right way. Then you hit the seafood counter and face a wall of labels, a sign promising "sustainable practices," and an employee who has no idea where the tuna came from. Add documentaries like Seaspiracy telling you to quit fish entirely, and it's tempting to give up and buy whatever looks good. Unsustainable fishing is the biggest threat to marine biodiversity, so those choices carry real weight. In this episode, Andrew's good friend Dr. David Shiffman joins the show to talk about his new book, Why Sustainable Seafood Matters. David spent two years on the Marine Stewardship Council's research team, and he wrote this book to answer the question audiences kept asking on his Why Sharks Matter book tour: what can I do as a consumer? He breaks down the difference between overfishing, overfished, and fully fished, and shows how those numbers get twisted. He explains what the dolphin-safe label guarantees, why North Atlantic right whales put Gulf of Maine lobster on the avoid list, and where bottom trawling can be done responsibly. He also covers proven fixes like turtle excluder devices, ropeless fishing gear, and camera monitoring on fishing boats. You'll walk away knowing how to use Seafood Watch, MSC, Ocean Wise, and the Aquaculture Stewardship Council, and what to realistically expect at your grocery store. Every claim in David's book comes with directions to the data, so you can check it yourself and buy with confidence. Takeaways Unsustainable fishing practices are the leading threat to marine biodiversity, including overfishing, bycatch, and habitat destruction. "Overfishing" is an action and "overfished" is a population's state. "Fully fished" is the management goal. "Sustainable" has no legal definition on seafood packaging, so trusted third-party guides matter. Dolphin safe means nets weren't set around dolphins to find tuna. Pole-and-line tuna avoids nearly all bycatch. Bottom trawling is destructive in sensitive habitats and can be managed responsibly on sandy or muddy seafloors. Weak rope, ropeless traps, and turtle excluder devices solve bycatch while fisheries keep operating. Look for MSC, ASC, or BAP labels, and check Seafood Watch or Ocean Wise when a label is missing. Ask seafood counter staff nicely. They're rarely the problem. Your choices create real pressure when millions of shoppers make them together. Pre-Order David's Book