187. OLIVIER CRESP ~ How to Create a Blockbuster Fragrance (over, and over, and over again).

Wait wait, Gap Dream was inspired by what? The initial concept for the collection began as... soaps? All this, and so many more amazing insider stories on the making of THE ICONIC 90s GAP SCENTS (Dream, Heaven, Om & Grass), with the visionary behind it all: Creative Exec and Entrepreneur, Gary McNatton! FRAGS MENTIONED:Diptyque Lazulio (SOTD), Jorum Studio Pony Boy, Diptyque Corail Oscuro, Chris Collins African Rooibos, Heath London, Creed Aventus, CdG 2 Man, Gap Dream, The Body Shop Rain, Van Cleef First, Molton Brown, Antonia’s Flowers, Giorgio, Dior Poison, YSL Opium, Gap: Om, Dream; Antonia’s Flowers, Hudson Grace OriginalSMELL CLUB: spookysmellclub.eventbrite.com

Born with a rare hereditary condition called hyperosmia, Joy Milne possesses a superhuman sense of smell—one so acute it led her to make a groundbreaking medical discovery: Parkinson's Disease has a smell. How did she do it? What might it mean for the future of diagnostic testing? And what other diseases and human conditions have scents?(SPOILER ALERT: romantic compatibility is one of them!)FOLLOW: @perfumeroompod | perfumeroom.substack.comSOTD: Maison D'Etto Noisette

Olivier Cresp, DSM-Firmenich Master Perfumer, Founder of Akro by Oliver Cresp, and literal inventor of the gourmand (!) is BACK in the Perfume Room! (AN HONOR!) Today, he reflects on his oeuvre including his signature, palette, and unique approach to perfumery. We discuss how new advances in technology will impact past and future creations, AI and its role in perfumery, how his creative approach differs for his own brand versus client work, and of course we discuss the newest Akro launch: Crush!WATCH THE FULL EPISODE ON ⁠SUBSTACK⁠ THIS FRIDAY!FRAG MENTIONED:Akro Haze, D&G Light Blue, Akro Crush (SOTD), Light Blue (2025), Akro Rise, Mugler Angel, Akro: Smile, Glow, BakeTRY CRUSH! (10% LuckyScent orders $40+ w/ code perfumeroom10)

AI content creators, my perfume collection (!), and the bottles I am eyeing right now all ahead in today's quick solo catch-up! SOTD: Commodity Milk Orchid :) FRAGS MENTIONED:Commodity Milk Orchid, Le Labo Santal 33, Diptyque Orpheon, Le Labo Gaiac 10, Byredo  Mojave Ghost, Diptyque: Orphéon, Vetyverio (EDT); Fzotic Vetiverissimo, Escentric Molecules Molecule 01 + Iris, Naomi Goodsir Iris Cendre, Jovoy Musc Pallas, Courreges Hyper Musc, Sana Jardin Vanilla Nomad, Diptyque Eau Duelle

PSA: You Don’t Have to Go to France to Study Fragrance!!In fact, there’s an educational, state-of-the-art fragrance lab right in NYC—at FIT, home to the country’s only collegiate Cosmetics & Fragrance Marketing program. Today’s guest, Virginia Bonofiglio, is the Associate Chairperson (and professor) leading it all. Having held roles in just about every position in this industry over the span of her forty-plus year-long fragrance career (with many accolades and awards along the way), Virginia brings a rare real-world perspective to her classroom.Today we chat about her own serendipitous path to perfumery, she shares what students learn in the program, the wide range of careers in fragrance, and how you, yes you, can find your perfect path in this industry. FRAGS MENTIONED:Ex Nihilo Santal Calling, Escentric Molecules Molecule 04, Hermes Terre d'Hermes, DS & Durga IDK What, The Maker Lover, Elorea Gentle Shower, Bulgari Eau Thé Vert, Paco Rabanne Calandre, Coco Madamoiselle, Cabochard, Miss Dior, Joy Jean Patou, Giorgio, Boucheron, Bijan Bijan, Baccarat RougeLEARN MORE ABOUT FIT'S COSMETICS AND FRAGRANCE MARKETING PROGRAM!FOLLOW: @fitfragrance

Award-winning independent perfumer, multidisciplinary artist, teacher, and Perfume Papa Michael Nordstrand is in the Perfume Room this week. Today, we discuss the 3 perfumes he thinks everyone should smell, his favorite perfumer, finding peace and harmony with malodorous materials, fragrance concentration and other lies we tell ourselves, learning and then teaching the craft of perfumery, his burgeoning brand [Mythologist] and GOING METHOD.FOLLOW: @michaelnordstrandperfumer | @mythologiststudioA special thanks to our episode sponsor, The Raconteur!SOTD: Gap Dream!!FRAGS MENTIONED:Gap: Dream, Om, Grass, So Pink; Clinique Calyx, Parfums de Coeur Malibu Musk, Bath & Body Works Freesia, Louis Vuitton Étoile Filante, Hermès Barénia, Senyoko Paris, Lancôme La Vie Est Belle, LVEB L’Elixir; Hilde Soliani Fraaagola Saalaaata, Hermès Barénia Intense, Diptyque: Vinaigre de Toilette, Drogerie; Headspace Tubereuse, TALE Bad Lily, Mythologist

agustine zegers, Chilean olfactive artist and creator of agar olfactory and speculative scent lab, directs experimental scent spaces focused on expanding our sensorial tools to navigate a planet in transition.With perfumes that boast notes like hot fax machine, Mac carcass, mushroom gills, and yeasting dough, their work begs the bigger question: what is perfume and what are its functions?FOLLOW: @agar.olfactory | @speculativescentFRAGS MENTIONED:The Raconteur Daintree Rain Tea, No Tell Motel, Lord Lamington; Oddity Naked Dance, Zoologist Squid, CKOne, Clinique Happy, CdG Wonderwood, agar olfactory damp, cero, bit bit , cereale, matsu musk, damp; Zoologist Bee, The Zoo Club Design, Loewe WasabiThank you to this month's sponsor, The Raconteur!10% OFF THE RACONTEUR |code 'emma10' www.stele.shop

Givaudan VP Perfumer Rodrigo Flores-Roux generously returns to the Perfume Room to offer a definitive roadmap to the past, present, and future of perfume. Bookmark this ep. You'll come back to it. Rodrigo is a fragrance genealogist of sorts, tracing your favorite perfumes’ parents, grandparents, and great-grandparents. He offers a rare perfumer's POV on the current landscape: What’s trending? Why? What even qualifies as a trend? Should we care? And what's happening in the world today that will shape how fragrance smells tomorrow?WATCH THE FLORSTALGIA PANEL (coming this Fri)LISTEN TO EP. 136 (linked below)THANK YOU TO THIS MONTH'S SPONSOR THE RACONTEUR! 10% off full bottles of The Raconteur @ Stéle: code 'emma10'FRAGS MENTIONED:Sol de Janeiro, Phlur, Burberry Goddess, 27 87 Hakuna Matata, Mary Kay Velocity, Marc Jacobs Daisy Wild, Vacation Inc, Arquiste Tropical, Cire Trudon Merida, ARQUISTE Esencia de El Palacio Guayabos, Chanel No. 5, Guerlain Shalimar, Lanvin Arpège, Schiaparelli Shocking, Robert Piguet Bandit, Balmain Vent Vert, Carven Ma Griffe, Givenchy L’Interdit, Nina Ricci L’Air du Temps, Madame Rochas, Rabanne Calandre, Eau de Lancome, Eau de Patou, Eau de Guerlain, Estée Lauder Estée Super, Revlon Charlie, YSL Opium, Estée Lauder Youth Dew, Balenciaga Prelude, Estée Lauder Cinnabar, Fendi, Giorgio, Dior Poison, Ralph Lauren Polo, Guy Laroche Drakkar Noir, Davidoff Cool Water, New West, Calvin Klein Escape, Issey Miyake L’Eau D’Issey, Mugler Angel, Tom Ford Oud Wood, Donna Karan Black Cashmere, Clinique Happy, Isabell Calla, Ungaro Diva, Florstalgia: Violet, Carnation; YSL Paris, Eauso Vert Fruto Oscuro, Le Galion Bourrasque, Thom Browne: Vetyver & Brut, Vetyver & Rose; Xinu: OroNardo, Copala; ARQUISTE: A Grove By The Sea, Tropical; Roberto Greco Porter Sa Peau

Cécile Zarokian is one of the greatest independent perfumers of all time, but she wasn’t always independent, and she hadn’t always planned on becoming a perfumer, either. Today, she’s in the Perfume Room sharing how she’s redefined the rules of the game, turned her greatest challenges into strengths, and found the CZP edge—her proverbial captive if you will—that helps her compete with (and win against) the industry’s biggest players.FRAGS MENTIONED:Yves Rocher, Lancome Magie Noir, Acqua di Parma, Chloe, Amouage Epic Woman, Granado Bossa, Electimuss Vanilla Edesia, Amouage Attar collection, Nishani AniSOTD: St. Rose Juliet in WhiteThank you to this month's sponsor ⁠The Raconteur⁠! emma10 for 10% off Raconteur bottles @ ⁠Stele⁠ (now - 7/31)SUBSCRIBE: perfumeroom.substack.com for Smell Club updates!FOLLOW CÉCILE:IG: @cecilezarokianparfumeurTikTok: @cecilezarokian

IMAGINE THIS: You're a partner at one of the world's top law firms. It's what you've worked towards your entire career. Would you walk away from it all for the chance to chase your true creative calling? Craig Andrade, founder of Aussie niche fragrance brand, The Raconteur, did. This is his story.10% LISTENER DISCOUNT! ⁠stele.nyc⁠ | code: emma10(valid (on The Raconteur full bottles only) through end of July)FRAGS MENTIONED:The Raconteur: Raconteur 2X, No Tell Motel; TLY 5755, Raconteur: KILLR VANILLR, Pavlova Kasanova, Miss Macadamia, Lord Lamington, Daintree Rain TeaTHANK YOU TO THIS MONTH'S SPONSOR, THE RACONTEUR!!!Spotify listeners: vote in poll for which scent most intrigues you (I will do a full review on the top-voted scent)!DISCLAIMER: This episode’s guest is also this month’s sponsor. The sponsorship was arranged after the guest was booked. Sponsorships have no bearing on editorial content. While this episode includes paid promotional content for the sponsor’s products, all opinions expressed are entirely my own.