Beyond the Oxygen: Training for Altitude with Exercise Physiologist Nick Hart

In this episode of the Finding Elevation podcast, Lisa Thompson and Tom Cuddy delve into the physiological adaptations that occur when ascending to high altitudes. They discuss the immediate and chronic changes in the body, including alterations in breathing, blood composition, and the role of CO2. The conversation also highlights genetic factors influencing altitude adaptation, insights from Sherpa and Tibetan populations, and practical tips for acclimatization. Additionally, they explore the importance of training for CO2 tolerance and assessing fitness levels for successful high-altitude experiences. In this conversation, Tom and Lisa discuss the intricacies of preparing for high-altitude climbs, focusing on physiological responses, training strategies, and recovery methods. They explore the benefits of hypoxic training, the importance of acclimatization, and the role of nitric oxide in enhancing performance. The discussion emphasizes the need for a balanced approach to training and recovery, particularly when preparing for challenging climbs like Everest or Aconcagua. Takeaways Altitude affects every system in the body. Breathing rate and volume increase at high altitude. CO2 management is crucial for performance. Acute mountain sickness can result from low CO2 levels. EPO plays a significant role in red blood cell production. Genetics influence individual responses to altitude. Tibetan and Andean populations have adapted differently to high altitude. Training for CO2 tolerance can enhance performance. Ventilation capacity is critical for high altitude success. Assessing fitness levels can predict altitude adaptation.  Understanding your body's response to altitude is crucial. Hypoxic tents can aid in acclimatization but require commitment. Training load must be balanced with recovery to optimize performance. Nitric oxide plays a significant role in enhancing blood flow and performance. Acclimatization requires consistent exposure to higher elevations. The timeline for acclimatization is critical for successful climbs. Recovery strategies, including oxygen use, are essential after high-altitude climbs. Individual responses to altitude can vary significantly among climbers. Maintaining fitness is foundational for high-altitude success. Respecting the mountain's conditions is vital for safety and success. Engagement Link Tom’s Coaching Practice: http://calibratedcoaching.com/ Two routes to functional adaptation: Tibetan and Andean high-altitude natives: https://drive.google.com/file/d/1FRp9PNXrzB9j4CsOZGa5so3aLaUf_Zlv/view?usp=sharing Nitric oxide in adaptation to altitude: https://drive.google.com/file/d/1a1KusUQuYFejr6BHDJ6W3nx-UVHDqK8g/view?usp=sharing       

In this episode of the Finding Elevation podcast, join me and Jacque as we discuss various aspects of mountaineering, including personal journeys, getting started in the sport, exploring lesser-known peaks, affordability, sun protection, the impact of cold therapy on strength training, and the importance of mindset in climbing. We share valuable tips and insights for both beginners and experienced climbers, emphasizing the significance of preparation, practice, and mental resilience in outdoor adventures. Takeaways Everyone's journey in mountaineering is unique. Starting with simple hikes can build confidence. Joining local mountain clubs can enhance learning. Courses and guides provide valuable skills and knowledge. Practice skills regularly to ensure readiness. Seek affordable local options for climbing trips. Sunscreen and lip protection are crucial in high altitudes. Cold therapy can hinder muscle growth if not timed correctly. Mental preparation is as important as physical training. Visualization and positive self-talk can enhance performance. Engagement Link Cold therapy research: https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/articles/PMC9518606/  Outer U: https://outeru.com/ – face glove  Dermatone https://www.dermatone.com/  Guide Companies:  Khangri Experience : https://www.khangriexperience.com/about  Madison Mountaineering: https://madisonmountaineering.com/  Mountain Madness: https://mountainmadness.com/ Climbing the Seven Summits: https://climbingthesevensummits.com/ Summit Climb: https://www.summitclimb.com/ (I did my mountaineering course with Dan Mazur) Colorado Mountain Club: https://www.cmc.org/ Wasatch Mountain Guides: https://wasatchmountainguides.com/  Utah Mountain Adventures: https://www.utahmountainadventures.com/  San Juan Colorado Mountain Guides: https://mtnguide.net/  Nepal: https://www.thirdrockadventures.com/ (Gadul Tamang was my guide and he was AMAZING) https://www.himalayanglacier.com/  Kilimanjaro: https://eco-africaclimbing.com/ (they have an all women’s climb)    Avalanche training:  FREE Avalanche intro course: https://www.kbyg.org/  Utah Avalanche Center (Avy education): https://utahavalanchecenter.org/  Colorado Avalanche Info Center (avy education): https://avalanche.state.co.us/    Facebook hiking/mountaineering groups: Wasatch Peak Baggers: https://www.facebook.com/groups/639286149434063  Wasatch Mountain Club: https://www.facebook.com/groups/92268557972  Utah Women on the Ascent: https://www.facebook.com/groups/2671281463103052  Utah Backcountry Ski Touring: https://www.facebook.com/groups/999509393504378  Colorado 14ers: https://www.facebook.com/groups/82338447841 CO 14er Ladies: https://www.facebook.com/groups/618505908320639  CO 14er Sloth Ladies (slower hikers group): https://www.facebook.com/groups/185321063068648   PNW Mountaineers: https://www.facebook.com/groups/507746076069464  Women of Mountaineering: https://www.facebook.com/groups/282106230188273/  Jacque’s youtube channel: https://www.youtube.com/@highelevationadventure  Jacque’s insta: https://www.instagram.com/jacque.tietjen/   

In this conversation of Finding Elevation, host Lisa Thompson interviews Nick, an exercise physiologist specializing in hypoxic training. They discuss the physiological changes that occur at altitude, the adaptations that can be achieved through hypoxic training, and the importance of pre-acclimatization strategies. Nick emphasizes the role of genetics in altitude tolerance and the need for proper assessment and preparation for climbers. They also explore different hypoxic training methods, common mistakes made during acclimatization, and provide advice for first-time climbers. The conversation concludes with reflections on the future of hypoxic training and personal stories from Nick's experiences in the climbing world. Takeaways Hypoxic training stimulates red blood cell growth and enhances oxygen efficiency. Physiological changes at altitude include adaptations in blood saturation and oxygen transport. Pre-acclimatization can reduce the risk of altitude sickness for climbers. Genetic factors play a significant role in an individual's tolerance to altitude. Proper assessment of risk is crucial for climbers preparing for high altitudes. Common mistakes include underestimating the challenge of climbing and overexerting during training. Eating, drinking, sleeping, and pacing are essential for success at altitude. Hypoxic training can be done through prolonged exposure or intermittent exposure methods. It's important to match altitude training to the specific goals of the climber. The mountains remain a place of mystery and respect, despite advances in technology.   

Anthony Lorubbio shares his journey from aspiring professional athlete to breathwork coach. He discusses how he got into breathwork and the power it has to change our state of mind and body. He emphasizes the importance of breathing through the nose, breathing slowly, and breathing low into the diaphragm for optimal breath efficiency. Anthony also introduces his high altitude breathwork training program, which helps mountain athletes acclimate and perform better at high altitudes. In this conversation, Anthony Lorubbio discusses the high altitude simulation breathwork training program and its benefits for improving performance at high altitudes. The program focuses on two key areas: training carbon dioxide tolerance and increasing hemoglobin concentration. By manually changing chemoreceptor sensitivity to carbon dioxide, individuals can feel less breathless and breathe more optimally through the nose. Increasing hemoglobin concentration leads to a higher VO2 max and improved oxygen uptake. The five-week training program includes exercises for proper breathing mechanics, high altitude simulation breathwork protocols, and respiratory muscle training. Maintenance recommendations include regular breath assessments and the practice of breathe light exercises. Takeaways Breathing through the nose, breathing slowly, and breathing low into the diaphragm are key for optimal breath efficiency. There is a mismatch between our bodies' adaptation to natural environments and the modern world we live in. Anthony's high altitude breathwork training program is a pre-acclimatization addition to mountain athletes' training, helping them improve their breath efficiency and respiratory muscle strength. Proper breathing mechanics, acclimatization time, and training are all important for mountain athletes to perform better at high altitudes. High altitude simulation breathwork training can improve performance at high altitudes by training carbon dioxide tolerance and increasing hemoglobin concentration. Feeling breathless at high altitudes is often due to increased carbon dioxide levels, not lack of oxygen. The five-week training program includes exercises for proper breathing mechanics, high altitude simulation breathwork protocols, and respiratory muscle training. Maintenance recommendations include regular breath assessments and the practice of breathe light exercises. Breathing through the nose, breathing slow, and breathing low are key principles for optimal breathing. Engagement Link The Story of the Human Body by Daniel E. Lieberman Oxygen Advantage Buckle Up with Simon and Brian: An Ultrarunning Conversation (Ep. #20 with Anthony Lorubbio from Recal) Learn How to Train for Altitude with Breathwork Instagram: Recal Travel  Instagram: Anthony Lorubbio    

Dr. Torrie Higgins, a performance coach, shares her journey and expertise in working with high-performing individuals in intense environments. She emphasizes the importance of mindset and how it can be trained and cultivated. Torrie discusses the use of neuroscience in developing coaching programs and tools, and highlights the significance of understanding chronobiology and designing one's day for peak performance. She also emphasizes the need for regular mindset practice and the importance of questioning negative beliefs and challenging the internal voice of anxiety. In this conversation, Dr. Torrie Higgins discusses the importance of managing limiting beliefs and fears in order to build confidence and resilience. She suggests writing down these limiting beliefs and double-clicking on them to gain distance and objectivity. Dr. Higgins also introduces the concept of the flexibility sequence, which involves asking oneself what the situation demands, what tools are needed, and creating a feedback loop to determine if the chosen tools are effective. She emphasizes the need for vulnerability and open communication in high-performance environments. Additionally, Dr. Higgins highlights the significance of managing energy and the three types of energy: physical, cognitive, and emotional. She recommends reframing discomfort cues and optimizing recovery breaks to maximize performance. Takeaways Mindset is a core belief system that shapes how we process the world around us. A resilient mindset includes optimism, a challenge orientation, and confidence in coping with stress. Understanding chronobiology and designing one's day based on optimal energy levels can enhance productivity and performance. Effective recovery breaks should activate the parasympathetic nervous system, drive a physiological shift, and create a cognitive shift. Mindset cultivation is an ongoing practice that requires questioning negative beliefs and regularly recalibrating. Companies are recognizing the importance of mindset and are creating cultures that allow for autonomy in designing workdays. Write down limiting beliefs and fears to gain distance and objectivity. Double-click on limiting beliefs to explore and challenge them. Use the flexibility sequence to determine what the situation demands and which tools to deploy. Create a feedback loop to assess the effectiveness of chosen tools. Practice vulnerability and open communication in high-performance environments. Manage physical, cognitive, and emotional energy. Reframe discomfort cues to change their meaning. Optimize recovery breaks to recharge mentally and physically. Engagement Link Ultraspeaking Podcast  The Edge Sport and Performance Psychology Consulting The End of Trauma by George Bonanno

Aconcagua is the highest peak in the southern and western hemispheres, located on the border between Argentina and Chile. It is a popular mountain for climbers who want to summit all seven summits or challenge themselves at high elevation. There are two main routes: the normal route and the 360 route. The normal route is straightforward but still challenging, taking about three weeks to complete. The 360 route is longer and less popular, but offers a more solitary and scenic experience. Climbers should be prepared for harsh weather, heavy packs, and rocky terrain. Training and acclimatization are key to success on Aconcagua. Takeaways Aconcagua is the highest peak in the southern and western hemispheres, located on the border between Argentina and Chile. There are two main routes to climb Aconcagua: the normal route and the 360 route. Climbers should be prepared for harsh weather, heavy packs, and rocky terrain. Training and acclimatization are important for success on Aconcagua. Engagement Link Aconcagua: A Climbing Guide by Ralph Lee Hopkins with this hyperlink: https://amzn.to/4g3wogw Aconcagua Training Guide: https://www.alpineathletics.net/multiweek-expedition  

Jason Widup, a marketing advisor and mountaineer, shares his journey into mountaineering and the lessons he learned along the way. He initially turned to hiking and mountaineering as a way to cope with stress and anxiety. After a failed attempt at Mount Rainier, he realized the impact of marijuana on his fitness and made the decision to quit. He incorporated meditation, breathing exercises, and reading books on breathing techniques into his daily routine to manage anxiety. With improved fitness and mental resilience, he successfully summited Mount Rainier on his second attempt. Jason Widup shares his experiences with mountaineering and how it has impacted his personal and professional life. He discusses the mental challenges he faced during training and dealing with injuries, as well as the importance of self-improvement and pushing boundaries. Jason also talks about sharing his journey with others and inspiring them to pursue their own goals. He emphasizes the need to be self-sufficient in the mountains and the desire to continue exploring and learning. Takeaways Hiking and mountaineering can be effective ways to reduce stress and anxiety. Quitting marijuana can have a positive impact on fitness and overall well-being. Incorporating meditation and breathing exercises into daily routines can help manage anxiety. Reading books on breathing techniques can provide valuable insights and improve mental resilience. Improving fitness and mental resilience can lead to successful mountaineering expeditions. Mountaineering can have a profound impact on personal and professional growth Dealing with mental challenges and injuries is an important part of the journey Sharing experiences and inspiring others can be a rewarding aspect of mountaineering Continuously pushing boundaries and pursuing self-improvement is key Becoming self-sufficient in the mountains is a goal for many climbers Engagement Link https://www.linkedin.com/in/jasonwidup/ Breath by James Nestor: https://amzn.to/4dCVMYp  

Rebecca Dent, a dietitian specializing in sports nutrition, shares her journey into working with endurance sports and mountain athletes. She emphasizes the importance of planning and practicing a nutrition strategy for optimal performance. Some common mistakes athletes make include not planning and practicing their nutrition and hydration strategy, forgetting to eat and drink during activity, and starting to eat and drink too late. Dent recommends creating a nutrition strategy per hour of moving time and focusing on carbohydrates as the primary fuel source. She also discusses the importance of recovery nutrition and how to recover from bonking. In this conversation, Rebecca Dent discusses hydration and nutrition strategies for endurance athletes. She emphasizes the importance of staying hydrated during training and provides tips for maintaining optimal hydration levels. Rebecca also addresses the topic of intermittent fasting and explains why it is not recommended for athletes. She highlights the natural increase in fat oxidation that occurs through endurance training and advises against the need for fasting training. Overall, Rebecca provides valuable insights into the role of hydration and nutrition in optimizing performance for endurance athletes. Takeaways Plan and practice a nutrition strategy for optimal performance in endurance sports and mountain activities. Common mistakes include not planning and practicing nutrition, forgetting to eat and drink, and starting to eat and drink too late. Focus on carbohydrates as the primary fuel source during activity. Recovery nutrition is important for replenishing energy and supporting muscle repair. If you experience bonking, consume fast-acting carbohydrates and back it up with more substantial food. Staying hydrated during training is crucial for optimal performance and energy levels. Carrying a sports drink and regularly sipping on it can help maintain energy levels and offset dehydration. Intermittent fasting is not recommended for endurance athletes as it can lead to negative health and performance consequences. Endurance training naturally increases fat oxidation rates, eliminating the need for fasting training. Focus on fueling your training and giving your body time to adapt and improve. Engagement Link https://www.rebeccadent.co.uk https://www.instagram.com/high_performance_dietitian/ Sweat Test: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kHZPWGHHh20

This episode of the Finding Elevation podcast focuses on the letdown effect that athletes often experience after achieving a peak moment, such as summiting a mountain. The letdown effect is characterized by a decline in physical and mental well-being, including symptoms like apathy and fatigue. The lack of routine and the loss of the close-knit team dynamic contribute to this feeling of letdown. The host provides several tools to help athletes work through the letdown effect, including taking a break, focusing on good nutrition and sleep, journaling, staying connected with the climbing community, practicing mindfulness and meditation, and planning the next adventure. Takeaways The letdown effect is a common experience for athletes after achieving a peak moment. Taking a break and giving yourself permission to rest is important for recovery. Good nutrition and sleep are essential for physical and mental well-being. Journaling and staying connected with the climbing community can help with emotional and mental recovery. Practicing mindfulness and meditation can support mental fitness. Planning the next adventure can provide motivation and help overcome the letdown.  

Mount Rainier is the highest peak in Washington State and a popular mountain for climbers. The history of Mount Rainier includes eruptions in the late 1800s, and it was the ancestral homeland for several Native American tribes. The first successful summit of Rainier happened in 1870, and the first female ascent was just 20 years later. There are 40 routes on Mount Rainier, with the Disappointment Cleaver and Emmons routes being the most popular. Climbing Rainier requires physical and mental preparation, as well as adherence to Leave No Trace principles. Takeaways Mount Rainier is the highest peak in Washington State and a popular mountain for climbers.  The history of Mount Rainier includes eruptions in the late 1800s, and it was the ancestral homeland for several Native American tribes.  The first successful summit of Rainier happened in 1870, and the first female ascent was just 20 years later.  There are 40 routes on Mount Rainier, with the Disappointment Cleaver and Emmons routes being the most popular.  Climbing Rainier requires physical and mental preparation, as well as adherence to Leave No Trace principles. Engagement Links Mt. Rainier History Rainier climbing book Fay Fuller Rainier Climbing Ranger Blog  Weather  Guide company links https://www.alpineascents.com https://www.mountainguides.com https://mountainmadness.com https://www.rmiguides.com   LNT principles