Woodshop Life Podcast

This Episode's Questions: Brians Questions: Hey guys, I am building an arts and crafts style entryway table that is roughly modeled after a Stickley magazine stand. It will have an upper “shelf” that is surrounded on three side by the rails or stretchers on the side and back and is open on the front. The bottom “shelf” is identical. These two shelves are seated into the four legs. The front legs have a full depth groove cut into them that the shelf seats into and the rear legs have a cutout on the inside corner for the rear shelf support. I will include a link at the bottom showing the piece that I modeled my table after. The original is smaller and has three shelves, mine will only have two and will have spindles between the rear top and bottom stretchers as well. However, the way the shelves are attached will be the same. My question is this: How can I attach the shelves to the front and rear legs without causing issues with wood movement? The shelves will be somewhere in the 13-14” deep range. Gluing the shelf to the rear legs and letting the shelf slide in the groove in the front legs would work but there is no front rail or stretcher connecting the two front legs so I don’t think that works. Can I glue the shelf to all four legs? Alternatively I suppose I could put a small low profile stretcher under the shelf connecting the two front legs, but I don’t think it exists on the original and I’d prefer not to if I don’t have to. Please feel free to contact me to clarify anything if I didn’t explain well enough. Kellen I think the thing I struggle with the most in building furniture is laying out where each part is going to come from on the rough boards. All the wood I've bought so far was air dryed from Facebook marketplace, so maybe that has made it harder since the boards are never perfectly straight. I always use straight grain sections for the legs and I try to also use straight grain for any aprons, rails and stiles. This leaves alot of waste. If I have a 8" board and I use say 2.5" from each edge of straight grain, what do you do with the leftover center section that is just cathedrals? When do you not use straight grain on these types of parts? Any other advise on laying out parts on the rough boards? Thanks again for answering my questions and the best podcast. Jeff Guys Questions: Hey Guys, I love your show! I usually listen on my commute or while I'm working in the shop. I'm building a hayrake table out of walnut and haven't decided on the finish. I'm looking for something durable, easy to wipe clean (I have kids), and not super glossy.  Any suggestions on what to use and how to apply it? Thank you for all the great tips! Ezra Thank you for your fantastic podcast! I really appreciate how accessible and practical you make woodworking for both beginners and experts alike. I’ve been woodworking for about two years now, mostly building cutting boards, boxes, gifts and simple furniture out of basic hardwoods. I’ve also dabbled in making furniture with plywood, such as a bedside table for my 11-year-old. I’m fortunate to be a member of a shared woodworking shop at a local arts and crafts society, which is well-equipped with power tools including a SawStop cabinet saw. Our shop uses a shared set of well-worn Freud blades which get pretty beat up, but I’ve had the privilege of using nicer table saw blades loaned to me by the shop keeper, who has been incredibly supportive as I develop my skills. This brings me to my question: I am ready to purchase my own table saw blades and have zoomed in on CMT as a brand for their value. I’m considering three blades: an 80-tooth Hi-ATB crosscut, a 24-tooth flat top grind ripping blade, and a 50-tooth combination blade with ATB and one TCG tooth, all in full kerf. My research suggests that the main arguments for thin kerf blades are that they are easier on low power table saws and produce less waste. Since I have access to a SawStop cabinet saw, I don’t need blades suited for low power saws, and I’m not sure the reduced waste is worth the trade-offs. Are there other advantages or reasons I should consider a thin kerf blade? It seems that full kerf blades offer more stability and cleaner cuts, and as I build my skills, my expectations for precision are increasing. What are your thoughts on kerf size and blade choice for someone in my situation? Thanks for your advice, and keep up the great work! Stuart Huys Questions: Hey gents, I'm getting into a kitchen remodel and will be building all the cabinets myself because I'm a glutton for punishment. I'm trying to find a white (tintable base) finish, but am a little overwhelmed by all the options. It for sure needs to be water based, and I have an Airless system as well as a 2-stage HVLP for application. Can you recommend any product for this purpose? I've been experimenting with Target Coatings water based pigmented lacquer (EM6500wp) with their CL100 cross-linker and was just "ok" with the results. I tried spraying it with the HVLP but I'm thinking the finish was too thick to properly atomize with a 2-stage turbine, so maybe I need to shoot it with the Airless? I'm not super keen on any finish with a real limited pot life, since I'll be doing this on the nights and weekends, and feel like that would lead to a significant amount of waste. Thanks in advance for the insight! Travis Hello guys, I have been a long time listener and I really appreciate all of the knowledge that you guys share with the woodworking community. I have seen the Critter Siphon Gun advertised in the Lee Valley catalog and watched a few videos about it on YouTube. Have you had any experience with the Critter Siphon Gun and how does it compare to other options like HVLP sprayers? Thanks, Daniel

This Episodes Questions: Brians Questions: I have a question for you about glueing up table aprons. And I’m mostly referring to large dining tables. The aprons I’m making are generally w 8/4 stock roughly 4” width. I can manage to get the legs and the aprons milled and cut square. All my joinery is w dominoes. Whenever I do the glue up everything is slightly out out square despite everything being square prior to glue up . I have pipe clamps and parallel clamps and have tried both. For some reason I can’t get the clamping pressure or positioning right. Any tips would be appreciated. Timber Tables Hi guys! Love your podcast and listen for over a year during my early walks in the morning.  I’m always picking up a tip or two. Keep up the great work! My question has to do with designing a bowling ball rack shelf system for my granddaughter. She is an outstanding bowler with well over 20 balls so my little ball rack is only going scratch the surface. My plan is for a 12 ball bowling rack with three shelves with four 15# balls on each shelf. Each shelf will be made of 3/4 poplar (to be painted with college colors) and is 46” wide, 10” deep and will have 3” chamfered holes for each ball to sit in. So the shelf has to support 60# in bowling balls! I’ll be fastening the shelves to the upright side with through tenons. Do you guys think 3/4 poplar shelves with through tenons and chamfered holes to be enough to hold 60#? This is the first time I’ve created anything requiring that much weight to support.   Any suggestions welcome. Thanks! Pappy Guys Questions: Hi all. Looking for recommendations for entry level laser engraver to be used for making router templates / engraving logos and simple designs on my woodworking projects such as cutting boards, wall decorations, etc. Are there any alternatives to a laser engraver that would do the same in a similar lower price point? thank you for a great show! Max Hello gents, as always, the podcast is one of the best out there. My question for you is about pivoting. What I mean by that is, what do you do when something happens during a project that causes you to take a different direction? Recently I completed a humidor for a friend. He gave me the rough dimensions that he wanted, and his only specification was that it had some contrast and some nice looking grain. I made myself a plan and began working on making the box sides with alternating maple and cherry. My original intent was a 4 corner grain match. Unfortunately, my miters did not come out well, so I changed to a corner post design using mahogany. Since the client did not know the original plan, this was an easy change to do in my shop. Have you guys had to change your plan mid way through a project? How did you handle it and how well did it work out? As a side note, sometimes I appreciate the original plan going sideways because it forces me to think of viable alternatives. Keep making sawdust and sharing what you love. Joshua from The Blackdog Woodworks. Huys Questions: Hi guys, I have a question for the best woodworking podcast around. I bought some beautiful air dried white oak from someone who had it sitting in a barn for 20 years.  I have two 4/4 boards that are 8 foot long, 10.5" wide and almost dead straight.  I would like to use them for the top of a dresser but there are several lighter shaded bands going across the boards (on both sides).  I believe these stains or marks are from stickering.  I did a light pass through my planer and it doesn't appear that it made a difference.  Are these boards totally ruined? I am not confident that if I keep planing them this will go away, plus they are just north of 4/4 in thickness and I was hoping to keep them as thick as possible.  Jeff Thank you for your informative podcast, enjoy the experience and diversity you bring to woodworking enthusiasts.   I was recently installing drawer faces on a nightstand. The drawer boxes were just slightly inset so soft close slides would pull the drawer tight when face installed. The drawer faces are proud of the nightstand cabinet. I wanted to have very tight/consistent reveals between the two drawers and wanted the sides to line up perfectly flush with sides. This requires very precise holding of drawer fronts while securing from the back side of drawer box.  I was able to get the drawer fronts flush with sides and use a 1/32 shim between drawer faces for the gap, great so far. The drawer face handle is a flat rectangular(lip style) wood pull at the top of the drawer face so there are no holes in the drawer face like there would be be with a more conventional pull. I attempted to use thin double sided tape to hold face securely in position until it could be attached but it was not secure enough to ensure the precise geometry for the drawer face until it could be attached. I felt thicker double sided tape was too flexible for desired outcome. I end up using pins strategically placed under the pull which works but the pins were barely visible. I find wood filler draws attention to pins so left them unfilled reasoning that no one would notice. My wife of course noticed right off the bat. Here is the question: What other methods of holding drawer face in place before securing to drawer box which doesn't leave evidence:) Thanks, Dave at xcuse4tools custom woodwork

This Episodes Questions: Brians Questions: Hey guys thanks for the best podcast You knowledge and wisdom Thanks for answering my last question about what project would help build my skills My question now is I’m looking for a set of chisels and I don’t know what brand to get i’d save up to buy the brand that to get recommended cause I want a set that lasts Thanks for your help and guidance wise ones Ashtin I hope you can help me: I made a 58 inch round table top out of 3/4 inch, good quality plywood. It's meant to sit on top of smaller round table (48 inches) to add additional seating for occasional use when extra guests are coming to dinner. I've done it before with good results. To make it manageable, and because it's quite heavy, I cut it in half.  I use a rug pad between the smaller table and the 'topper' table to keep the 2 halves from slipping.  I fitted it and made sure it worked in the space and was stable before doing the finishing.  All good so far. My problem is: I finished one side with stain, lacquer and wax and it looks great.  Then I turned both halves over and repeated the same process on the other side.  When both sides were all finished, I noted that one of the halves had developed a slight bow, thus making the fitting together of the 2 halves a little wonky.  But, when I turned only the bowed half over, the 2 halves fit together perfectly.  YAY!   BUT - here's my problem.  With both sides lining up perfectly, and laying flat on the rug pad on top of the smaller table, the stain color is slightly different on the 2 halves. Thinking about how this happened I realized I had to open a new can of stain part way through staining the 2nd side. I must have mixed one of the cans poorly. Or maybe different batches can be slightly different? What are my options? I don't think any of these will work. Do I:1. Try to clamp the bowed half of the table topper (plywood) for awhile hoping to eliminate the bow? 2. Try to refinish the halves that fit so they match? 3. Come up with a latch of some sort to eliminate the bow when using the table topper? Since the lacquer is on and wax is rubbed in on both sides, I don't even think I could paint, or add a veneer. Am I stuck with a harlequin table topper? Trish O'Neill Guy's Questions: In contrast to some podcasters who seem to think we are interested in listening to them talk for the sake of talking,   you guys have the best podcast as far as communicating tips and techniques for woodworking so thank you for all your hard work. I have been been working and building things wood for many years but within the last year have dove into making more fine woodworking type of projects, with nice woods like Walnut and Cherry for example. I have been using shellac as well as 1:1:1 mixtures of BLO:Polyurethane:Turpentine and Beeswax:BLO:Turpentine for finishing so far.  Wipe on, wipe off technique...  What finishes are considered best to really highlight the chatoyance/beauty nice figured woods?  It seems like the finishes I have used so far are not doing it justice that or maybe I am just too critical. Quinn Hey guys! Thank you so much for your hard work on the podcast. I love listening to how much fun you guys have and getting answers to questions on various woodworking topics. Great content! We are running a woodworking company, mainly doing cabinets, out of our 500 square foot garage. We have a Hammer 12" planer but would like a sander to assist with uniform door sizes. When it comes to sanders, what would you recommend? Would it be worth getting an open-ended wide belt sander (Grizzly 15" or something) for the extra horsepower and belt size, or would a drum sander be sufficient? Within the realm of drum sanders, would an open model (such as Supermax 2550) running on 110v be sufficient, or would you recommend a closed model with greater horsepower? More capacity, less power, or vice versa? Just want to hear your thoughts on width capacity, motor power, belt size, machine footprint, and which you think is most important. Sorry for the long question, and thanks in advance for your help on this! Gavin Huy's Questions: Hi, I have a question about applying finishes in cold conditions. My specific situation is that I have a bunch of drawer boxes for a desk I’m building, and I’ll be finishing them with a few coats of Zinsser Bullseye brand spray shellac. The only instructions on the can pertaining to the spray conditions say to apply it with "the can at room temperature”. Based on my experience it does tend to smell up the house a little (or so my wife says), so what I’d like do is to spray them outside. The workpieces and the spray can would be brought outside to the 40 degree weather, then I’d quickly do the spraying, and then bring everything inside to dry. Although there will be some smell from the outgassing of the solvent, at least there won't be any smell from any overspray. What do you think about this plan? And is there any limit to how I can safely have them outside after spraying, before things would be adversely affected by the cold? Thanks. Steve Feldman Gentlemen, First I would like to thank you guys and Guy for the podcast and and for sharing all your knowledge. About 6 months ago we had a large multi truck red oak tree fell down in the front yard. Being so frugal, I cut it up myself for later use. I painted the ends to help preserve the wood. Now I’m looking to bring it to a sawyer. My wife/I are not a fan of the cathedral 80’s look nor the live edge. We both agree that quarter sawn would look nice. We have a large space for a table and my kids are starting to have kids so a very long table would be nice to have.If I don’t have enough wood post kiln drying, how can I extend the table length to 12’. *Breadboard ends?*Hardware to insert multiple leafs (any recommendations)?*butcher block some boards glued end grain to endgrain staggered? The available logs I have vary from the biggest in diameter 15”-24” and length 8’-12’. The thickest being the shortest unfortunately. While the longer ones are curved. I have limited woodworking outside of lots of endgrain cutting boards, the usual kitchen wares and a few boxes. This is one project I can afford to mess up.I don’t currently own a domino, but would be willing to buy one if needed. I have a 20”hh jet planer , 8”hh Laguna joiner, 8’ JLT panel clamp the big industrial type. Jason

This Episode's Quesions: Brians Questions: I plan to build a handtool workbench in the future, maybe in a year or so, but as of right now, I do not have any workholding devices.  I have a large assembly table that does have an overhang and the top is 1.25" thick.  I have been using clamps to the top as a stop for planing and it does not work very well.  I also need a way to hold the wood for using chisels, and I haven't bought any dovetailing tools yet because of the lack of workholding devices.  Are there any good vises that don't require cutting a hole in my assembly table or makeshift ways to hold the wood until I can build a proper bench? Thanks Jeff When sanding end grain, say when you’ve got a panel where you’ve chamfered or rounded over the edge, which direction should you sand? I’d imagine you continue to follow the grain direction from the adjacent face grain but I’m not sure. Can you sand across the grain? Thanks for the great podcast, you guys really do have the best wood working show out there! Eric Guys Quesions: Hey Guys I am looking to set up a shop in my  unheated garage. I live in Canada so the weather is inconsistent. Very cold in the winter and very hot and humid in the summer. I am thinking of setting up a small workbench in my basement to cut joinery and do glue ups/assembly. I would keep all of my big power tools( table saw, planer etc.) in the garage. This setup would allow me to work comfortably through the year. My question is with wood movement. If I stored wood in my air conditioned basement and just took it out to the garage for a few hours at a time to plane and cut to size and then brought it back inside to cut joinery with hand tools, would the few hours spent in the humid or cold garage be enough time to warp the boards after I brought them back in? Heating the garage isn’t  a realistic option right now as I have two young children and would probably only be able to get a few hours in the shop a week. (Not worth the cost) Thanks for all of the help. This podcast has been a huge influence in helping me to get started with woodworking. Derek I have a small benchtop jointer that a friend gave me for free and a Dewalt 735 planer. For anything but pretty small parts, I use a sled to joint lumber in my planer. I'd like to upgrade both of these eventually. I have a big shop with plenty of power, so neither of those are an issue. My budget is generally the limiting factor. I do plan to keep using standalone machines for the convenience of maintaining settings and flexibility of workflow.  I'd like to get a big jointer first and keep using the 735 while I save up for a big, heavy 220v planer. My question is about 12 inch combo machines. I keep seeing decent 12" combo machines come up used for way less than I can find a standalone 12" jointer. I've seen a few of the Jet machines for $2k-$2500 and a friend recently got a Hammer A3 31 for $3500. Even new, combo machines seem to run way cheaper than a 12" jointer. Why? I understand the beds are shorter, but other than that, what is the disadvantage. Is it ridiculous to buy one if I have no long term need of the planer function and don't plan to use it? Parker Huys Quesions: Hey guys, Thank you for your many thoughtful responses to the questions you receive from your listeners. I  tend to get bored after I've made the same type of project several times (ie pencil boxes, pens, etc..). If I am not in a time crunch,  I like figuring out how to do something to make a project a little more challenging and interesting. I like looking at projects to give me some inspiration on how I might make a new project.  Early on in my woodworking journey I gained a lot of positive inspiration from watchin 'New Yankee Workshop'. The way Norm broke down processes in his projects was very helpful to me. However, there are some projects I've seen which are incredibly intimidating.(ie  highboys, Maloof rockers, etc...).  While I admire these types of projects,  I don't think I would tackle them without taking a specific class.  Where do you guys find inspiration for you projects? Are there any type of projects that intimidate you? Thank you for your responses. Have a great day. Chuck I am designing a dresser which will be 48” high and 72” wide and a chest of drawers which will be 60” high and 40” wide. I would like to join the carcass sides and top with dovetails. With the sides being 48” and 60” and the width being 72” and 60”, how should I clamp the sides and top/bottom to my bench and stand in order to cut the dovetails by hand? I’m only 5’8” and have never cut dovetails up by my head. With a dresser and chest of drawers being the above sizes, would you recommend another method for my joinery? Love the podcast, keep up the great work!! Mike

This Episodes Questions: Guy's Questions: With mothers day around the corner, I plan on knocking out a couple of small jewelry boxes. Mitered corners and book matched grain for a seamless look. 2 questions leading into this project. The first is more likely for Guy. In the past my boxes have been cut to 45.1 degrees to ensure a closed outside corner. My table saw is a jobsite saw and setting a precise angle is extremely difficult. I recently set up a router table and have seen guy use a 45 degree chamfer bit to cut miters this way. How close to 45 degree do these bits actually get? Is there a brand you recommend for better accuracy? How bad is the tear out? 2nd question. In the past I used a wiping poly to finish the boxes. However VOC's are a concern for these boxes. I'd like to finish the boxes with a base coat of shellac and finish with beeswax top coat. I purchased a block of beeswax but didn't really think about how to dissolve it for quick finish. Seems like mineral spirits are the leading candidate but I'm curious if anyone has used natural oil citrus solvent for the same task (I'd likely by the version from milk paint company). Jose Gentlemen, thank you for all you do to support and educate the woodworking community through this podcast and other platforms.  I'm planning out a full kitchen remodel for our home and will be building the cabinets myself.  The style of cabinets will be frameless/euro style which means all the plywood will need to be edge banded.  The plywood will be pre-finished, but the doors and drawer fronts will be painted.  How would you recommend finishing the edge banding to match the door and drawer front color?  Would you do hardwood edge banding and paint it?  That seems like it would take a lot of taping which leaves room for lots of error.  Is there such a thing as custom colored edge banding for cabinets that is either iron-on or peel-and-stick?  I don't have an edge banding machine so that probably limits my options.  Thanks in advance for your help! Joel Hi guys, Thanks for providing some great knowledge for fellow woodworkers. My question is around drum sanders and the usefulness of them in a hobby shop. When do you use a drum sander and what type of projects are you using a drum sander on? I just purchased a 20” bandsaw and would like to start resawing veneers for projects. In the past I would buy 1/16” thick veneers from a commercial veneer shop which worked well. But I question if a drum sander is actually required/desired  for this operation. I’ve read a bunch about troubles with drum sander’s and really question if it speeds up the work. Could I just joint a fresh face, resaw. Then joint another fresh face and so on. Then glue up the panel. And either clean up the panel on the planner or ROS? In my  future I probably have a set of kitchen cabinets and various built in cabinets(which I would either buy plywood or use commercial veneer and glue my own). I normally make freestanding furniture as well. This isn’t a production shop, and I have all the normal tools for dimensioning lumber, TS, Jointer, and planer. Feel free to summarize my question, just wanted to give you guys enough context. Thanks,Jesse Beechland Furniture Huys Questions: Hi Guys Have known of & liked Guy’s YT channel for a number of years and recently came across this podcast which I’m really enjoying as I go through the back catalogue. I must be on similar wavelength to you Guy as I love (& own a lot / most of) the Incra stuff, saw your MFT style outfeed which I’m about to build a copycat of (just awaiting delivery of the aluminium extrusion) and am in the midst of milling the timber to start building your mini workbench, the plans for which I recently bought. I then happened on your YT channel the other day Huy and whilst watching the 6yo shop tour video was interested to see your boom arm. Could you tell me a bit more about it. Is it bought as is, or built up from tubing etc? Keep up the good work. Thanks Andy I love your podcast, particularly that you spend the time talking about woodworking without a lot of jibber-jabber about unrelated stuff.  I'm sorry to hear about Brian's accident, and appreciate very much that he was willing to share about it so we could all learn.  Could you possibly send me the 10 safety rules from the Purposeful Design shop?  Also, here's my question:  are there any general rules for how much clamping pressure is advisable when doing a glue-up?  Is it just enough to close the joint?  Or does glue work better when extra clamping pressure is applied?  I realize this is a broad question and the answer may differ depending on the situation, but any guidance you can provide would be much appreciated.  Thanks for all you do!  Jimmy B, Los Angeles CA. Hello Guys, I recently found your podcast and I love it. Great content and great chemistry between you all. I will be sad when I catch up on all the past episodes because then I will have or wait to listen to new episodes. I am new to woodworking and I currently use a Dewalt 8 1/4 inch job site table saw. For my 50th birthday I am looking to upgrade to a larger table saw. I am economically challenged so my budget is around $1000. I am looking at 2 different saws the first one is the Delta 36-725T2 for $699 and the other one is the Laguna Fusion F1 for $1080. Is the Laguna worth $300 more? Do you have any other suggestions? I would prefer to buy new. Thanks you all are awesome have a great day. Korey

This Episodes Questions: Brian's Questions: I'm so curious about the Laguna bandsaws that Guy used at work. Long time listeners of this podcast could easily believe that Laguna bandsaw tables are at knee height and unusable. But I have a Laguna 14/12 and the table is at 35", which seems really normal, and I'm pretty tall. All the other Laguna saws I've used or been around seem about in the same range. Is this not normal? Is Guy freakishly tall? Or an advocate of chest height bandsaw tables? Parker I haven't felt like my woodworking really justifies a jointer yet.  I don't generally mind using a planer sled to get flat faces and a jointer sled on the table saw to edge joint boards, but I've never tried to use those workarounds on long stock (over 4'.)  With that being said, this dinner table project that is looming ahead of me seems like it might be the moment to finally take the plunge and buy a jointer. Do you think its possible to get the table top glue-ready without a jointer? I trust my planer sled to get flat faces, but I'm wondering if you think edge jointing such long boards is possible with an extra long table saw jointer sled jig.  Any tips on milling and glue up for this table top would be very appreciated.  Part 2: Or maybe you guys can give me the nudge to consider this dinner table project as the moment to finally buy a jointer.  I suspect that a bench top jointer wouldn't give me much (other than efficiency) over the work arounds that I already use for milling.  Do you have any recommendations for a first jointer? I don't have major space limitations but I do like to save money, so I'm curious if you guys would send a case like mine to scour craigslist or facebook marketplace for an old delta 6". Thanks as always for your contributions to the woodworking community!  It can't be said too often: you guys really do make the best woodworking podcast there is!! Evan Guys Questions: Hey guys, I’m new to woodworking, really enjoying listening to the podcast!! I have a question, would you guys be able to go over what you use your 3/4, 4/4 etc lumber!? I often think that you need thick lumber for projects. I don’t have a project in mind but I bought some rough saw lumber that I plan on using for trim in the house but I bought enough to have plenty left over. Ivan I want to build a cherry coffee table for my house. We've got a couple of cherry pieces that I've made. I really love watching them darken and get more beautiful with age. The other pieces I've made don't really see much direct blasting sunlight so the process is subtle. The coffee table however, would get some direct morning sunlight every day (or at least for the three months of the year that we get direct sunlight in the pacific northwest). I'm worried about uneven color change and sun shadows on the top where there would be decorative objects or books or things left in one spot for a period. If I pre-darken it by leaving it in the sun for some hours or a day or two will that slow the process enough to alleviate this? If so, should I do it before or after finishing? Is there anything else I can do to help, besides not putting stuff on top of course? Parker Huys Questions: Hi Fellas, I recently purchased a horizontal crown bit ( ref: Yonico 16172 ) to apply a soft dimple to the drawer faces on my tool cabinet. I will be recessing the drawer pulls within them. The challenge that I'm facing is that the drawer faces are a little small, 5 1/2" x 3 1/4", and without being overly creative on work holding, I'm not seeing a safe way to plunge the face onto the bit in my router table, or plunge the bit into the face with a hand held router. My plan is to chuck the bit into my drill press and use that to apply the cut.  What experience, tips, or words of advice might you have in using a drill press with router bits? I have a Grizzly G7943 which only spins up to 3050 rpm. Thanks in advance, and for all that you guys do for our craft of woodworking! Justin I have a 16' PVC board (8" tall * 3/4" * 16') that needs an edge profile added . The edge profile needed is to mimic a skirt board (this board installs at the bottom of an exterior siding). I purchased the 6" wide boards with the profile cut by the mfg, but they did not have an 8" so I'll need to cut this myself. The profile is a 1/4" tongue that is 1" in length with a 45 degree cut underneath. This allows the skirt board to slip underneath the bottom row of siding (the 1/4" section) and still have the rain/water drip off (the 45 degree portion). How would you cut this profile? I am thinking on a router table, but appreciate your input. Thank you, Mark Moeller

This Episode's Questions: Brian's Questions: Gentlemen, First, I hope you all know that the sounds that pop through occasionally from your families in the background don't make a bad podcast; they make you human and THAT is part of what makes your podcast great. On the subject of families, I have 3 young sons (6, 4, 2 years old) that love "helping" with woodworking projects and learning about tools.  The family has outgrown our current dinner table, and I've been tasked with building a new one.  I'm planning a 6.5'x3.5' dinner table that doesn't need to be an showpiece heirloom dining table, but I'd love to produce something that will look nice and can handle the inevitable mayhem of a young family.   Can you recommend a wood species and some finish options that will stand up to these demands? I can feel white oak calling me here, should I answer the call?  (For context, our kitchen cabinets and floors are all darker wood tones so more dark might just blend into the background too much.) Thank you as always for your contribution to the woodworking community.  Your knowledge, experience, and unique characters make this truly the best woodworking podcast. Evan Hey guys! Love the podcast and appreciate all the work you put into it. My wife and I have been planning a remodel of our kitchen for a few years. I really want to build the cabinets, but also recognize that my time is pretty limited with work, and my wife doesn't want a partially completed kitchen for months. I'm currently designing the kitchen in Sketchup to a pretty high level of detail because we have some restrictions with the space that I need to ensure I take into account. The goal is to work through as much as I can in Sketchup to reduce guesswork, decisions, and time once I start  building. We have currently decided that I will build the cabinet boxes and face-frames since it will be easer to custom design and build for the space, and I'm researching options for outsourcing the drawer boxes and drawer/door fronts. We are planning on using rift sawn white oak with inset door and drawer fronts. The drawer boxes seem like a pretty easy option to outsource, but the fronts seem like they could pose some challenges that I may not be considering. Should I be worried about significant color or grain differences between the outsourced supplier, and what I can get locally to build the face-frames? Since they will be inset, do you have a recommendation on sizing when I order? For example, I'm planning on a 3/32" reveal between the face-frame and doors/drawers, should I order with 1/16" or the full 3/32" oversized so I can trim to the exact opening once the cabinets are installed in case something shifts? Thanks for the help! Jason Guy's Questions: Hi guys. Love the podcast! Wish I could find a fishing podcast as good. Life would be perfect. I made the move to a Fuji Sprayer.  I bought one with the gravity feed gun but now think I made a mistake. I think it would be easier to hold finish in the cup between coats. What is your preference and why? Thanks so much. Joe Hi Guys, I recently asked a question concerning how to glue up a frame and panel so it’s flat. I took your advice and it worked great. Thanks so much!!! I have two unrelated questions: I recently purchased expensive hinges from Horton-brasses. When I received the hinges I made a jig out of MDF so I could simply rout out the mortises for the hinges to sit in. As usual, I make the jig so they are a perfect fit for the hing. I tested the jig on a piece of scrap and the hinge fit perfectly. I then used the jig on a cabinet I made and the hinge did not fit. I tried the various hinges I purchased and only one of the hinges fit (the hinge I used to make and test the jig). After measuring the hinges, I discovered that they were all different sizes varying by about .01”. I contacted Horton-brasses and explained the problem and they told me that their acceptable tolerance is +/- .05”. With some simple math this means that their tolerance is about 1/16”. I have purchased hinges from other manufacturers and never had this problem before. My question is: am I being too picky to expect the hinges to be the same size or a lot closer than +/- .01? When you make jigs for hinges, do you leave a little extra room for hinges that are off a little? Finally, where do you recommend purchasing hinges and other hardware from? Mike Gitberg Huy's Questions: Hi fellas, I would love to hear some advice regarding sanders. I have a small hobby business of selling large wood slabs that I mill with a chainsaw mill. I know this isn't traditional woodworking but it is enjoyable and brings me enough money to buy new tools and gain experience with real woodworking. After each slab is dried I plane it down with a TrueTrac router sled system. It works great and only leaves minor ridges to sand out except on knots, crotch grain, curl and all the other "defects" that folks like in slabs where I get some tear out. I usually run 40 grit over each slab with my Dewalt random orbit but this can take a long time to get the tear out sanded. I have an old Makita belt sander but no matter what I do that seems to dig in at the tear of the belt and leave grooves in the wood. If I were to buy a dedicated sander for just 40/60 grit first pass of slabs what do you recommend? A better belt sander? Or a wider diameter orbit and high quality sand paper? Thanks for the great podcast, keep it up! Jeremy Westra I've been woodworking for a few years but I'm still fairly new. Recently I've been building chairs that are either heavily influenced or loose copies of some famous Hans Wegner designs. So far I've built these chairs for friends and family but I'm getting more and more unsolicited requests. While I don't think making chairs for family and friends is an issue, I suspect posting and selling chairs online that are obvious copies of classic designs (like Wegner's ch25) could be patent or trademark infringement. What do you think? Also, its worth mentioning, many large retailers like Target, Walmart, Wayfair, etc. are selling obvious knock-offs based on famous designs while not mentioning the original. Apparently this is ok since I'm sure their legal departments reviewed the issue. I'd love to hear your thoughts. Earl

This Episodes Questions: Brian's Questions: Hey guys I have a kinda lengthy question, so new to woodworking and I’ve been listening to your guys podcast and really like it!! Very helpful! Question #1 is it better to have a good table saw blade over a good saw #2 is it better to have a good table saw over a good incra fence!? Back story I have a delta table saw, I got for free from a friend, I was wondering if it’s worth spending the money or save and eventually get a better saw like a powermatic table saw etc. maybe I get caught up in the details of tools and expect them to do the work for me, but I am someone that like to have the right tools for the job. Granted as new as I am it’s hard to justify $10,000 to have all the right tools, just wondering if I should focus more on making something then, on the tools! Hope it all makes sense and it’s not more of a rant!! Thank you for all the work you guys do!! Ivan I'm making a mantle for my living room out of rift-sawn white oak plywood. 74" long, with a miter fold design. My wife wants it to look the same way it does before applying finish, and I'm not sure how to do that or if it is even possible. I've tested with water-based poly (Minwax), but it causes it to look a bit "golden". Suggestions? Brian Guy's Questions: Hi fellas, Love the podcast and all your great advice. I recently glued up a free-standing (liquor) cabinet and was very nervous about it being square, especially since it was difficult to check for square (measuring corner to corner in the front and back) with all the various clamps on.  I ended up making the back panel (which fits into rabbets), which I knew was square, and placed it in the back (without glue) while the glue dried on the various joints (through tenons on top and bottom shelves, mid-shelves sit in stopped dados).  The idea was that if the square back panel fit correctly, it would help pull the whole cabinet into square.  It turned out perfectly this time (wahoo!), but am not sure if I got lucky or if this is a reliable method to come back to.  What do y'all think?  Does this method make sense?  Any other suggestions on how to check or ensure square with free-standing cabinets of a decent size (46" tall, 26" wide, 16" deep)? Thanks, Bryan Hi gents:  long time listener here and as I’ve said before, thanks so much for the great content you deliver.  You have discussed your spraying equipment set up in the past but I was hoping you could describe your spray BOOTH set up- obviously Brian is exempt from this question since he doesn’t apply finish.  How do you guys spray volatile finishes in the winter on your garage?  Do you have a spray booth like set up?  Do you openly spray in your garage workshops?  How do you vent potentially dangerous fumes?  Any details you can provide would be appreciated as I would like to do more spraying of shellac and I like wipe on poly both of which are challenges in winter time when you can’t work outside. Liam from Indianapolis Huy's Questions: I’ve recently found the podcast and am loving going back and learning from each episode! I’ve noticed that a ton of time has been dedicated to doling out wisdom on different types of finishing techniques and products. I’m sure the best way to learn all of this is through experience, but do you have and resources to recommend budding woodworkers as a go-to guide? With the way my brain works, learning the origins of each finish, their make-ups, and how that brings about their use cases and strengths/weaknesses would go a long way for me to internalize all of the various do’s and dont’s. Do you have a resource you go to when considering applicable finishing materials on a new project? Jeremiah Love the show, I appreciate you guys giving it the time it takes to make it happen.  My question is about a solid Walnut table that I built for my eat in kitchen. The material was 30yr + air dried Walnut milled down to a thickness of about 15/16" for the table top each board is six to eight inches in width and makes up a 32" wide table top by 5' and change in length.  I used Domino's for alignment titebond two for the glue.  The table base is inspired by conoid table style from Nakashima and is connected to the table top using "buttons and screws" connected to the two rails at top each  of the splayed legs.  I did not add any type of support down the center nor any type of skirting or an apron so there's about four foot in between the table legs of unsupported table top. - I've been using table for a few months now, and every once in a while I'll place my Veritas straight edge on it and check. It hasn't seemed to move at all in any direction but yet I still think about this multiple times a week what are your thoughts? Will this eventually sag in the middle with out a continuous support running the center if the table? Joe R.

This Episodes Questions: Brians Questions: Hi guys! Love the podcast, as always. My question for you guys this time is about design. Specifically, it's about design based on that "special" piece of lumber. For example, I purchased a large piece of mahogany in the late 1990's to build electric guitars. I made two guitars from it and was left with a chunk of beautiful lumber that traveled with me for the next 25 years. Two years ago, I bought a mid-sized slab of black locust. I don't make "slab" furniture or use copious amounts of epoxy, so it'll end up getting cut up into a project. I know you guys normally design your projects and then buy the lumber, but have you ever bought (or acquired) that unique board and then had to design a project to do it justice? If so, what was the project? As a follow up question, what is the longest that you have ever owned a piece of lumber that you just couldn't get rid of? Thanks,  Joshua from The Black Dog Woodworks. I'm a new listener and your podcast has been a blast to listen to on my evening runs. I just finished a 3-year, gut-to-the-studs home renovation, and my 1 car garage was the renovation workshop. Now that the home is finished I am transitioning the shop into a proper woodworking space. During construction, I used a lot of 16D nails and 3" construction screws and tried to have a variety of fasteners on hand so I wouldn't be running to the hardware store 3 times a day. This got me thinking. What are some common fasteners you like to keep in your shop? Any common screw sizes? Bolts? Washers? Nuts? Nails? Staples? It seems in woodworking shops that there's always a balance between having so many supplies that you'll never use most of them in 10 years to having so few supplies that you'll be running to the store 5 times a day. What is your approach to hardware consumables? Thanks for the great podcast.  Adam Guys Questions: Really appreciate the podcast, i have been listening for about 18 months and am also working through your previous podcasts.   I am starting the dive into spray finishing. I have previously used wipe on or brush on finishes. I like shellac, but often coat with wipe on poly for extra protection. I would picture doing the same going forward.  Question: What are considerations/benefits to using a water based conversion varnish over wb poly?  What type of ppe is appropriate?  I have a relatively large shop which is climate controlled, not attached to house and can set up an area for finishing when needed, what type ventilation would be desirable for occasional finishing in this situation?  I build furniture and smaller items.  Thanks, David at xcuse4tools custom woodwork      Hello everyone. Love the show. Great dynamic between you all and I really enjoy the lack of ego in the question answering. Your answers are efficient, helpful and easily digestible to a beginner woodworker. I recently acquired a Jessem Pocket Mill Pro for loose tenon joints. Like many, I had lusted after a Festool Domino but couldn’t justify the price tag for a hobby shop. The Pocket Mill Pro is a fraction of the cost and does everything I need it to do for my projects. The workstation that pairs with the pocket mill pro can also accept Jessem’s dowel jig. My question to you all is would a dowel jig even be necessary when I have the ability to make loose tenon joints already? Is there any advantage to adding the dowl jig to my arsenal or is it a waste of money when I already have the Pocket Mill Pro? Thanks in advance for any insight.  Jason Huys Questions: I'm planning on making a face grain chess board.  I'll use 3/4" MDF as my core and glue the chess squares on top (grain from all squares facing same direction).  Chess squares will be about 1/8" thick.  I assume I'll also need to glue some 1/8" wood on the bottom to balance out the stresses.  I'll orient the bottom grain in the same direction as the top.  My question is, do I need to glue both sides at the same time, or can I glue one side, let it dry, then do the other?  Scott Goldthwait I love to use my handplanes and can't get over the smooth, glass-like feeling that it leaves on wood. However, many finishing manufacturers reccomend applying the finish to a surface sanded to a specific grit (e.g., Rubio reccomends applying to 120 grit, no higher). What are the advantages/disadvantages to applying finish to a sanded surface versus a hand-planed surface. I would like my handplane to be the last think that touches the wood, but I want to respect the manufactueres' reccomendations since they obvioulsy know information I don't (like what the ideal porosity of wood is). Thanks! Peter Diaz

This Episodes Questions: Brians Questions I have a question for you about glueing up table aprons. And I’m mostly referring to large dining tables. The aprons I’m making are generally w 8/4 stock roughly 4” width. I can manage to get the legs and the aprons milled and cut square. All my joinery is w dominoes. Whenever I do the glue up everything is slightly out out square despite everything being square prior to glue up . I have pipe clamps and parallel clamps and have tried both. For some reason I can’t get the clamping pressure or positioning right. Any tips would be appreciated. Bryan Hello everyone, Wanted your advice on dados and what I may be doing wrong. When I cut the dado and mating piece I make sure to get a good tight fit during the dry fit. My issue comes up when I'm sanding. I'll take all the pieces apart and sand them to the desired sand grit (180 or 220 depending on finish). But when I go to glue up my mating piece is now loose in the dado. Should I be making the dado smaller, should I just wait to sand till it's all glued up or do you have any other advice? Thanks, Paul at Twin Lakes Workshop Guys Questions I have listened to all your podcasts and have very much enjoyed and learned from them. I listen to primarily three woodworking podcasts and Woodshop Life is far and away the best. I have to confess I am a wood hoarder. I do a lot of small projects (scroll saw, boxes, and the like) and end up with small pieces left over that should be good for something. But how do I organize them and what size is too small, in your opinion, to be useful? The same applies to pieces left over after building furniture or other large projects? Do I just throw everything in the burn pile or is there a logical way to sort and store small pieces of lumber? And one small criticism: need to update the website with Brian’s information since he is officially part of the podcast. Roger Martin Hey there fellas! I’m with a small furniture and cabinet shop called Silt Studio in Atlanta. Love the podcast and the great wealth of knowledge you guys bring to the world of woodworking. Guy, don’t let anybody tell you you’re wrong, they’re never right. I have a question about the relevance of our table saw. It’s a Powermatic PM2000 (I know guy loves his)with a 5x5 outfeed and a 36” rail extension. It’s really been a great workhorse for our shop. The space is about 3000 sq ft and we are quickly outgrowing the footprint for the amount of kitchen and cabinet jobs we’re taking on. There are also columns on a 9’x 14’ grid pattern so the space isn’t wide open.  We’re talking about getting a large slider to facilitate speedier and more accurate square cuts. Currently we’re ripping down sheetgoods with our festool track saw then finishing on the table saw. If we get a slider, a large chunk of our milling/cutting space would be taken up. Is it worth keeping the powermatic and just losing the outfeed to save space  or can we do everything we need to on the slider? We’re considering the laguna 12/8 model slider. Looking forward to your thoughts! Thanks so much, Sam Huy's Questions: Hello gentlemen. Great woodworking podcast. I am in the market for a drum sander. Currently I have a Jet 22-44. It is a love/hate relationship with all the known issues. The budget would be around 2,000-3,000. I was thinking arbor open ended powermatic 22-44 o it would be better to get Grizzly 24 or 24, or something similar that is closed ended. Also would you recommend single or double. What about finding bigger 37” or a similar from shops liquidations. I know there is wiring and things like that. I have a hobby workshop with some 220 equipment. Like I mentioned it is a hobby now maybe it will grow may it will not. I originally got the openeded sander hoping that I can send wider boards (stupidly table tops) but obviously it is not as easy as it would seems to be. I do not know if that helped on made my question more murky. Sometimes there a good deals on Facebook Marketplace place but those deals do not last long and you need to be ready. There was Grizzly G1066R for $1,300 and now I regret not buying it. Any suggestions would be welcome. Thank you. Derek Question for the podcast: When using white oak for trim, what fasteners can I use that won’t cause the tannins in the white oak to react to the metal of the fasteners? Thanks guys. Jay